E Bike tires

Can anyone recommend E bike "ready tires". I've logged almost 2000 miles on my 1 year old 48 volt Evelo Ebike and have sustained 4 flats, two broken spokes and one blow out. The broken spokes I blame on Vermont's notorious pot holes and the flats to 2000 miles. Are tires designed for Ebikes superior to regular tires? I'm tired of flats.
http://www.evelo.com/electric-bicycles/aries/
http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/road_tires/energizer_plus

Thats a cool bike!
If you don't want the really heavy duty mx/moped tires and rims, a heavy innertube and downhill tire will probably fix all your flat and blowout troubles.

I don't know of any ebike specific tires, altho eastgem.net has some 24x3" tires that are almost as heavy as their 19" mx tire equivalents.

If you are just having trouble with pinches/flats/blowouts, look for a thick tube (slime thorn) and a thick sidewalled tire (hookworm?). Also make sure you're rims arent' really narrow compared to the tire, as this will increase pinches.

I've been running a lot of "Bontrager H2 Hard-Case Ultimate" tires which have served me very well. They are designed to be a puncture resistant tire that has two layers of Kevlar or equivalent built into them. One layer wraps all the way around from bead to bead with full side-wall protection and the second layer provides double protection for the running surface of the tire (but is not double on sidewalls to keep them still somewhat pliable for ride quality). I run over broken glass, staples, nails, and various other assorted road litter as well as ride right through pot-holes. Granted I also use wide tough rims and thick heavy duty tubes as well but still they seem to work great for me.

The H2 is a street tread tire but Bontrager makes some other tire styles in "Hard-Case Ultimate" toughness level as well such as the LT3 which is a general purpose tire that is knobby enough for most casual off-road use while still not being too knobby to run on hard roads as well.

Very happy customer here of the "Hard-Case Ultimate" line of tires from Bontrager. Should mention that if you find some older gently used tires from them the "Hard-Case Plus" was the previous name a few years back for the same line so they are good as well. Do stay away from the "Hard Case Lite" line since they only have a single narrow band of protection down the middle of the tire. You want the double layer protection where the first layer is a full bead to bead wrap around protection.

I ride in the world's toughest tire proving ground, a Mexican city, usually at nite. A lot of the stuff I run over I never even see, I just hear it crunching.
My Schwable Marathon and Marathon Plus tires have been worth their weight in gold.
The kevlar strips(LIke the tire described above)makes them a little squiggley in feel and 40 psi must be maintained for flat-proofing.
The Ebike specific tire you listed is too narrow at 1.75" X 26".
The Marathon/Plus go up to 2" and there is another model that goes wider.
If you try these tires, you won't look back.

Schwalbe make the ebike specific Energizer that has puncture protection. They also make the Marathon Plus, which is probably the most puncture proof tyre you can get.

Currently rolling with "stock" tires armoured with "Mr. Tuffy" liners installed between tire and tubes.

^ I have both branded Mr Tuffy tyre liners and hong kong knock offs from ebay (about a 3rd the price) on different bikes.

Both work equally well, the road bike (non ebike) was flatting frequently on the ultra skinny, super cheap, thin fast tyres within 300km of use. After putting the liners in, I ride on them until either their through or there so many glass holes I worry the tyre will fall apart. Probably now getting 1500km from each of the same tyres.

The ebike has the hong kong, wide knock offs. No punctures to report at all.

Better answer than buying expensive tyres because:-
- its cheaper. the knock off tyre liners were about AUD$10, new tyre AUD$30 = AUD$40 the first time, AUD$30 thereafter. Schwalbe Marathon tyres were closer to AUD$50 from memory?
- you can experiment with different tyres and have the same protection
- you can use tyres which are cheaper and wear out quicker than the Schwalbe Marathons. The advantage being you do not end up with old rubber between you and the road
- you can use tyres with lower rolling resistence than the marathons/marathons style tyres
- you can spend more on quality tubes because you know they are not going to get punctured. Personally I prefer Schwalbe as they are thicker than the cheapo variants and the valves are replacable.

I use Schwalbe Smart Sam Plus on my MTB and no punctures despite lots of offroad riding including some glass littered paths.

I wouldn't recommend those liners. Everybody that I know that tried them had punctures when the liners cut their tubes.

"Everybody that I know that tried them"? Interesting. So, you know a some significant portion of the buyers I guess?
(Note to self: Must remember to ask the thief that stole mine if she had the same failure.)










(Or he if it turns out to be a guy.)

Mr Tuffys cause flats. Take my word for it as a long time cycle mechanic. I have fixed scores of flats caused by chafing from "anti-puncture" strips. They might prevent some punctures, but they are the direct cause of others.

The market for all add-on flat preventives is the remarkable number of fools who'd rather pay $50 on an array of measures that might or might not work, and will cause other problems, and will harm the ride quality of the bike, instead of spending $50 extra on tires that would actually fix the problem.

As to what flat resistant tire is ideal, that depends on whether flat resistance is priority number one or a decent ride quality is more important.

Schwalbe Marathon Plus is a supremely puncture resistant tire-- but it handles poorly, rides truckishly, and exhibits peculiar wear patterns. It's a good choice for radically flat-phobic riders.

Panaracer Ribmo is a respectably fast, very comfortable, sharp handling, long wearing tire that happens to have excellent puncture resistance. It's a good choice for those who want to avoid flats, but not at the expense of incurring a lousy ride.

I have around 11,000 miles on my Giant DH Team and am just about to replace my rear tire for the first time. I use maxxis Hookworms and I haven't gotten a flat yet. With my high power ebike (16kw) my rear tire wears down a lot faster than the front. My front tire still has tons of tread.

The only problem I have had is I got a pinch flat from doing a wheelie over a large curb and dented my rim from it. I wouldn't really consider that a normal flat since it wasn't a puncture or anything and it could have been avoided.

In addition I used DH tubes that are 1.9mm thick compared to standard .6-.9mm thick tubes.

LockH said:

"Everybody that I know that tried them"? Interesting. So, you know a some significant portion of the buyers I guess?
(Note to self: Must remember to ask the thief that stole mine if she had the same failure.)










(Or he if it turns out to be a guy.)

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So, you know a some significant portion of the buyers I guess?

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Unless you have thought about it all, you are guessing.
D8veh is the "most connected man in Ebiking", visiting factories in China, buying and testing components and helping 100's and 100's of folks both here and over at Pedelec UK.
I don't get your gender joke(if that is what it is), but obviously, you have some issues.

motomech said:

Unless you have thought about it all, you are guessing.
D8veh is the "most connected man in Ebiking", visiting factories in China, buying and testing components and helping 100's and 100's of folks both here and over at Pedelec UK.

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That's cool. Didn't realize. Just going on my own experience. (Zero problems in hundreds of miles before the trike was stolen.)

I don't get your gender joke(if that is what it is), but obviously, you have some issues.

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Of course it was a joke. (Will try any keep it simplier for you in the future.)

Scott said:

I have around 11,000 miles on my Giant DH Team and am just about to replace my rear tire for the first time. I use maxxis Hookworms and I haven't gotten a flat yet. With my high power ebike (16kw) my rear tire wears down a lot faster than the front. My front tire still has tons of tread.

The only problem I have had is I got a pinch flat from doing a wheelie over a large curb and dented my rim from it. I wouldn't really consider that a normal flat since it wasn't a puncture or anything and it could have been avoided.

In addition I used DH tubes that are 1.9mm thick compared to standard .6-.9mm thick tubes.

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16000 watts, and 11000 miles on one tire? How can that be right? What are you using that even uses 16kw?

The blowout was probably because of the skinny rim you're running. Skinny rims and wide tires makes you more prone to pinch flats on potholes. Only raising your tire pressure or using a wider rim will cure that.

The ebike specific tires from Schwalbe are good, but they make better tires, that would actualy be better for an ebike. Like the Marathon. But the Ribmo is suppose to be better.

Tire liners chafe tubes. They work ok in skinny high pressure tires where the tube doesn't flex much, but in wider, lower pressure, comfortable tires, the flexing as the tire rolls will eventually rub the corner or edge of the liner through the tube.

My personal Fat free recipe is Maxxis Hookworm + DH 2.0mm tube + 4oz of tire slime. I have not had a flat with that combo in nearly 10 years and tens of thousands of miles. I've worn out many sets of the tires, and pulled out tubes full of thorns, staples, and even a random nail, but also still full of air.

i run marathons and they work well
i have thousands of miles
chalo is right though Mr Tuffys do cause flats. i experienced this. i added the liners for extra insurance, since the hub motors are heavy , i ride fast, and riding a cargo rig i simply cannot break down , it has to be bullet proof...
the first flat i had was fortunately overnight when the bike was parked. the chaffing between the tire liners and and inner tube ruptured the inner tube... anyway i had a few thousand miles on that wheel, i just replaced the inner tube and if this happens again ill ditch the tuffy... i also now put my tire psi up high, since that incident im probably upto a thousand miles so far so good

edit: Tue Dec 08, 2015 8:58 pm.
week ago my rear tire went..woke up in the morning to find rear tire flat. again there was a small hole where the mr tuffy crossed. there was also a small wrinkle in the mr tuffy as well, but i ignored that. the tire served well. i have replaced the inner tube and put the mr tuffy back. the one thing i love about mr tuffy is even if the inner tube gets a hole, its so stuck to the inner tube that it keeps it plugged till i get home as i usually only realize the tire is flat next morning. i dont think ill take the mr tuffy off even if it causes rubbing, as i have too much weight on my cargo rig and i need it. when i inspected the mr tuffy i found alot of dents in it , probably caused by going over debris , rocks and crap on the side of the road.

new edit: feb 7, 16
edit: Sat Jul 02, 2016
no flat yet but getting close to 8k
http://www.bikeforums.net/general-cycling-discussion/354517-do-mr-tuffies-wear-out-tires.html
my rear tire developed a small bulge and the tire has a hop to it
upon inspection it was close to the area where the tuffy's overlap.....not good
i think its time to dump the tuffy's - strange the front tire has the tuffy's and didnt develop this problem. perhaps the liner wasn't sitting right or shifted somehow.. not sure... still regardless the tire developed a bulge.

edit Jul 04, 2016
on 2nd i took the inner tube out and put a dollar bill on the inside of tire where there was a chaffing
today on my ride home was 40 meter away.. got real lucky my real tire got flat
so the tuffy went back in.... i went thousands of km,s without this problem
i guess my rig is just too heavy to live without them

edit: jul 7

my rear tire blew up- the bulge ripped
i was 10 miles away from home ended up getting picked up

jjul25
new marathon tire on rear with no tuffy- so far so good
front tire has tuffy and no issues still
i believe that rear has all the weight, and the tuffy chaffing inside the tire ruined it.. so i now carry a patch kit and go tuffy free

I wouldn't recommend those liners. Everybody that I know that tried them had punctures when the liners cut their tubes.

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The market for all add-on flat preventives is the remarkable number of fools who'd rather pay $50 on an array of measures that might or might not work, and will cause other problems, and will harm the ride quality of the bike, instead of spending $50 extra on tires that would actually fix the problem.

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I got the idea from a cycling forum. Curious, the original poster there was also flamed by hearsay and third party accounts.

I bought Vittoria Randonneur tyres for the road bike on the basis of the same hearsay and third party information. Sure, they punctured less - but the difference in rolling resistance was notable. Compared to the usual road/race tyres, they just weren't suitable. Ditto for Schwalbe Marathon tyres.

So despite the claims of chaffing, tube rupturing, "it just can't work because it logically shouldn't" mentality, I bought them, tried/tested at length and I haven't had tube chaffing issues. That's a first hand account, of both Mr Tuffy's genuine AND the knock offs. Interesting the knock offs are on the ebike which has lower pressure, 2.25" tyres - no chaffing issues, no punctures.

I have already detailed there is more to making this choice than just price.... Maybe they have more problems with hub drive motors given the less even split of weight between front and back?

nutspecial said:

16000 watts, and 11000 miles on one tire? How can that be right? What are you using that even uses 16kw?

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I have a Giant DH Team with Kiwi dropout adaptors, Cromotor, zombies EB324 (135v 150 amp controller). I dynoed it in at 13.14 hp. 16kW is of course the peak I normally average around 50 Wh/m. The last 6 months/1500 miles or so I have been using an Adaptto Mini-E controller and I haven't hit over 5kW of power.

Now that I think of it 11,000 miles doesn't seem right. My CA said around 9,700 the last time I checked it but when I do the math of how far I "think" I have ridden it looks like 6,000 miles for commuting + lots of joy riding. When I get my CA working I'll send a picture.

Up to this year I have been using Schwalbe Marathon Plus 26 X 1.75. I now have changed to Maxxis Overdrive 26 X 1.75.

The Maxxis Overdrive are very alike to the marathons with puncture protection rubber insert and reflective white walls

The Maxxis Overdrive retail for about $ 45.00 CDN
The Schwalbe Marathon Plus retail close to $55 to 60 CDN

I have ridden the Overdrive for a bout 5oo KM so far and NO FLATS and seem to be long wearing thread.

+1 what drunkskunk recommended. Hookworms and slime baby for the win!

I recently went "ghetto"(slit tube) tubeless for my 24 X 2.4" Holly Rollers/CST Cyclopes tires and have been happy with the results.
I used(in order):
Stans yellow rim tape
Sticky foam tape
20" generic tubes w/ all-threaded Schrader valves.
Stan's sealant.

The sticky foam tape is an extra step that allows the first inflation with a tire pump.
If the rims are wider aftermarket(like my Alex DM 24's), the foam tape closes the space between the tire bead and the rim.
The way to know if it is needed is to install the tire(uninflated)on the bare rim and see if it spins freely.

The thing I found to be most important is, the donor tubes need to have the threaded Schrader valves. This allows the slit donor tube to be locked in place during and after installation.

I bought a used MTB to convert to electric. I wanted to use the nearly new back tire on the new motor-wheel, so I tried to remove it. Normally, I can do it without levers, but this one was a real struggle with levers. When I finally got it off, I found the reason: There was another smaller tire underneath. Apparently, this is a technique that some people use to avoid punctures. Does anybody have any thoughts on it or experience of it?

The 2 tyres trick does seem to stop punctures but the added rolling weight penalty made me go back to just one.
The inner tyre will shift position relative to the outer in high power setups causing lots of tiny balls of rubber to build up between them and exacerbate the problem.

NYC roads are very unforgiving but I survive 1000’s of miles on my 26” or 20” wheels with either Panaracer UfDa! or CST Cyclops using extra thick tubes on rear wheel (2-2.5mm downhill) and a few ounces of Slime.

I only use standard tube up front and no Slime. By virtue of how punctures occur, front tires don’t need nearly as much prevention as rear tires and I like keeping front wheels in normal weight range.

CST Ciudad makes a nice 700c “city” tire. Supposedly kevlar and my coworker reports holding up great on his 45lb eBike.

All this Kevlar business, I dunno? Seems like an awful lot of “sales engineering”. I’ve had dozens of flats on motos & bicycles. Yep, I’ve used Marathons and Big Apples and no measurable improvement.

It seems that given the right angle, a somewhat sharp solid object will always find a way to puncture/damage a tire. Kevlar be damned. When that happens I’d rather it be an under $20 tire rather than an over $40 tire.

Plus, as mentioned, Marathons' ride kinda sucks. CST Cyclops’ is a GREAT 26” bargain tire and I like the ride, grip, longevity and of course price.

Moto rims/tires can help but having suffered around 10 flats at speed over a 40yr street riding career I don’t see ‘em as invincible either. Plus, add considerable weight and expense.

These discussion always seem to go the way of “motor oil” threads or similar. No two persons will agree on much. Nature of the beast but I’m pretty happy how my affordable setups have worked over several years and 1,000’s of harsh miles.