Show me your front light(s)
- Thread starter VelluK
- Start date
VelluK
1 W
pullin-gs said:
Nothing
I bought a usb rechargeable front and rear light set from Aldi of all places!
Much brighter than my front and rear Cateye lights. The front one is several years old admittedly.
The rear is new though and not a small cheapie.
I'm impressed for £14.99
https://www.aldi.co.uk/front-%26-rear-bike-light-set/p/017096282743300?gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAjwldHsBRAoEiwAd0JybXEUHeG8HMPZTKHVWlYvyFAjgUffibp9NzkT0f_NclrJeknnh38IcxoC264QAvD_BwE
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Much brighter than my front and rear Cateye lights. The front one is several years old admittedly.
The rear is new though and not a small cheapie.
I'm impressed for £14.99
https://www.aldi.co.uk/front-%26-rear-bike-light-set/p/017096282743300?gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=CjwKCAjwldHsBRAoEiwAd0JybXEUHeG8HMPZTKHVWlYvyFAjgUffibp9NzkT0f_NclrJeknnh38IcxoC264QAvD_BwE
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markz
100 TW
It looks like my light is on sale
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/6-1-4-in-led-spot-flood-light/A-p8546038e
It is a little too big for my liking.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/6-1-4-in-led-spot-flood-light/A-p8546038e
It is a little too big for my liking.
I'm using this light:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-12V-80V-20W-Black-LED-Headlight-Lamp-Motorcycle-E-bike-6000K-X6MB/301821806442?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Da18034e42b484284a10de12a71fd7aea%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D301821806442%26itm%3D301821806442%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2060778&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507
Beam is decent. Hot spot is around 150 ft, the sign at the end of the street is around 200 ft out.
I have two additional lights I mount on the accessory bar for trail riding, that can point slightly outwards for a wider angle.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-12V-80V-20W-Black-LED-Headlight-Lamp-Motorcycle-E-bike-6000K-X6MB/301821806442?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Da18034e42b484284a10de12a71fd7aea%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D301821806442%26itm%3D301821806442%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2060778&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507
Beam is decent. Hot spot is around 150 ft, the sign at the end of the street is around 200 ft out.
I have two additional lights I mount on the accessory bar for trail riding, that can point slightly outwards for a wider angle.
Can't seem to find a pic of it shining on something other than the tree right in front of it. :/
Old pics, turn signals are different now (as above) and it has the around-the-corner mirror assembly on top of it now.
No link, but you can find them on various Kias...I found mine in a parking lot after someone's crash left it there. :lol:
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&start=425#p1265248
The other front lighting is just waterproof 12v LED strips, except an old Grin 12LED headlight (that isn't much of a light, but it's there for when I don't need the Kia headlight).
harmonist
10 W
Bought this one because it plugs straight into my 72v battery, does the job nicely https://lunacycle.com/fisher-fab-house-led-e-bike-light/
khorse
10 W
I'm using a real LED motorbike headlight though a meanwell dc-dc power supply.
wturber
1 MW
khorse said:I'm using a real LED motorbike headlight though a meanwell dc-dc power supply.
Looks the same as mine.
recat
100 µW
khorse said:
Don't forget your links
Ive been looking for a decent dc dc power supply.miro13car
100 kW
MarkZ
This LED light from Princess Auto.
What battery it would take to power it on ebike? Just wonder?
Is it not overkill for ebike?
So many LEDs for given lumen output would suggest there are not latest LED technology.
This LED light from Princess Auto.
What battery it would take to power it on ebike? Just wonder?
Is it not overkill for ebike?
So many LEDs for given lumen output would suggest there are not latest LED technology.
Alan B
100 GW
On road bike lights are required (in many places) to have a cutoff somewhat below the horizon, as are vehicle low beams. The best lights have a sharp cutoff. As I understand it European bike lighting standards require this. Fenix bike lights have this as do many others made for the purpose.
Broad beam lights, flashlights, offroad and high beam lights can be aimed down but the spill beam above the line is often still too bright, and the main beam is too low and too close in. Better to use legal on-road vehicle low beam or purpose made bike lights to meet these requirements.
Light above the cutoff line is a safety problem for oncoming drivers and pedestrians.
Bike lights also have some light in close but not too much as that light doesn't have as far to go before it comes back to the rider's eyes. Too much reflected back interferes with the rider's vision and reduces their ability to see as far. A graduated beam that increases in intensity as it gets higher angle and then cuts off abruptly is desired. Riders need to see the road in close as well as hazards farther out.
A good light is a balance of many requirements. Throwing a bunch of high output LEDs in a reflector can be cheap but may be a poor match for what is needed in real no-streetlight night riding conditions.
Running from the ebike battery is very handy, though in areas where lights are required if the main battery is depleted the lighting is lost and this becomes a safety and a legal issue, depending on the rules in your area.
Lights with built in batteries that have readouts of remaining battery life are very useful and help the rider to select a light level that will last long enough for the remainder of the ride. USB charging is also very convenient and eliminates the need to keep track of a specific charger.
Broad beam lights, flashlights, offroad and high beam lights can be aimed down but the spill beam above the line is often still too bright, and the main beam is too low and too close in. Better to use legal on-road vehicle low beam or purpose made bike lights to meet these requirements.
Light above the cutoff line is a safety problem for oncoming drivers and pedestrians.
Bike lights also have some light in close but not too much as that light doesn't have as far to go before it comes back to the rider's eyes. Too much reflected back interferes with the rider's vision and reduces their ability to see as far. A graduated beam that increases in intensity as it gets higher angle and then cuts off abruptly is desired. Riders need to see the road in close as well as hazards farther out.
A good light is a balance of many requirements. Throwing a bunch of high output LEDs in a reflector can be cheap but may be a poor match for what is needed in real no-streetlight night riding conditions.
Running from the ebike battery is very handy, though in areas where lights are required if the main battery is depleted the lighting is lost and this becomes a safety and a legal issue, depending on the rules in your area.
Lights with built in batteries that have readouts of remaining battery life are very useful and help the rider to select a light level that will last long enough for the remainder of the ride. USB charging is also very convenient and eliminates the need to keep track of a specific charger.
LeftieBiker
100 kW
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2012
- Messages
- 1,107
Can anyone link a good light that will work well on 48-54 volts, has a high and low beam, and a handlebar-mount switch for both power and beam?
I got this for $20 from ebay. Called NovSight Bicycle Light
has cut-off so it limits brightness to horizon or below 140 lux at 10 meters
https://imgur.com/a/eXWllrd
has cut-off so it limits brightness to horizon or below 140 lux at 10 meters
https://imgur.com/a/eXWllrd
That's one reason I used the Kia headlight when I found it; it also has a good beam spread to cover a fair bit of road more evenly than the old 1980s Ford headlight I'd been using before that. It's rather large for a regular bicycle, but not for the SB Cruiser trike.Alan B said:
It also has a good high beam, but I very rarely need that. I tried an LED replacement bulb, which claimed quite a lot of lumens, but was far dimmer than the regular halogen (H4?) bulb that I found at goodwill that fits in the Kia headlight, and didn't make the right beam pattern vs the halogen.
Part of the reason I have a separate lighting battery is for this; it should have several hours of runtime without the main headlight on, and at least three or four hours with it on. (and various sections of the rest of the lighting have their own switches, so I can run whatever parts are needed at teh time).
No separate meter ATM, but I've considered figuring out a way to use the Solar firmware for the CA3 to let me monitor the lighting pack as well as the traction pack.
khorse
10 W
To me there's no point in a seperate lighting battery because you can always wire a switch to turn accessories off separately from the motor. That's what I did. It's a lot more convenient to know everything charges off one cable.
What I'm wiring up next is a relay on the ignition switch so that the lights can't work when the motor is off. That way I can hop on hop off faster on my delivery rounds.
The lamp was ebay'd from a UK seller, not listed anymore but was titled "5.75" Round 40W Lamp Daymaker Projector LED Motorcycle Headlight For Harley"
There are a lot of fakes on ebay that come for stupidly low prices, (£20 or so) including headlight bucket and etc. DON'T buy them. They have basically nothing inside and about half a watt of power. Get a real LED headlight guts from a trusted seller, where you can see it's big and heavy and has cooling fins on it.
Power supply is a Mean Well RSD-60L-12. That is to say, 60W of power, L=input power 18-72V DC range, output 12 volts. Best to find a seller in your own country but they're about £60.
What I'm wiring up next is a relay on the ignition switch so that the lights can't work when the motor is off. That way I can hop on hop off faster on my delivery rounds.
recat said:khorse said:
Don't forget your links
The lamp was ebay'd from a UK seller, not listed anymore but was titled "5.75" Round 40W Lamp Daymaker Projector LED Motorcycle Headlight For Harley"
There are a lot of fakes on ebay that come for stupidly low prices, (£20 or so) including headlight bucket and etc. DON'T buy them. They have basically nothing inside and about half a watt of power. Get a real LED headlight guts from a trusted seller, where you can see it's big and heavy and has cooling fins on it.
Power supply is a Mean Well RSD-60L-12. That is to say, 60W of power, L=input power 18-72V DC range, output 12 volts. Best to find a seller in your own country but they're about £60.
hypertoric_amplituhedron
100 W
Light N Motion Seca 2500 Enduro. 2500 lumens for 2.5 hours, 1250 lum for 5 hours , 625 lum for 10 hours.
ZeroEm
1 MW
These lights are new to my trike put on a switched/lock converter 72v to 12v for a golf cart. walked in to Autozone and picked out motorcycle fog lights, two in a box only have one mounted don't need the other. my running lights are just car interior leds and picked up the tail light at Wally world.
Its a small led fog light 3.5 watt 150 lumens
Sorry its night here so all dark pics. angle is from the seat of trike looking out.
Side view of trike at night, you like or not?
Front and rear lights are 12v - 24v running lights state 12v would like to run 24v.
Its a small led fog light 3.5 watt 150 lumens
Sorry its night here so all dark pics. angle is from the seat of trike looking out.
Side view of trike at night, you like or not?
Front and rear lights are 12v - 24v running lights state 12v would like to run 24v.
wturber
1 MW
Alan B said:
This is one of those things that is nice in theory, but not so nice in practice. I get blinded by headlights far more frequently now than I ever did with the older, dimmer headlights that did not have that nice sharp horizon line cut off.
I live in a hilly area, and that means we have a constantly shifting angle of attack. SUVs and their elevated heights mean that even properly aimed headlights are shooting directly into the back window of a conventional passenger car. And then, of course, there's the problem of people simply not aiming their headlights correctly and/or running brights when they ought not. From the standpoint of blinding drivers, I think the current situation is a horrible mess. I really feel sorry for people who are light sensitive at night.
One thing I like about my motorcycle headlight is that it has a proper high and low beam - and I have that feature operational.
I also run a battery powered light as a backup. I run it as a flasher during the day and steady at night. It recharges from my 12v to USB adapters. My 12 volts comes from a 60 watt DC converter that is fully encapsulated. The 12 volts sub-system is switched on/off by a separate switch.
Alan B
100 GW
The US headlight rules are not in good shape, but even worse the aftermarket is full of products that are not legal. LED and HID bulbs don't emit the same way filaments do and cannot be swapped and maintain the design, but the aftermarket is full of such products and their use is widespread. Law Enforcement seems nonexistent in this area. The off-color HID lights are also illegal, but are seen frequently.
But none of this is a reason to encourage ebikes to add to the light pollution above the line. They have little need for light at hundreds of yards. They do have need of proper light at various distances, and there are designs that meet this need, but most folks are looking for the cheapest brightest not what is best for seeing at night.
But none of this is a reason to encourage ebikes to add to the light pollution above the line. They have little need for light at hundreds of yards. They do have need of proper light at various distances, and there are designs that meet this need, but most folks are looking for the cheapest brightest not what is best for seeing at night.
Oh, i have that, too. But that doesn't help if the motor runs the traction pack down to zero, and you still need lights.khorse said:
That's part of why I have a separate lighting pack. The other reason is that I don't have a DC-DC that handles the turn-on surge for the halogen headlight very well, and on my previous bike I also had car horns (which will probably someday get moved to the trike) that take a lot of current, more than the DC-DCs I've had can handle even without the headlight on.
Sure; but in my case everything *could* charge off one cable if I mounted the lighting pack charger on the trike like I have the traction pack charger--just plug in the AC cord and walk away, like I do now for the traction pack. The only reason I haven't done that is I use that charger (Satiator) for other purposes as well, and don't presently have anything else other than a basic RC charger that will charge the lighting pack. (I did do this for a short time and it worked well; am probably going to do it again soon as I don't often need the Satiator for something else).
What I have is a main traction battery cutoff switch, which when switched off completely cuts the power to controllers, CA, etc., as well as the small DC-DC that powers an automotive relay which passes power from the lighting battery to the lights/etc. (I also use automotive relays to control the headlight power, etc., so I can use small switches and very very small wires in the control cable, as they dont' have to pass significant current).
There is a bypass for this, in case the traction battery runs out, (or has some other failure) to keep the lights on.
recat
100 µW
Alan B said:
If my e-bike's battery runs out, I think i have a MUCH bigger problem than worrying about lighting.
However, the controllers I have output some voltage when you pedal the bike past 10 km/h. This voltage in turn powers my current headlight. We all have giant highly efficient generators strapped on to our bikes, remember? :wink: My light runs on between 10 volts and 80 volts, so it works out!Here's my light. Cost me 9 euro from banggood https://www.banggood.com/30W-18-LED-985V-3000Lm-6000K-Aluminium-Alloy-Motorcycle-Headlights-p-1294972.html
It's pretty damn bright, but since i'm doing a total rebuild of my bike, i can't show how it looks out on the street. It definitely has no cutoff whatsoever, so you really have to aim it down if there's anyone in front of you. Works an absolute treat for me though. I mainly do off-road riding in complete pitch black darkness. (Like mountain trails)
khorse
10 W
If it doesn't have a cutoff, make a hood out of something. I did that with my old lights, that way I could aim it out far and the hood splashed the light back down closer to me.
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