Post your DRAG RACE ebike run !!

Doctorbass

100 GW
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Apr 8, 2007
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Location
Quebec, Canada East
I thought it would be nice to begin a thread like this :mrgreen:

I just hope i'm not the only one to really enjoy drag racing my ebike!!

Last year on 3 may 2009 i tried first time my Mongoose setup and did in the 25sec at 67km/h

Time slip:
- recorded 67.9km/h (1/4mile)
-reaction: 1.064
-60FT: 3.032sec
-1/8 mile 14.385sec at 66.8kph
-1/4 mile time 25.093sec at 67.9sec
- head wind of 46 km/h TOO HIGH !



:mrgreen:

Then.. with my drag race ebike (june 2009) i did i the high 20sec and 57MPH


NOW LET SEE SOME IMPROVEMENT ! :mrgreen: :twisted:


BUT Today!! with a big fatty tire ebike NOT BUILT FOR THINGS LIKE DRAG RACE, I did in the high 19sec !!!

Recorded speed at the 1/4 mile line: 61.3MPH with 76A current limit on the controller.

first run:
top speed at 1/4 mile line: 61.32MPH
top speed at end of the lane: 65MPH
0-60 ft: 2.794sec
1/4 mile time: 19.935sec
reaction time: 1.219sec
conditions: charged to 4.15 per lipo cell, motor at 32 celsius


2nd run:
top speed at 1/4 mile line: 61.19MPH
top speed at end of the lane: 64MPH
0-60 ft: 2.585sec
1/4 mile time: 19.875 sec
reaction time: 0.801sec
conditions: charged to 4.10 per lipo cell motor at 56 celsius


3rd run:
top speed at 1/4 mile line: 60.46MPH
top speed at end of the lane: not recorded
0-60 ft: 2.627
1/4 mile time: 19.930 sec
reaction time: 0.615
conditions: not recharged since 2nd run, motor at 67 celsius


Here are my 3 time slip from yesterday

and you?? :mrgreen:




Doc
 

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Right on Doc! :)

Give me the weight of rider+machine, and I will calculate some things for you.
 
Awesome Doc. 2.5 sec. 60 ft. is damn good. And you got to .060 reaction time :mrgreen: Sure can tell that thing is all in by 1/8th mi. Not much speed gain after that . You could be taking kids money bracket racing that. It is so consistent..
 
Since you're running solo (so it won't bother anyone) request a "pro-tree" when you're rolling up to stage. You only have to request it once (generally) and the starter will remember. I just means he hits a different button on his starter when he starts you. The pro-tree flashes all yellows at once, then 0.4sec later, green. This means on yellow, you just explode, no count-down light BS.

Also, since you're running by yourself, deep-stage the piss out of it. It's really easy to do on a bike (because your feet can control position with precise control). This means, when staging, roll forward till the first stage lights, and the second stage lights, then KEEP rolling forward until the first light turns-off. The beam to actually count time is slightly ahead of the staging light beams, so as long as the second light doesn't turn-off, you're golden. :) If you start red-lighting though, then go back to a standard stage.

Things with rear suspension always take a little longer to react than hard-tails, so if you're not red-lighting leaving on yellow with a pro-tree, crank that rear shock setting up as firm as it can go.
 
Hey Doc,
Are you doing any pedaling or a push off with your feet on the launch? I don't have nearly the acceleration that you do, but human assist makes a huge difference on my bike. That first revolution or two of the tire are at such low rpm that the motor is horribly inefficient that some kind of help with your legs is sure to shave off some time.
 
liveforphysics said:
Since you're running solo (so it won't bother anyone) request a "pro-tree" when you're rolling up to stage. You only have to request it once (generally) and the starter will remember. I just means he hits a different button on his starter when he starts you. The pro-tree flashes all yellows at once, then 0.4sec later, green. This means on yellow, you just explode, no count-down light BS.

Also, since you're running by yourself, deep-stage the piss out of it. It's really easy to do on a bike (because your feet can control position with precise control). This means, when staging, roll forward till the first stage lights, and the second stage lights, then KEEP rolling forward until the first light turns-off. The beam to actually count time is slightly ahead of the staging light beams, so as long as the second light doesn't turn-off, you're golden. :) If you start red-lighting though, then go back to a standard stage.

Things with rear suspension always take a little longer to react than hard-tails, so if you're not red-lighting leaving on yellow with a pro-tree, crank that rear shock setting up as firm as it can go.

Alright LFP, Thanks for these advices!!

I did not know that i can still go a bit forward and turn off the first yellow light and just keep the last light for the positioning..

i'll also try to stiff my rear sustension.. i'll put a rubber tube on the piston rod :mrgreen:

After the wind resistance and rolling resistance solved, it will only be a question of MAX CURRENT !!!

Steveo or Lyen .. I might ask you a 36 Fets controller if you can!! :twisted:

With some dry ice evaporation blown with a twin turbine fan into the motor i could lower the resistance of the winding too...

May other tuning to do!!.. Nice!!

Doc
 
John in CR said:
Hey Doc,
Are you doing any pedaling or a push off with your feet on the launch? I don't have nearly the acceleration that you do, but human assist makes a huge difference on my bike. That first revolution or two of the tire are at such low rpm that the motor is horribly inefficient that some kind of help with your legs is sure to shave off some time.

Yes, i now push on the pedal for the first 0-30kmh.. it make a big difference on the 0-60 ft it's a 7 speed casette that i use the 2nd big gear.. The only thing is that pedaling while appl;ying thew throttle is very difficult to control and the handling of the ebike is not easy!

Doc
 
reading on the NEDRA time bracket, my ranking is good i see!

Doc
 
Rather than dry-ice, borrow a CO2 tank from a soda machine. Have a hole drilled in the controller end plate, and motor side cover. Crack that CO2 tank valve open in the motor for a couple seconds to deep freeze it, then do the controller, stage, and run. :) Should enable you to run a pretty large increase in current limit :) But! If you're all ready past the tooth saturation point for the motor, it could be a lot of extra hassle for minimal returns.
 
Doctorbass said:
John in CR said:
Hey Doc,
Are you doing any pedaling or a push off with your feet on the launch? I don't have nearly the acceleration that you do, but human assist makes a huge difference on my bike. That first revolution or two of the tire are at such low rpm that the motor is horribly inefficient that some kind of help with your legs is sure to shave off some time.

Yes, i now push on the pedal for the first 0-30kmh.. it make a big difference on the 0-60 ft it's a 7 speed casette that i use the 2nd big gear.. The only thing is that pedaling while appl;ying thew throttle is very difficult to control and the handling of the ebike is not easy!

Doc

Who said race riding was supposed to be easy? Drag racing sounds like a job for the A123's I've been collecting now that I finally have a balance charger to use them. :idea: If I let my daughter do the ride, then I think my bike may have a chance. No rule against girls is there? LOL
 
liveforphysics said:
Rather than dry-ice, borrow a CO2 tank from a soda machine. Have a hole drilled in the controller end plate, and motor side cover. Crack that CO2 tank valve open in the motor for a couple seconds to deep freeze it, then do the controller, stage, and run. :) Should enable you to run a pretty large increase in current limit :) But! If you're all ready past the tooth saturation point for the motor, it could be a lot of extra hassle for minimal returns.

yes, that famous motor saturation point!!

one thing i noted with all my past experience: NEVER abuse a controller when it is cold and on a fresh charged battery!!!

i HAD SOME ISSUE WITH CONTROLLER THAT BLOW FOR NOTHING AT THE FIRST THROTTLE TWIST.!! Now i always let the controller to warm a but before going WOT.

another good trick i have is to remove the fresh charge volts from the battery to let it drop to the stable point and then i add another little pack in serie( like 1 or 2s) to rise the voltage to 100V without any fresh charge.. so the voltage is maximized and the controller dont see too high voltage even though i drive 25 or 26s lipo..... that help for the top speed...

CO2 is a good idea too.

Doc
 
Ypedal said:
I think it would be hard to keep the bike from flipping you over lol.. no drag strip in moncton.. i'd have to go out of town... hmm.... i might actually be able to do this...... no competition to your times tho, but would still be fun to compare times.

Great!.. But wait a minute!! :?:

If you plan on using your Agni.. then I GIVE UP !!!! :lol:

Doc
 
John in CR said:
Doctorbass said:
John in CR said:
Hey Doc,
Are you doing any pedaling or a push off with your feet on the launch? I don't have nearly the acceleration that you do, but human assist makes a huge difference on my bike. That first revolution or two of the tire are at such low rpm that the motor is horribly inefficient that some kind of help with your legs is sure to shave off some time.

Yes, i now push on the pedal for the first 0-30kmh.. it make a big difference on the 0-60 ft it's a 7 speed casette that i use the 2nd big gear.. The only thing is that pedaling while appl;ying thew throttle is very difficult to control and the handling of the ebike is not easy!

Doc
No rule against girls is there? LOL

no prob!!! :mrgreen:

It is us that are the pioneer of the electric bicycle drag race so i guess it's us that make the rules !!! :twisted:

Doc

Doc
 
Ok. Did pretty good! That 408 hauls butt.
 
D-Man said:
Ok. Did pretty good! That 408 hauls butt.


D-Man, How can you hit 92MPH with... a... 408 ???? :?

and 2.2sec 0-60ft would require incredible power into it!!

It's certainly with a car!!!.. not an ebike!

so what does mean the 408 ?

Doc
 
Doctorbass said:
and 2.2sec 0-60ft would require incredible power into it.


Doc


If you ever make it to Seattle, I will give you a taste of what a 1.5sec 60ft feels like. :)
 
liveforphysics said:
Doctorbass said:
and 2.2sec 0-60ft would require incredible power into it.


Doc


If you ever make it to Seattle, I will give you a taste of what a 1.5sec 60ft feels like. :)

About Electric bike ... or super turbo civic? :lol:
 
Doctorbass said:
liveforphysics said:
Doctorbass said:
and 2.2sec 0-60ft would require incredible power into it.


Doc


If you ever make it to Seattle, I will give you a taste of what a 1.5sec 60ft feels like. :)

About Electric bike ... or super turbo civic? :lol:


No turbo! Just a innocent looking little white Civic. ;)

That Integra you've got could also become a very very fast car. ;) For about $2,000, you could swap your LS block out for a B20 block with high compression pistons, and stick a B16a or B18c cylinder head on there with some good cams, a cheapy ebay header and intake manifold, and a DIY eprom chipped ECU for tuning, and you would have a car capable of running high 13s (likely need some better tires though). And get better fuel economy! :) :) :)
 
liveforphysics said:
That Integra you've got could also become a very very fast car. ;) For about $2,000, you could swap your LS block out for a B20 block with high compression pistons, and stick a B16a or B18c cylinder head on there with some good cams, a cheapy ebay header and intake manifold, and a DIY eprom chipped ECU for tuning, and you would have a car capable of running high 13s (likely need some better tires though). And get better fuel economy! :) :) :)

Yeah.. My integra.. I really like it but if i leave it stock it's because i dont like ICE... I preffer spending money on any EV i can...

That integra will probably be converted in EV on eday.. I hope.. The cd coefficient is really nice and i have alot of room for lithium inside... and a goos 150kW brushless motor!

maybe in my dream.. maybe not!.. :wink:

Doc
 
Yeah Doc!!!!!! Dont Like ICE!! Dont Like ICE!! Dont Like ICE! Dont Like ICE!!!

surprised you even have a car Doc, and LPF, shame on you for not having the first nano powered civic in the works!!!!

hehehe,

mike
 
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