A suggestion for the "look" of the problem area at the crown of the otherwise suitable forks you have found: You could use JB Weld or similar to build up that area and paint it.
AFAIK, the reason the fork you have has that wider part (and the reason the headtube does) is specifically because it is aluminum rather than steel. I don't know that it is required for it to be so thick, but generally the ones I see that are thick are also aluminum.
This is not universal; I have a fatbike fork from Luna
that is steel, that is almost exactly what you're after...except that it's a fatbike fork.
Regarding finding a fork like what you're after, In case you hadn't considered it; there's a number of different things about forks that will affect the ride you may need to be sure match the existing fork, aside from the necessity of matching the steerer, and the desire to match the crown width with the headtube's bottom end width.
There's the angle of the fork legs to the steerer; some are straight, some are angled (at various angles). There are different styles of dropouts, which depending on where they put the axle may change the trail and offset, which can change the handling of the bike.
There's also the length of the fork from crown race to dropouts; some forks (especially disc) are longer so that one model accommodates several wheel sizes. That also changes handling.
So if you dont' want to change the handling (with unknown results), you will want to look for a fork that is the same in those respects. That can be difficult as many places don't provide any of that information, unless they happen to provide a straight side view in a high enough resolution to determine by scaling the dimensions already known (steerer tube (1.125") and dropout (10mm) and calculating what it would be.