Statorade Flush?
- Thread starter gobi
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gobi said:
I haven't noticed any decrease in effectiveness. The carrier fluid helps distribute the iron particles when you add it initially, but I dont' think they move around away from the magnets after that, so not sure if the fluid has a purpose after that. i guess if I notice the motor heating up faster, I may revisit it.
Eastwood
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I would simply just add more, That’s what Justin recommends is just adding more overtime. Also considering if your hub is not sealed 100% at the side plate covers it’s going to leak overtime. Not that you can seal a hub motor 100% but you can at least seal it at the side covers to prevent ferrofluid from seeping out.
Eastwood said:
Makes sense, the 1 year thing confused me, I am envisioning dried up crusty Satorade that I might have to chisel out :lol:
I am not sure if the side plates are seals, thanks for the tip, I will seal it with silicone take apart and reseal em.
Eastwood
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gobi said:
If you planned on opening the motor anyway then go for it. If not you can just drill a really small hole. You have to be extremely careful to not plunge the drillbit inside the motor when it breaks through the backside of the side plate cover. I used a shop vac and gorilla taped it around the spot I was drilling to suck out any pieces of metal as that’s the other concern. If it’s done properly it’s super simple to make a little tap hole, then cover it with electrical tape.
Also with this method you can easily add more and you don’t have to worry about pulling the side plate covers off. In my opinion anytime removing the side plate covers risk damaging the bearings. So anytime I open a hub I just change the seals and bearings. Don’t like the linear pulling force on the bearings when you have to remove the side plate covers. Those bearings sometimes are really stuck on the axle and the force is pulling the two housings in opposite directions, it can’t be good. Then if your motor has seals these are easily damaged with sliding the covers off along the axle. Especially when you get near the axle threads.
https://youtu.be/JZU-mhlNcqE
Eastwood
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Or you can add some drain bolts like this which serves two purposes. You can vent the motor when needed to let the moisture out. Then you can conveniently add ferrofluid when needed. But this method obviously requires pulling the side plate covers off.
Attachments
Nice, shiny, unscratched hub motor cover plates makes me jealous.
One day I will hold again in my hands, either new front Leaf or a new front generic ebay.
Its been proven that the heating and cooling cycle does allow moisture to wick up through the wires, so that could be where the Statorade Ferrofluid seeped into a bit, I dont remember reading that but its a laymans consensus
How much is the ff splashed about then magnetically stuck in place, who knows.
One day I will hold again in my hands, either new front Leaf or a new front generic ebay.
Its been proven that the heating and cooling cycle does allow moisture to wick up through the wires, so that could be where the Statorade Ferrofluid seeped into a bit, I dont remember reading that but its a laymans consensus
How much is the ff splashed about then magnetically stuck in place, who knows.
Eastwood
100 kW
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Just make sure the varnish is completely 100% cured before adding F/F. In my case I allowed the motor to dry for about three weeks before reassembling and that was also baking it. Once I reassembled I didn’t add ferrofluid until about a month later because I could actually smell the varnish curing when I would get done riding and I open the vent holes. Once that smell went away I then added the ferrofluid.
Also I would recommend the clear varnish I used since it’s resistant to abrasion which the ferrofluid is going to have some type of abrasion on the varnished surface. I’ve heard people that had issues with the orange version flaking off but I don’t know if they prepped the motor right or all the details but I have heard bad feedback from the traditional orange motor varnish
Lastly just remember it’s a very tedious project applying this varnish it really leads to one thing to another so just be prepared for about a month of slow work. It’s so worth it when done right though! I’m hoping and praying my varnish doesn’t chip 8)
Also I would recommend the clear varnish I used since it’s resistant to abrasion which the ferrofluid is going to have some type of abrasion on the varnished surface. I’ve heard people that had issues with the orange version flaking off but I don’t know if they prepped the motor right or all the details but I have heard bad feedback from the traditional orange motor varnish
Lastly just remember it’s a very tedious project applying this varnish it really leads to one thing to another so just be prepared for about a month of slow work. It’s so worth it when done right though! I’m hoping and praying my varnish doesn’t chip 8)
Eastwood said:
Slow is my middle name, gobi-slow-nator
yeah i will probably start the project around Turkey day and be done by March ish,
I have 3 DD hubs now, 2 QS 212 35s and 1 generic 9C.
The generic 9C will be first to try my hand at this, and I will probably bake this to cure it.
I can leave it inside my truck and the heat will bake it,
I see doctorbass baked his.
so the vanish does not CURE hard? if it chips off then we have issues.
ANYONE have a pic of the inside of a hub that was rust proof varnished and then used a bit? I am curious how it looks.
FYI: I am a salt water fisherman and I use a light coating of marine grease to prevent rust/scaling on any exposed metal parts.
Varnish over time, how does it fare?
I was curious, I found this youtube video which show a motor with lots of miles on it and the varnish looks GREAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT,
wow can't believe it.
check it out, no flaking that I can see.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Xslq4MFxzo
I was curious, I found this youtube video which show a motor with lots of miles on it and the varnish looks GREAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT,
wow can't believe it.
check it out, no flaking that I can see.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Xslq4MFxzo
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