Hoverboard Batteries vs. Alternatives

I use these batteries on several ebikes I loan to friends: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192753375198. I have often gotten them around $40. I always have bought Samsung cells but just bought two of the LG. I parallel two together for 8.8Ah. Obviously not for long treks.

I am wondering why I don't read about more people using them. They seem considerably cheaper than 36v batteries in cases (per Ah) and so far my experience has been good. I would appreciate feedback from others.

yes they work great especially if you can get them for about $35. Many forum members use them ... do a search.

I'm using the aluminum cased ATL flat cell 9S1P ones in my daily. They seem very robust and in 4P2S configuration (11.5ah or so) can easily keep up with my cyclone when run at reasonable speeds. Getting 25km when charged to 85% and not discharging too deeply.
I'm going to build a case to hold a pair of 5P strings hoping for a solid 30km range which could perhaps get me from home to work without my current need to shuttle via car part way.

Stu Summer said:

I use these batteries on several ebikes I loan to friends: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192753375198. I have often gotten them around $40.

Click to expand...

So anyone know which specific cells?

2p11s right?

So disregarding BMS and build value-add, just under $3 each delivered?

I bought six of these in 2017. I will put two in parallel and that's enough for 20-24 miles. No troubles. I usually don't pull more than 3AH out of them, so they have at least that much capacity left after 3 years. When new, I did verify that they were 4AH. They still hold their voltage better than some 36V 10S-3P UPP packs I have. The latter can lose a volt after a week.

The one shown in Stu's ebay link looks improved too, UL sticker. Balance circuit. The P- and C- pads are together. My older models (1) have no balance circuits and (2) charge thru the output. The latter is bad practice, if your BMS only has its overvoltage protection on the charge circuit. Apparently, most of these older hoverboard packs were made that way, and explains why so many hoverboards caught fire when their chargers failed. I've added 2.5mm charger inputs to the unused C- on a few of my packs, but still take care when charging.

I get a kick out or riding a $300 beater ebike when I use these batteries, That's like the sales tax on some of those high end store bought ebikes. Still got to be careful you don't burn down your house though,

Stu Summer said:

I use these batteries on several ebikes I loan to friends: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192753375198. I have often gotten them around $40. I always have bought Samsung cells but just bought two of the LG. I parallel two together for 8.8Ah. Obviously not for long treks.

I am wondering why I don't read about more people using them. They seem considerably cheaper than 36v batteries in cases (per Ah) and so far my experience has been good. I would appreciate feedback from others.

Click to expand...

I've been running 8 of them (LGs) paralleled for about two years and 9000 miles now. I'm very happy with them. I think making sure that you parallel a few together is necessary for them to last a long time. Lower stress equals longer life. I have another five in another slightly larger case for extra-extra range.

Probably the biggest negative with these is that you are limited to 36 volts and that they don't pack together as compactly as similar capacity batteries built as one unit.

john61ct said:

So anyone know which specific cells?

2p11s right?

So disregarding BMS and build value-add, just under $3 each delivered?

Click to expand...

My LG packs use LG MF1 cells. The packs are 10s2p. I paid $200 for my first 10 - lucked into a special deal. I then paid $150 for the next 5. Haven't seen deals that good on them in a while now. But I keep my eyes open.

docw009 said:

The one shown in Stu's ebay link looks improved too, UL sticker. Balance circuit. The P- and C- pads are together. My older models (1) have no balance circuits and (2) charge thru the output. The latter is bad practice, if your BMS only has its overvoltage protection on the charge circuit. Apparently, most of these older hoverboard packs were made that way, and explains why so many hoverboards caught fire when their chargers failed. I've added 2.5mm charger inputs to the unused C- on a few of my packs, but still take care when charging.

Click to expand...

I too get the same kick. Am wondering though about your comment about charging through the output. These only have one plug.

I really just wanted affirmation that I wasn't stupid. Thanks and I am interested in the output/input charging info.

wturber, thanks for sharing your setup- very sweet and solid looking! I will have to get more sophisticated if I try to string 8 packs together. But your comment encourages me to parallel by two double packs together, making 4 units together. I have been running one double pack and then running the other. Have all 4 unites together will be better for them and no actual inconvenience. Thanks again.

Stu Summer said:

I really just wanted affirmation that I wasn't stupid. Thanks and I am interested in the output/input charging info.

Click to expand...

I've been doing that for two years now. But my charge rate per pack is typically low at about 1 amp per pack or 500 ma per cell which is about half of the standard charge rate and well below the max per cell charge rate of 2150 ma.

I keep a close watch on whether the pack self-discharges by any significant amount between uses- and so far it does not - even the few times it sits for a week or more. I also check the individual packs every couple of months to see if they are all maintaining the same voltage (and check that the wires are all OK) and finally I monitor charge and discharge with an ammeter that is constantly attached to the battery. I know what is normal behavior on charge and discharge and I keep my eye out for anything unusual. So I don't just plug in the charger and assume that what is supposed to be happening is, in fact, happening.

Stu Summer said:

I too get the same kick. Am wondering though about your comment about charging through the output. These only have one plug.

Click to expand...

This picture associated with your ebay listing says your BMS ws designed to be charged/discharged thru the same plug,


My packs were designed to have a separate plug for charging, but the maker chose to use the output plug for both charge/discharge. This makes them less safe, as it removes the overvoltage protection.

As as example, one time a vendor sold me a 52V battery/charger when I ordered a 48V unit. For a year I used a 52V charger with my real 48V battery, and what staved off disaster was thet the BMS on the 48V battery was able to shut off when the pack was fully charged.

Stu Summer said:

I am wondering why I don't read about more people using them. They seem considerably cheaper than 36v batteries in cases (per Ah) and so far my experience has been good. I would appreciate feedback from others.

Click to expand...

I would guess it's all the fires they had. Fires are bad. But I would also guess that most of the ones that burned were abused in some manner. For sure I would pay careful attention to the wire routing and take steps to prevent physical damage.

docw009 said:

My packs were designed to have a separate plug for charging, but the maker chose to use the output plug for both charge/discharge. This makes them less safe, as it removes the overvoltage protection.

Click to expand...

That's likely the cause of those hoverboard fires (combined with the cheap chargers that have unknown but possibly dangerous failure modes). And another problem: One cell (group) gets problematic, and its' enough out of balance after a lot of hard use and not being left on teh charger long enough to balance that there's enough voltage on some cells to be severely overcharged, becuase the BMS can't cut the charger off from the pack....


Wire up the separate charge plug, test to see if it works to shut off charge as it should, and then charge thru that port, reduce the risk of damage and problems.

john61ct said:

Stu Summer said:

I use these batteries on several ebikes I loan to friends: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192753375198. I have often gotten them around $40.

Click to expand...

So anyone know which specific cells?

2p11s right?

So disregarding BMS and build value-add, just under $3 each delivered?

Click to expand...

The cells I got in three hoveboard pack were all LG-Chem ICR18650 MF1 18650 cells.

Datasheet: View attachment Product Spec - ICR18650MF1.pdf

Rated 2150 mAh and 10A max/cell, 3.65V nominal and ICR chemisty (aka LCO, or Lithium Cobalt Oxide, LiCoO2). Tested DC internal resistance was 33 milliohms per cell. Got 3 packs (60 cells) for 105$. I took them all apart and built a 52V 14S4P pack (8.6Ah max 40A) with them. I did not reuse the crappy hoverboard battery pack PCB circuit (not even a real balancing BMS!), but instead, I installed a 45A 14S Li-Ion balancing BMS (balances at 60 mA current). Works great. Use it mainly to overvolt my ancheer 250W 20 inch folding bike which normally uses 36V. After 70 mins and 29 km distance (running around 350W power), pack is a bit warm (around 35-40 deg C). Have not tried it on my BBSHD setup though, as I think 4P too small (not a solid choice) for running close to 1500W.