New battery delivers no current (SOLVED)

S

Stochastic_Sam

1 mW
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
15
Location
San Francisco
Hi folks,

I have a brand new 36V 14Ah battery from eZee (Grin) that isn't delivering power. Front eZee motor, twist throttle, older Grin Infineon 20A controller (no rocker switch). An old 48V 15 Ah Ping works fine on this bike, so I'm confident in the wiring setup and controller. The new battery reads 41V at the XLR on a multimeter, but when I plug the battery into the controller I get no red light on the controller. If I swap back to the 48V Ping without touching anything else the controller lights up and the motor works. Any suggestions for a next step troubleshooting?

Thanks.
 
The first thing that pops into my mind is that 41V might be lower than the low voltage cutoff on your 48V controller. You want a 36V controller for a 36V battery.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. My original battery for this bike ran at 36V, so in the past the controller was fine with that level of voltage. I've been pushing 48V into it for two years since then, so I suppose it's possible that the controller now cuts off at a higher voltage; is there a logical mechanical explanation for that kind of failure?
 
The Grin controller has a LVC of 21V, so that is not a factor.
Do you have 41V at the Andersons?
Is the battery a "keyed"type?
The second key position on. Third is locked and on.
 
You have to measure the voltage on the terminals at the bottom of the battery. If no 41v there,check the main fuse. If there is 41v there, you need to check the 41v down the wires to the controller to see if there's a break somewhere.
 
No doubt you are, but I'd do nothing that might be advised here, and talk directly with Grin. Then do what they say you should do.
 
Thanks for the advice. I got current off the charging port but wasn't getting current off of the Anderson leads. I suppose another point of failure could be the key switch; the switch is set to "on", but if there were a failure internally it might not be providing current to the controller. I sent an email to Grin first thing but haven't heard back yet.
 
Charging port reads a steady 41V on a voltmeter; Andersons read 0V. My old battery reads 56V on both ends when fully charged, so I think I know what to look for. I'll call Grin tomorrow and see what they have to say.
 
keep trying the switch in case it just is not extending the bolt and that is causing the switch to not turn on fully. this is a common problem if the bolt doesn't line up with the hole in the rack.
 
After opening the battery case, I found that one internal wire leading from the key switch was loose. Re-connecting this wire to the key switch produced a working battery. I assume it was not soldered correctly at the factory or came loose somewhere on the way to my house.
 
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