Monarch Fork Fail.

Mark42

10 W
Joined
May 9, 2015
Messages
78
You may remember my retro ebike build used a Monarch reproduction fork. Well I have to say it did not hold up too well. One day I was carrying a back pack full of groceries, and one side bag was full too. The fork bent right at the crown. One or two welds broke on each side and the fork was sticking out from the bike at a 45* angle. The spring rods prevented the fork from completely collapsing. I am lucky the fork didn't break right off and send me face first into the pavement. I checked it out and seeing as I was miles from home, decided to ride it at a very slow pace being careful to miss bumps, holes, etc. Made it home ok.
Ended up installing the original rigid mountain bike fork. Miss the spring action, but at least it is much heavier duty than the Monarch and should be able to handle the extra weight this ebike carries between the side bags and a back pack.

BTW, the 1000w CNEBikes kit I bought from Amazon has been working flawlessly. Same with the 12v converters from ebay used to run headlight and tail lights. All in all I am very pleased with this build.
 
These things can happen when parts are used for looks rather than function.

All the retro "springer" forks I have ever seen, cheap or expensive, have been junk from an engineering perspective.
 
Crap, glad thats all that happened,i always wondered about those forks and now i know.
 
I bought a springer from Monarch about 4 years ago and put it on my two wheel woody.. the only problem I have had with it was caused when I ran headfirst into a lamppost... I had to avoid a pedestrian who would not move out of my path. he said he didn't see me.... he was texting... one side of the fork bent slightly and a weld at the crown had to be redone... that happened about two years ago and it is still working quite well :mrgreen:
 
Chalo said:
These things can happen when parts are used for looks rather than function.

All the retro "springer" forks I have ever seen, cheap or expensive, have been junk from an engineering perspective.
as long as you replace the crown, springs, tubes, dropouts and hardware, they aren't too bad... :wink:
 
Can anyone comment on the latest Monark Type II springer forks currently available

https://monarkforks.com/monark/specs

I've got an Electra Cruiser 7d ebike to which I'd like to upgrade with a suspension fork and disc brake and came Across the Monark site. Electra state the frame takes a 1" threaded headset and I've measured the steerer tube to be about 18cm or just over 7" from top to bottom bearing.

IMG_1513.JPG

Below are the specs Monark provide. For the price it seems attractive, but please let me know if this is a recipient for disaster !


Headset: 1 x 32.5 x 26.4
Adapter: Available for 1 1/8 threadless headset
Steering Tube Length: 7 “long overall with threads extending 2” from the top
Wheel Size: For use with wheels up to 26”
Tire Size: Will accept up to 26 x 2.55
Fork Leg Length: 15” long from the bottom bearing race to the drop outs where the front wheel axle is.
Disc Brake: 160mm rotor recommended

My bike and thread is here : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=54149
 
Those things are for pedal cruisers. With the weight and speed of ebikes, components must be selected for functionality and reliability, rather than aesthetics. Even a 40 lbs motorcycle springer fork is absolute sh*t for functionality, but at least it won't break under you.
 
If you want a retro springer that is bomb-proof, consider the girder style from the mental manno. Shipping from Croatia will be rough, but...I feel that these can't be beat.
 
I have had a set of monarch forks on my woody two wheel since I first built about 5 years ago... I ran int a telephone pole;long story] and only slightly bent the forks.. it was straitened out quite easily. been fine ever since.. would recommend chrome springs, black forks.. their chroming is not very heavy :mrgreen:
 
Perth_ebiker said:
Thanks guys. Mainly I just want a pair of bomb proof forks that will fit on my frame.

No commonly available linkage type forks are going to be as strong or reliable as either rigid or telescopic dual crown forks. Most of them are less structurally sound than single crown forks.
 
I got a monarch on a trike. Works fine except I had to put to braces on the axle to keep it in the forks. Now on the other hand ruff cycle sells some pretty wicked springer front ends and so does 3G. Don't kno if you can still get the 3G ones but they're pretty beefy
 
It is a modified Shiver. Easy job shorter travel, but with a custom top crown and a very neat polish that are time consuming.
 
Just received my Sunlite Deluxe Double Springer. Paid about $125 on Amazon. Took about 3 days.

So anyways, its HEAVY. And comes with no crown race. It does have the land for one... Race of
my old Electra fork too hard stuck to get off in usable shape. Hopefully I picked the right size
PVC pipe to slam down the new race, 1.25". Won't know for sure till I get home tonight.

And also threaded slightly too tall for my frame, which is better than too short, but will affect
the final geometry. Making me wish for equally shorter springs to match how much 1" threaded
tube I may need to hacksaw.

My bike is a 26" Electra Ratrod 3i, and will be fitted with a 36V Tongsheng if all goes well.
This fork is mostly because I wanted a front brake, and move the fender away from my
toes, any small extra toe clearance will help.

This fork looks and feels indestructible. There are smooth curves and no welds to fall apart.
At least no welds in the worrisome area where folks complain that Monark clones are weakest.

That bracket at top that guides the front fork (I don't know what to properly call it), is huge
and thick, but has a very small Allen bolt thru sideways to grab around the threaded top of
the back fork. Right out of the box, that bolt was over-tightened to immobilize the fork for
shipping. Stuck hard, and worried that I might snap it before it eventually did work loose.

Stock springs are stiff, even at full extension. There are no countersprings. So its not going
to float. You can relocate one pair or even all the urethane spacers to the top, but they are
not very springy, and better serve below to prevent the main springs from scratching posts.

So I need some short stiff counterspring, and wondering if a stack of Belleville cone spring
washers might do the trick? Compressing the main springs into floating balance should also
make them shorter. Its a theory...

The hole in Sunlite's flat washer that I brought for comparison seems to be either M10 or 3/8".
Darn close to the same. Suspect from fiddling with both at the store that either size washer
could fit over either size bolt. Don't know what purpose the flimsy original flatwashers served?
But serve to demonstrate the right size hole.

Fastenall won't have my size Belleville springs in till next week, but I found some sealing washers
of similar cone shape with EPDM (Neoprene?) on one side. I'll try those and see what happens.

The sealing washers I bought at Fastenall were 18-8 stainless, holes for 3/8", just over 1cm...
Found the same far cheaper at Homely Despot, but only in galvanized. Fastenall Bellevilles I
ordered for next week might be carbon steel, no way to tell till they get here.

Sunlite has a hole above both forks, but only the front fork moves with the wheel, so that
one is where I'll try to mount my fender. The fender or brake hole in the back fork is too
high to be useful for any but a rear facing half-fender. Not more than an inch forward.
Front fork fender hole is low enough to clear a sizable fender both forward and back with
clearance to travel below the rear fork.

The wheel attaches to the front fork, not to the link. This seems important, because
both disk and drum brake hardpoints are welded to the same front fork and will not
wiggle out of alignment as the link moves.

More later, after I actually get it installed. Theoretically I have a Sturmey 90mm Drum
on the way. But that was Outside Outfitters. So 39 days later, there is still no telling
when/if ever it might ship, or maybe just threw my money away.
 
I can say now, Homely Despot galvanized sealing washers are a complete fail for this app.
Under no stress, they may look the Belleville shape. But this cheap metal smashes flat too
easily, leaving only rubber to do any springwork. A few cones even folded through the hole
and popped out the other side. The few from Fastenall that were stainless held up better.

Both brands share the same problem that rubber compresses against the posts. More than
damping, but a tight grab. Definitely not floating, though the main springs are now clearly
pre-loaded by a centimeter or two. It was tighten one side, stack a washer on the other,
then alternate. Else full springstacks would have extended past the threaded end of the
bolts, and impossible to start the first nut. Adding one washer, one side at a time, was
tedious redundant work. But got them all on, right about where I thought I had wanted.
Except way too stiff, grabby, not much travel left.

Still some hope for real spring steel cones when those come next week, but I wouldn't do
the rubber ones again. Half inch might have grabbed less than 3/8, but I still wouldn't...

It might also be possible to install the bracket twisted halfway into the original springs,
like you might see underneath some seats. Not yet saying that idea doesn't create other
problems.

I got the crown race on by turning my 1.25" PVC pipe toward the ground, and using the
weight of my fork as the mallet. That much of my experiment worked...

Sanity Check: Carbon Fiber Bellevilles on a Racecar Suspension.
http://www.brrperformance.com/blog/?p=1941
 

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I just hit a curb at full speed, not intentionally.
Was listening for front fender mounts to rattle,
not paying attention the concrete in front of me.

Oddly enough, I didn't go ass over teakettle???
Didn't break any spokes, checking all over for
damage, just wasn't any. Fork seems to have
saved my bacon, exactly as designed.

Maybe Sunlite springs aren't too stiff after all?
Only two Neoprene washers at top, not as above.
Fastenall still doesn't have my Belleville springs.
 

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The Vintage electric’s use a MRP front shock custom travel. You can buy them from Vintage Electric. They cost $1300...
I bought one from them and added it to my tracker. I made it 10x better to control at higher speeds. No more dizziness from my head shaking. 😂
They also do not use felt frames. The very first prototypes may have been. I own two trackers. Felt frames are not built like this.
 
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