I need advice-which hub motor

hello to every one,

I would like to rebuild my full suspension MTB to a e-bike and by so many hub motors I dont know which motor should I use.
My expectations are:
top speed: 40-50 kmh,
26" rim
battery :48v15 ah
rear hub
use: for level road
tires :slim tubes

I was looking for magic pie 3 motor which is the only one i can get in our country or maybe MAC 1000W rear kit or Crystalyte h3540.

So can you suggest me which one, and it would be nice if it it possible to buy it in europe

Thanks

There's too much to choose from. There's nothing wrong with buying stuff direct from China. Why would you want to donate money to a middle-man. There's sellers in UK, Holland, Italy and Germany. Where about are you? Thin tyres and hight torque motors don't go very well together. If you're looking for a ready-made plug-and-play kit, Frank at Xipi does one in UK, but relatively expensive. http://www.xipi.co.uk/Kits&Parts.html

You can get a perfectly adequate kit that will do 50kph from BMSBattery.com for about £400 - £500 including battery

Should be able to get a 9 continent 2807 / 9x7 motor in europe somewhere. Or get basicly the same thing from Emissions Free. the muxus dd kit. It will do 27 mph/ 45kph on 48v lithium. For a bit more speed, a 2806 motor from Grin cyclery would boost it to 50kph.

I've just liked the 9c and 9c clone motors a lot. They work fine, and are cheap and easy to find a seller of them. The newer versions make rear motor and disk brakes pretty easy, with no funky dishing.

Not knocking the pie, that even bigger than 9c rotor works good for hills. But a 9c on 48v climbs 10% no problem if you just pedal a bit.

But no particular reason not to go with something else that's real similar to a 9c, like you see on ebay for cheap, shipped from china. If your budget is strained. If not on such a tight budget, hard to beat the customer service from Grin.

I run an HS3540 on my 12s (48v) commuter, and I love it. I have a relatively flat commute (slight hills), and I hit 60kph on the down hills, and low 50s on the flats. It is awesome. Definately get a high speed wind motor if you live in a flat place, they can't be beat.

thanks for quick response and good informations I will try to find some seller in eu.

Why i would like to buy from Europe, because shipping costs are big this days, and when buyer in europe come to import takses, than the europe is not so green any more, I must pay 35 % import taxes in our country on total cost (item cost + shipping)

so if we look at 2806 set it cost 500 us + i guess 200 us shiping costs to eu = 700 us +35 % = 950 US = 770 eur

for that money i can get two magic pie 3 in our country

today i spoke with company who sells magic pi in our country and they told me, that they have two bikes with magic pie 3 which I can try, so i will first do that

Europe is a big place. Go to your user profile and put your country in the Location. Also, you can find all kinds of kits on ebay that will ship to Europe. Should be able to get a 48V 1000W rear kit for ~300$US minus battery.

thanks for your help,

when i was reading posts in this forum i found dealer for crytalyte in Europe.

So because i dont want pay import duties which are ridiculously high in our country I found only two options :
magic pie II or III from our country
or
crystalyte hs3540 from crystalyte eu

more inclined to buy crystalyte hs3540.

now first because I dont want to turn my full suspension scott to e bike which i need for normal fr use in our woods i need to buy new bike than comes e conversation so this is this winter project.

I have one more question for you.
What about using rc ESC ?

You'll want to use a regular Ebike controller. More durable, designed to shed heat generated driving big motors under heavy loads.

If you do choose the pie, it should be fine for road use. But the fastest top speed on level ground would be with the hs motor. Get the Ht if you have really really steep hills to ride up.

The decision was made. Because i will use e bike in urban places i decided to buy felt red baron.
Now because bike has 3-Speed Coaster Brake Rear Hub i need e-transformation on a front wheel, so the cry...3540 is no more an option.

What else for front wheel with 1000-2000w? I will exchange front forks with something like this, with disc brake:
http://chopshop.si/trgovina-deli-za-kolesa/vilice/electra-triple-clamp-fork/

what about crystalyte 2540? Does anyone have any experience with this motor?

That fork should work. I don't know about the clyte front motors, but the 9continent, or 9 continent copies like muxus can do 2000w fine. I believe they are close to the same magnet width, 25 for clyte, 27 mm for 9c. So I would guess that you could run a 72v 20 amp, or 48v 30 amp controller with no problems at all.

You'll want two good torque arms on that fork for sure though, if you run real power to the front hub.

At about 3000w in a front motor, things get shall we say, sporting? By 4000w it's loony tunes. Drifting a wheel on the front rather than the rear takes a ton of bike handling skill. It's not easy like drifting a rear tire.

When I raced my front hub bike at 110v 40 amps, I drifted a front wheel in a corner and crashed out of the race.


But 2000w front hub is very doable. Even 3000w is rideable if you are good.

Firs step was made, I bought bike (felt Red Baron). There were some problems, because bike was sold out in Europe, but i found some store in Germany where they have few in lagar (stock). Now I have another problem, they dont shipp in our Country so bike is waiting for me by my friend to end of november, when he comes to visit.

now iam trying to figure out which motor, batteries and controller should i buy and first of all how I would like to ride this bike.

I few days ago i had the opportunity to test this e bik kit on a mountain bike:
http://www.artas.hr/vozila/elektricni_bicikli_dijelovi.htm
Bike reach 40 km/h speed in a 100m withouth paddling on a level road -quite preforming for my expectations. Like I se it is N48 hub motor from 9CONT, but i cant find any information abauth it

I allso contacted this seller in Croatia for Crystalyte HS hub motor, but he said that he dont sell them yet because they are some problems with them (some vibrations)---anyone else know anything about this

now let's get to the facts:
40km/h on a level road
it must be front hub motor (because configuration of the bike does not allow the rear hub- if i use rear hub, bike wont have rear break)
I would like to use 36v sistem -batteries
i would like to use Lyen controller: 12 fer 4110
----------------------------------------------------------------
What can I expect from this set up

I think magic pie will be too slow- unless i use 48V
HS2540 ????????????????????????????

dogman some questionsf for you:

what do you think about this batteries:

1.
http://www.ev-power.eu/docs/pdf/GWL-LFC-Specification-LFC015Ah.pdf

22 usd /piece in Europe

2.
http://www.servovision.com/Battery/Batterry%20LithiumFerrumPhosphate%20LiFePo4%20cell%20aluminium.html

12usd /piece for 8 ah in china

Don't forget torque arms. On a front hub you can get yourself killed without them.

thanks, i wont

another question which wires should I use between motor and controller(motor in front wheel, controller behind the seat; cca 2m long) 10 or 8 awg ?

12g will be fine for that power level, 20 amp controllers. I push it a bit, but have no problems pulling 40 amps through 12g. Let me peek at the battery links and I'll be back.

Either of those batteries look adequate for use in 15 ah size, with 20-30 amp controllers. I have no idea how the companies are to do buisness with.

My recomendation for city commuting bikes with 20-30 amp controllers is still the 48v 15 ah or 36v 20 ah pingbattery. We know and trust Li Ping. But his stuff is often pricy compared to others. His customer service is good if it's needed, but the limitation of you are there and he's in china remains.

while iam waiting for the bike (yes i still didnt get it from Germany- but i will in 14 days ) I started building front led light:

I will use 6x cree xpg modul with 25 deg. lens and home made driver for it- and 21x5mm led for ring

so far so much.

the bike has arrived, now the game begins

Nice light, and nice bike. Is the bike steel or aluminum?

I have a Felt Little Bastard that I am now thinking about converting. It's a single speed aluminum frame with 110mm rear drop outs.

Good luck with your bike.

Today I receive new foks

because i want as clean as possible conversation I decided for Magicpie 3 motor

for next e conversation I will use HS3540 motor

Today I received the engine
now I have one big question for you.Because motor shaft is bigger than the original, engine doesnt fit perfectly (deep enought) to the fork.

What do you think. Is this it enough, or should I increase grooves?

What about tourque arms. Is it so good enough or should i use complet tourque arm?

You couldn't pay me to ride on that. If I had to use what you have, I'd make some custom torque plates the complete width of the fork and either weld it onto the dropout, and/or drill 2 holes to bolt it solidly to the fork. Nothing less than 3/16" steel and dropping at least enough for the axle nut to make contract with all of it.

You have to make sure the axle washer with tab fits flat against the dropout. In the pictures ostalo-391, -396, and -398 you can see where the top part of the washer falls into the quick release cup while the bottom part rests on the dropout lip. You won't be able to properly tighten the axle nut flat against the washer like that. So you could use an ebike.ca C-washer

or something like it to fill the quick release cup. A couple good threads on the subject below.

dogman: Fitting Front Hub Motors to Quick Release Forks.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14222

mwhens: Help with installing the last 400 series crystalyte hub.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=31521

ko

I increase axle space in forks, so that axle now fit perfectly in forks. I also found axle washers. For safety reasons I will use two torque arms.
Something like this, what do you think:

I hope those forks are steel? I use 2 torque arms on my wifes front motor (9C)USX in steel forks. That type of torque arm should go behind the fork tube, not ahead of it. Remember the axle wil rotate opposite the direction of the wheel. You want the arm of the torque arm to be pushed up the tube, not down. Or you could weld the torque arm pieces after bolting them correctly. Magic Pie is a very high torque motor! Just my 2 cents.
otherDoc

they are from steel. Yes I will weld them together after bolting them correctly. After I weld them I will put the right one behind the fork tube (now it is impossible because of bolt), but left one will stay in front of the fork tube because behind will be disc brake calliper.

Ok I have one more question

Is it ok if i dont use inside washer shown in the picture? Because If i use it, than the rim is out of the fork center to the right.