new eZip motor

[DAND214]

dynamic operation, a small motor with high performance.


Electric Motor for Go Kart, 48V, 2000W
Forward & Reverse Rotation
The motor can run forward or reverse simply by reversing its power wires

Read it all. They have no idea what they are sellimg and don't care.

I wish you would give up on the suicide set ups. What will we do when you stop posting

Dan

[DrkAngel]

I wish you would give up on the suicide set ups. What will we do when you stop posting

Dan

I could easily help get LC to 50mph ... only consideration would be him naming me as his life insurance beneficiary ... !

[markz]

Looks like Biden will be throwing more relief money our ways.

Wooooohooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Spend Wisely

I'd say Leaf 1500W on 52V 80A controller

[latecurtis]

Yea Markz but thought you said you live in Canada ? Are they doing the same thing. I heard there are like 80% fewer COVID cases up there than down here. My grand father on my fathers side was from there and am related to a lot of folk up that way. I think Nova Scotia area but not sure. Have to ask one of my half brothers. They used to go there every year for about two weeks. I never went as had felonies and could not obtain a pass port. I wanted to go to get out of here.

I went to the bike shop yesterday and the new rim is in for the hub motor. I paid them 40 bucks so have 64 bucks in it now. It will be done Wednesday. next week. I put the 89T sprocket on the free wheel and they removed the cassette and when I got home realized I could not use disk on the front so worked on the bike and got V brakes for the front now like I did for the Giant Roam. In fact I took them off the Giant and will need to buy another for that. I could not get the brake pads to line up with the rim and were hitting the tire so wedged that block of wood in there to force the bracket down about a half inch. Now it lines up perfect.

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Today I am painting it all black. The chain should be in next week so looking at the end of next week for a test run. The Hub motor will go on the back. I ordered a 36V - 1,000W brush controller for the front motor but will take a month to get here so will run my 36V - 800W controller until then.

12/24/20 8:49 AM.

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Hey. I really wish someone would help me out here as every hub motor I ever had came in a kit and I always had the controller that went with the motor. This is the first time I had to get a controller for a hub motor.

I would like a straight answer. DAN sent me a 500W brushless controller and would love to hook it up tonight and test the two Bafang hub motors. One is a Christmas gift for someone and could hook it up for him tomorrow on the Schwinn Ranger I gave Mike with that controller. The second I was going to put on the front of the Currie e Zip Trailz as the chain drive in the back is loud as hell but could still use it up hills and get a break from the noise on the flat.

Please let me know .

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Thanks.

LC. out.

[DAND214]

Separate the wires and take pics. Many hub kits are the same but then again many are not. So you find the power wires. Then the phase wires, and at many times will not color match. The hall wires also. You need to find the throttle wires and make sure red goes red and black to black. Then you might need to find the ignition or on/off wires. Not all controllers have them but most do. Forget the rest for now. Make sure the hall wires match red and black. The others might need to move around. The phase also might not match.

Any controller that doesn't come with a kit can be this way. Wrong plugs different, mixed wire color match. The most important is always the red and black wires, do not mix them up. Kits can be true, even with complete hub kits. Crossed phase color/wires are very common.

I don't remember if the controller I sent has "self learning wires"

Dan

[latecurtis]

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Merry Christmas to EVERYONE here on ES and especially those who post here.

I am worried about SUNDER. Have not heard from him for awhile now. I Only drank like two cans of beer Tuesday night as that happens sometimes. I just get sick of beer every night. Mike (Mary's son) showed up about 9:30 AM yesterday and was up all day and do not drink during the day. I went to the bike shop yesterday and when I got back was in my little e bike work shop until about 11 PM and went to get a 12 pack of my favorite beer and put one in the freezer and took it out and put it in the fridge and went to bed. I was so tired I knew if I sat down to watch TV I would not be able to stay awake.

When I do not drink I get up early and been up since 8:30 Am. I went grocery shopping with the van to get everything I need for the next two days. I am now going to Wall greens and getting the motors. I might haul the Currie up the stairs and test the motors if I can get the controller you sent to run them. I should be able to find a wiring diagram from Bafang on line hopefully.

Not sure how strong those hub motors are. It would be sweet if that site started selling used BMC or MAC motors. However If I can get a solid 350W from each Bafang at some Voltage level it should be more power and torque than a single e Bikeling 500W motor and Easy Street (the 700c Giant Cypress hybrid) ran great on 1 e bikeling motor and was ok up small hills with pedal assist so am considering two more Bafang motors at that price. (50 each WITH shipping). in January.

I am finishing my coffee and on my way to Wall- Greens before the snow starts flying. When I get back I will check Bafang's web site and see if there is a wiring diagram and will post pictures. That little flip phone is perfect for that as the pics are almost always < 512 Kb so don't have to screw with paint to reduce them.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[DAND214]

Call them and have them deliver it.

Dan

[latecurtis]

Wall- Greens is pick up only and less than a mile. I have all Fed X stuff shipped there as it won't get stolen. This neighborhood is not the best. You get what you pay for at $375 with all utilities included.

I don't see any snow yet and will be back in 15 minutes with pics.

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Took longer than planned. Had to do a last minute Christmas shopping run for the wife and just got back. The motors are larger than I thought. I would love to see how they run.

Yea. I do not want to cut those wires unless that is a last option. I need to find the controllers that they plug into. Two controllers.

I do not want to cut those wires. I don't like cutting wires. Not sure if an adapter is possible ???

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks.

LC. out.

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/BAFANG-Hub-Mot ... Swr4pfNsrU

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Looks like it has the plug but think I need 36V. Motor might destruct @ 48V.

https://www.ebay.com/i/323631524506?chn ... 30EALw_wcB

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Well hopefully they have just the female connecter for a lower price. I could splice the wires into a cheaper controller I think I saw. Let me look.

[markz]

So you bought those used motor hubs, did you open up the cover plate and see the color of the windings?

[Chalo]

So you bought those used motor hubs, did you open up the cover plate and see the color of the windings?

Seems like more trouble/possible harm than it's worth, considering that these wheels were on dockless rental e-bikes with 250W systems. (I'm assuming these are batteryclearinghouse salvaged motors.) I'm sure it's possible to overheat one in that configuration, but I'm not sure how you'd do it.

I built one up the other day, with Ebikeling electrical bits. It runs strongly at 500W nominal (22A controller).

[markz]

I missed that part where they were dockless rentals. Thats more reassuring to Curtis because rental co's have a big responsibility to cover all the legalities and be well within them, and ebikes sold in stores have to follow suit. Here, they are not bringing back bicycle ebike rentals, only keeping the stand up scooter rentals and brought in a 3rd company and the season is only for 8 months of the year after which time they take all of them off the roads for service and storage. I tried to rent one once, I could not find it though the gps said it was somewhere it was not. I couldnt find it yet they still charged me, what a ripoff. I may try to rent one again and see what kind of power they have going up steep hills. I was thinking about making my own using my ebike battery in a backpack, 8 or 10" rear hub motor instead of the dinky rc motors though some of the bigger rc motors seem to spec a high wattage #.

Seems like more trouble/possible harm than it's worth, considering that these wheels were on dockless rental e-bikes with 250W systems. I'm sure it's possible to overheat one in that configuration, but I'm not sure how you'd do it.

I built one up the other day, with Ebikeling electrical bits. It runs strongly at 500W nominal (22A controller).

[markz]

OK I went back to read up from those cheap motors, I went to the website and they don't ship to Canada which is nothing new or out of the ordinary. Even from Utah to Alberta was $100 for a laced hub from private seller but I wanted something else.

So after skim reading I didnt find anywhere that anyone said those hub motors were rentals, but it makes sense. I doubt you'd have to worry about damaged gears on such low power levels. The only thing to worry about would be on how true the wheel is, did they use quality rims and how would you know if they used quality spokes and nipples.

Along with skim reading, I noticed in a picture that Curtis flipped his front brake around to fit the contraptions he likes doing. We can hope he is diverting away from contraptions to hub motors on a more permanent basis.

[Chalo]

So after skim reading I didnt find anywhere that anyone said those hub motors were rentals, but it makes sense.

All the clues are there. Zillions of withdrawn dockless e-bikes in the last year. Barely touched, better than OEM quality tires on the ones I got. Bafang 250-350W motors (not the first choice for private buyers, but common as dirt for dockless e-bikes). Surplus liquidator with lots of identical motors on hand. It doesn't take a detective to figure it out.

I should probably get a few more while the getting is good. Too bad extra spending money isn't really a thing lately.

[latecurtis]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-36V-22A-Co ... 1195.m1851

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Well that is some fine detective work my friend, Thank you. It makes sense that is they were running low power 11 to 15 amp controllers then these motors should work great. I just hope they were tested.

I can live with 22 amps and 500 watts. I am still checking the specs. on those motors but am thinking they should run as well as my 500W e bike ling motors. If so I will probably be ordering two more for the 700c Hybrid. (Easy Street) In fact these motors are slightly larger than the e bikeling motors I own. I noticed that right away. Also I have saw plenty of parts for them on e bay and now that I found suitable controllers I should be good. The e bikeling controllers are also 22 amps.

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It would seem looking at the rpms of each motor that Bafang sacrificed speed for power. However I see two different rpm. ratings on the Bafang and just one on the e bikeling so it is not clear to me which motor has a faster top speed. DA. might know and could post a graph as since I own two of each motor now am interested. 45 Nm torque would mean that the Bafang motors should be better up hills ???? I may not put two on Easy street as am looking for more power and speed but if I put a 3 Kilowatt motor on the back of the Haro V3 then why not a Bafang on the front for flat when I do not want to go 30 or 40 mph like in the city.

I will be ordering two of those controllers on the 4th of next month or right after I pay my rent as long as these two are both working and not making a lot of noise.

If anyone knows how fast in mph a Bafang will go with a 22 amp 36V - 500W controller please let me know. Also what the cap or voltage limit is on that controller I listed as with custom battery packs I could easily run 11S or 45.65V for about 3 mph more top speed.

There is also the possibility of lacing the motor into a 700c wheel automatically adding 3 mph to the top speed. If I can get > 20 mph from two Bafangs on Easy Street I would consider doing it. Either way am keeping my eye on Battery Clearing house for more deals.

Please post more on this topic if you can.

Thanks.

PS.

I got the paint done and left the shiny bolts for an awesome custom Mad Max look. I thought my V brake mount came out just fine. As long as it works I am happy. I could order a rear 26: rim with disk and just might do that and run both disk and V brakes on the front like I did with the Currie but this bike will have rear disk. The Currie has no rear brakes due to the 2 by 6 I used to mount the rear motor.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[Chalo]

There is also the possibility of lacing the motor into a 700c wheel automatically adding 3 mph to the top speed. If I can get > 20 mph from two Bafangs on Easy Street I would consider doing it. Either way am keeping my eye on Battery Clearing house for more deals.

Heavy though I am (>350 lbs), I got up to 20+ mph on the flat with just one of those motors and an Ebikeling controller. Unloaded speed was a little over 25mph on a 36V battery. (I relaced the motor as a 700c wheel with 42mm tire, 27.7" outside diameter, so these speeds are for that wheel size.)

The bike I converted was a Jamis Coda S2, which is a bog standard steel framed hybrid selling for $679 this year. I think it was a great candidate for this conversion.

I would not use a controller with higher current than 22A, both because of the risk of overheating and because of the limitations of the 9 pin plug and small gauge phase wires. But 22A seemed okay.

[latecurtis]

Heavy though I am (>350 lbs), I got up to 20+ mph on the flat with just one of those motors and an Ebikeling controller. Unloaded speed was a little over 25mph on a 36V battery. (I relaced the motor as a 700c wheel with 42mm tire, 27.7" outside diameter, so these speeds are for that wheel size.)

The bike I converted was a Jamis Coda S2, which is a bog standard steel framed hybrid selling for $679 this year. I think it was a great candidate for this conversion.

I would not use a controller with higher current than 22A, both because of the risk of overheating and because of the limitations of the 9 pin plug and small gauge phase wires. But 22A seemed okay.

Yea. AWSOME.

Two motors will work then. I will use two. Front and Back. It is my style. I have been building dual motor e bikes for years now. You can too. If they have a lot and they work then I am buying more. Up hills two motors , controllers and batteries is less strain than a single system. I have dual wall 700c rims front and rear in brand new condition.

Thanks and Merry Christmas.

LC. out,

[markz]

I'd still prefer mid drive or hub motors over Unite MY#### motors.

This site might help, it was totally random first link I clicked.
https://www.motiondynamics.com.au/unite ... ocket.html

[latecurtis]

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Every one I look at won't be here until the end of January or the first of February. I wanted to order two more Bafang motors for that price but feel foolish ordering two more without testing the two I have.

The post office sent my soldering iron to the wrong post office and the 18650 cells are still not here so have no e bike projects to do. My #25H chain is not here either so that project is unfinished.

I am disgusted and I am board. It takes too long for items to ship. By the time they get here I may lose interest. This is terrible.

Where can I get a Bafang controller sooner. I at least want to test the motors and see if they in fact work at least.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[Sunder]

I am worried about SUNDER. Have not heard from him for awhile now.

Hey mate, thanks for caring. I actually came off my motorbike (still petrol) at speed without protective gear on. (Except the mandated helmet - it's pretty rare I ride without at least a jacket, though I usually go without kevlar jeans if my route is all 60km/hr or below).

No hospitalisation, but I was at a doctor's for a few hours getting patched up. You could see my knee cap through the hole in my knee.

After that, I just kinda felt a bit over it. I am going to keep my battery for a UPS, but thinking of whether to sell the motor and controller, or just give it away. It's worth about $1600 usd, but is pretty specific to my build. Not many people want a 144v controller, or a low speed winding Q273. If anyone on ES in Sydney was actually going to use it, I'd be inclined to give it away. Alternatively, I could get another donor and build with the intent to sell a finished bike, rather than ride myself.

Anyway, neither I nor my wife is all that keen to get me another motorcycle.

However, the Australian government has now officially said we should be working from the office. So it might be time to finish off those upgrades to the commute push bike, and get back on that. I was in the process of switching them to Zipp 302 carbon deep V wheels and a Rockshox commuter front fork when Covid hit and told to work from home. Was also trying to halve the size of my battery and get it to charge from USB for convenience. I'll probably do a custom mount for all of this to reduce the aerodynamic impact of using side panniers.

Anyway, I haven't really had time to read all the posts I've missed of yours, but if you need specific help, let me know.

[latecurtis]

I actually came off my motorbike (still petrol) at speed without protective gear on. (Except the mandated helmet - it's pretty rare I ride without at least a jacket, though I usually go without kevlar jeans if my route is all 60km/hr or below).

No hospitalisation, but I was at a doctor's for a few hours getting patched up. You could see my knee cap through the hole in my knee.

Glad to here you are still with us. Yea. maybe a lower speed < 30 mph commute would be a better option. It had to be a scary shituation. My accident in late July 2019 was minor and not at high speed and severely damaged my rotator cuff but it has healed. I turned a bad thing into a good thing though as after several x rays and Ortho doctors reports I became eligible for a state issued cannabis card due to chronic pain. It was not my only source of pain as I have a really bad knee and disk issues in my lower back but by adding that to the list became eligible for the card.

I have been advised against high speed and mostly travel 10 to 15 mph as have to deal with high traffic situations as well as pot holes and rough roads. It is why I am buying Bafang hub motors these days for < 20 mph as they are quiet and reliable.

I still want to go 40+ mph but only if certain conditions are met which include a bright sunny day , clear smooth roads and no inter sections where a car can pull out in front of me. Also am not looking to cruise for miles at 40 mph but just want to hit it briefly and have an onboard camera. Also it must be on the flat as anyone could coast down a big hill with a pedal bike and achieve 40+ mph.

Back 5 years ago with the 26" - 1,000W hub motor you sent I hit a broken section of road after dark and cracked a rib and also cracked the rim. I was only traveling between 10 and 15 mph. The hub motor was never the same. I did not realize the rim was cracked until recently when inspected at a bike shop here in Ohio. I replaced the broken spoke back in NY but the bike shook a lot riding it so was in storage for about 3 years.. I do not see well at night so just did not notice the broken shoulder of road back then.

No bike shop in NY would fix it due to the laws there but am now in Ohio and the bike shop is fixing it with a brand new rim and spokes. I will always keep that motor as long as it runs. In fact I took it apart and completely re - wired it as there was some damage to the motor wires and the sensor wires got cut attempting to put the cover back on but after some time had success in soldering all 8 wires and put it back together and tested it about a month ago.

The bike shop ordered a brand new rim but had to order new spokes as the new rim was slightly different so will be picking it up in the first week of January. It will go on the rear of my 26" dual suspension and already mounted a 1,000W Unite - 36V chain drive on the front with approx. the same gearing as the hub motor.

I could not do such a thing in NY but here in Ohio e bikes are legal and people drive dirt bikes , mini bikes and gas powered bicycles every day and the police don't stop them. It is the perfect place for me to build e bikes with two motors no pedal and 2,000 watts total power.

Thanks for posting and hope your holidays were great and have a happy new year.

LC. out.

[Chalo]

I was in the process of switching them to Zipp 302 carbon deep V wheels

Plastic toy bike parts are for playing around, not getting to work. If your need for transportation is serious, be serious.

[markz]

I am sorry but I thought Chalo was talking about latecurtis being serious about transportation, without reading to whom he quoted.

Well I could reword what I just typed like I wasnt typing in 3rd person seeing as how leisesturm is on about English skills at 4am and all. But whateva.

I was in the process of switching them to Zipp 302 carbon deep V wheels

Plastic toy bike parts are for playing around, not getting to work. If your need for transportation is serious, be serious.

[latecurtis]

I am sorry but I thought Chalo was talking about latecurtis being serious about transportation, without reading to whom he quoted.

Well I am not commenting about that.

Yea. I do not know what they even are. SUNDER has some serious builds I know that much but am not knowledgeable about wheels except those that have spokes. I have seen different wheels with no spokes but never ran them I don't think.

All I know is it was good to hear from SUNDER and hope he keeps posting. I am picking up my soldering iron today and the 18650 cells I ordered are at Wall Greens for pick up. I will be soldering cells together. I will be waiting at least another week though for the connecters and the balance plugs but should have some custom built packs together by the middle of January.

The hub motor SUNDER sent me will be like brand new when I hook it up in January to 12S - 10P as that is the voltage that that hub motor runs best at. I wont have pedal options running a front hub motor on the back but the hub motor will take a disk brake back there and my V brake will work up front. The bike shop will hook it up to the cable and calibrate it. I already asked them so my dual motor build will have both brakes working and will be 2 kilowatts total with 30 mph gearing.

If I run 56V rear and 48V front then 35 mph will happen but only if the controllers are capable. I won't bother if I have to replace both controllers as 30 mph is good and am still considering a 3 kilowatt motor for the back of my Haro V3 and 43 mph gearing.

I talked to the guy at the electric bike shop. A bike shop that specializes in e bikes and the guy said he has a controller to test the Bafang motors. I need to get out there as I want to order two more of those. I am already putting one on the front of the Currie e Zip Trailz , My first Cargo bike. It will also be a dual motor as it has the 750W gear reduction chain drive in the back.

I am giving away my second Bafang as a gift so want two more. I plan to have one laced into a new rim. A 700c dual wall for the front of Easy street (my Giant Cypress Hybrid) and the second for the front of the Haro V3. I would love to convert it to a rear motor for Easy street however that would be very difficult to do. I will need to look for a good deal on a rear geared 500W hub motor for the rear of Easy Street as I like running dual motors on most of my bikes. I might run a MAC or a BMC motor on the back and I still want a 1,500W direct drive for my 27.5" silver Dimond back but the 1,500W 48V motor must be able to handle 66V for 40+ mph. That won't require a front motor with that set up.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ebike-36V-500W ... 0005.m1851

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Well. That takes care of Easy Street. With that on the rear and a Bafang on the front it should be about the same as my Giant Roam with the two geared 500W e bikeling motors. I still have not even test drove yet.

Thanks.

LC. out.

[latecurtis]

I am not happy about this

I do not see any easy way to take these apart without a hammer.

That would destroy most of the cells.

Only one in the lot with the cover off.

I did google the battery.

It says 10.8V on the case ????? Makes no sense.

3.7 * 3 = 11.1. 10.8 / 3 = 3.6V - That is close to empty as 4.15V FULL * 3 = 12.45V That is way more than 10.8V. This makes no sense at all.

I just do not see how they can work with no terminals ?????????

How does plastic conduct electricity ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

I guess I got robbed.

If anyone has any advice I would love to hear it.

I should have just ordered a 20 Ah 48V pack already built.

This is going to be a major pain in the cojones


Thanks.

LC. out.

[Sunder]

I was in the process of switching them to Zipp 302 carbon deep V wheels

Plastic toy bike parts are for playing around, not getting to work. If your need for transportation is serious, be serious.

I just had more dollars than sense. I like tinkering with electric bikes, and I want to get to work.

Wanted a lighter bike and more efficient one for the commute (since I have stairs both in the commute and the end point, and I used exactly half my power. I figured if I could get it a touch more efficient, I could halve my pack size.)

I'm not trying to make it a cargo bike, or an indestructible all terrain bike. I just wanted a nice light efficient bike to commute pavement on.