Good to know. Do you have any details on the "revised" sun gear? My motor is doing fine, due to good advice from you and a couple of others, but would it be worthwhile to change it out pre-emptively?d8veh wrote:I have to congratulate Xiongda on their after-sales support. My controller stopped changing to low gear after three years and 4000 miles, plus, a friend broke her ring gear on a trike when she pushed it backwards. Xiongda provided me with the sideplate, ring gear and revised sun gear plus a new controller, LCD3 and HAL switch for $45 including shipping to the UK.
Bonnie wrote:From our point of view, as manufacture, we hate to see a motor get dumped just because of some small problems. if not about money, it's about the time we spend on producing one, and it may run good for years!
Ozzzz wrote:Iv'e been building the disc version into a 27.5" rim (in another thread). It's going on a 135mm steel frame so I just spread the drops a bit.
Lately iv'e been thinking I'd like to try the same wheel/mtr into a Montague (alloy 27.5" ready folding frame), at '135mm. IIRC the only rear disc options are 142mm and 170mm with disc?
Can I just take the round shoulder off on the drive side (7mm), I think this would work, and still as a 5/6 speed freewheel.. but am I missing something else (other than nthe mtr then not fitting the 142mm frame)? The disc-side fitting should be unchanged.
All true, but I think X screwed themselves with nylon gear problems, clutch problems, and bad lubing, when their line was first offered. Between help from Bonnie and folks on these fora I've been happy so far with the performance of my 48 volt, "skinny" version, But folks don't to take the chance on something novel that has horror stories of untimely failures, complete with shots of chewed up innards.flyingpants wrote:So... It's been over 3 years, where is the larger 48v 30Ah version? This could replace almost every motor including BBSHD.
Gear for better efficiency and longer range - climbing at 7mph, cruising at 20mph.
You could achieve the ebike dream - comfortably using only one gear (44/14) for both cruising and climbing. No changing gears on your part. When you reach a hill you are simply pulled upwards like on a ski lift, and you add power by pedalling slowly if necessary. All with no ridiculous discharge rate, or inefficiency, or overheating. Then you go back to cruising at 20mph with minimal pedal assist.
Could you elaborate on what you mean by "48 volt, "skinny" version"?bigoilbob wrote:I've been happy so far with the performance of my 48 volt, "skinny" version,
Um. There is only 80mm travel and I have it on pretty much the softest setting. It's to protect my 60y/o old spine with 2 medically fused vertebrae, not leaping of the top of mountainsknutselmaaster wrote:But a hub motor in your rear wheel will probably disturb the suspension a lot.
It's a 50mm wide by 22mm diameter plain bushed bearing -- that's bigger than the suspension arm bushes on many cars -- that only has to travel about 5° or 6°, so I don't anticipate any problems there.knutselmaaster wrote:You should also verify if the pivot of the rear fork is strong enough to cope with the forces applied by the motor.
This is the drawing she sent me: The 36.5mm matches well, with a mm or two to spare with the 7-speed cluster on my bike.Ozzzz wrote:It's a wide motor. I have an message from Bonnie saying 5sp/145mm but I couldn't even see that happening for me. If anyone else has a 7sp/145mm disc i'm interested too.