Deadly Looks; Me an' the Lipos' Gonna Die

Got the proper freewheels and finished up 2 bikes to race Grange this Sat April 7. But. . . my lo-power (2K) racer won't start. The infinineon controller gets pretty warm, and the 9 continent motor lurches a couple of inches when the CA is reset but nada. The CA reads 74.5Volt, right on for charged 18S lipo. The bike ran well with a little ?motor a few weeks ago so throttle OK. The itsy bitsy hall connectors may be suspect, had to use a magnifying glass to get the male JST connector together. Does it sound like 1 missing hall continuity

Anyone have these characteristics

Excepting that the bike won't shift into low gear for now, it's pretty sleek and handles like a throughbred..

Love the look of that bike, I hope you find the problem.

Controller getting warm after the motor cogs a tiny bit is definitely an incorrect hall to phase wire configuration.

Ypedal made a nice chart with all 18 or 21 or however many combos on it you can try and cross the off one at a time as you go. When you find one that moves it forwards, make sure you don't have a false positive! It will make it spin, but the no-load current will be huge and the motor and controller will get very hot very quickly, it means you've gotta move on and try new combos until one makes it spin for ~1amp of no-load current a WOT.

When connecting a new motor or new controller use only small throttle pulses or you can burn up the controller or motor or both by laying on the throttle. Also, take the chain off, so if you hit a reverse the pedal doesn't whack you. With a DD motor every phase combo has 1 valid hall combo, and every hall combo has 1 valid phase combo. The valid combo could be forward or reverse.

It sounds like your halls are hard to swap around, so first try the other 5 phase combinations swapping just 2 around at a time. If controller and halls are working, you will get a good smooth forward or reverse that has low no-load current. If you don't get a good combo, something else is wrong, and as Luke said don't be fooled by a false positive that does spin the wheel, just not as smooth sounding and current it high.

If you get a valid smooth reverse, then swap 2, any 2, and only 2 hall wires, and then go back and find the 1 of the remaining 5 phase combos that is the good smooth forward. Working with only 3 wires that have only 6 possible combos no spreadsheets or writing things down is required.

Also, get yourself a Lyen ebike tester. It's a great tool. eg In this case, you connect the halls to it and spin the wheel, and you know instantly whether the halls are functioning properly. It also tests throttle, motor phase wires, and controllers. Identifying the problem item is typically more than half the battle.

Oh, I almost forgot. Disconnect the CA until you get the motor running. Until you have the CA configured to the new setup it can actually prevent the motor from spinning up. That one bit even LFP when he was down.

John

Thanks LFP an' John;

Meant to study these things but don't get to it till it's a 'must do.' Will unplug CA, follow up on 3 motor phases, I've only tried direct color to color, and the bl : bl switch other 2. Then go into the halls. The 9-cont has the 5 hall colors which match the same 5 with the infineon, but will try everything.

Actually, e-mailed Lyen this am about several other topics. I'm sure he'll sell that tester you 2 are mentioning.

(off topic; Luke, you're D'oh reminds me of T-shirt a friend's boy asked me about yesterday. He wants 1 with a Tyranasaurus Rex on it that says, "If you're happy and you know it, . . . . D'oh :lol: )

JRH used this combo according to the Known to work thread:
Phase
Blue to blue
Yellow to green
Green to yellow

hall
Red to red
Black to black
Blue to blue
Yellow to green
Green to yellow


I think that's the same that I used, but I can't find my post(s) that show this, and I'm too lazy to get up and check.

After getting scoring for Grange ready I turned my attention to hall wiring combos. Ahah, noticed a culprit. When I plugged the Halls in, the green wire slipped out of the plastic housing a mm, kinda tricky to notice. When I'd disconnect, the green wire would retract back into the housing and the pins all appeared in place on visual inspection. When trying to put a corresponding pin into the green F JST it was closed, probably a tad of solder got in the wrong place. Yippee An easy fix and my hopes returning.

The magnifying shot is the fresh pin before crimping and last touch with solder iron.
All right, got 'er fixed up. Nothing, hmmm, try plugging the CA back in, whaaa. . . bike jumps full speed off its' workstand, a lipo burn smell in the air.

Now this is bad karma. Generally the batt box fits securely, only way to get it out is to 1st lift it upward. Yet to plug in the CA, it needed to be unstrapped. The bike landed somewhat upsidedown, batt box dislodged, pulled a harness wire up with a sharp 12ga solder scrapping a snug fitting swelled lipo causing a briefly potent short. Kabamm

All CA settings are default. I can clean up the situation, makeup a precise fitting harness that tucks away and stays put. A 2 lipo loss and lesson learned. Tuned the CA settings down so to progress with single 6S lipo. There's truly nothing now, now even a 1 inch bump when plugging in, resetting CA. Time to pass on getting my competitive bike rolling and just head off to Grange and have the most enjoyable Spring Break of years See ya'll there.

My trouble shooting question now is: what causes full throttle upon plug in Hopefully, another motor phase wire combo will remeady this, I'm running out of Lipo