
Excellent one Mr. Chalo

Haha, he said "bicycle racing" and "experience" in the same sentence.
After my brief foray into trying tubeless, I decided that I'm too lazy to do the occasional maintenance (checking/topping off sealant, or replacing it). I think if I were to build a mid drive, then I might try it again, since I'd be going in with the understanding that there will be maintenance involved.Chalo wrote: ↑Dec 30 2020 1:08pmLots of bikes that come into the shop these days have tubeless setups. It's a giveaway for riders who don't need the bike or use it for anything important. So yes, you made the correct connection between tubeless tires and "serious bikers" (if by that you mean car drivers who have a bike instead of a video game console/RC helicopter/AR-15/stand-up paddleboard).
I have done it only once, on a motorcycle ca. 40 years ago. The other guy probably had better initial acceleration - in principle, because if I remember right he had a single cylinder, possibly 2-sroke dirt bike, and I had a Moto Guzzi police bike. In practice, the Guzzi really had pretty good pull at a range of motor speeds, but more importantly, he didn't pull the gear shifts off, and I left him way behind. With a Guzzi, 1st gear is at its best well over 20mph if I remember right.speedyebikenoob wrote: ↑Dec 30 2020 1:21pmI feel like a middrive makes the most of the 4000 watts the controller supplies. Am I right about that?
I drove a stick shift ever since I was a kid, literally. I liked having access to more performance that a comparable automatic. Probably around 40, I decided that I was lazy, and I could replace any performance shortcomings by just getting a bigger motor; so all the performance I'd ever want, and no shifting.speedyebikenoob wrote: ↑Dec 30 2020 1:21pmOkay here's the thing. I have my doubts that a hub motor on my bike running the same kind of power levels as my middrive would have been able to keep up with the car for that long. Sure, if you dump more power in the hub it'll be faster, but I feel like a middrive makes the most of the 4000 watts the controller supplies. Am I right about that?
I have ridden several motorcycles (albeit lower powered 250cc bikes in foreign countries), and none of them feel nearly as responsive or quick as my e bike in it's lower gears despite having more power. If I start my bike off in 7th gear which is geared for just under 40 mph, it feels slow and pathetic, and I'd imagine that's how a similarly powered hub would feel.
What cured me from (literally) messing with tubeless was watching my coworkers deal with theirs. No thanks; I already have an incontinent old cat to occupy that part of my life.E-HP wrote: ↑Dec 30 2020 1:31pmAfter my brief foray into trying tubeless, I decided that I'm too lazy to do the occasional maintenance (checking/topping off sealant, or replacing it). I think if I were to build a mid drive, then I might try it again, since I'd be going in with the understanding that there will be maintenance involved.![]()
Trying to shut off others does not make your speaking any better.
I've been at the workbench doing real repairs during dozens if not hundreds of tubeless "setups". All of them left nasty puddles; many of them had to be revisited because they didn't seal up on the first pass. One memorable episode spilled a liter of Orange Seal across the bench top. I refuse to do these jobs.
I don't even read here that often but I know anything about mid-drives will eventually have Chalo talking about how useless their are, despite people really not caring what a pedi-cab mechanic thinks on the topic.
That's not true at all. The only one I think is useless junk is the TSDZ2. I have bought and used the Bafang units, and I have recommended them to others. Maybe you're thinking about my criticisms of front freewheels that disassemble themselves?
I expect there are 10s of 1000s of these in circulation, particularly in China where the adult population weigh less (per person). Certainly the TSDZ2 hasn't been engineered for weighty westerners who then choose to fit them to full suspension mountain bikes and go do jumps.
The default minimum bottom bracket spindle diameter was arrived at a long time ago, when westerners were not as weighty, and jumping bicycles wasn't a thing.Michael B wrote: ↑Jan 01 2021 6:44pmI expect there are 10s of 1000s of these in circulation, particularly in China where the adult population weigh less (per person). Certainly the TSDZ2 hasn't been engineered for weighty westerners who then choose to fit them to full suspension mountain bikes and go do jumps.
No argument here, that's a piece of junk and the BBS aren't much better offroad.Chalo wrote: ↑Jan 01 2021 12:59pmThat's not true at all. The only one I think is useless junk is the TSDZ2. I have bought and used the Bafang units, and I have recommended them to others. Maybe you're thinking about my criticisms of front freewheels that disassemble themselves?
I do sometimes remind people that using a mid drive will wear out and break their stuff, if I think they're not taking that into consideration.
MadRhino wrote: ↑Dec 28 2020 5:24pm...It can cost lots of time and money to successfully mod and tune a suspension with a heavy rear wheel. Yet proper weight distribution and geometry had never been so hard to achieve for me in over a decade building with hubs. The fact is, in a place where powerful ebikes builders are many, I never met a mid drive ebike who could compete, city or mountain.
Unsprung weight approaching sprung weight is a fundamental physics problem -- it cannot be "modded and tuned" to "make good handling".MadRhino wrote: ↑Dec 29 2020 4:49am...Unsprung weight is a problem, but can be solved with proper geometry/suspension mods and tuning, that can make a good handling up to 70-80 mph. After all, a lot of motorcycles have a rear wheel just as heavy as an ebike motor wheel...On the city streets though, a powerful hub motor ebike can compete with motorcycles advantageously.
There are plenty of locations -- mine included -- in which commuting with tubes has simply become untenable. I would have to double my allowed travel time to account for likely punctures.