Cycle Analyst + Cyclone stock controller throttle cutting off

D

DtiK

10 W
Joined
Feb 9, 2020
Messages
68
Hello,

i have strange problem.

First of all, i have:

CA 3.1
Stock controller without programmability

Everything working but i have this problem:
every 1-2 minutes while driving, the throttle stops working after release and it is only restored by pushing the ignition switch back and forth :roll:

When problem comes, CA display shows there is throttle coming nicely in, and coming out.

What shall I do?
 
i can make some guesses, but need more info from you.

guesses first:

the most likely thing is the controller is timing out from a lack of a sensor input, probably a speed sensor; this is common on some kinds of controllers (programmable or not) that usually have their own lcd units.

second most likley is it is detecting overheating, or low battery voltage, etc. and shutting down.

other possibilities include the ca throttle output range is at the edge of or even outside what the ocntroller can accept, so the ocntroller shuts down when the throttle voltage goes outside the range.


now the more info:

did this system ever work, or has it always done exactly this since it was first assembled and turned on?

if it did ever work, exactly what happened (changed) between the time it worked and the time it started doing what it does now?
 
amberwolf said:
i can make some guesses, but need more info from you.

guesses first:

the most likely thing is the controller is timing out from a lack of a sensor input, probably a speed sensor; this is common on some kinds of controllers (programmable or not) that usually have their own lcd units.

second most likley is it is detecting overheating, or low battery voltage, etc. and shutting down.

other possibilities include the ca throttle output range is at the edge of or even outside what the ocntroller can accept, so the ocntroller shuts down when the throttle voltage goes outside the range.


now the more info:

did this system ever work, or has it always done exactly this since it was first assembled and turned on?

if it did ever work, exactly what happened (changed) between the time it worked and the time it started doing what it does now?
Click to expand...

System is just assembled so problem has been always there.

I measured and throttle voltage goes from CA to controller just fine, so issue must be in controller. But I don't know what actual problem is, why it shuts down.
 
E-HP said:
DtiK said:
CA 3.1
Stock controller without programmability
Click to expand...

What is a stock controller?

Does the problem occur if you hook the throttle up directly to the controller?
Click to expand...

oops forgot to mention I have Cyclone kit.

Controller is Cyclone 36-72V/40A
 
Have you tried it with the brake cut-offs disconnected? (low brake connections) And any other non-essentials whilst testing...


Regards,
T.C.
 
TommyCat said:
Have you tried it with the brake cut-offs disconnected? (low brake connections) And any other non-essentials whilst testing...


Regards,
T.C.
Click to expand...

I don't have them at use. So yes, they are disconnected. Wires cut off and shielded.
 
TommyCat said:
What are the actual throttle voltages that you are reading going into the controller? (Closed and Wide open throttle)
Click to expand...

~1.0V and ~3.6V
 
My next step would be to get the bike set up in a static testing position having it properly secured with the back wheel off the ground. Then run it till the issue appears, clamping the throttle at 1/2 twist at that time. Effectively "sticking" it in the broken state. Then measure voltages at that time to verify...1)full battery power, 2) 5vdc controller power, and 3) throttle in/output. If all that checks A-OK... then carefully move the harness/connectors/wiring, pulling and pushing a bit at all locations to see if it will restart. Being wary at all times that the motor may start running.

Does this represent your system?

fetch


If so you may find more clues here...

https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/knowledge-base/motors-and-kits/cyclone-3000w
 
Hello

Stock 40A controller has wires for configuring "70% current".

What for is it? Is it limited when wires are together or leave open?
 
Hello

I have cyclone 3000w motor
Cycle analyst
72v Battery pack

First 40A controller never worked properly, did total black outs randomly when throttle was closed.
Second 40A controller made bike running like on back of kangaroo (on same settings than first one)

Which controller do you recommend for EASY to configure and/or GOOD working out-of-the-box. Don't need any fancy things ...
 
what could cause this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oN-e6Owqhg

It's 3000w cyclone and black 40A controller without bluetooth/programmability

Accelerating = does that as on video
Accelerating on full power = goes ok for a moment
Speed limit enabled or power limit achieved = does that as on video

speed limits are disabled
throttle running on "current" mode
40A current limit
3000W power limit
 
The cyclone is a POS. Heavy, inefficient, big, made for bottom dollar and easily dies on overheat. It will always suck, even when it works.

Give it up, get a CYC X1 pro.
 
I'd say it's either controller or BMS issue. No info on either one, so cannot help.
Nothing wrong with motor though.
 
It is heavy , 10 lbs not including the cranks/freewheel that add another 2-2.2 lbs ,
However
In what way is it inefficient ? ( I do what to know since I have one the 2019 GNG )
What power levels ( amps and watts ) does it overheat ?
and
Have you tried the 2019 Cyclone 3000 watt one that GNG sells ?
That is reported to have solved many/the problems of the previous cyclone .

Regarding the X1 pro, I just went to the CYC website yesterday to see what the X1 Pro 2 ( which has necessary improvements over the X1 Pro Gen1 and the cost to the door to the U.S. is ... $ 1,048 !
The 2019 Cyclone 3000 watt that GNG gets to the U.S for around ... $ 650

Big difference price wise , , heavier than the X1 Pro gen 1 & 2, by about 2-2.5 pounds , but nearly half the price .






quote="flat tire" post_id=1533540 time=1583111196 user_id=36583]
The cyclone is a POS. Heavy, inefficient, big, made for bottom dollar and easily dies on overheat. It will always suck, even when it works.

Give it up, get a CYC X1 pro.
[/quote]
 
minimum said:
I'd say it's either controller or BMS issue. No info on either one, so cannot help.
Nothing wrong with motor though.
Click to expand...

Thanks. This issue came after changing controller. But reason for changing controller was another issue with throttle (disappearing randomly).
 
You have to search the cyclone posts. This has been answered many times. If I knew I’d let you know but I know the information is there when I need it by searching. Pink wire and a paper clip is what I remember.
 
DtiK said:
minimum said:
I'd say it's either controller or BMS issue. No info on either one, so cannot help.
Nothing wrong with motor though.
Click to expand...

Thanks. This issue came after changing controller. But reason for changing controller was another issue with throttle (disappearing randomly).
Click to expand...

Thottle wiring needs to be checked.
Was the acceleration ok with previous controller?

Test this controller with the wheel in the air.
 
Tommm said:
DtiK said:
minimum said:
I'd say it's either controller or BMS issue. No info on either one, so cannot help.
Nothing wrong with motor though.
Click to expand...

Thanks. This issue came after changing controller. But reason for changing controller was another issue with throttle (disappearing randomly).
Click to expand...

Thottle wiring needs to be checked.
Was the acceleration ok with previous controller?

Test this controller with the wheel in the air.
Click to expand...

checked.
yes it was.
wheel on air = seems to run ok.


I replaced controller with new one (xld brainpower), and now it runs OK!??!.

So faulty controller maybe.. brand new though :cry:
 
I guess it was a sinewave controller, which are sensitive to c3k motor "ghost hall signal" issue, discussed already a while back.
Either generic trap controller or nucular (which filters out those false signals) runs fine.
 
What could cause this:

First came this:
No output voltage to "throttle out" (but on screen it shows there should be)
Then this problem
Input voltage shows 5V, no matter if anything connected to throttle in
display blinks "throttle error"

I opened it but did not see burned components
 
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