kauaicycler wrote: ↑
May 24 2019 12:15pm
I would really like to go with an IGH belt drive for low maintenance and reliability but I can't find a definitive answer on this combination on a mid motor ebike for touring. This might be too cutting edge for my purposes but I don't want to miss out if it would be practical.
There's nothing "cutting edge" about that stuff; it's all been around longer than we have. It's uncommon because it has serious problems.
Belt drives only work right when they have static tension on them. Internal gear hubs only work right when they don't have static tension on them. They can't be reconciled. Combining the two beats up one or both components.
Also, belts don't last significantly longer than chains (sometimes not nearly as long) and they're much more expensive to replace.
[*]Cane Creek eeSilk seatpost, only one rated to hold my fat ass.
[*]Brooks Saddle, my fat ass needs protecting
SR Suntour NCX suspension seatpost doesn't have a lot of travel, but the heavy spring version works for me, and I weigh about 100 pounds more than you do. I'd be concerned about its strength if I were extending it up near the maximum, but on my 68.5cm bike frame it's pretty much all the way down inside.
Brooks saddles can be very comfortable and can last a super long time, but they're not nearly the only good comfy saddles, and they are very expensive. When they get soaked, you have to refrain from riding them until they dry out, or they become ruined. For this reason alone, I'd consider something else for a cross-country touring rig. There are lots of options in saddles that are more weather-resistant and affordable than Brooks, but also every bit as comfortable or more so.
The latest saddle I've been quite happy with is the Cloud9 Metroline Airflow. It's generously sized but not huge, well-padded but not squishy. I can feel the benefit of its rubber suspension without noticing it working or moving (which is analogous to the stiff coil springs on a Brooks Flyer, B67, or B72). It has a grab handle on the back that would work to support a big seat bag if desired. And it's surprisingly inexpensive. There's no telling whether it would work for you without trying it, but it works for me.
[*]Hydraulic brakes, so does the rest of me.
You can get cable brakes that are every bit as strong and effective as disc or rim hydraulic brakes, but are serviceable on the road. Either TRP Spyke/Spyre or Avid BB7 will stand your bike on its nose just like any other good strong brake. BB7 is extremely easy to adjust, and has excellent replacement pads availability.
Hydraulic brakes tend to have problems you can only fix in a workshop setting, and many of their problems are "fixed" only by replacing the brake entirely. They're totally a play bike feature and not good for serious transportation.
Many if not most of the hydro braked bikes I see in the shop have leaks, contaminated pads, pistons that don't retract fully, levers that pull almost all the way to the bars before engaging, or other problems that you don't want to deal with on the road, in places that may not have a bike shop within a day's ride or more. To be fair, many if not most of the cable braked bikes that come into the shop have comparable brake problems, but almost all of those can be fixed with simple adjustments in a couple minutes with a single wrench or hex key.
I often take the slack out of a brake cable and center up the pads at no charge while attending to something else. Hydros? No way-- you have to pay, and you have to ask for it specifically. My inclination is to look the other way. Those things are a huge time-consuming can of worms, and they all demand something different when you bleed or service them.
[*]BBSHD Mid drive kit from Luna Cycle
- Luna Cycle wolfpack v2 (52v Stealth Black - LG MJ1 13.5ah) x 2
BBSHD is a good system if you don't lug it down much slower than it wants to spin. For that reason I'd use a 48V battery for a slightly lower free RPM that's easier to pedal along with (and a reduced likelihood of popping the controller capacitors). My BBS02 gave me about 23 miles to empty with a 48V 13.5Ah Luna Shark pack. That's city riding with frequent stops and approximately 20mph cruise speed, with a cargo bike + me + cargo weight of 450-500 pounds.
If you tour with BBSHD, you'll need to bring extra chains, a chain checker, and a spare cassette or rear sprocket. The larger the sprockets you use to get the overall ratio you need, the better it will work and the longer it will last.
[*] Nuvinci N380 IGH
I don't have experience riding the N380, but I used-- and ruined-- two N171 hubs on my e-bike. They worked great for power transmission, and if I had only used a rim brake instead of a roller brake, then I'd probably still be using the first one I had. The braking force overcame the torque retention of the side cover, and did something not-good to the giblets of the hub. A friend of mine had the same problem with his. He's a normal sized guy, but he was using a disc brake.
NuVinci hubs were never user-serviceable or even shop-serviceable, so once they have problems they are lunched. There's no mothership anymore to send them to. So... cool system, but maybe not the best thing for disc brakes or riding unsupported into the middle of a big continent.
Chain is filthy and it requires lubrication. Still we use it because it's the best thing we've got for the job.
Belts are comparatively clean. They wear out faster than you'd like, and they eat up sprockets when there's any dust, dirt, or sand involved. They require tension to work, which is hard on hub and bottom bracket bearings and murderous to freewheels and freehubs. It can be destructive to gearhubs, too. You have to have a splittable frame or a splittable belt to install them, which introduces a new point of failure. Fixed length belts limit your ability to fine tune your gear ratios. And they cost a bundle.
[*] Chainring teeth if chain?
That's all a matter of what's on the other end of the chain, and how fast you need to go. Avoid 30t front sprockets or anything that moves the chainline outward. Stick to steel sprockets for maximum wear life. I used a 44t, then a 42t stock Bafang steel sprocket, with a 14-34t and then a 16-40t cassette that had been abbreviated to reduce the extremes of chainline.
[*] Since I'll be getting the Eggrider Bluetooth Displayhttps://eggrider.com/
do I need either of these?
- Luna 500c Mini Full Color Display
- Luna 750c Full Color Display
You'll need some kind of display, because that's the control interface for the BBSHD.
[*] Locks will be important since everything I own will be with me. I've done some research and understand the proper way to lock my bike.
Where, when, and how you lock your bike are all more important than what locks you use. Your bike can be damaged beyond repair if someone tries and fails to defeat your lock. I've seen it happen several times to customers' bikes. Pick a good immovable object, and lock in such a way that the bike is immobilized even if it's removed.
Consider reinforcing the mounting rails for your battery packs so that they can't easily be flexed down to release the batteries.
[*] I plan on implementing ghetto tubeless
I advise you not to do that. That's another play-bike feature that only makes sense if you're close to a workshop, or close to the truck you carry the bike with. You need an air compressor or a huge accumulator pump, you're going to make a mess when you have to deal with the sealant or get your tires seated, and the stuff turns into dumplings inside your tires. In the big picture, it is at least as time-consuming as replacing tubes if not more so. The only advantage I see is for the weekend warrior who can only fit in a day of mountain biking once or twice a month, and can afford messing around with tires at home more than he can afford to sacrifice precious riding time out on the trail.
If you get a tire cut that would require a boot to fix, with tubes you can boot the tire, patch or replace the tube, and go. With tubeless, you are stuck figuring out how to get a ride for you and your bike. And you have sticky crap all over you and your stuff.
[*] GPS or Smart Phone?
Smartphones have GPS, and phone, and online maps, and email. Unless you're getting waaay off the beaten track, I can't think of any reason to prefer a dedicated GPS.
[*] I doubt my bike will come with racks so any recommendations? I'm thinking front and rear panniers.
It depends on the bike. Tubus and Surly racks are sturdy and potentially repairable if they break. They cost more than run-of-the-mill aluminum racks.
they'll let you bring them, you mean. But that's up to them, not you.
These can be configured for either 36v or 72v but the BBSHD kit from Luna Cycle says it's for 48v or 52v batteries. Is there a way I can use these batteries now (hacked controller? other controller?) or do I need to wait for them to come out with 48v or 52v options?
Maybe there's a firmware change that would allow the use of 36V batteries? I don't know. The motor would run at 75% speed with diminished torque and power. But 72V would exceed the physical limits of some of the controller components. In either case, it's not really the solution for you.
I would like to develop a relationship with a good bike shop in my area. Since I don't plan on buying a bike from them what is a good strategy to develop a relationship with them? I know they're in business to sell bikes but given the retail apocalypse do they focus more on the service side of their business now? What's the best way to support my local bike shop?
Solicit their help getting set up with accessories. Get routine service on the regular bike stuff from them. Bring some liquid refreshment or snacks, like when you really need to take up some of their time talking through stuff. Don't assume they want anything whatsoever to do with the electrical part of your bike-- but if you can deal with a shop that's e-bike friendly and capable, that's a bonus.
The Golden Rule applies to guerilla charging. Always ask, and respect the answer you get. Remember that when you're traveling on a bike, you're "some homeless dude"/hobo/tramp. That perception can work for you sometimes, but it will often work against you.