E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

[briangv99]

yep, definitely will post a couple more pictures

[briangv99]

Close up. Block of wood just there to hold the pack up for the photo

LMX64 large 14s9p triangle pack (1).jpg (233.98 KiB) Viewed 564 times

Profile in the bike

LMX64 large 14s9p triangle pack (2).jpg (87.84 KiB) Viewed 564 times

[scrambler]

You could may be reverse the shock to clear the space better.

[briangv99]

You could may be reverse the shock to clear the space better.

That's a no go unfortunately. Tried it once before and the reservoir doesn't clear the swingarm.

[Joe]

It‘s too cold to ride, so I have the bike in the basement.

I want to up-grade, Suspension front and rear and new 15 pulley (cheers CD they have arrived)

I now want to add a front and rear lamp, with brake light and number plate lamp. I’ve found an “all in one”

How do you do this. I‘ve search the nucular schematic and see that the PWM port 1 is configurable, but how.
Has anyone done this? Has anyone a wiring schematic? I just don‘t understand the connections.

Can the controller be set to turn the lamps on? Where do I connect?
Any help is greatly appreciated.

[scrambler]

You could may be reverse the shock to clear the space better.

That's a no go unfortunately. Tried it once before and the reservoir doesn't clear the swingarm.

Good to know

About sliding the battery, am I to understand that at that width, you can tilt it from the side and it goes in?
If so that would mean we could probably get an even bigger battery in there filling more of the dead space below the top tube...

[Cowardlyduck]

@ Joe, glad they arrived. let us know how you like them.

@ Brian, awesome that you were able to reuse that battery like that. I'll have to get a hurry up on building my larger pack soon so I can keep up with you

Cheers

[briangv99]

About sliding the battery, am I to understand that at that width, you can tilt it from the side and it goes in?
If so that would mean we could probably get an even bigger battery in there filling more of the dead space below the top tube...

Yes, the battery is probably about 70mm wide and the internal frame width is 90mm, so tilting helps and is needed to slide the battery into position. Some of that dead space is needed to get the battery into position, but if you were so inclined you could slide an auxiliary pack in on top.

A non piggy back shock would free up a bit more space too.

[briangv99]

.

Brian, awesome that you were able to reuse that battery like that. I'll have to get a hurry up on building my larger pack soon so I can keep up with you

Thanks CD,. I'm sure that'll you come up with a pack takes capacity to the a new extreme, just like you did with the Fighter

[scrambler]

About sliding the battery, am I to understand that at that width, you can tilt it from the side and it goes in?
If so that would mean we could probably get an even bigger battery in there filling more of the dead space below the top tube...

Yes, the battery is probably about 70mm wide and the internal frame width is 90mm, so tilting helps and is needed to slide the battery into position. Some of that dead space is needed to get the battery into position, but if you were so inclined you could slide an auxiliary pack in on top.

That was my last analysis
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=100198&p=1590414#p1590414

[Merlin]

About sliding the battery, am I to understand that at that width, you can tilt it from the side and it goes in?
If so that would mean we could probably get an even bigger battery in there filling more of the dead space below the top tube...

Yes, the battery is probably about 70mm wide and the internal frame width is 90mm, so tilting helps and is needed to slide the battery into position. Some of that dead space is needed to get the battery into position, but if you were so inclined you could slide an auxiliary pack in on top.

A non piggy back shock would free up a bit more space too.

if it has 90mm, why not going 21700 cells?
i have a 64 on its way and will do probably also an battery upgrade.
i have a god of metalwork at my side and if this is 90mm width iam freaking out because dreams come true

[scrambler]

if it has 90mm, why not going 21700 cells?
i have a 64 on its way and will do probably also an battery upgrade.
i have a god of metalwork at my side and if this is 90mm width iam freaking out because dreams come true

Last I checked, there was no significant energy density benefit with the current 21700 and the 18650.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=100198&p=1590414#p1590497

[Merlin]

35E are the weakest you can buy. the voltage drop is so high on 8A that you hit LVC at 50% of your battery capacity.

if you compare the size, calculate the space you can fill with 18650 and then with 21700.

the energy density may be not the killer deal. but the space given for the battery will do the trick.

best example is the LMX 161H battery.
there are 18650 inside. but the battery space is 15cm wide.

18650 are to small for the case dimensions AND 21700 are too big. that frocking 1mm does the trick and you can use 20700 Sanyos and fit 180 cells inside. Unfortunately it looks like they are EOL production you cant find 20700 anymore(4.25Ah)

18s10p -> 2.75Kwh
18s9p -> 2.9kwh BUT the cover will not fit anymore. so you have to go 18s8p -> 2.6kwh

[scrambler]

I agree that based on the space available, using 21700 may allow to fill more space with cells and therefore allow a bigger battery to fit.

Fitting 70.7mm cells instead of 65.25 inside the 90mm frame space does lead to an 8% increase. Beyond that it will depend where the max number of rows that can fit lands based on a specific frame size.

With 70.7mm long cells, sliding the battery in by tilting it will require a smaller tilt angle so more limitation on the battery height, Using a two piece battery may be the best solution for these cells, and it is really the only one if one wants to really maximize frame space occupancy.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=100198&p=1590414#p1590414

I will be interested to see what you come up with

[Merlin]

2nd battery on toptube is plan B =)
I want it light as possible. i know most guys ride alot throttle only.
but i want a pedal bike "this time".
i even ride my normal (13kg) mtb and enjoy it.


for enduro stuff i have my 161H tuned to whats possbile on this planet

[youtube]J_7JpqW1TrY[/youtube]

[scrambler]

2nd battery on toptube is plan B =)

When I said two piece I meant single battery in the downtube, but in two pieces so it can be installed without the tilting limitations.

I want it light as possible. I know most guys ride a lot throttle only.
but i want a pedal bike "this time".
i even ride my normal (13kg) mtb and enjoy it.

I know what you mean and I totally agree, I rode motorcycles all my life, but I want an electric bike I can pedal

[Cowardlyduck]

The 2170 cells might still be a good option in the future. Apparently that magical 20% increase compared to 18650's is still coming:
https://www.teslarati.com/tesla-2170-ce ... balt-free/
And given the number of other projects I have to tackle first before I can get to my LMX64 battery, by then the 2170's might finally be up to capacity

Cheers

[scrambler]

5 years is a long time, I wish you to get yours done before that

[croydon]

I already run with 21700 cells on my lmx in a jumbo shark case, did some mods on the case itself to fit and works perfect, no problems for a few months now ,did ebike races jumps without any problem compleet built by my self.


so joe has his 15T PULLY mine has stuck somewhere .

[Merlin]

Pics?

[briangv99]

35E are the weakest you can buy. the voltage drop is so high on 8A that you hit LVC at 50% of your battery capacity.

My experience with an EM3EV 35E pack has been positive. so long as the discharge rate is around 1C average, so about an hour of riding, the pack voltage holds up well.

I've had direct a direct side by side comparison with CowardlyDuck's LMX64 with a Jumbo Shark built with Sanyo GA cells and if anything the 35E pack's voltage held up slightly better over the course of the ride.

Horse's for courses really, I wouldn't use 35E's in a race bike, but for the LMX they're a good match. Don't let that stop you buying a high capacity pack from EM3EV.

[croydon]

35E are the weakest you can buy. the voltage drop is so high on 8A that you hit LVC at 50% of your battery capacity.

My experience with an EM3EV 35E pack has been positive. so long as the discharge rate is around 1C average, so about an hour of riding, the pack voltage holds up well.

I've had direct a direct side by side comparison with CowardlyDuck's LMX64 with a Jumbo Shark built with Sanyo GA cells and if anything the 35E pack's voltage held up slightly better over the course of the ride.

Horse's for courses really, I wouldn't use 35E's in a race bike, but for the LMX they're a good match. Don't let that stop you buying a high capacity pack from EM3EV.

you can better make one by yourself .

[briangv99]

true but if you're looking for something ready to go nothing wrong with this option is all I'm saying.

[croydon]

to night did some test ride with the new belt ugrade kit, fun to ride in the snow .

[Merlin]

Nice color job.
Reaaally nice.