silverheels wrote:6. Using 10awg Teflon (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 0640559877) I cut 3 x 12" lengths. This particular wire consists of multiple layers of Teflon wrapped around the silvered copper wire core.
icecube57 wrote:I dont know what hills you have but my 9x7 scoots up anything I throw at it at 66v 45A. Its taken the hill on my street several times in a row... dumping 4000+w into it each time. These motors are alot more forgiving than you think.
icecube57 wrote:There is supposed to be a spray for corrosion for the covers. Think its Corrosion X and also another spray enamel/varnish for the motor stator and windings itself. I would probably dab some RTV silicon on the hall wire legs. If you are in a sea boarding state/city or just have high humidity in general I would spray the covers with that Corrosion X. Also depending on how your weather is and temps go you dont want condensation build up inside your motor. Store your bike indoors when possible and dont make your holes huge like min if you want to go through the occasional rain.
dogman wrote:Venting the hub does plenty, I've seen it on a thermometer. You may not be able to run a whole lot longer, but you'll cool back off again ten times faster vented. I ride though a lot of sand, so it's not an option for me to vent a dirt bike.
Short hills, good. You should have no problems then. If you pulled 4k watts for very long, like 5 miles or so, then you'd have trouble. We never know what a new guy has planned. Some live in the mountians and want to ride some wicked logging roads.
Many are using bbq thermometers for the temp monitoring. I've been just reading the temp at the axles, by sticking a car indoor outdoor thermometers temp sensor to the axle. Crude, inaccurate, but you can at least tell when you are still getting hotter and need to stop, and when you are at temp equilibrium and can keep going. Above 140 F on the axle is about time to stop or at least back off the watts.
LVC. Once you know how your cells are behaving, just watching pack voltage can be enough. Size your pack right, and 99% of the time you have no worries. The other 1% is covered by knowing something stinks when you see low voltage on the CA.
geetarboy wrote:Hey Silverheels, Sounds like a good plan. I agree w/ Icecube about these motors, I've had mine too hot to touch many times and it takes it. Over 2800 miles runnin 24s w/ the same Lyen's controller you are talkin about. So you should be able to run 24s without any modification. I set my LVC for 3.3v per cell - so 60v for 18s & 80v for 24s. Supposedly the lipo's will last alot longer if you don't charge above 4.15v and don't discharge below 3.3 according to Liveforphysics. I have found I can get a full 5ah's out of a 5ah pack and stay within these limits. I also have a 9c 8x8 on the way from Methods, I am going to swap it out w/ my 9x7. Willing to sacrifice 5mph for a faster take-off and more power on the hills...Have fun with it - Mark
dogman wrote:I have melted a 9c motor. 3500 watts, and I was stalling the crap out of it climing some crazy steep hills on a pipeline road. 20 degrees kind of stuff.
It melted the solder off the phase wires, and a big bump disconnected all three. Some twine that ties down the windings was burnt to a crisp. Motors running again now, after soldering the wires back on.
On other motors, I've had issues with magnet epoxy melting, and even demagnetized some magnets. both those were brushed motors though.
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