Costco Northrock XC00 Fat Bike

Bought a used one for a great price, from a home bicycle tech/reseller/backyarder stacks of bikes guy.

Canucks - https://www.costco.ca/Northrock-XC00-Fat-Tire-Bike.product.100458247.html
Yanks - https://www.costco.com/Northrock-XC00-Fat-Tire-Bike.product.100467336.html

Shimano Altus 7-speed Drivetrain
Tektro Disc Brakes
Kenda 26” x 4.0”
Hand Built 6061 All-aluminum Alloy Press Formed Frame is Light and Responsive
Alloy Rims
18" lightweight all-aluminum frame.
SHIMANO SL-M310 (Altus) Rapid-fire
Velo Mountain Saddle
Velo Grips
Complete bicycle weight is 35.2 lbs.
Headset: integrated, cartridge bearing, sealed, threadless
Cranks: alloy forged, 36T
Bottom bracket: sealed cartridge
Cassette: Shimano (14-28T)
Chain: KMC Z7
32H rims :lol: :wink:
Seatpost: alloy adjustable 30.9mm with quick-release

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152mm crank arms :lol:

Manufactured by Giant, Square tapered VP bc-63, 100mm shell, 150.5mm spindle length, the rear is a freewheel Shimano TZ 21 14-28, Tektro MD 280 discs

Orange and grey is the newer one, older one is red and grey.


Reviews
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtUpd-R46X0
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/new-low-canadian-tire-1070185.html
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/giant-fatty-%24590-982790-2.html#post13508581
https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/what-best-cheap-fatbike-1100330.html#post14030675


Upon my first test ride of any fat bike, aside from riding the fatties in the aisles in CT/WM, I rode in a rocky alley with typical shallow bumps, it seemed good to me. Upon riding home, 3 or 4km, I had to get used to pedaling and the 1x7 drive train so the long yet slight hill I had to walk up for a bit because my conditioning aint that good for pedaling :lol: :wink:

The fat tires took a bit of getting used to, as it likes to ride straight because of the fat contact patch.

A downside is the 32H rims, easy enough to skip a few holes on the hub motor. Mid drive would be perfect for this bike.


Comparing to my current ride, looking for same seating position and wheelbase. Wheelbase looks very close to the Townie.
Start off with....
- Start off with a high rise handle bar, then see what kind of riser stem I need.
- Custom laid back seat post (thicker walls) as I already bent a few stock ones even with their support bar, on other bikes.
- Seat post rack with added side supports
- Small compact mid drive and not the Cyclone 3000W that I have.
- New gears (crank gear & freewheel Megarange or custom stack) for better hill climbing ability.
- Motorcycle rims and motorcycle tires
- [urlhttps://mxus.en.alibaba.com/search/product?SearchText=fat%203000w]Rear 3kw MXUS fatty, or modify regular 3kw MXUS[/url]
- I'd love the Pha$erunner, but I'm too cheap. So a Kelly sinewave under the rear rack, painted black.
- Tiniest battery for a top bar bag (not a triangle)





Some Pictures

No lock, so flipped it onto its seat and took the front wheel off. Kept close eyes on it as I chowed down and contemplated what I am going to do with this bike for winter riding.
View attachment 1





The overall wheel base is close, I will do some measurements comparing the two bicycles. I have to come up with a more civilized torque arm then my usual handiwork. :wink:

Need some shims, Gorilla Tape and a soda can aint enough for the Northrock 31mm diameter clamp.
BMX handlebars will raise it higher.





A comparison of Townie to Northrock, as long as I get it close then thats fine with me. I am not used to the upright position normal bikes provide.

Havent measured but probably go with Wald #8069 Bicycle High-Rise Handlebar (13" Rise)
https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=bicycle+handlebars&ref=nb_sb_noss
...and if I need more height....
https://www.amazon.com/XLC-Avenir-High-Rise-Stem/dp/B01F7GOOXU

Or something shorter if need be like the Wald 869 Hi-Rise Cruiser Bike Handlebar, Chrome, 10.5-Inch Rise
https://www.amazon.ca/Wald-870-Handlebar-24-5-Inch-9-5-Inch/dp/B000EI9RI4/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=bicycle+handlebars&qid=1561339400&s=gateway&sr=8-10

"A downside is the 32H rims, easy enough to skip a few holes on the hub motor. Mid drive would be perfect for this bike."
Please explain this statement. How can 36 be evenly divided by 32. I would prefer a round wheel.

Yep. 32h rims don't lace on 36h hubs, and fewer rims are made available 36h now.
I wonder why no common hub motors are drilled 32h yet.

It is doable, but likes been said, how round would it be.
First link that comes up on 32H 36H - https://www.instructables.com/id/Lacing-Bike-Wheel-36-Holes-Hub-to-32-Holes-Rim/
Uses 3x, 3 sizes of spokes.

No need to worry, its a winter bike and mid drive is on the list.

I went for a ride, I tell ya the feel of the fat tires going down a hill on a curve is quite the feeling. Pedaling is fun!
Now I'm thinking low to medium pedal assist Bafang mid drive with throttle over-ride for hills. Hesitant it will smoke though.
Or say fuckit and dust off the Cyclone 4KW and order a new bb/crank.

Went to two different local bike stores, no go on the stem to bar 31mm(new)-25.4mm(old) adapters, or even a new stem from either, no go. M.E.C. (R.E.I.) had what I needed, fits nice! Brake lever pivot difference is ~2-3" between the 2 bikes, and the seat positions are a ways off too. Noticed the rear brake housing is a tad short or my normal routing wasnt correct, now goes under bar on right side but still catches stem. Changing housings to black for less flash.

Installed cushy seat right in the middle so I dont bend the rails, also a seat post rack, a new stem installed, got new black/black bolt on grips with a smaller size allen wrench. Purchased a new Kryptonite mount from Amazon last night, came today on reg shipping.

View attachment 1

I tell ya, riding that normal (non electrified) fatty on sidewalks, roads, pathways, riding at an angle up curved curbs, over square curbs: Its a specialized bicycle meant for snow, mud and the beach.

For me, I am way better off with a normal mountain bike 75-80% of the time, when pedaling as a normal non e-bike.

I bought this bike cuz it was dirt cheap.

Once its electrified I will comment on how it is, as a daily rider, hopefully I will get used to the feeling of turning the handle bar with the fat tires. Haven't checked what PSI the tires are at, not much of a bulge with 375lbs.

markz said:

...Its a specialized bicycle meant for snow, mud and the beach.

Click to expand...

Nope, it is a Costco
If it was a Specialized, it would be half the weight and 4 to 8 times the cost.

"specialized" not "Specialized" :wink:
Rewroded: Special bike for snow, mud and the beach. Getting used to the steering forces on the fat tires is something to get used to. I saw

Coscto's mtb


Indeed, a few G's for ONE fatty
Fatboy Comp Carbon $3,220.00
Fatboy $1,920.00
Fatboy SE $1,620.00

Electrics fair no better, proprietary systems suck! MTBR Forums love 'em though :lol:
Men's S-Works Turbo Levo $12,050.00
Men's Turbo Levo Expert $8,250.00
Turbo Kenevo Expert Sale $7,049.99 Was $7,550.00
Men's Turbo Levo Comp Carbon $6,950.00
Men's Turbo Levo Comp $5,950.00
Turbo Kenevo Comp Sale $5,249.99 Was $5,750.00
Men's Turbo Levo $4,950.00

DIY
Used Northrock XC00 $200(CDN) $150(USD)
Extra Parts from MEC $40(CDN) $30(USD) includes a new stem and lock-on grips
Cyclone 3kw kit $540 (CDN)$409(USD)
48V 10Ah (Used) Battery $200(CDN) $150(USD)
Total $980(CDN) $740(USD)


https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/2018-specialized-fatboy-1059523.html

2016 Fatboy size Medium at the LBS and it came in at 30.15

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I'm not positive on the weight but going tubeless a sales rep told me his 2018 was down around 28 lbs.

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2018 fatboy (non-se, non-comp; just fatboy) size large, with tubes it was 30.02lbs ish

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Northrock XC00

Complete bicycle weight is 35.2 lbs.

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Beats out any Wally's/CdnT1/Deviant/CdnT2

Pretty good for a weight difference of 8lbs, considering adding electrics adds tons more. :wink:
No need for smooth shifting, or any good crank :wink:

The front fork has a dropout of 120mm and the rear if I recall is 150mm.
No hubs are available in 120mm, and its not listed anywhere in any list for dropout measurement.

markz said:

The front fork has a dropout of 120mm and the rear if I recall is 150mm.
No hubs are available in 120mm, and its not listed anywhere in any list for dropout measurement.

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According to this post, the rear is 170mm and the front is a non-standard 121mm. So you would have to replace the front fork if you want to use a standard sized hub in the front. Or you could go with a rear hub kit or a mid-drive.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/17529124824/permalink/10155615490349825/

Some spacers and a long enough axle would suffice for a 121mm fork dropout.

https://www.amazon.com/Action-Front-16X26Tpi-130mm-Retainers/dp/B001CC4DAS/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Hub+Axle+Kit+front&qid=1565313493&s=gateway&sr=8-6

markz said:

Some spacers and a long enough axle would suffice for a 121mm fork dropout.

https://www.amazon.com/Action-Front-16X26Tpi-130mm-Retainers/dp/B001CC4DAS/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Hub+Axle+Kit+front&qid=1565313493&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Click to expand...

But the bike has disc brakes and the front brake does most of the work. I think you would have a hard time getting the calipers to line up with the disc.

IF you're gonna mess with the front at all, add suspension. You'll be missing it at higher speeds if you don't, even on a fatbike.