As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Is LC a genius ???????? In loudspeakers efficiency trumps wattage and for an amplifier Dynamic headroom trumps wattage. If it is not rated in RMS measured at 1 watt 1 meter it is a bogus rating.
One down and one to go.
there is another scooter which is bigger and might have a larger motor. I got to dig it out tomorrow.
Basically I was told by the landlord that everyone in the apartment (six other persons) were getting a 72 hour eviction notice if I were to leave again. The landlord stuck up for yours truly. I plan on buying a TV from Wall-Mart next month for $500. Hysense 65 inch 4K - HDR (High dynamic range) scenes in dark have much better texture. It is 70% off and was told by the store clerk that they will have them next month in September.
I plan on moving the first of October as my roomates will be rolling out also as Dougs girl scored a job for $15 an hour at a store in Albany.
I am putting stuff in storage. I do not like those scooters so am removing the motors for future builds. The dual motor cargo bike has a large Unite motor on the front which is 36 volts and 800 watts but at 24 volts and 533 watts. Gearing is
Basically that will give me a 36 volt 800 watt motor to work with for another build and if the other scooter has a larger 36 volt motor I may have another dual motor project but if not I still have the 20" 800 watt hub motor on the back of that 20" bike in storage. I am thinking about putting the 800 watt hub motor on the front and the 800 watt Unite motor on the back for 1,600 watts.
I will need to run the 20" hub motor by itself to see what the top speed is then order a motor sprocket for the 800 watt Unite motor to match the top speed of the hub motor. 1,600 watts total with both motors I should be able to climb about any hill. Thanks.
PS. I was discussing audio with Doug. He has a decent Pioneer system. 390W four channel equal output system , preamp and amp separate. I am showing him how to get four times the bass output with two horn loaded band-pass subwoofers which I would love to build sometime in the future.
I am familiar with Decware's The wicked one and bill Fitzgerald's the auto tuba but both designs require woodworking skills far beyond my capabilities. Studying those two designs and also the death box 2 where the speaker port is adjustable and can be moved up or down depending on the VAS and QTS and FS of the driver.
My design shall do the same but instead of a port it is a horn I will be tuning to get the maximum SPL levels at around 30 HZ or where the cutoff is for human hearing. There will be a compromise if I use 18" drivers as lower than 20 HZ I believe is felt more and not heard so moving the insert which will determine the horn effect shall be an interesting experiment. Also hopefully it will be a much simpler design to build.
This can be done with thin flexible wood paneling for the curve and 3/4" plywood for the other three dimensions with insulation inside and carpet stapled on the outside of the insert and also carpet lining the inside of the box. It will need to be a very tight fit to be successful but making the insert a little small can be made a little larger with another layer of carpet around it.
When the perfect bass level at the desired frequency is obtained at the center of the room then Screws can hold it in place. Not much power should be needed to find the sweet spot with a frequency meter. 10W / 10 feet should work. LC is a genius.
The bottom picture shows the sub-woofer design and the left shows optimum placement in a room approx. 30 feet wide and 24 feet long. That is not the final blueprint just a rough guess. I may have to experiment with other positions for the subs depending on where the maximum impact is or at what distance the subs will sound the loudest.
The larger the sub the farther. Normally an 18" sub will need 15 to 18 feet I believe but think when using two drivers in an Isobaric push pull configuration the VAS = 1/2 they will sound loudest at 1/2 distance but need to check that. It has been awhile since I studied it.
I believe my speaker placement diagram to be similar to an 8.1 Surround design. Since the 65" TV will be in the front center the subs should not be anywhere near it as the magnetic fields will damage a TV. Only a small shielded center speaker over the TV or the existing speakers in the TV could be used for the center channel.
If DA or anyone here has knowledge which could help please let me know. Basically I have the original woofer tester but software is on floppy disks so would entertain more modern software to calculate Vb1 and Vb2. I believe Vb1 being the sealed side of the enclosure and Vb2 the ported side which is adjustable for the horn effect.
I would be willing to team up with someone as brilliant as DA to create and continue on from the design to the production stage and possibly do what I wanted to do back in 1995 which is a career in the home and car audio field. Please let me know. maybe we can patent something so shoot me a PM if interested. Two genius's are better than one.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.