Which wires do I connect to this battery

Sloth

1 µW
Joined
Jun 21, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Controller has 3 wires and the battery has 3 prong thingies. I tried to determine the positive and negative on the battery using a voltmeter but got a spark so I don't want to hook up the controller unless I know how for sure which is + and - and still there is one thin red wire that hooks to which prong? Thanks for the help

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If you got a spark, you probably accidentally crossed the probes or your meter wasn't on DC voltage setting etc, but it's shouldn't do that normally. It prob didn't hurt anything though.

Lots of times the third prong isn't wired up inside the battery. It's just a common plug they use for lots of equipment, and the third one is used when you need grounding.

The skinny red one is for a key switch, so if not using one is just wired together with battery positive, but it doesn't hook to the third prong either way.

If trying again with the meter doesn't seem like a good idea, you could maybe unscrew the plug out of the battery and pull it out far enough to see the wire colors.
 
Great idea I will do that. The two little screws and see what's behind there. And the battery itself has a key to turn it on is why I was thinking the skinny red wire connects to one of those prongs. I'll check it out further and hook it up to the positive thanks.
 
Did you buy the battery new? I think it should have come with a three prong connector with red and black wires to connect to the controller, at least that's what it looks like on the ads selling that type of battery:
SUN-EBIKE-48V-12AH-Li-ion-Lithium-Battery-Aluminum-Case-Fish-BMS-3A-Charger-Rechargeable-use-for-250w-350w-500w-ebike-Motorcycle-0-7-500x375.jpg
 
I forget now if it come with a battery connection wire. I bought it back in 2016 and I knew the + & - initially and wrote it down and hooked up a computer 🖥 PC cable which worked until my hall sensors kept burning out so I grabbed a new cheapie controller to test out sensor vs sensorless mode but notice it has 3 wires instead of 2 like the original more expensive controller. Anyways I popped it open and see now the middle prong is indeed empty (no wire attached) then I also notice my battery plug is mounted upside down unlike the pictures I originally attached so I'm documenting how my battery looks if om holding it by the battery handle in front of me. I hope this controller gets the bike working again.. I'm tired of opening up the hub soldering new sensors every day.. Else I'll junk the bike and get an El cheapo Hyper E ride from Walmart to bomb around with in the meantime.
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It works. I hooked the thin red to the fat Red wire on the controller and to the positive + battery terminal. And fat black wire to negative - terminal on the battery. Plugged in the new rear motor with the throttle attached and she's spinning. So I remember I bought this new controller because it said it works without Hall's and sure enough I disconnect the hall sensor wires and it works.

So I for hell of it tried my old bad wheel motor with the burning out halls and it works perfect. No vibration stuttering. Phenomenal. Thanks for the help.

Only thing now is I wish the new controller had a PAS hookup. Think I'll search for one next as I don't like using throttle all the time.
 
Sloth said:
It works.

Only thing now is I wish the new controller had a PAS hookup. Think I'll search for one next as I don't like using throttle all the time.

Great, now ride that thing!!! PAS is a future upgrade, now that you have the bike working. :eek:
 
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