ev_convert
10 µW
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2010
- Messages
- 6
I have been happy ebiking for a couple years now - but unfortunately the hub motor stop working properly on Friday 2rd July 2015.
Briefly, when the hub motor (HS3540) runs it is very noisy and jerky. It cuts out at random under no load - and under load it is very jerky and
cuts out within seconds. I had plastic cable ties holding the motor controller on the frame - unfortunately both cable ties failed allowing the
motor controller to bash against the frame. I concluded the the controller was damaged beyond repair.
Justin at ebike.ca advised to me to replace the controller with:
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/controllers/c3635-nc.html
(as this product replaces my old controller - there is one difference the new controller doesn't have the direction input cable).
Once the new controller was fitted the hub motor ran backwards/ clockwise. Once again Justin advised me to change the order of the phase wire from the controller until it ran forwards. Having got the motor spin in the right direction - i was advised to, plug the hall sensors back in and they will map themselves to the new orientation of the phases/motor direction.
When stationary - and i open the throttle slowly: the wheel rotates backwards about 1cm - then starts spinning in the right direction; Also noticed
on hills or when accelerating at low speed - a lumpiness' during acceleration; Things aren't as smooth as on the old controller when accelerating ...
however, once I've got to say 25-30mph - all is smooth and well. According to Justin this sounds like you are still running sensor-less.
Some-things not right: during this mornings ride into town at start up - when i twist the throttle - sometimes nothing happens - no motion of the
wheel. Sometimes at start-up very jerky for a few seconds and especially on hills one can feel the motor lunging then easing - lunging then
easing. I'm at loss of what is wrong.
I repeated the hall sensor tests:
Red-black=4.6V
Green-black= 0 to 4.6V, as rotate wheel etc;
Yellow-black= 0 to 4.6V
Blue-black=0 to 4.6V
This all looks fine;
Justin also suggested: sometimes these controllers need to be run at faster RPM unloaded to get the hall sensor mapping engaged. It definitely
helps to do this step unloaded with the motor propped up. Have you been able to try the hall mapping steps with the motor spinning unloaded
and at higher RPM? It's definitely odd that the hall sensors haven't mapped yet, usually it just takes a couple tries.
Me: i tried running the motor for some 7 miles unloaded, speeding up to 30mph - slowing down - speeding up; It appeared sorted - but when
riding up a small hill the original problems returned.
One finally thing Justin suggested was: one other quick test is to check the continuity between each of the hall signal wires and each other and
between each of them and the motor casing. If there has been a short of one of the hall leads against the iron motor stator, then that can result
in the signals seeming fine when you measure their voltage while turning the wheel, but can mess up the behaviour with the controller.
Me: made the measurements as requested:
"hall signal wires and each other" = 4.31k ohms
"hall signal wires and motor casing" 1M ohms
Are these reading acceptable?
This is as far as I've got on resolving this issue - obviously i'm getting desperate for a solution. I wonder if anyone on this forum can offer practical
advise on how to get this working properly. Thanks for any help in advance;
Ken
Briefly, when the hub motor (HS3540) runs it is very noisy and jerky. It cuts out at random under no load - and under load it is very jerky and
cuts out within seconds. I had plastic cable ties holding the motor controller on the frame - unfortunately both cable ties failed allowing the
motor controller to bash against the frame. I concluded the the controller was damaged beyond repair.
Justin at ebike.ca advised to me to replace the controller with:
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/controllers/c3635-nc.html
(as this product replaces my old controller - there is one difference the new controller doesn't have the direction input cable).
Once the new controller was fitted the hub motor ran backwards/ clockwise. Once again Justin advised me to change the order of the phase wire from the controller until it ran forwards. Having got the motor spin in the right direction - i was advised to, plug the hall sensors back in and they will map themselves to the new orientation of the phases/motor direction.
When stationary - and i open the throttle slowly: the wheel rotates backwards about 1cm - then starts spinning in the right direction; Also noticed
on hills or when accelerating at low speed - a lumpiness' during acceleration; Things aren't as smooth as on the old controller when accelerating ...
however, once I've got to say 25-30mph - all is smooth and well. According to Justin this sounds like you are still running sensor-less.
Some-things not right: during this mornings ride into town at start up - when i twist the throttle - sometimes nothing happens - no motion of the
wheel. Sometimes at start-up very jerky for a few seconds and especially on hills one can feel the motor lunging then easing - lunging then
easing. I'm at loss of what is wrong.
I repeated the hall sensor tests:
Red-black=4.6V
Green-black= 0 to 4.6V, as rotate wheel etc;
Yellow-black= 0 to 4.6V
Blue-black=0 to 4.6V
This all looks fine;
Justin also suggested: sometimes these controllers need to be run at faster RPM unloaded to get the hall sensor mapping engaged. It definitely
helps to do this step unloaded with the motor propped up. Have you been able to try the hall mapping steps with the motor spinning unloaded
and at higher RPM? It's definitely odd that the hall sensors haven't mapped yet, usually it just takes a couple tries.
Me: i tried running the motor for some 7 miles unloaded, speeding up to 30mph - slowing down - speeding up; It appeared sorted - but when
riding up a small hill the original problems returned.
One finally thing Justin suggested was: one other quick test is to check the continuity between each of the hall signal wires and each other and
between each of them and the motor casing. If there has been a short of one of the hall leads against the iron motor stator, then that can result
in the signals seeming fine when you measure their voltage while turning the wheel, but can mess up the behaviour with the controller.
Me: made the measurements as requested:
"hall signal wires and each other" = 4.31k ohms
"hall signal wires and motor casing" 1M ohms
Are these reading acceptable?
This is as far as I've got on resolving this issue - obviously i'm getting desperate for a solution. I wonder if anyone on this forum can offer practical
advise on how to get this working properly. Thanks for any help in advance;
Ken
