New rear hub motor instead!

So I've put the front hub motor problem on hold http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61251. I couldn't get it figured out; first I thought it was a hall sensor on the yellow wire and then I thought it was the wire itself due to low voltage. I could not find any breakage in the wire although it was only showing 0.24V, and for the life of me could not get the wire back into the axle hole! I do plan to revisit this project soon!

I installed a rear hub motor (48V 1000W) and took my first ride from work home yesterday. I am very pleased with the performance! I used my 2010 Trek 4300 for the install and I like the look. It originally came with a 100mm with lockout fork but I filed the dropouts too much to make the front hub motor fit, and on my first attempt at a test ride it snapped like a twig! I had a rigid fork installed as a replacement thinking I would be using the FHM, but you know the story. The RHM was bought on eBay and came from Yescomusa.

UPDATE: It's been a little over a year now since I installed the 48V 1000W Yescomusa RHM on the Trek, and it is still perfroming great!! I haven't even had a flat tire or broken spokes, the wheel still spins true! The only thing I had to replace in regards to the kit, was the PAS disc. I honestly think I may have over tightened the pedal arm and warped it though. I have to say I usually only use it as a pedalic system, and one ofthe only times I used the throttle was when i was waiting for my new PAS disc to arrive.

I would just have to assume the throttle would still be working fine, even if i used it on a regular basis. I run 3 18.5V LIPO packs to power it. I usually keep it in PAS level 2 or 3 for my commute home from work, it's uphill but not too bad. I use level 1 or 0 going to work, as it is downhill. I pick my son up from daycare about 2 or 3 times a week, he loves riding in his wee-ride with dad!! I used to use a trailer and he would just kind of sit back and stare out of the window, but with the wee-ride he's talking to me and waving at people. He's two yrs. old.

Here is the kit I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V1000W-26-Rear-Wheel-Electric-Bicycle-LCD-Display-Motor-Kit-E-Bike-Conversion-/371289491857?hash=item5672940991 I never installed the disc brake assembly though.

Finally tackled the task of replacing the rear tire. The kit came with a 26x1.75in. tire, I now have a 1.5 in. tire on it. Now both front and rear are the same size and brand. I also installed the brake disc, more for looks. Because of the rear rack I cant fit the caliper on, but if I ever decide to use it at least it will already be installed.

Looks like Continental Town and Countrys. I had a set and they were ok, but a little slipery at times.
You deffinately should have gone the other way on the sizes. There isn't an Ebike out there that doesn't benifit from the largest tires that fit the rims, it your case 2.0's.
Like your bike stand, it appears to large enough to do the job.

I hear ya, motomech! The main reason was because I already had the tire so I didn't have to spend the money, and it was the mate for the front one anyway. These are the tires I ran before I converted the bike. Once these wear out I might look into a larger size, I've never had any issues so far with these. The brand is Serfas Drifters.

I run sefas and love them they have a Survivor Series with an extra layer of Kevlar. Do you have a torque arm ? Be nice to have the battery in the triangle. Will it fit ? Lot of weight on the rear with aluminum frame. Rear hub is the way to go.

I never installed a torque arm, the nuts that came with the kit have been sufficient enough. I do check things periodically and to date have never uncovered any issues! The battery pack is already in the triangle, that black bag holds it. I only run 3 18.5V 4,500 mAH LIPO batteries in series, it does the job for my commute. I can charge at work. I only use it as a pedalic, so it never really sees full power, so that may be why I haven't needed a torque arm. If I ever use level 4 or 5 it's usually to beat a light countdown, and then I dial it down again. I usually have my two year olds Wee-Ride on the rear rack when I have to pick him up from daycare, it then mounts in front of me when he rides.

I'd get a torque arm (or 2), especially with a baby on board, you can never be too careful.

Two years and it's still going strong!! I did break one spoke a few months back when I forgot the gears were in 3/8, and I cranked on the pedals from a stop in PAS L-1. I heard a ping type sound and wanted to kick myself!! Surprisingly however the wheel is still rollin true, and I still have not had a flat!! The 3 18.5V 4,500 mah LIPO batteries have lost some of their freshness, but are still perform well for the 5 mile commute I do. I'm still operating it as a pedalic bike, the throttle stays unplugged.

YonderGod said:

I'd get a torque arm (or 2), especially with a baby on board, you can never be too careful.

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Although the setup has worked fine without them for 2 years now, they are highly recommended by many people! I will look into adding them; thanks!!

If the dropouts are steel, you don't need torque arms at all as long as you have the wheel mounted properly. It's just a waste of time and money. I've been running mine without them for over 5 years on 24s lipo at 40A and regen braking. Used to check the axle nuts nuts to make sure they were tight, but haven't done that in a couple of years. Got close to 20K miles on it.

wesnewell said:

If the dropouts are steel, you don't need torque arms at all as long as you have the wheel mounted properly. It's just a waste of time and money. I've been running mine without them for over 5 years on 24s lipo at 40A and regen braking. Used to check the axle nuts nuts to make sure they were tight, but haven't done that in a couple of years. Got close to 20K miles on it.

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Thanks! I honestly have not had any issues in that area, but I also wonder if it's because I never give the bike full power.

Once I crushed the spacer on the axle, I installed a jam nut on the inside. Never had a problem since.

wesnewell said:

Once I crushed the spacer on the axle, I installed a jam nut on the inside. Never had a problem since.

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Thanks for the tip, sir!!

Just a little update: The kit is still performing great! A few months ago I came across a KONA mtn. bike that has hydraulic disc brakes and front suspension w/lockout, so I bought it! I transferred the kit to the Kona frame. The suspension fork was no good however, it would compress even in lockout mode, and would not spring back up. I bought the bike mainly for the brakes, so it wasn't too much of an issue. I put hose clamps around the fork tubes and pretty much made it a full time rigid fork.
As luck would have it, a friend of mine had a remote lockout fork from his 29er sitting in his garage that he had upgraded from. He gave it to me for free! When I went to install it on the Kona, I found that it was too short to fit through the frame. Fortunately it fit my Trek Marlin 7 29er mtn. bike, and the fork from my Marlin 7 fit my Kona! So I swapped the OEM Marlin 7 fork for the remote lockout fork, and installed the OEM Marlin 7 fork onto the Kona. Everything worked out!

Maybe that cheapo DD isn't so bad. Nice clean ride, sir.

neptronix said:

Maybe that cheapo DD isn't so bad. Nice clean ride, sir.

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Thank you! I still ride it primarily as a pedal assist and it hardly ever sees level 4 or 5, so that may be helping!