Tips or Tricks

markz

100 TW
Joined
Jan 9, 2014
Messages
12,179
Location
Canada and the USA
I have a Cyclone mounting plate is on drivers side that I cant get off
English thread on Northrock XC00 fat bike from Costco made by Giant.
Cartridge fat bb
Splined tool
Wide bb for fat bike

Pictures will show the splines are fully engaged.
Tried lots and lots of oil, but maybe I need another penetrant, is there a thinner one to get into the threads?
Only other thing I can think of is to get a wood clamp to help the splines stay fully engaged as I heave it clockwise.
 

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Bigwheel said:
Try an impact driver with an adapter that fits your spline tool?

Theres the other splined bb tool with shorter splines.

I have a cheap 10" breaker bar style from Princess Auto (Canada's Harbor Freight)
I dont have any impact except a 1/4" Ryobi impact driver, and 2 normal battery drills.
The biggest problem is having the bb splined tool not slip out and mess up the splines.
Havent done the clamp idea yet, I need to find the bar clamps that slide.
I tripled check its cw to remove on ds.
I will try to soak it again in wd40, all the vids I've seen comparing different penetrants dont give a definitive winner.
 
Its cartridge, ccw is non drive side to remove, cw is drive side to remove.
Even this guy couldnt get the tool flush, but his is not rusted tight.
https://youtu.be/yBnYoYVTnlo?t=158

Italian is both right hand thread.

5 minute epoxy weld glue might be a last ditch effort.
 
Yeah I did not even think about that trick. I wonder if a normal bolt can fit, make my own tool to make it snug, threaded bar, washers and some nuts. And I need to scrounge the dump bins for a long pipe for some added leverage.

Everyone I've seen so far coming from China.

333.resized.jpeg

Manbeer said:
i use impact, but be SURE you are going the right direction, or this


B3C9BF16-2FFA-4B5C-A904-1EB8B108AAC0.png
 
This actually is working out good. I can get good seated action and the bb spline tool doesnt move out of the splined slots one way or other. The clamp can slide off easy on the smooth socket side, if the clamps bumped. Pulling bar in picture towards the camera makes it cw. I may go get some syringe needles from the drug store and try to squirt wd 40 into the crack to get at the threads.

12" clamp is a cheap one, green ones probably an offshoot of getting power fisted.

16" breaker bar and totally need some more leverage. And no working ebike to scrounge bins for a pipe. I dont feel like doing the big ass wrench trick for extra leverage.
 

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you are right, i've only seen them come from china. i thought it looked useful so i ordered a couple last week for my "oh shit" kit i keep to chase knackered threads and the like. pretty sure you could rig something up like you said though.

honestly, considering the amount of redundancy in park tools lineup i am surprised they don't have one. i can get three or four different versions of the same thing to remove a cassette lockring (Get super annoying when I'm trying to keep stock for all different customers bikes and I end up ordering a bunch of the same thing but one is a 1/2" drive, another uses a wrench, one has a small rod to go in qr axle, one has a large rod for thru axle)
 
I'd recommend Kroil Penetrant over WD-40.

And get a proper 3/8" electric impact like a Milwaukee Fuel -- you'll wonder how you ever lived without one.
 
markz 1
Bottom Bracket zero
Its a bit rusty, damn Cyclone-TW bb's. The motor was never mounted on that bike. Alberta winters.

Patience pays off, though I thought the splines were breaking off because every attempt near the end, it would slide off.
The first 5 gigantic heaves made breaker bar movement and it was screatching loud, but it felt like I was tightening it going the correct way to undo it, cw. After a heave or two the mounting plate rotated so it was loosening, but took more effort to loosen. Then couple more great heaves then added some wd40 to the backside and frontside, then a few more heaves became easier and easier.

Still don't know what the plans are for that Northrock XC00 Fat Tire Bike Coscto bike made by Giant.
All I do know is that bb is toast. Even Modern Bike doesnt have any fat forks available.

Tool splines look good
BB splines look beat up.

bb5.png




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bb2.png




bb1.png
 
Alberta winters, that is right, but
how often do you wash this road salt off your winter ride?
clean ebike is happy ebike.
here in our Calgary they really over use this salt.
do not leave ebike with salt on like this, spray with water after ride
 
edit: I see you got it off but for future reference:

Ah yes, road salt. WD40 isn't bad but you may want some stronger penetrating oil like liquid wrench, pb blaster, break free etc... and let it soak for at least a couple hours. A coating of grease would be good before installation too.
 
pwd said:
edit: I see you got it off but for future reference:

Ah yes, road salt. WD40 isn't bad but you may want some stronger penetrating oil like liquid wrench, pb blaster, break free etc... and let it soak for at least a couple hours. A coating of grease would be good before installation too.

I had previously attempted to loosen it before. I had used a gallon of penetrating oils and let it soak for days, respraying. Yeah like I said I cant remember if I installed grease onto the threads or not. If I did it would have been regular grease, and I know for a fact it would have been a lot of grease. I would have probably even added grease to the shaft for no reason, but I cant remember.


miro13car said:
Alberta winters, that is right, but
how often do you wash this road salt off your winter ride?
clean ebike is happy ebike.
here in our Calgary they really over use this salt.
do not leave ebike with salt on like this, spray with water after ride

To be honest, I wouldnt clean the bike a lot. I should get into the habit of cleaning and greasing my bike on a regular basis and more so in the winter. One thing I do remember is when I took the operating Cyclone off my Townie Electra 21D with 68?mm bb width (the very common bb shell width), there was the same problem of the threads sticking. Yes, I drenched the threads in grease. The problem with the Townie installation is the threaded insert liner wouldnt come out so I used a big pipe wrench which ended up crushing the threaded liner but I was able to get it out. The same mounting plates on the fat bike did not properly fit for the wider bb width. I remember it clearly because it was a new bike for me, used, and I thought I screwed up the bike.

What might do the trick is a good quality anti seize
Permatex® Silver Grade Anti-Seize 133H, 113-g

Much more expensive per gram - Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant, 4-g - Picture has a spark plug, but the labeling says for easy assembly and disassembly of threaded parts.

Then theres copper and nickel anti-aeize.

Townie Electra 21D - Threaded liner with locking nuts
111.jpeg
 
goatman said:
wheres the build thread?

No pictures, though I guess I could snap some tonight when I head out for the midnight spin to the corner store.




Need to get some thick heat shrink for the phase wires fraying at the axle.

Dual Wall Melt Liner - https://www.be-electronics.com/category_s/2334.htm?searching=Y&sort=2&cat=2334&show=90&page=1
POLYMER DYNAMICS 3/8" 4:1 BLACK HEAT SHRINK (4FT) 8372 WITH DUAL WALL/MELT LINER, VOLTAGE: 600V
Price CAD : $5.40 /Length

Melt Wall - https://www.be-electronics.com/category_s/2333.htm?searching=Y&sort=2&cat=2333&show=90&page=1
LG 3:1 BLACK HEAT SHRINK TUBING 3/8" (4FT) 3635W3/8 WITH DUAL WALL/MELT LINER, VOLTAGE:600V
Price CAD : $4.49 /Length

I used to always buy this stuff but its not that thick.
https://www.be-electronics.com/category_s/1987.htm?searching=Y&sort=2&cat=1987&show=90&page=1
 
Rear hub motor on the front with 26x2 on Alex DM24, with no freewheel.
Rear is stock 26x4 to be switched for the red vee tire which is 26x3 as seen in pics.
Of note the stock 26x4 is quite loud with its designed tread.
Hub needs to be switched around to line up disc brake. I rushed putting it on, more focused on properly using gorilla tape on damaged phase wires out of axle, and t.a. fitment.

Also on the plans
- 5" riser handlebars black. - https://www.modernbike.com/sunlite-5-riser-bar-31.8
^Might go BMX handlebars, more handlebar real estate.

- Keep the cheap thumb Shimano TX shifter.
No need to change it, plus it fits nicely with the brake lever and thumb throttle.

- Lower crank gear to 38

- 11-36 rear gears

- Wrap the frame in black electrical tape, orange is to flashy.

- Longer handlebar stem might be needed but I will see once I get the riser handlebar because that can always be rotated outward.

- 21x1.40 front rim with 21x2.50-3.00 tire which I hope equals the total height of 26x3 Vee tire rear

Of note the total height difference of the wheel and tire between the 26x4 and and 26x2 is 3"
The difference in height between my Trek 700x45C and 26x4 is 0.25-0.50" inches 700 being smaller.

Need to get my hands on and measure a 21x1.40 motorcycle rim.
Then figure out Duro/Mitas 21x2.75 tire.
Neat website below says 26.67 but doesnt seem right.
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/tirediamcalc.html
Mitas E09 - 21 front 80/90 (2.50-2.75) - https://www.kimpex.com/en-ca/products/motorcycle/tires-wheels/motorcycle-tires/mitas-e09-enduro-trail-tire?sku=354046&keyword=mitas%20e09
80/100-21 is 3.00-3.25 pegs it at 27.3




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Rode with the second battery on top of the top bar. Wasnt the nicest feeling having that between the crotch. The shifter feels odd, its easy to push it up but takes effort to push it back. Will go back to rapid fire shifters. The 52V 40A 15Ah battery is pretty good going up hills with the 40A controller now that I have gearing to use.




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I found a very interesting link in regards to motorcycle rims and tires.
https://ridewrightwheels.com/pages/motorcycle-tire-wheel-fitment-chart
Waaaay way down at the bottom
Some of the motorcycle tires have a lettering designation. The millimeter(mm) equivalent for it: MH - 80mm, MJ - 90mm, MM - 100mm, MN - 110mm, MP - 110mm, MR - 120mm, MT - 130mm, MU - 140mm, MV - 150mm

Fo example MU90-16 - 140mm wide, 90% profile, 16" rim To convert from millimeters to inches divide by 25.4 (1"=25.4mm)

Correct rim width may be critical to handling and stability. A tire which is installed on a wider than recommended rim will have a "flattened" profile, and a rider may easily reach the edge of the tread during cornering. A narrow rim will alter the tire profile, with a smaller contact patch during braking. Fitment to these rims may result in slippage or air loss. And roughly each additional 0.5" of rim width will be approximately 0.25" more in each tire width

Tire Diameter Calculation ( Just for information ) Most of the bikers will want to know a tire diameter (measured in inches). This formula is a quick way to get the tire diameter of those metric tires that are common on just about everything stock. For example a 200/55R18 would be around 26.7 inches tall and 7.9 (200mm/25.4) inches wide. Enter any three of the numbers into this formula to solve for the fourth. "R" means Radial and "B" means Bias tire. The bigger number (on the left) is the Section Width in millimeters (1"=25.4mm). The number to the right of the slash ("/") is the Aspect Ratio (percent of width). The "R" means Radial tire and the last number, far right, is the rim diameter in inches.

Tire Diameter = Rim Diameter + (2 x Aspect Ratio x Section Width) / 25.4

Example (200/55R18 tire): Tire Diameter = 18 + (2 x 0.55 x 200) / 25.4 = 26.7 in

----------------------
Calculator is https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/tirediamcalc.html
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Mitas E09 is 80/90-21
((2x80x0.9)/25.4)+21=26.7" tall tire.
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80/100-21 is 27.3" tall
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23" motorcycle rims are 3" wide.


I might as well add the charts in screen shot.
3 pics for front


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I hope my local motorcycle junk yard has something available.
Good news is I see a 23x1.60 wheel. 1.60 good for 2.25 to 3.10 tire.
Now I need to find if tires are readily available and what size and what price. Kimpex dont sell no 23"
Bridgestone Trail Wing TW9 Motorcycle Tire 3.00-23 for $81usd.
Front Trail Wing 9 3.00-23 Tire - 142948
Shinko 777 Heavy Duty Cruiser Tire 130/60-23 is 29.14" tall but very wide.
Avon Cobra Chrome AV91 Front Motorcycle Tire 130/60R-23 (65V) Black Wall



This info came from an ebay search.
HONDA 78 XL250 FRONT 23"
I counted 36H
https://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Honda_XL250
Front Tire 3.00-23
Rear Tire 4.60-18
Alright so 3" wide tire means..... 1.60, 1.85, 2.15 rim width, 1.85 being standard.
Which means I can go down to 2.75" wide tire if I wanted to on a 1.85 rim.
https://www.blogotive.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Motorcycle-Wheel-Rim-Width-for-Tires-Size.pdf

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Scratch all that, went down the internet worm hole again.



Schwalbe Tough Tom MTB Tyre 29x2.60
Average protection, average durability
https://www.schwalbe.com/en/mtb-reader/tough-tom

Sun Ringle MTX-33 29" Disc Rim, 36h - Black
internal/external: 26/33mm
ERD: 597mm
Internal Width of 26mm is good for 2.5-2.7
https://www.lightbicycle.com/newsletter/tire-size-chart-for-bicycle-rim.html

^^^^^^^^^^^^Blank 192mm spokes

Other rim options are to narrow in width for a fat tire 2.5+
Sun Ringle CR-18 Disc Rim (Polished) (29") (36H) (Presta) - 612mm ERD, Internal Width 18mm
Sun Ringle Rhyno Lite Rim (Black/Silver) (29") (36H) (Presta) - 611mm ERD, Internal Width 22mm good for 2.30 tire.

SE Bikes J24SG 29" Rim, 36H, NMSW, Black - 604mm ERD, Internal Width 24mm good for 2.40 tire.
 
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