Where are all the 1000w cassette motors?

I don't understand, but it seems like all the 1000w 48v geared hub motors are screw on freewheels. Is there some physical limitation that prevents them from being made? The measurements on the following motors show the same case size, but the cassette version is 500w instead of 1000w. What am I missing?

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The cassette is almost always too wide, making the space for the motor too tight. So the cassette motor often ends up with skinnier motors in them, which can handle less wattage. Less copper, less magnet, less power.

It sure can be a hassle, to convert a good 9 speed to 7. But once you realize that you won't be shifting every 5 min anymore, it becomes easy to ride with 7, or even just 3 gears. Road bikes stay in the highest gear all the time, and dirt bikes just get left in a middle gear almost all of any ride. Stand the pedals and just throttle it on the downhills, and pedal up only once the bike slows to your chosen gear.

And then, there is the typically favorite choice of those who come from a very big bicycle background, mid drives.

Leafbike is one option.

https://www.leafbike.com/products/e-bike-hub-motor/48v-52v-1000w-rear-spoke-hub-motor-electric-bike-motor-spline-cassette-1015.html

dogman dan said:

The cassette is almost always too wide, making the space for the motor too tight. So the cassette motor often ends up with skinnier motors in them, which can handle less wattage. Less copper, less magnet, less power.

It sure can be a hassle, to convert a good 9 speed to 7. But once you realize that you won't be shifting every 5 min anymore, it becomes easy to ride with 7, or even just 3 gears. Road bikes stay in the highest gear all the time, and dirt bikes just get left in a middle gear almost all of any ride. Stand the pedals and just throttle it on the downhills, and pedal up only once the bike slows to your chosen gear.

And then, there is the typically favorite choice of those who come from a very big bicycle background, mid drives.

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I have a 7 speed I'm looking to convert, but they're still super hard to find!

spinningmagnets said:

Leafbike is one option.

https://www.leafbike.com/products/e-bike-hub-motor/48v-52v-1000w-rear-spoke-hub-motor-electric-bike-motor-spline-cassette-1015.html

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Thanks for the suggestion, I've looked at this site but none of them are geared (I want to still have a pedal-able bike when I go for a ride with the wife or in case I run out of juice).

I am new to the ebike scene, but I see tons of older posts about Ezee, MACs, and other relatively hefty rated motors that I just cannot seem to find from retailers at all, either the retailers referenced don't exist anymore or the ones that do are sold out.

Did I just come into the scene at a weird time? Are these COVID-related supply chain issues or is something else at play?

Sorry I missed that. Just keep looking. A big manufacturer like Bafang likely has a cassette geared hub.

EUNORAU has hub motors with cassettes including an 8T Mac rated at 48V, 1000w.

Im sorry but im never buying freewheel motor again, complete waste of time, not mentioning rear derraileur doesnt fit after 1200km there is result , not to mention freewheel gets destroyed because its constantly spinning bearings and they get hot https://youtu.be/yt78ZCLJ7V4

Davidcroatia said:

Im sorry but im never buying freewheel motor again, complete waste of time, not mentioning rear derraileur doesnt fit after 1200km there is result , not to mention freewheel gets destroyed because its constantly spinning bearings and they get hot https://youtu.be/yt78ZCLJ7V4

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A freewheel only spins when it isn’t under load from chain tension. There’s no way for it to get hot unless you do something very wrong.

I think you’re probably blaming proven equipment for the results of user errors caused by inexperience.

The video doesn’t show results of heat. It shows a combination of poor quality components and lack of lubrication on assembly.

Lubrication was done, i dont pedal, i have done only throttle on 1200kilometers going average 20 to 30km h , if a shimano cassette is bad quality i cant tell that but bearings got bad, and threads are bad, all was assembled by specs in a bike shop using torque wrench, so bad instalation is off the question

Davidcroatia said:

Lubrication was done, i dont pedal, i have done only throttle on 1200kilometers going average 20 to 30km h , if a shimano cassette is bad quality i cant tell that but bearings got bad, and threads are bad, all was assembled by specs in a bike shop using torque wrench, so bad instalation is off the question

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Then it was probably bad thread form or dimensions on the side cover. Anyway not a problem related to freewheel versus cassette. Shoddy Chinese manufacturing applies equally to cassettes. Maybe more, because they're more complicated.

One thing to consider is that the cassette versions of these motors usually have smaller axles and/or bearings on the cassette freehub side. The freehub body itself has to be nonstandard to make space for the hub motor's large axle. That can make them more trouble, not less.

Cassette freehubs were designed to solve a problem with traditional bicycle hubs-- when you overhang a 10mm axle far enough to make room for 7 or more gears, it's easy to bend or break it. Cassettes move the axle support bearing to the outside end, so there isn't much leverage to bend it. But hub motors use large solid axles of 15-19mm diameter at the outer end, so they aren't subject to the same problems, and cassette freehubs don't help. (There isn't room for the axle inside a normal, reliable freehub body either.)

Its all a little bit retarded to begin with, my qs motor has 15mm axle, the nut, torque arm and axle are too big, and touch derailleur ear on a frame, that is ear dropout, so its impossible to put the rear deraileur, for me seems leaf motor is the best with casette adapter

When/if I get a rear Leaf motor, I'm definitely getting the freewheel version. The right side axle is bigger, with much bigger flats for the torque arm.

With a Shimano or other reputable brand freewheel, I know I'm using a reliable piece of equipment. With some oddball proprietary freehub body that's made for a too-big axle, it's a gamble.

Thumbs up for the 1500w leaf motor cassette version. Been running mine with 11-speed road cassette (sram apex) for 3200+km now no problem. I just had to machine a 1mm groove onto the inside of the largest cog on the cassette to get it to fit on the hub with the lockring catching.

Monte said:

Thumbs up for the 1500w leaf motor cassette version. Been running mine with 11-speed road cassette (sram apex) for 3200+km now no problem. I just had to machine a 1mm groove onto the inside of the largest cog on the cassette to get it to fit on the hub with the lockring catching.

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Can you send some pictures? Do you need to make that on a mtb cassette or?

Here's the modified cassette. This is a SRAM PG-1130 Cassette (https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/cs-pg-1130-a1). There's a plastic spacer in the top picture, since I took too much material off initially. I can use all the cassettes cogs, although the largest one sometimes skips a bit since the derailleur couldn't be positioned quite close enough to the hub motor since it would hit the hub motor side plate attachment screw heads. Hope this helps!