EV/LTO Battery Build - LTO, EV, or Combo?

bakaneko

100 W
Joined
Oct 25, 2018
Messages
203
So, guys, as the season approaches while staring at 1 feet of snow and 10F outside, I am planning out my new build. My old bike will probably be sold to a friend at a deep discount. The new build will be a bit novel to me and maybe many others, but I would like to do an used EV/LTO or both build with a Cyclone 3kW or just a plain 1-1.5kW hub maybe even a CYC with the ability to upgrade to a LR Big Block motor.

I will learn, and hopefully not burn down my garage, a lot of new skills such as BMS wiring and working with raw cells. This is what I am thinking either a hybrid LTO/EV battery where the LTO (1kWh<) gets drawn/cycled first and then a EV (3kWh) gets used for long trips. This is obviously for the fact most runs/errands are within 30 miles round trip and LTO have huge cycle life. The EV will simply be switched on for long trips or random long cruising. In this case, the LTO will probably go on top tube and EV in the frame.

If not, I will just stick to EV as I do want the large range. The LTO batteries will most likely be the Toshiba SCIB and the EV will be whatever is on hand but looking for $100 per kwH for the EV.

Any thoughts? I think I might just start with the LTO as I am really really interested in that tech. This will replace my 1kWh cheap bad scooter batteries and gas generator 72V Cyclone.
 
So I guess you're aware that LTO will be at least 3x bulkier and heavier per Ah?

By going to super dense especially lipo you could get very long lifespan by only using 60-70% capacity on average and reducing C-rate discharge.

Might even be cheaper too. . .

Finally maintaining two separate chemistries just seems too complex, I'm a KISS fan. . .
 
yeah, i agree with KISS. but i want something truly cool. lto is so cool and also safer... but the used ev battery market is at $100 per kwH. I can get a whole lot of range over coolness of LTO. and, trying to match the nominal voltage of both packs would be a nightmare. so i probably gotta decide on one or the other.
 
"ev" doesn't mean anything except "electric vehicle".

so you need to use the specific chemistry or type of cell you're talking about, because lto cells are *also* used in ev's.

that means that if your ev pack ends up being lto then you are comparing lto to lto.... ??
 
by ev, i mean batteries that use to be in an EV car specifically designed for high amp draw and high cycles. i havent seen one lto car yet but there are scooters. the lto i am interested in is the toshiba lto scib which is used primarily in industrial vehicle such as autonomous robots and equipment. 20k+ cycles and extremely high amps. but of course, much less energy dense than other batteries and nominal voltage is low like 2.6V? the saying with lto is that they last so long you will have to put it in your will. of course, this is just a saying and doesnt account normal time related degradation.

edit: there are many chemistries across different evs - bmw, leaf, tesla, etc. it all comes down to availability when i hit the buy button. though when i do, i will research the best one. also, these batteries are designed for high amp draw. just gotta find a quality used one.
 
I've never heard of LTO used in a commercially produced EV.

Being 2.3Vnom does make it the red-headed step-child of the LI family. (2.6V is Full at rest like 4.1V, 3.3V for LFP)

And even (much) worse density than LFP, which has been rejected for decades now for that reason.

Except maybe huge public transportation vehicles?

I heard rumours about LTO for buses, getting super-high C-rate recharging en route, can fully recharge in 10min.

But I doubt ever put into production. . .

So yes usually "EV packs" mean from scrapped cars like Leaf, Volt, Tesla etc and people don't care which of the many 3.6-3.7Vnom LI chemistries are inside.

Not saying that factor doesn't matter, just that it is usually glossed over.



 
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