Can I wire my ignition switch to my 5v throttle line?

My key ignition switch is only rated for 12v, so I can't connect it to the motor controller 60v signal line. Am I going to have any issues with just wiring it into the 5v throttle line to switch it on or off, or should it be okay?

I think you're fine with that. Make sure you switch the +5, or the signal, and not ground. Most ebike controllers take off if the throttle ground is interrupted.

Switching the throttle is not turning off the controller. Doesn’t it have a switching circuit? I have never seen a controller without one. Most of the time it is on the accessory 5v circuit, but sometimes (rarely) it has full battery voltage. Yet there is no significant amperage on the switching circuit, thus voltage rating of the switch is not important.

MadRhino said:

Switching the throttle is not turning off the controller. Doesn’t it have a switching circuit? I have never seen a controller without one. Most of the time it is on the accessory 5v circuit, but sometimes (rarely) it has full battery voltage. Yet there is no significant amperage on the switching circuit, thus voltage rating of the switch is not important.

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It's not turning off the controller but I think that's okay because switching off the throttle atleast makes it harder for someone to get it moving. It legitimately does not have a switching circuit. It's an 80 amp yuyangking controller. The only power "switch" is a line I have to connect directly to the positive output of the battery. A lower voltage does not work. Weirdly enough, I remember my old controller, a 40 amp yyk having a low voltage power switch for the controller, but this one doesn't. I know it's not any significant amperage, but 60v on a 12v switch sounds like a bad idea.

docw009 said:

I think you're fine with that. Make sure you switch the +5, or the signal, and not ground. Most ebike controllers take off if the throttle ground is interrupted.

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Thanks

Are you sure you don't have a separate wire from the controller to turn it on? It's been 3yr or so, but all of the YYK controllers I ordered samples of had a separate wire to turn them on, a pack voltage wire. Check with them directly if unsure and have all your controller label info handy in case you bought it from a 3rd party. My experience with them was always good customer service, though I couldn't talk directly with the tech guys as they supposedly didn't know english...Of course I was dealt with as a potential new customer needing 500 units/month quantities.

I personally don't like the idea of switching on via the throttle wiring unless a secondary hidden switch for extra security beyond the moto key switches I use on every bike. At a minimum it is a waste of energy with a 100-200ma drain, but mine if the controller is on, then so is the display, so the bike would appear to be on.

John in CR said:

Are you sure you don't have a separate wire from the controller to turn it on? It's been 3yr or so, but all of the YYK controllers I ordered samples of had a separate wire to turn them on, a pack voltage wire. Check with them directly if unsure and have all your controller label info handy in case you bought it from a 3rd party. My experience with them was always good customer service, though I couldn't talk directly with the tech guys as they supposedly didn't know english...Of course I was dealt with as a potential new customer needing 500 units/month quantities.

I personally don't like the idea of switching on via the throttle wiring unless a secondary hidden switch for extra security beyond the moto key switches I use on every bike. At a minimum it is a waste of energy with a 100-200ma drain, but mine if the controller is on, then so is the display, so the bike would appear to be on.

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Do you know what voltage that separate wire had flowing through it on your controllers? Mine does have a separate wire, but it runs the pack voltage through it, so 60v and my switch is only rated for 12v.

speedyebikenoob said:

Do you know what voltage that separate wire had flowing through it on your controllers? Mine does have a separate wire, but it runs the pack voltage through it, so 60v and my switch is only rated for 12v.

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Mine have always been at pack voltage...voltages as high as 128V fresh off the charger and the lowest about 48V. I use motorcycle key switches that are for 12V, and in 12 years none have ever had issues. The current through that switch is quite low, so not an issue.

John in CR said:

speedyebikenoob said:

Do you know what voltage that separate wire had flowing through it on your controllers? Mine does have a separate wire, but it runs the pack voltage through it, so 60v and my switch is only rated for 12v.

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Mine have always been at pack voltage...voltages as high as 128V fresh off the charger and the lowest about 48V. I use motorcycle key switches that are for 12V, and in 12 years none have ever had issues. The current through that switch is quite low, so not an issue.

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Well then, looks like I'll try it. The key switches are only $5 anyways. Thanks!

It will last. Or, if you ever need to do better, you can buy a 110v toggle switch at the hardware store and work a custom mount to your handlebar. Those simple lamp toggle switches are very robust and can survive many crashes. That is the reason I use them now.

MadRhino said:

It will last. Or, if you ever need to do better, you can buy a 110v toggle switch at the hardware store and work a custom mount to your handlebar. Those simple lamp toggle switches are very robust and can survive many crashes. That is the reason I use them now.

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We've had some trouble with common generic toggle switches that we used on several bikes running just 20 watts or so of LED lights at 12V. I think the problem is that they are made for AC and indoor use, and moisture in wet riding conditions kills them pretty quickly. I've gone to marine switches, which are water resistant and made for fairly heavy loads of DC. Most of my bikes have full lights and DC/DC converters, and those moto key switches carry that load too at pack voltage. Now I use the marine switches for that load, since my Nucular controllers don't turn on with a pack voltage wire, so my moto key switch for anti-theft protection only carries negligible current which is just a jumper to ground.

With the OP's setup, the controller caps will already be charged through the battery mains, and the key switch will only handle about 100ma with no surge of current, so it should last the life of the bike. Cheap, durable, they seem much more robust than a common ebike key switch for which I've yet to find a key making shop that carries blanks, but for the moto switches they generally do. They come with 2 keys which is nice, but if you lose the backup key, you can always get a copy made.

speedyebikenoob said:

Well then, looks like I'll try it. The key switches are only $5 anyways. Thanks!

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If you have a choice try to get one with smooth key faces on the plastic part. Then using a soldering iron you can easily etch an identifying mark. I have a bunch of different bikes, so it comes in handy for me.

For a nice tight fitting install you need a 1" hole saw, and it's best to do it in metal about 2.5mm thick (12 gauge) so the keepers click it into place. Too thick and the keepers don't click in, and too thin can have a loose fit.. You also need a rectangular file less than 1" wide, so you can file a notch at the edge of the 1" hole for the narrow raised ridge on the key switch barrel to fit into. That ridge stops the whole switch from turning when you turn the key on.

All of the key switches I've gotten have 4 wires, 2 complete a circuit with the key on, and the other 2 complete a circuit when the key is off (I guess for alarm systems.

Thank you all for the suggestions, the key switch fits perfectly and seems to work fine.

speedyebikenoob said:

Thank you all for the suggestions, the key switch fits perfectly and seems to work fine.

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