Hi ever since i built my 48v 1000w ebike i've found that every time i'm holding the throttle and i hit a bump on my back tire (rack mount so problem is likely in controller, bms or battery wiring) the bike shuts down and is easily restarted. Has anyone the slightest clue? all the wiring seems fine and i haven't heard of anyone else with this problem. note the problem can't be in the motor as motor is front wheel and it only shuts off when it hits back wheel while the throttle is held.
Bike shuts off on bumps
- Thread starter ian.mich
- Start date
DAND214
10 MW
How do you get it restarted?
Unplug battery or other things or does it just restart?
Dan
el_walto
10 kW
If it takes flicking the power switch off and on to restart the bike, then the problem is likely the BMS is cutting out because of a bad connection wire from the battery to the BMS, or within the battery.
randel24
1 mW
Check all of the connections ,(plugs) my problems were with phase wires until I put on new bullet connectors. None now.
DAND214
10 MW
I'm with neptronix on the battery. Loose connection to the BMS or even to the battery. I would check voltage at the controller before you reset the switch. If no poer to the controller it's the battery section. Check all connections on the battery and the switch.
Dan
Dan
If it's a cylindrical-cell pack, like my Vpower/CammyCC pack, you may want to check out the thread I have on my rebuild of one.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=22750
or a similar type here:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=30864
It's apparently not uncommon for spot welds on tabs to break, and I could imagine a situation where entire rows of cells could become disconnected. Also solder on the balance wires is not spectacular, either, so they can break off and the BMS would cut out.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=22750
or a similar type here:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=30864
It's apparently not uncommon for spot welds on tabs to break, and I could imagine a situation where entire rows of cells could become disconnected. Also solder on the balance wires is not spectacular, either, so they can break off and the BMS would cut out.
dogman dan
1 PW
Hmm, it does sould a bit wierd that working the switch would fix the problem if it's a loose connector past the switch.
I think AW has it right, if it's a cheaper round cell pack. When you hit a bump, a few cells disconnect because the spot welds are broken. Once that cell group has less cells, the bms trips because that cell group sags. That's my guess.
More info on your duct tape battery please.
I think AW has it right, if it's a cheaper round cell pack. When you hit a bump, a few cells disconnect because the spot welds are broken. Once that cell group has less cells, the bms trips because that cell group sags. That's my guess.
More info on your duct tape battery please.
CogHog
100 W
I had a simular problem with my BMC front 600w bmc 50amp controller where when I down throttle the power would cut out but I can still see 50v on the CA like nothing disconnected. I have the same kind of Marine kill switch and would shut down the power from the battery to the controller for 7 to 10 seconds before power on. Like something needed to drain from the contoller before it would run again. Changed the throttle 3 times as I have about 6 and it would start happening again so I changed the controller and have not had the problem again but don't like running this without a CA mod on this second controller as I am pushing it without being aware of the 2500w I can push at this motor. Glad I got used to the amps limited to 25 so now I have a feel for the hill speed I am trying to climb. I am thinking it is the CA mod that is the culprit and will have my buddy add it to a third controller.
dogman dan
1 PW
Opening the controller and looking for bad stuff inside could be worth it. Mabye as simple as a bad loose solder joint in there, like whre wires go from battery to controller or something.
But if that's a cheapo spot welded round cell pack, I'm betting it's the battery myself.
But if that's a cheapo spot welded round cell pack, I'm betting it's the battery myself.
Diamondback
10 kW
i had exactly the same thing happen with my battery when it was new.
in my case, it turned out to be a bad BMS. many emails and grey hairs later,
Mr ping exchanged my faulty BMS for a nice new one, and i have not had a problem since.
i now have just under 2000km on the combo, and it's been faultless since replacing the BMS.
if it's a Ping pack, i would be looking at the BMS as the likely culprit.
try turning the bike on, then lightly tap around the BMS board with your fingers.
if the bike turns off, you have the problem. that's how i found my issue.
it took me a few weeks to get to the bottom of my bad BMS.
Mr Ping was very helpful in trouble shooting the issue, and sent me the new BMS
immediately, even though i had not shipped the old unit back to him at that stage.
Jason.
in my case, it turned out to be a bad BMS. many emails and grey hairs later,
Mr ping exchanged my faulty BMS for a nice new one, and i have not had a problem since.
i now have just under 2000km on the combo, and it's been faultless since replacing the BMS.
if it's a Ping pack, i would be looking at the BMS as the likely culprit.
try turning the bike on, then lightly tap around the BMS board with your fingers.
if the bike turns off, you have the problem. that's how i found my issue.
it took me a few weeks to get to the bottom of my bad BMS.
Mr Ping was very helpful in trouble shooting the issue, and sent me the new BMS
immediately, even though i had not shipped the old unit back to him at that stage.
Jason.
I may be a bit late for this one but on my heavy duty E-trike I have two sets of 4 x 12volt acid batteries and changing over does not make any difference. I have to wait, jiggle the switch on and off and hope for the best! So far it has taken its time but finally come back on again!
Why two sets, independent of each other? That is up to twice as hard on them than if you wired them in parallel.
Do that and it eliminates the possibility that your switching system is the cause of the reported problem, as well.
Even if you dont want to do this for some reason, you should still bypass the switching system temporarily to eliminate it as the problem.
Other than that, just like other examples in this thread, check all your wiring and connectors for possible poor connections, bad crimps or solder joints, broken wire inside the insulation, etc.
Do that and it eliminates the possibility that your switching system is the cause of the reported problem, as well.
Even if you dont want to do this for some reason, you should still bypass the switching system temporarily to eliminate it as the problem.
Other than that, just like other examples in this thread, check all your wiring and connectors for possible poor connections, bad crimps or solder joints, broken wire inside the insulation, etc.
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