I'm looking to electrify a bike with a drop bar and am trying to figure out how to get a throttle on. I have a twist thottle with 3 battery level indicators at the moment (elation/cyclone type) but can't see how it will work with the drop bar. Is there another type of throttle easily available that would work?
Throttle on drop bar
- Thread starter ruds23
- Start date
I'm assuming that your twist throttle won't slide far enough onto the bar end? I'll also assume that you have a "full" twist throttle? If this is the case, then consider using a " full twist" throttle that doesn't incorporate the battery charge level indicators within the throttle housing. Otherwise, consider using a minimalist "half twist" throttle with a cut down "non twist" end. You might even be able to "modify" your "full twist" unit into a "half twist" that will fit your bars.
Kingfish
100 MW
What about a 1/2 Thumb Throttle? I don't own one, but seems to me that you might be able to snug one up high enough for a palm rest and thumb-actuation. I have a similar concern about how to mount a throttle on aero bars which would be indispensible for cross-country trekking. 
~KF
~KF
adrian_sm
1 MW
This is something I am quite interested in too. Here is what I have found so far.
Adried's method of mounting a thumb throttle on road drop bars
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=22187&start=225#p347145
and some extra pics here
Simple button throttle. Just an on off switch, so probably only good for low power bikes.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=22187&start=450#p363868
Idea of a repurposed trigger throttle, from an RC car remote.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forum...22187&p=349219&hilit=trigger+throttle#p348427
And I am not sure how to mount this to road bars, but I love this trigger throttle from a scooter
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8026&hilit=bladez+throttle#p121455
JennyB's weird handlebars, just for something different.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=21052&p=306601&hilit=touring+bars#p306601
Plus obviously if you had flat bars, you can go for a standard twist or thumb throttle.
Personally I like half twist throttles on the left, so my right hand can do the front brake, and rear gear shifting duties.
Hope that helps.
- Adrian
Adried's method of mounting a thumb throttle on road drop bars
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=22187&start=225#p347145
and some extra pics here
Simple button throttle. Just an on off switch, so probably only good for low power bikes.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=22187&start=450#p363868
Idea of a repurposed trigger throttle, from an RC car remote.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forum...22187&p=349219&hilit=trigger+throttle#p348427
And I am not sure how to mount this to road bars, but I love this trigger throttle from a scooter
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8026&hilit=bladez+throttle#p121455
JennyB's weird handlebars, just for something different.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=21052&p=306601&hilit=touring+bars#p306601
Plus obviously if you had flat bars, you can go for a standard twist or thumb throttle.
Personally I like half twist throttles on the left, so my right hand can do the front brake, and rear gear shifting duties.
Hope that helps.
- Adrian
adrian_sm
1 MW
It looks like a cheap hall sensor thumb throttle to me. No idea what your elation/cyclone controller needs. But found a post that might help you sort it out.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12441#p193392
If not do a bit of googling, and you should find something.
Cheers,
- Adrian
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12441#p193392
If not do a bit of googling, and you should find something.
Cheers,
- Adrian
JennyB
1 kW
See also Zoot Katz's EBII on this thread.
My own "weird bars" have evolved somewhat.
The previous brake position was great for changing gears at speed when unassisted, but I found I was now using the gears a lot less, and the throttle position was awkward. I got rid of the front derailleur and replaced the crankset with a single ring on a nice old Sugino AT. Moving the levers back makes braking easier from the rearmost hand position, and I can still reach them quickly from elsewhere. The throttle is the standard Mini Might one, mounted so that the lever moves out and down. Depending on my hand position, it is held open by forefinger, thumb, wrist or forearm.
My own "weird bars" have evolved somewhat.
The previous brake position was great for changing gears at speed when unassisted, but I found I was now using the gears a lot less, and the throttle position was awkward. I got rid of the front derailleur and replaced the crankset with a single ring on a nice old Sugino AT. Moving the levers back makes braking easier from the rearmost hand position, and I can still reach them quickly from elsewhere. The throttle is the standard Mini Might one, mounted so that the lever moves out and down. Depending on my hand position, it is held open by forefinger, thumb, wrist or forearm.
adrian_sm
1 MW
JennyB said:
Sorry that did sound a bit negative. How about weird and wonderful.
I love them, but had never seen the style before so they stuck in my head.
wheelyphased
1 mW
Another solution for drop bars. Buy one of these for <20 bucks https://www.ebay.com/itm/GUB-202-Ca...ht-Lamp-Com-/162483555950?hash=item25d4c64e6e. It's really well made with CNC clamps & stainless screws and lightweight.
Fit a right thumb throttle so it tucks under the PAS button pad & mount it so the throttle is accessible from both the drops and the hoods. PAS is usable with a flexible left thumb. Why bother with drop bars? Yes, that's 364Wh for 100km. Plus it's a handlebar clutterers dream
Fit a right thumb throttle so it tucks under the PAS button pad & mount it so the throttle is accessible from both the drops and the hoods. PAS is usable with a flexible left thumb. Why bother with drop bars? Yes, that's 364Wh for 100km. Plus it's a handlebar clutterers dream
Attachments
"Cruise control" helps when the throttle is awkward. Mine kicks in when I hold the throttle steady few seconds, and then my right hand is free. I love it, even riding around the city.
It's a controller feature, but I understand my computer also supports cruise control, if the throttle and brake are connected to the computer instead of the controller.
It's a controller feature, but I understand my computer also supports cruise control, if the throttle and brake are connected to the computer instead of the controller.
Bigwheel
1 kW
Simplest solution I have found for throttle use with drop bars is this: https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/throttles/handle-bob.html
I agree that a cruise control function works great and use it all the time. Easy to override by either a blip of the throttle or my regen button.
Also useful for other controls that work best while close at hand and are for 25.4 handlebars.
I agree that a cruise control function works great and use it all the time. Easy to override by either a blip of the throttle or my regen button.
Also useful for other controls that work best while close at hand and are for 25.4 handlebars.
It's crazy no one makes a throttle for drop bars (1" diameter). All are made for 7/8" (22mm) mountain bike bars. Most throttles need to be on the bar; using a set screw in an aluminum ring to fix to the bar. Unfortuneatly, the ring isn't thick enough to ream out to 1".
Here's a throttle that doesn't have the thin Aluminum ring, just a thick ABS ring. Thick enough to round file out a 1" opening for drop bars and still have strength. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-7-8-Handlebar-Electric-Bike-Scooter-E-Bike-Thumb-Throttle-Gas-Twist-3-Wire/323457348847?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D93f64037c47b4c2ba3a87e022293bc0c%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D323457348847%26itm%3D323457348847&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Af69c5a42-fcb2-11e8-a0b2-74dbd1807dd3%7Cparentrq%3A999f69c01670a9cb38139fdafff0a893%7Ciid%3A1
It's designed for right side thumb use, also works the left side use using index finger. I mount it close to the center so I can use it in the more upright riding position. I don't need the throttle when braking or in a tuck coasting down hill.
Here's a throttle that doesn't have the thin Aluminum ring, just a thick ABS ring. Thick enough to round file out a 1" opening for drop bars and still have strength. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-7-8-Handlebar-Electric-Bike-Scooter-E-Bike-Thumb-Throttle-Gas-Twist-3-Wire/323457348847?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D93f64037c47b4c2ba3a87e022293bc0c%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D323457348847%26itm%3D323457348847&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Af69c5a42-fcb2-11e8-a0b2-74dbd1807dd3%7Cparentrq%3A999f69c01670a9cb38139fdafff0a893%7Ciid%3A1
It's designed for right side thumb use, also works the left side use using index finger. I mount it close to the center so I can use it in the more upright riding position. I don't need the throttle when braking or in a tuck coasting down hill.
airvibrations
10 µW
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2018
- Messages
- 5
I've had success using drop bar extensions:
https://www.amazon.com/Kbrotech-Han..._1?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=0F6PBZWC3J200H19FCG2
This allows you to place the AUX, throttle accessories within a thumb's reach from the drop bars while offering the proper bar diameter to do so.
https://www.amazon.com/Kbrotech-Han..._1?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=0F6PBZWC3J200H19FCG2
This allows you to place the AUX, throttle accessories within a thumb's reach from the drop bars while offering the proper bar diameter to do so.
silence
10 W
Sure about that?Firedog said:
Road bike bars are typically 15/16", about 23.8mm.
The aluminium ring has 27mm OD,so the wall thickness will be around 1.5mm after conversion - strong enough in my opinion.
[/quote]
Sure about that?
Road bike bars are typically 15/16", about 23.8mm.
The aluminium ring has 27mm OD,so the wall thickness will be around 1.5mm after conversion - strong enough in my opinion.IMG_20181211.jpg
[/quote]
Silence, your are right. I stand corrected. I used road bar's center diameter where it mounts to the quill. Old age, I guess. Thank you. I now have a great choice of throttles to use on road bars.
Sure about that?
Road bike bars are typically 15/16", about 23.8mm.
The aluminium ring has 27mm OD,so the wall thickness will be around 1.5mm after conversion - strong enough in my opinion.IMG_20181211.jpg
[/quote]
Silence, your are right. I stand corrected. I used road bar's center diameter where it mounts to the quill. Old age, I guess. Thank you. I now have a great choice of throttles to use on road bars.
Peterfr12
10 W
Hi Ruds23
This is what I did on my first ebike setup: I added a handlebar organiser attached onto the dropped bar, similar as this component
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/m-wave-handlebar-organizer/
the handlebar is made of a double clamps and a tube
and then screwed the throttle onto the tube.
With this setup, I can have access to the throttle either with my left hand on the top handlebar when I have a relax ride or also along the dropped bar when I am sprinting.
Best regards,
Pierre
This is what I did on my first ebike setup: I added a handlebar organiser attached onto the dropped bar, similar as this component
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/m-wave-handlebar-organizer/
the handlebar is made of a double clamps and a tube
and then screwed the throttle onto the tube.
With this setup, I can have access to the throttle either with my left hand on the top handlebar when I have a relax ride or also along the dropped bar when I am sprinting.
Best regards,
Pierre
motomech
10 MW
One interesting approach that was on here years ago was to use the shifter. I don't remember many details, or even how well it worked, but what he did was;
place a normal rotating throttle in a bag and run the first shifter cable to it. He made a bracket that converted the linear cable motion into the throttle rotation. It looked really cool.
place a normal rotating throttle in a bag and run the first shifter cable to it. He made a bracket that converted the linear cable motion into the throttle rotation. It looked really cool.
IIRC, a member named Geoff (or similar) did this and had a thread about it; someone even made "throttle boxes" for the purpose (you can now buy basically the same thing pretty cheaply on amazon/ebay/etc), instead of mounting a throttle to a stub tube with cable-pull-adjuster/etc. on it.
I think Biohazardman has a number of posts that show pics of a version of Geoff's mod on BHM's bikes.
I believe those versions used an old friction shifter, loosened up, as the bar-side throttle control.
But you could use a grip shifter with teh ball bearing removed from the detent mechanism, or an old indexed thumb shifter modded similarly, etc. Anything that gives the amount of cable movement you prefer, and will fit where you need it. (even a brake lever)
I think Biohazardman has a number of posts that show pics of a version of Geoff's mod on BHM's bikes.
I believe those versions used an old friction shifter, loosened up, as the bar-side throttle control.
But you could use a grip shifter with teh ball bearing removed from the detent mechanism, or an old indexed thumb shifter modded similarly, etc. Anything that gives the amount of cable movement you prefer, and will fit where you need it. (even a brake lever)
I searched for ages to find a good solution to this on my roadie project.
My method was to take the standard thumb throttle and cut off the complete circle part. This left a flat surface and two small 'links' that I used a cable tie with to attach to the bars. I put the cable tie under the shifter rubber and it was lovely.
Great location and used my thumb to control it. Also didnt have to move my hand away from brake etc when using it.
My method was to take the standard thumb throttle and cut off the complete circle part. This left a flat surface and two small 'links' that I used a cable tie with to attach to the bars. I put the cable tie under the shifter rubber and it was lovely.
Great location and used my thumb to control it. Also didnt have to move my hand away from brake etc when using it.
Hello,
What throttle is this that you so cleverly modified?I searched for ages to find a good solution to this on my roadie project.
My method was to take the standard thumb throttle and cut off the complete circle part. This left a flat surface and two small 'links' that I used a cable tie with to attach to the bars. I put the cable tie under the shifter rubber and it was lovely.
Great location and used my thumb to control it. Also didnt have to move my hand away from brake etc when using it.
It’s an old thresd, doubt you’ll get a response.
Either way, the ergonomics of the design fall somewhere between poor and horrible. As do all the designs in this thread.
If you want a more bearable solution, use a road dropper post lever - there’s a couple of decent ones about, but I can’t vouch for all of them - hooked up to a cable throttle converter.
The throttle converters’ full range will be 30-35mm of cable travel, and the dropper post levers’ will be around 20mm, and perhaps as little as 15mm, so you’ll ideally want a controller with configurable throttle voltage range, or else to modify the hall magnets or cable travel.
Either way, the ergonomics of the design fall somewhere between poor and horrible. As do all the designs in this thread.
If you want a more bearable solution, use a road dropper post lever - there’s a couple of decent ones about, but I can’t vouch for all of them - hooked up to a cable throttle converter.
The throttle converters’ full range will be 30-35mm of cable travel, and the dropper post levers’ will be around 20mm, and perhaps as little as 15mm, so you’ll ideally want a controller with configurable throttle voltage range, or else to modify the hall magnets or cable travel.
With thanks.
No worries.
If you go with a gravel dropper post lever, expect to spend a lot of time dialling it in. Every millimeter and degree of rotation matter to optimising the ergonomics and minimising cable friction.
And achieving a clean bar tape install requires a lot of experimentation, so allow another hour for this task as well if you’re anything of a perfectionist.
If you go with a gravel dropper post lever, expect to spend a lot of time dialling it in. Every millimeter and degree of rotation matter to optimising the ergonomics and minimising cable friction.
And achieving a clean bar tape install requires a lot of experimentation, so allow another hour for this task as well if you’re anything of a perfectionist.
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