Ekross Vector Aussie build

Hi all

have started this thread for my Ekross build Cowardly duck gave me great advise and suggested I start this thread

Hub is a Crystalyte HS4065 plan to run 18S 2P 15ah packs and around 60-90 amps

Marty from Scared Ride managed to track down a screw on 10 speed cassette.

Brakes are 203mm Zees 8)

So plan is to try and countersink CA V-2 into the front top en closer wont go all the way but just trying to make the co-pit cleaner.

has anyone done this and how did they mount it please?

cheers Conrad

Awesome stuff!

Amazed that you managed to fit that 10speed in there...never seen that before!

The previous Stealth design used to put the CA behind a cutout in the top of the frame. Mine is like that. Maybe you could do that and mount your CA from the inside instead of recessing it.
That being said, I (like many) did not like having it mounted so low...it's really hard to look at when moving along and it's far easier to see mounted on the handlebars.

Cheers

Thanks Cowardly duck

I tried sitting it on bars and top of battery box see below still UN-decided :|

Thinking about using 12 volt battery isolator switch for main pack Do you think they are OK?

Also have been playing around with battery layout, How hot do Lipos get on bikes I know my one in my RC Helli gets warm. Would I be wise to pack a 1.5 mm Aluminum sheet either side of pack to act as a heat sink?
but then I still need to pack out to sides of box with foam or something, see photo.

My controller doesn't get hot on my Trance and would like to keep it in the box to make a neat install with no wires hanging outside.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

kiwiev said:

Thanks Cowardly duck

I tried sitting it on bars and top of battery box see below still UN-decided :|

Thinking about using 12 volt battery isolator switch for main pack Do you think they are OK?

Click to expand...

No worries. You can always try mounting it on the bars for a while and if you don't like it then look into moving it down.

I don't use an isolator...at all.
So far though, I've never had an issue. I just have my controller on/off switch wired to a key switch for main bike power.
I wouldn't know if you can use that isolator, but if the whole battery power is going through it, you'll want to make sure it's pretty beefy!

kiwiev said:

How hot do Lipos get...

Click to expand...

That is entirely dependant on how much current they are putting out. By the looks of it you'll be running 4P, so your total amps of 60-90 divided by 4 is 15-23 amps per pack. I would halve the C rate they state they can give and if that's still above 23amps then I would say for at least the first 200 or so cycles, these cells shouldn't get hot at all. Also keep in mind, you will only be able to draw 60-90 amps for short bursts before heating up your motor, or you'll be up to speed anyway, so the cells will never see that much load sustained.
In other words...don't worry about it...with 4 packs in parallel, you'll be fine...as long as they are not complete fakes.

kiwiev said:

My controller doesn't get hot on my Trance and would like to keep it in the box to make a neat install with no wires hanging outside.

Click to expand...

I would not do that unless you give the controller a way to get it's heat out. You will end up turning your battery compartment into an oven! When the controller gets warm, it needs to use more amps to give the same power...that generates more heat (than it would if it were not so hot) leading to it then needing more amps again. It's a cyclic thing and eventually (probably once the weather starts to warm up) you will have a melt-down.

Others have taken the controllers out of the aluminium shell, and bolted the FET heatsink (where almost all the heat comes from) directly to the inside of the frame. I'm not sure if your frame has any metal parts to do that with though. Another option is to use thermal paste or pads to move the heat to the metal of the frame if it is metal. If you can heat sink the controller to the outside air somehow, that will solve all your problems giving you good cooling air flow and wire-free setup.

Cheers

I guess the isolator is just a EV I'm too use to I have a kill switch aka the big red oh crap button but mainly use it for maintenance.

Great idea Blake about CA if I put it on the handle bars first no holes in the top of frame. Btw it's steel skeleton with alumium epoxy pannel. So maybe I could put some vents at the top of the side pannel.

So I will take your advise and just foam in the batteries for now.

Cheers

Did a little bit of work on bike today centered up rear wheel in swing arm with on spacer washer so I have the cassette side with spacer on the out side and the diec brake side with spacer on the inside to center wheel.

Only drama is the disc rotor is further away from the caliper mount about 10-12mm so will have to make a spacer up

any ideas welcome

Also the Zee 4 pot caliper is slightly bigger and is fowling on hub so will have to space rotor away from hub maybe with a smaller rotor.

Do you think if I bolted the controller to the bottom of seat brake it would shed some heat

And I know the FETS arm on the side where screws are so is the any idea how I could to bond to the outside of the controller then to the frame?????

Thanks in advance KIWI

SORRY Blake

I had a man's look at your post I will try and take cover of controller and see if I can bolt a piece odds copper flat bar to the FETs abducted then bolt copper flat to bottom of seat braket. I have some 25mm by 4mm copper left over from my solar battery instalation.

Cheers

Hey, glad your making progress. Lining up the rear wheel, brake mounts, axle slots, etc, etc, is one of the most PITA things to do with E-Bikes IMO.
I've never...NEVER!...managed to get it perfect yet. Both on my Stealth and my Recumbent I seem to have endless issues with either movement...rubbing or both. I end up just getting it 'good enough' most of the time and leaving the perfecting of it for next time.

So...good luck! I really do hope you can get it working well...long term. That's the key. I have managed to get it all centred, not rubbing, etc for short periods of time, but you inevitably need to change a tire, or brake pad etc and can never get it the same again.

Cheers

Note to self when making posts turn off intuitive text lol.

Yeah I'm really impressed with the frame and swing arm there is so much space around the wheel

Cheers

So head is the copper strap I have its reasonably soft so cant use it to mount controller but I can put a twist in it to mount to frame.

I don't really want to take controller out of aluminum box try to keep some water proofing.
So I thought I would pop-rivet to top and use thermal paste. the down side is its not exactly near the FETs but there are ribs where the FETs are cant get the copper bond there.

Not sure :?

then use some aluminum channel to bolt controller and copper strap to bottom side of seat frame mount.

What do you guys think up for suggestions :|

I think that might work.
As long as there is a thermal path for the heat to take...and it's not too restricted...the frame will wick away the built up heat eventually.
You might just want to add a temp sensor to your controller to keep an eye on things...you don't want those Fets going much over 80C if you can help it.

Cheers

Thanks Blake its so good bouncing ideas off you

What it i silver soldered a 3/16" copper pipe onto the the copper strap and added small copper tank in the front near the fork steam where the air flow is best and used thermosyphon. My mates a plumber down here and uses it in heating systems without pumps.
Not really my area of expertise maybe others on here would know if this works or have tried this.

Cheers

Heat Pipes!
Now there's an idea!

Depending on how far it needs to go, you could potentially buy a CPU or GPU heat-sink with heat-pipes and use that.
Something like this:


...or this:

Might work well.

You can buy bare heat pipes and try and do it yourself, but there are so many different types of CPU/GPU coolers out there like this, I'm sure you could find one ready made that would fit well enough.

Cheers

Hey Blake where did you get your mud guards from they look really good best thing I've seen close to a motor bike look 8)

Also thanks for the thermo pad links interested stuff.

Cheers

Now we are taking that's where I got the idea for the copper strap from my sons lap top.


I love the heat pipe idea like a a mini turbo intercooler

I have an old desktop I might have a look inside.

Awesome stuff

Here are a couple of Photos I may be able to slip cooler pipes thru the bottom of seat bracket and have radiator in the seat bracket may keep the cheeks warm in the winter

or maybe even this a bit $$$$ but looks cool 8)

kiwiev said:

Here are a couple of Photos I may be able to slip cooler pipes thru the bottom of seat bracket and have radiator in the seat bracket may keep the cheeks warm in the winter

Click to expand...

I can see the perfect slot in that photo for you to slip a radiator through. I say go for it...measure up the size, etc and just buy one that fits.

kiwiev said:

where did you get your mud guards from they look really good best thing I've seen close to a motor bike look 8)

Click to expand...

My rear one was made for me by Kepler...like this:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=23996&hilit=kepler&start=2430#p635533
I later used a flame torch to heat it so I could re-shape the rear to curve to the profile of the tire more.
But that mod would only really work for the Fighter I think.
You could probably still use the Defender M2 though.

The front one is nothing special...I think it's also an M2...and it's my second as the first (Different one) was hopeless and fell off.

Cheers

Thanks for the info Blake

had to pull rear wheel off again Im getting good at it to mount an old rotor behind the 203mm rotor to space off hub. Just have cut and drill a spacer block for caliper and that should be it I hope.

Mounted the controller driller and tapped a hole in cross member for one end and made up a cross member for the other end with another tapped hole.

Ordered some 3mm thermal pad to clamp copper strap to side of FETs I looked on eBay and the Tip thru old computers couldn't find any heat pipes .

I had an old DELL I took the heat sink off CPU and trimmed it up it fits inside seat bracket just have to get copper strap to it. Also going to polish copper strap up. 8)

Ordered a GT 4000 watt 17 inch hub from Alex. Any suggestions what controller and battery set up I have a black frame waiting for something bad to be put in.

I think I will run the ZEE s 4 pot brakes but maybe better forks and go 24 inch front wheel any ideas grateful

Cheers