25000 mile club

RustyKipper

100 W
Joined
Apr 13, 2015
Messages
117
Location
South Yorkshire UK the land of flat caps and wippe
Hey all, I've made it to the 25,000 miles club!!!

These are not your Sunday morning pleasure miles, oh no, these are hard fought white knuckle rush hour day in day out commuting miles, the UK is a bit of an insane place to do a daily extreme commute as it is hellishly busy at the best of times and for 6 months of the year its both battered by Atlantic storms and in perpetual darkness, oh, and a lot of the roads I use have flowers tied to every second lamp post just to focus the mind!
Extreme commute? 25 – 30 miles per day, often with a brutal 40mph headwind on way to work and a savage 700 foot climb on the return, terrain is dual carriageways, B roads, river banks, cobbled streets, farm tracks, forest tracks a swamp, a hay meadow and a quarry.

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Usually about half of the commute is off road however the UK has been in pretty poor shape for the last few months as its been mostly underwater, some of the storms and flooded rivers have washed a lot of the tracks away and many farmers fields have been under water for several months, in fact we had to abandon work late last year when the river burst its banks, the city was grid locked so several people at work had to abandon their cars and wade waist deep through the water, but on my ebike I could react quickly and make it to high ground. Even so it was pretty hairy as I had to ride through water that was lapping around the hub motor, the chain and pedals were completely submerged, a lot of the car drivers would let me ride through the water first so they could gauge the depth.
It was pretty scary to hear the distant sound of flood sirens then find out on the news that night that one of the local dams had started to fail. One of the roads is still blocked from a landslide several moths later.

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I had probably my worst fall late last year when I underestimated the lubricating quality of cow poo on a sharp corner. I ended up having 9 Xrays and spent 2 weeks with both hands bandaged as I lost almost all of my knuckles and a good portion of my left knee, in fact the only limb to survive intact was my right leg which I then damaged walking home from the hospital when I tripped over a drain cover....Doh, then I got to my front door I couldn't get the key out of my pocket as both hands were bandaged..... It looks like my left wrist was broken, the doctor could feel the break but the Xray was inconclusive, after a few weeks the swelling finally went down then I could see the big lump on the bone, I spent a good few weeks doing this commute one handed due to the pain, I tried driving to work in the car but after 2 days remembered why I rode a bike to work as I had to negotiate some 40 sets of traffic lights each way and spend 90% of the time stationary. My face took a good pounding also as in the same incident I went sliding along the road on it, I didn't realize at the time that I broke my cheekbone so may face is a bit unsymmetrical now. When my left hand started to turn completely black I really got worried. The only damage to the bike was the rear reflector came loose, I built this bike to take some serious abuse. I'm going to write a book on my ebiking adventures one day!

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The bikes running well, I've just rebuilt the CST hub motor after the clutch failed and fitted new bearings so now there is zero sideways play in the wheel. The only ongoing problems are the seals on the front forks get constantly chewed up from the abrasive grit that gets thrown up from the road in heavy rain, horrible front fork flex even though I'm using 32mm stanchions and 90% of the time I've got pretty much no brakes. This last one is a bit of a mystery, whatever brand of pads I buy will only ever last a couple of days before they lose all friction, I find if I keep them wet I can still get useable performance out of them for a while, I just buy the cheapest ebay pads I can find now and change them once a week, they are obviously getting contaminated with something but I've no idea what, I can only put it down to unburnt biodiesel in the air.

Crikey this post is longer than War and peace!
 
I can imagine riding in UK.
Visited UK 2 years ago and first thing I noticed were the narrow roads with tiny shoulders or no shoulder at all.
such a contrast to average NAmerican road.
 
miro13car said:
I can imagine riding in UK.
Visited UK 2 years ago and first thing I noticed were the narrow roads with tiny shoulders or no shoulder at all.
such a contrast to average NAmerican road.

The frightening this is that a lot of the shoulders have been removed or turned into live running lanes so if your car breaks down you have a few seconds to get out and run like hell :shock: its pretty terrifying!

On the other end of the scale this is one of the roads near work, this one will shake your teeth out even with balloon tires :p

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Excellent ! ( My body could not handle your commute )

Since it is your main commute transportation vehicle some upgrades are in order .

1) New Fork with Front Wheel that is a through axle hub wheel and fork .
A 35 mm stanchion Rock Shok Pike ,
or better yet 36 mm stanchion Fox 36 .
or other larger diameter stanchion fork .
A brand new SR Suntour Aion RC Fork could possibly be as flex resistant with it's 34 mm stanstions as a used Pike or
Fox 36 . https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/suntour-aion-35-rc-boost-forks/rp-prod194870
( Note : Lower head set bearings are available to convert a 1 1/8 lower to be able to accept a 1.5 tapered fork )
Or ,
A Used fork would be good enough for the street as long as it is not damaged .
Often people will sell their forks instead of spending $ 200-$ 300 to get it Serviced-Rebuilt .
That way they get the latest model , so will sell their 3-6+ year old forks for an upgrade.
Chain Reaction Cycles in your area sometimes has great prices on , New , Forks that are 3 + Design/Mgf. year old.
and good prices on Wheels and Hubs / spokes /rims as well.


You want 35mm - 40 mm stanchions, a through axle , and get some stanchion protectors , I do not know if Lizard Skins still makes them , someone should make them .
Also
A fork with more travel will give your bike more rake which will be more stable at speed. ( Although my little CST motor would not go over 22 mph at the very best , even on 14 s battery pack )
And
Do not hesitate to make your bike a 27.5 or 29 er / 26 combo . ( 27.5 inch wheel or 29 inch wheel in front and 26 in back )
This will also help with higher speed stability .

Best if you can buy the Fork and Wheel combo from the same buyer .

Are you cleaning your brake rotors with alcohol after each ride ?

Are you ready yet for a Mac / GMac , or DD rear hub ?

My two CST motors are just sitting in storage now, I have much more fun with the more powerful motors these days .







RustyKipper said:
The only ongoing problems are the seals on the front forks get constantly chewed up from the abrasive grit that gets thrown up from the road in heavy rain, horrible front fork flex even though I'm using 32mm stanchions and 90% of the time I've got pretty much no brakes. This last one is a bit of a mystery, whatever brand of pads I buy will only ever last a couple of days before they lose all friction, I find if I keep them wet I can still get useable performance out of them for a while, I just buy the cheapest ebay pads I can find now and change them once a week, they are obviously getting contaminated with something but I've no idea what, I can only put it down to unburnt biodiesel in the air.
 
Thanks ScooterMan,

Those suntour forks are a good find! I might buy a set of those instead of spending out on new seals for the Fox Vanilla's that I'm using now which are very disappointing with regards to flex, I've also worn through the anodizing into the aluminium. My head tube is 44mm so I have a good choice of bearings.

I think through axle will also help, it just means building a couple more wheels as I have to swap between knobblies / balloon / ice tires depending on weather which is not a huge issue.

Little CST motor :lol: we go to jail if we use anything over 250W, obviously my motors not over that.

As for the brakes, yes I wash the rotors in isopropanol and I've tried acetone and I scuff them with abrasive paper to remove the glaze. I'm using Shimano Zee 4 pot callipers front and rear, when they work they are awesome, its so frustrating when a pad has almost zero wear yet there can be absolutely no friction available. I've tried sanding off the surface of the pad and bedding in with water but nothing! I don't think its an overheating issue, the bike will reach 40mph freewheeling down some of the hills but most of the braking is at less than 20mph. I don't think is leaking hydraulic fluid as the rear of the pads are bone dry.

As for wheel size I'm kind of stuck with 26 inchers, anything bigger makes the bike to big to get though the gates out in the country side, also they give me better climbing ability as I have a couple of 30% climbs.

I can just get through one of these with 26 inch wheels.
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This is a great post, it has heroic riding and a real bike and real information.

Well done, you are doing the cycling that many of us wish we were doing.

Best regards,

Mike S in San Antonio, TX
 
Wow...great accomplishment--congratulations!

'when I underestimated the lubricating quality of cow poo on a sharp corner...' Yes, I've discovered the same during my off-road riding in US public lands, almost all of which are regularly grazed by cattle. What's deceptive as you've probably discovered is that the outer 'skin' of the pile is pretty dry, deceptively hiding the gooey/slippery center. Sorry about your injuries; fortunately where I ride, the grassland/pasture is pretty forgiving on falls...mainly just cactus spines to extract if you go down in the wrong spot.
 
Nice! well done. I stopped counting the miles when I reached 10,000 or so. I'm sure I never made it to 25000, since I got sick and stopped commuting. I must ride less than 500 miles a year now by e bike, but ride 400 or so miles a year on ordinary bikes, trying to get healthier.
 
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