Going LiPo - Advice Required

Hi,

I'm doing my first build with Crystalyte HS3540 and a Crystalyte 36/48V 40A Controller.

I want to jump straight into LiPo but I am a total noob and need a bit of advice.

I want to try a 36V setup first, moving to up 48V if required and then possibly 72V in the future.

There seems to be a huge learning curve with LiPo and after much trawling through the forums I like Jimbo's setup.

For the initial '36V' setup I was going to use 2 x Turnigy nano-tech 4500mah 10S 25~50C Lipo Pack's in parallel.

For the '48V' setup I was going to use 2 x Turnigy nano-tech 4500mah 6S 25~50C Lipo Pack's in series or perhaps 4 of them with two in parallel.

So now I need a charger and power supply.....

The two favourites appear to be:

HYPERION EOS 1420i NET3 CHARGER - 1S-14S, 20A MAX, 550W
iCharger 1010B+ 300W 10s Balance/Charger

Seeing as the Hyperion does up to 14S and my suggested '48V' setup has two 6S packs then presumably this would be the better option over the iCharger's 10S ?

I really have no idea about suitable power supplies, however I think the HobbyKing 540w 220~240v Power Supply (13.8v~18v - 30amp) would do the job?

And finally, the Crystalyte controller's battery connection is the 'Anderson' type it seems. What is the preferred method of combining LiPo bricks together?
Is there anywhere you can buy a cable with the two pole Anderson on one end and then that splitting out into two, with bullet connectors for the 4mm bullets on the lipo bricks, so as to have two bricks in parallel etc?

Is there an easy modular way to do this myself?

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers,
Kudos

1. Start reading on Lipos here at Ypedal's excellent explanation of Lipos and how to use them safely.
2. You really want to be able to monitor individual cell voltage to prevent discharging below 3.2V per cell. Many people mentioned the use of Cell Logs. I went with these. Others use dedicated lipo balancers in combo with bulk chargers.
3. Here is a classical example how to build different Lipo packs
   • Pack: 48V 12S3P 15Ah; Bricks: 6S1P 5Ah Zippy 25C; by Ypedal 2011

As far as I know, Jimbo uses 10S bricks in 20S2P config. This will give you 72V nominal and 84V fully charged. So that would be "future" for you. However, in order to be able to run that, you are already limiting yourself to either 5S packs (4x 5S = 20S) or 6S packs (3x 6S = 18S), which is indeed what I see most people here using.

I have the iCharger 1010B and a 350W PSU (which is on the small side). That means, I can not do 12S or the likes. However, decided to stick to 10S bricks or possibly to 5S. I just do not like the hassle of many wires. The main risk of going 10S is that if there is one bad cell, you lost 10S of lipo instead of 5S. 10S costs around $85,- so one dud is quite expensive, and indeed happened to me (5 out of 6 from HK were perfect, the last one had 2 dead cells)

My advice, stick to 5S (or 10S), and you will be fine with the iCharger. If you have the money, go with the best brand in the Lipo world, which is the Hyperion. Note that Hyperion use different connectors, so to use components between the two systems may mean a lot of soldering.

For power, you can just calculate what you need. For example, if you are going to charge a 10S (42V fully charged) pack at 10Amp, you will need a PSU of 10x42 = 420W. You can do the math for your preferred config.

If you need a power supply I can supply a modded server power supply thats 12V 72a FOR AROUND 60$

There are vendors that make cables but they arent really intended for discharge and may require modification and will also be kinda short. I can either point you to some videos to where you can make your own cable or you can purchase some from me.

Hyperions are very nice and allow you to charge packs without breaking them down to charge.

Ichargers are very nice and the price is a bit lower. You can charge up to 10s without breaking the packs down. WHile the Hyperion can charge up to 14s.

Any brand other than those two your quality and usage experience may very. Most charge well. Some are more prone to releasing magic smoke... Some can balance worth a damn. Those are the two brands that Esers know and trust.

But if you want to save some headache you can make a 1 plug solution that series all your packs with one plug to discharge and parallels all your packs with one plug to charge. You can do this with 4mm bullets which should be good for 60-80a . You can do the same thing with the less capeable 45A Anderson Connectors.

You can make this yourself if ur handy with soldering and can crimp Andersons or I can make it for you.

I would defintely read the threads posted by the original poster and make some informed decisions. Ill be here if you need some help with your cableling solution. A photo gallery of my work is on the wix website below in my signature. Cheers and best of luck getting into lipo.

Hey Kudos, Sounds like you got it pretty much figured out. It has helped make it easier for me to use common connectors for everything, I use 4mm bullets for all my power connections now. If you need an external power supply, pc power supplies are cheap and dependable. Soldering skills help.
Good Luck, Mark

geetarboy said:

Hey Kudos, Sounds like you got it pretty much figured out. It has helped make it easier for me to use common connectors for everything, I use 4mm bullets for all my power connections now. If you need an external power supply, pc power supplies are cheap and dependable. Soldering skills help.
Good Luck, Mark

Click to expand...

PC power supplies are great. Quality may vary and ratings may be fluffed or peak ratings. Atleast server PSUs are no BS. They put out what they say they are going to put out. Ive had so many meanwell PSU DOA Its not even funny. If you get one working kudos to you. Buy from reputable vendor.

Another ESer posted this combo
http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17_20&products_id=168

You arent charging a big pack so this would be perfect but you have to use a series discharge and parallel charging setup since it only goes to 6s

Go with 5s packs. That will give you the options of 37V, 55V (48V equivilant, sort of.) 74V, or even 92 if you find 74 just isn't enough.
As others have pointed out, you will get cells that go bad, and its much cheaper to replace a 5s pack. Its also easier to charge, although you need more chargers. I've found the Imax B6 to be fine. I use that same power supply too

The larger the pack size you go with, the greater the fire danger. charging in seperate 5s packs lowers the chance of damage if a cell decides to go critical.

It is more connections, more wires, and more steps to charge, but it's also safer and more flexable

As for the connectors, Learn to Solder and put on your own. Like driving stick or unhooking a bra strap one handed, Its one of those skills that every man should have.

5s or 6s is a bit of a dilemma. Much depends on how flexible your charging setup is, and if you are bulk charging or using RC chargers. Most of your charging will not have to be balance charges. That makes using even 6s chargers an option. You simply paralell all the packs at the big wires, and charge it as one huge 6s pack. This works fine, once you weed out any weak packs from the system. 12s is a nice voltage. I say go with that for your starter pack. 4 x 5000 mha 6s. Then later get 8 5s packs if you are ready to go 72v. By then, you'll need that 12s pack for the second bike anyway.

Icecube, and others have set up nice cable sets that make the paralell series switch idiot proof. You can buy one from Ice, or just imitate others.

When It's time to to more time consuming balance charging, that's when I'm glad my setup is two chargers, rather than a single one. So I can balance packs by pairs, twice as fast.

Paralell your pairs of packs first, then do the series connections to run them.

FYI, you can break up the 10s into 2x5s if you want. Just need to cut the shrink and split it. Just be careful not to cut the lipo. : )

2 ways you can go from 37V to "48V" to 74V:
A) 10s (37V or 42V hot off the charger (HOC)) -> 15s (55.5V or 63V HOC) -> 20s (74V or 84V HOC). going this route means all you need to do is get 5s lipos or 10s and break it up later on. But the problem is that most "48V" controller only can handle up to 60V safely, so I would skip the "48V" step if you go this route.

B) 2x6s (44.4V or 50.4V HOC) -> 18s (66.6V or 75.6V HOC) Going this route means that you essentially skip the 37V, but not quit the 48V. Again i don't know if there is a "36V" controller that can handle 50.4V. You might have to just go to the 48V controller right out.

All in all, If you want to save money, I would just get 10s lipo and skip the "48V" step and go to the 74V.

But if you are willing pay a bit in battery you can do 37V -> "48" -> 74V by going 10s -> 10s + 4s -> 10s + 4s + 6s OR 10s + 10s.

I would go with 10s + 4s if you want to go from 37V to "48V." But this means that once you go to 74V, you will have to buy 6s or throw away your 4s and get more 10s. If you go with 10s + 4s + 6s, it will be messy connection and you have to be very careful. Also charging is will be complicated. If you go with 10s + 10s, then it will be cleaner, but that means that you will have throw away your 4s or use it some other way.

Whatever way you do, you better be dead sure of your lipo understanding. Lipos are not very forgiving if you make a mistake.

kudos said:

Hi,

I'm doing my first build with Crystalyte HS3540 and a Crystalyte 36/48V 40A Controller.

I want to jump straight into LiPo but I am a total noob and need a bit of advice.

I want to try a 36V setup first, moving to up 48V if required and then possibly 72V in the future.

...
Cheers,
Kudos

Click to expand...

Hi,

My first setup was this, HTxxxx hub, Crystalyte 72 V 40 A controller
3 packs of 7S connected in series. I still have them, only changed the controller to Infineon.

I'm not quite sure of the advantage of moving gradually to 72V, we're always hungry for power.

When i read the proposals below, which are certainly valid, i'm not sure this is the best route to go if you are not familiar with LiPos.
You would have to tinker more with them, connecting, disconnecting, soldering, ....the risk of making mistakes is higher this way in my opinion.
And then, not sure about the difference between shorting a 36V and a 72V. One is a smaller ball of fire, the other one bigger, but still a fire ball.

Your call.

Hi there,

I have been thinking about this over the weekend, and I would advice to limit yourself to 37V and 74V, and skip the 48V step. This was already proposed by someone else here, but here is what I think:

1. 37V (10S) and 74V (20S) are really easily interchangeable, as 20S is really 10S and 10S in series. Therefore, hooking up your packs is a matter of interposing 1 extra harnass (which puts both 10S packs in series) and then you are done. You can make the harnass yourself (I did), but then you need to take into account your own learning curve in Lipos and in soldering. Better to ask Icecube57 for a harnass that fits 10S and 20S in multiple configurations, and then try to copy that yourself. That way you can start with a reliable system, and do your own learning curve without risk.
2. You still can choose between 10S packs and 5S packs. And you could even start with a couple of 5S packs (4 of them), and experiment with a 10S setup, a 15S (55.5V) setup, and a 20S setup, without too much risk. Just make sure to keep the capacities the same. You should not combine a 10S 4.5 Ah lipo with a 5S 8.0 Ah lipo, because the last one will be used for only 56% of it's capacity, which may lead to imbalanced cells between the two packs.
3. Therefore, either go for a full 5S configuration, which needs a huge harnass to patch everything together, but will give you the flexibility to do 15S, experiment some more, and be relatively cheap. Also, there are huge capacity 5S packs available at 8Ah, which is very nice. Or go for a full 10S setup, which needs less cables, but you can not use the 15S setup, and you will have a bit more risk when cells fail. As mentioned before, I went for the complete 10S solution, because I can carry some risk of duds, and I like to work with less cables. However, I find 4.5Ah a bit on the small side, and usually carry 2P, aka 9Ah with me.
4. You do not have to buy a huge 14S charger. The 10S iCharger will be more than sufficient. Just make sure to get a 450W PSU, so that you can make use of the maximally 10Amp charging rate of the iCharger. With my 350W PSU I usually balance charge 4x 10S lipo at 7A in 1.5 hour. I now wish I would have bought the 450W PSU.
5. You will probably need another controller if you want to go for 15S and 20S (74V nominal / 84V HOC). I'm assuming you use the sensorless Clyte combo. Therefore, if you may want to consider Lyen's 6FET controller to play with the higher voltages. Just ask him to adjust the voltage range to accept for 15S and 20S before you buy. And if you blow your Lyen controller, you still have the original Clyte controller to keep you going.

Thanks everyone for your input. A lot of info to digest once again.

The beauty of LiPo it seems is it's flexibility, with all the different pack sizes you can make so many combos.

Taking the advice of a few suggestions given here, I think I'll go 5s/10s for my '36V/72V' setup.

I can always experiment with 6S setups later. Any LiPo I don't end up using for my bike will end up getting used for a bike for my wife anyway...

I think I'll go for:

10S iCharger http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6609
540W PSU http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...w_220_240v_Power_Supply_13_8v_18v_30amp_.html
Cell Log x2 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10952__Cell_Log_8M_Cell_Voltage_Monitor_2_8S_Lipo.html

Plus I will contact Icecube57 to get some leads made up, once I see how they're done I'll learn to solder up some of my own in future.

One thing I am still confused about though is a 10S pack has two power leads and two balance leads because it's just two 5S packs stuck together. The 10S diagram shows the power leads going to two separate outputs on a single charger, ie a dual charger unit.

The iCharger only has one set of power outputs, so how does it charge a 10S pack ?

Cheers,
Kudos

Im not sure where you live but everything you ordered can be ordered from EPBuddy in the USA. http://WWW.EPBUDDY.COM save yourself some shipping costs if you live in the states.

One thing I dont like about those 10s packs is they have dual out puts. They are essentially two 5s packs heat shrinked together. I think its easier to deal with individual packs instead of those combo packs. Maybe cheaper to deal with individual packs....sometimes.

Alot of people like to series their pack for discharge and parallel their packs for charging. With the harness I have below The transition between the two is simple as swapping 1 plug.

Those 10s packs arent really friendly for doing that without making multiple disconnections and connections It can be confusing and fustrating.

Hi Kudos,

Sounds reasonable to me.

The iCharger comes with a balancing board, with two connectors for 5S. These you can use for either 2 packs of 5S, or one pack of 10S. For 2x 5S there are probably multiple options to charge. One way would be to set the iCharger to 10S, and connect the main leads of the 5S packs in series, to effectively create a 10S pack. Be very carefull to then plug in the the balancing leads in the right way into the balancing board. The other way could be to set the iCharger to 2x 5S lipo, but I am not sure, because I have never done that. The last way would be to connect the 5S lipos in parallel, connect the balancing leads in parallel, and just tell the iCharger you are charging 5S.

10S is easy. Tell the iCharger to balance charge 10S lipo. The two main leads connect directly to the charger. Connect the 2 balance plugs to the balancing board in the correct way, plug the balancing board into the charger, and charge. Oh, and you will see some nice fireworks when connecting the balance plugs in the wrong way (been there, done that).

The balancing plugs need to be in the correct order: aka cell 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, divided over 2 plugs (1-5, and 6-10). The ground wire of cell 1 will be 0Volts, and the balancing wire of cell 10 will carry 37V. Note that the balancing wire of cell 5 is the same as the ground wire of cell 6, which correspond with 18.7V. Now, if you connect the plugs in the other way: (first 6-10, then 1-5), there will be a nice 37Volt spark (balance wire of cell 10 = 37V versus ground wire of cell 1 = 0V).


KR,
Henk

kudos said:

One thing I am still confused about though is a 10S pack has two power leads and two balance leads because it's just two 5S packs stuck together. The 10S diagram shows the power leads going to two separate outputs on a single charger, ie a dual charger unit.

The iCharger only has one set of power outputs, so how does it charge a 10S pack ?

Cheers,
Kudos

Click to expand...

Lipo is easy once you get the basics. It gets indimidating for new users especially if they have to make multiple connections. One good thing about the HK lipo packs is if you get a good set and they are behaving well you cand just bulk charge them ....meaning charging them blind to a set voltage ignoring individual cell voltages. But this also must be followed up with periodic checks and balance cyles which can be performed every 10-15-20 cycles depending on how well your pack behaves.

[youtube]qEf4nV6j6o4[/youtube]

Here is a picture gallery on my website. This will show you several harness examples you could use to connect your packs up.
http://www.wix.com/khristopher2000inbox/lipo-connect-solutions#!gallery

kudos said:

Hi,

I'm doing my first build with Crystalyte HS3540 and a Crystalyte 36/48V 40A Controller.

I want to jump straight into LiPo but I am a total noob and need a bit of advice.

I want to try a 36V setup first, moving to up 48V if required and then possibly 72V in the future.

There seems to be a huge learning curve with LiPo and after much trawling through the forums I like Jimbo's setup.

For the initial '36V' setup I was going to use 2 x Turnigy nano-tech 4500mah 10S 25~50C Lipo Pack's in parallel.

For the '48V' setup I was going to use 2 x Turnigy nano-tech 4500mah 6S 25~50C Lipo Pack's in series or perhaps 4 of them with two in parallel.

So now I need a charger and power supply.....

The two favourites appear to be:

HYPERION EOS 1420i NET3 CHARGER - 1S-14S, 20A MAX, 550W
iCharger 1010B+ 300W 10s Balance/Charger

Seeing as the Hyperion does up to 14S and my suggested '48V' setup has two 6S packs then presumably this would be the better option over the iCharger's 10S ?

I really have no idea about suitable power supplies, however I think the HobbyKing 540w 220~240v Power Supply (13.8v~18v - 30amp) would do the job?

And finally, the Crystalyte controller's battery connection is the 'Anderson' type it seems. What is the preferred method of combining LiPo bricks together?
Is there anywhere you can buy a cable with the two pole Anderson on one end and then that splitting out into two, with bullet connectors for the 4mm bullets on the lipo bricks, so as to have two bricks in parallel etc?

Is there an easy modular way to do this myself?

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers,
Kudos

Click to expand...

My advice would be this: read read read and then read some more. The day you think you know it all is the day you have an accident. There are some great threads around here on LiPo. Read up on them and take care always. It can be done on ones own, its how everyone here started off in any case.

icecube57,

You're right about the 10S packs with dual outputs being confusing. Typical that I choose this battery to first try and understand about charging LiPo.

The 5S/6S/7S all have one set of outputs which is straight forward and easy to understand - but the 10S packs as you say have dual outputs.

I just don't understand how the iCharger can be a 10S charger, if 10S packs have dual outputs and yet the iCharger doesn't have dual charging outputs???
This just doesn't make sense to me and is very frustrating, what am I missing ?

From what I can see 10S packs require a 'dual charger' with two charging outputs like the Hyperion Duo chargers.

I think I'm pretty much there with everything else, parallel charging packs makes sense, using your cables to switch between parallel and serial all makes sense.
Using 5S packs and building them up into 10S2P etc all makes sense...

Kudos

You are missing that the 10S packs are essentially 2x 5S in series. They do NOT require a dual charger. There is only one pair of main leads, carrying 37V. The iCharger recognizes the voltage over the leads, and will recognize a 10S lipo due to the voltage between 30 and 42 volt over the main leads, even if you do not connect the balance wires.

The individual cells in the 10S pack all have a ground and a balance wire, and for cells 2-10, the balance wire of the predecessing cell acting as ground for the next cell. However, the balance connectors are divided into 2x 5S connectors. Every 5S connector has 6 wires (ground + balance for cell 1, balance for cell 2, balance for 3, balance for 4, and balance for 5, the other 5S connector has ground + balance for cell 6, balance for cell 7, balance for 8, balance for 9, and balance for 10). Therefore, the 10S pack has 2x 5S balance connectors = 12 wires.

The iCharger has a balance board with 2 slots for 5S (2x 6 wires). These are then recombined to a main balancing cable, that feeds into the iCharger. The balancing boards is only there for your convenience and to keep compatibility with the connectors. They might as well have created a new 10S (11 wire) balance connector and plugged it directly into the iCharger.

In the end, the iCharger therefore sees 11 balancing wires, and 2 main leads. The charger is able to monitor all 10 individual cells, while providing 42V to the main leads. If any cell nears 4.20 V (or any other High Voltage Cutoff = HVC that you can select yourself), it will move into trickle balancing (also configurable in the iCharger) and feed less Amps to the fully charged cells, while keeping charging the remaining cells.

Hope this helps.

KR,
Henk

kudos said:

icecube57,

You're right about the 10S packs with dual outputs being confusing. Typical that I choose this battery to first try and understand about charging LiPo.

The 5S/6S/7S all have one set of outputs which is straight forward and easy to understand - but the 10S packs as you say have dual outputs.

I just don't understand how the iCharger can be a 10S charger, if 10S packs have dual outputs and yet the iCharger doesn't have dual charging outputs???
This just doesn't make sense to me and is very frustrating, what am I missing ?

From what I can see 10S packs require a 'dual charger' with two charging outputs like the Hyperion Duo chargers.

I think I'm pretty much there with everything else, parallel charging packs makes sense, using your cables to switch between parallel and serial all makes sense.
Using 5S packs and building them up into 10S2P etc all makes sense...

Kudos

Click to expand...

I would recommend some other power supply. There are many reports that the power supply from hobby king is crap. I use PRC500 for my power supply. It has two ports output and can go up to 500W. The icharger is good as long as you plug in before powering on the power supply.

As for how plug it all up, just read the manual. It is really easy, but read it so you dont miss something.

Good luck with the lipo build and keep us posted on how it turns out.

Henk,

I really do appreciate you taking the time to help me out!

You are saying that 10S packs only have one pair of main leads carrying 37V which are the two 5S packs in series. If this is the case there there would be no confusion on my part. This is exactly how I expected them to operate. Case closed.

However......

Take a look at this Hobby King pack:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...y_nano_tech_4500mah_10S_25_50C_Lipo_Pack.html

The photo shows two sets of power leads, the diagram shows two sets of power leads with 5S to each set, the diagram also shows the two leads going to a dual charger, with the balance leads going to each side too.

So unless you are supposed to contradict the charging diagram and link them in series yourself and then charge?
....or there is a 10S pack somewhere that only has one pair of external power leads?
What brand of 10S LiPo are you using?

Cheers,
Kudos

I am using the Zippys which are not available at this very moment at HK. It is the cheap version of this German based version. If I were to purchase new 10S lipos, I would either go for the ones you linked to, or I would go for these German based Lipos, because Germany borders with Switzerland.

Now, I actually do not understand the diagram posted by HK. I think the main message is not to connect both balance connectors in parallel to a single balancing I/O on the charger. For my Zippies, the double pairs of main leads is wrong. From the pictures, I would expect the Nano lipos to have only one pair of main leads (as in the picture) and two balance connectors (also in the picture). However, reading some of the messages below the ad, it seems that the 10S Nanos are indeed 2x 5S, with a pair of main leads for each 5S pack. If that is the case, you are indeed looking at 2 sets of main leads, and you can charge the pack as 2x 5S as a 5S2P pack by connecting the main leads in parallel. In that case, you should also connect the balance wires in parallel, and charge as one huge high capacity 5S lipo. If you connect the main leads in series, you are looking at a 10S1P pack, and then you should connect the balance wires in series as well.

Note that this is only my theory, because I do not have experience with these specific Nano Lipos nor with the Turnigy charger mentioned in the diagram.

edit: looking closer at the photos of hte Nano lipo, it does look like there are 2 pairs of main leads.

KR,
Henk

kudos said:

Henk,

I really do appreciate you taking the time to help me out!

You are saying that 10S packs only have one pair of main leads carrying 37V which are the two 5S packs in series. If this is the case there there would be no confusion on my part. This is exactly how I expected them to operate. Case closed.

However......

Take a look at this Hobby King pack:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...y_nano_tech_4500mah_10S_25_50C_Lipo_Pack.html

The photo shows two sets of power leads, the diagram shows two sets of power leads with 5S to each set, the diagram also shows the two leads going to a dual charger, with the balance leads going to each side too.

So unless you are supposed to contradict the charging diagram and link them in series yourself and then charge?
....or there is a 10S pack somewhere that only has one pair of external power leads?
What brand of 10S LiPo are you using?

Cheers,
Kudos

Click to expand...

kudos said:

Take a look at this Hobby King pack:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...y_nano_tech_4500mah_10S_25_50C_Lipo_Pack.html

The photo shows two sets of power leads, the diagram shows two sets of power leads with 5S to each set, the diagram also shows the two leads going to a dual charger, with the balance leads going to each side too.

Click to expand...

Look again. There are 2 5s balance cables and only one power cable (+/-). Now if you want to pay $100 for 4.5ah of 10s lipo, more power to you. Personally, I think it's just a waste of money when you can get 2 5ah 6s bricks for less and have more speed and range.

That one has two leads sets too you can barely see it in the photo.

wesnewell said:

kudos said:

Take a look at this Hobby King pack:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...y_nano_tech_4500mah_10S_25_50C_Lipo_Pack.html

The photo shows two sets of power leads, the diagram shows two sets of power leads with 5S to each set, the diagram also shows the two leads going to a dual charger, with the balance leads going to each side too.

Click to expand...

Look again. There are 2 5s balance cables and only one power cable (+/-). Now if you want to pay $100 for 4.5ah of 10s lipo, more power to you. Personally, I think it's just a waste of money when you can get 2 5ah 6s bricks for less and have more speed and range.

Click to expand...

The Nano-Tech has more cycles.

If you look at the photo again, you can clearly see an additional positive {red} terminal on the left.

So after checking the charging diagram again, I see that there are the long 'main' leads and a pair of short 'series' leads.

I'm now presuming that the short 'series' leads are meant to be joined together to give the full 37V at the longer main leads.

I'm also presuming once these short series leads are joined they become like the Zippy pack and can just be charged by a 10S charger like the iCharger

or

they can be charged as a split pack as per the diagram on the website.

Kudos