Cleaning inside of motors
- Thread starter ebike11
- Start date
Chalo
100 TW
I'd use rubbing alcohol on a soft cloth. If it doesn't need cleaning, it's fine to leave it alone. I would not remove the stator unless there were a good reason to do so. It's easy to hurt the hub motor or yourself while getting the stator out and back in.
Eastwood
100 kW
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2021
- Messages
- 1,479
As chalo said it shouldn’t need any cleaning. If you’re just adding FF then you could simply remove one side. The other alternative is drilling a small pilot hole but you have to be extremely careful to not get metal shavings inside the motor. Also this depends on the skill level of someone using a handrill as well, you definitely don’t want to full blast trigger pull as you’re getting close to breaking through the back side of the plate. Justin has a good video of how to do this. I used a vacuum hose and taped it on the motor turned upside down while drilling the hole to ensure all the metal shavings were sucked away from the motor.
Some people are critical of this method but if you put the hole in the right spot and you’re careful, it’s so much easier solution for the same results. If you do decide to remove the cover then you will have to scrape the old glue off and reapply new Sealant.
https://youtu.be/JZU-mhlNcqE
Some people are critical of this method but if you put the hole in the right spot and you’re careful, it’s so much easier solution for the same results. If you do decide to remove the cover then you will have to scrape the old glue off and reapply new Sealant.
https://youtu.be/JZU-mhlNcqE
MadRhino
100 GW
I never do that, even with big motors that last 20,000 miles. I hardly clean them outside. Maintenance is doing consistently the things that need to be done before they cause problems. Doing things that are not required is obsessive care, typical of those that prefer tempering than riding, or have no life apart of their bike. 
markz
100 TW
I saw a host on Power Nation TV Show and Youtube channel drill a larger hole into an already drilled hole on the engine block, on a freshly built engine to install a different style gauge, he used lots of heavy grease on the drill bit and inside the hole.
If you do take off the cover plate to install the Ferrofluid, you should mark the cover plate/ring so it goes on the same way its taken off.
If you do take off the cover plate to install the Ferrofluid, you should mark the cover plate/ring so it goes on the same way its taken off.
ZeroEm
1 MW
Don't lose any shims or cut your fingers off.
MadRhino
100 GW
ebike11 said:
Are you overheating a QS205h50 ?
How heavy, how steep ?
I feed them 20-25 kw accelerations day after day for years, ride them in the mountain trails all weather. Never opened one unless it was needing new bearings, and I cleaned only the bearings seats then.
MadRhino
100 GW
You got this wrong if you think power can be pushed in a motor. The motor does pull current according to the resistance that it has to fight. You decide only the limit that your controller will allow it to pull. Give it full throttle accelerating from a standstill up a hill, and it could pull very high current for a second, if your controller is allowing it to. As soon as it does get to some speed the power demand goes down very quick. The saturation point of this motor is about 30 kw, meaning it could fry instantly if you allow it that much when it has a strong enough resistance to fight against. Even if you allow feeding 50 kw it will never pull that much. It will fry if you place it in a situation that make it pull close to its saturation point.Eastwood said:
The other way to fry a motor is to run it at inefficient speed while giving it hard work to do, then it does make more heat that it can dissipate, accumulating heat until frying its windings: because the bike had been built wrong for the task. If you build a fast bike and make it work a tractor’s job pulling 500 lbs uphill at 5 mph, you are killing it because you had built the wrong bike for the job. The faster the bike, the faster it will need to ride before reaching its efficient operation. A slow bike can be efficient and run cool at 5 mph. It is as simple as that. The solution to have control over the efficient speed of the bike, is a set of gears. Then it can be efficient riding slow or fast, as long as it is on the proper reduction gear.
Cooling is a solution for inefficient operation. When you power a bicycle with a 30 lbs motor, you shouldn’t need cooling unless you had built it very wrong for the job you’re giving it.
Eastwood
100 kW
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2021
- Messages
- 1,479
MadRhino said:
No I don’t have this wrong my friend it was just the way I asked the question. completely understand voltage is what pushes amps. I don’t believe a motor just magically pulls current without a controller pushing it. I figured you would understand what I was asking when I used the word "pull”
I didn’t mean literally pull :lol:
So that’s good to know around 30 kW is the saturation point :wink:
DogDipstick
100 kW
MadRhino said:
Quick off topic but do ya have that bearing part number orrhand? My bearings are getting play. Clunkthunk. Can wobble the rear wheel at least 1/8-3/16 inch. Its distinctly the bearings. Grease probally washed out when water got in.
MadRhino
100 GW
DogDipstick said:
Stop riding it. I’ve made that mistake once, to postpone a bearings replacement, and I fried the motor. Bearings are available locally, you can even have them delivered in an hour from an autoparts shop. Bearing shops will have a variety to match. Its been too long ago to remember the ones that I purchased, but you order them by dimensions: in, out, width. Then you will have the choice of type, shield, rolling clearance, type of grease, heat resistance... I chose better ones, but the originals were good quality. They are not always the same by the way. They change sometimes with motor year of production, probably because of availability but maybe to improve IDK.
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