perspex plastic vs ping battery ?

Pictures would help, even if they aren't to scale ... I can't quite get what you're describing?

I don't see a problem with the material. If you are going to stand the battery on end to carry it, you would want to relocate the bms to the top, where it can get ventilation. Only the bms really needs cooling, even in hot climates.

maybe it's easier to use Acryllic glass ? It has a high melting temp (190C, 375F) and is easier to saw / drill than perspex.

Like Dog said, only the BMS really needs to be able to disipate heat. If your battery is getting hot enough to melt plastic, then you are pulling way to many Cs from the pack, or you have some other serious problems.

As for cutting it, I would use a skill saw. It can be a challenge cutting like this, go to slow and you will melt the plastic, go to fast and you risk shattering it. You can figure it out easy enough with a little trial and error though.

Wile that would probably work, it's going to make one hell of a mess and is a lil over kill. Just get a couple of extra sheets to practice on before making the cuts that count.

http://www.harborfreight.com/p95-maintenance-free-dual-cartridge-respirator-66554.html

Honestly, at that price, if you can afford it, I would just have it cut.

One of my ping batteries lives in a tight ammo box full of bubble wrap and the BMS has no problem with heat that I can tell.

Acrylic and Polycarbonate are different.

Acrylic will crack and shatter if you hit it hard enough.. Carbonate will not.

You can heat and bend polycarbonate with a heat gun ( you can even cold bend it if the material is thin enough )

A video i made a while back

[youtube]6ik-wqRNFSE[/youtube]

Cutting it, a scroll saw works well, a jig saw will also do but trickier (you can lay pieces on a block of foam to help support it while you cut )

Using a table saw kinda sucks cuz it flings molten hot plastic everywhere... but it works..

It will melt and bind up in a dremel, use a normal drill to make holes and do not push hard, let the bit do the work..

Yeah, Harbor Freight in America is to tools like Walmart is to...well everything. It's cheap Chinese stuff but they have great prices.

As far as putting your controller in a plastic enclosure..in any enclosure really. Not a good idea. Your controller definitely needs good airflow over it. I keep mine mounted on top of my battery bag on the back. If it looks like rain, I put a plastic bag over the whole works and go slow enough to keep the heat build up to a minimum. You might get away with it in the winter as long as you are not pulling very much current through it. But any decent amount of current and you are going to have issues.

Your wiring being secure shouldn't have anything to do with a makeshift bag over the controller. Use of zip ties and decent plug connectors should be all you really need to make sure that's not a problem. The bag is just a way to cover what you should already have mounted in some way. There are a million other options... Ask around and see what others have done. The plexi isn't a bad idea, if you can make it so that it isn't permanent.

My cargo bag has very sturdy handles on the top of it. I use those with zip ties to hold my controller on top of the bag. It's very stable and isn't going anywhere, and truthfully doesn't look bad at all. You don't really even notice how it's mounted unless you really look at it, black handles, with black zip ties, and a black controller, on a black bag. All wires are attached to the frame with zip ties. A plastic grocery bag fits over the whole cargo/battery pack hanging off of my seat post perfectly.

Without any pictures of what you are working with, I can't really help more than tell you what I've done. Suffice it to say, there really are a million ways to mount a controller to a bike. But in some/most cases fabrication may be needed.

It's usually best if you KISS it...(K)eep (I)t (S)imple (S)tupid, and don't over engineer it. Just keep in mind it needs air flow. Hell I've seen builds on here where guys use duct tape to mount it, and that seems to work just fine. It ain't pretty, but does the job.

pfft it was over 101F today!

No, sorry I can't think of any particular mounting threads. Just cruise through all the build threads. And look at what others have done. Check out the e-bike photos, and videos forum.

I was thinking there might be way to fit one of those water bottle clips onto the section just unde rthe seat to hold the controller, but the problem is that , the crossabr gets in the way leaving a gap of 9" from front or back ( unless you were drill through frame itself / seat post )

Click to expand...

That's actually a pretty good idea. No problems with drilling that part of the bike as long as you don't drill into the welds. I drilled my bike in the exact spot to thread a bolt through the seat post/and rear rack mount. I did this because my rear rack is really heavy with the battery and I wanted to take some of the stress off of the seat post. The way the rack mounts on the post, with a lot of weight, put too much stress on the post. Well it's kind of hard to explain with out a pic. Needless to say adding a bolt made it a lot stronger.

I'll have to get a pic to show you, but I had no problems drilling mine. It's also aluminum and no it didn't crack.