Help please, new to tricycles, considering building e-trike

alpharalpha

100 W
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278
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Florida
Hello, I am considering building an e-trike from either a standard upright tricycle or buying a rear axle conversion and putting a 2 wheel bike together with it. One immediate question is can I put a rear motor on a tricycle since the tires go on differently. I want to get away from the front hub motor, and would prefer my batteries down low in the trike's rear basket. The other immediate question is how the handling is on an electrified trike? I've only ridden the typical senior citizen type common here in FL. I think if there's no problems this setup would be safest. I would appreciate any input. Thanks.
 
Look at my Delta Tripper and SB Cruiser threads for answers to a lot of your questions. ;)


Blueshift also has posts about his, here and there around ES.
 
alpharalpha said:
Hello, I am considering building an e-trike from either a standard upright tricycle or buying a rear axle conversion and putting a 2 wheel bike together with it. One immediate question is can I put a rear motor on a tricycle since the tires go on differently. I want to get away from the front hub motor, and would prefer my batteries down low in the trike's rear basket. The other immediate question is how the handling is on an electrified trike? I've only ridden the typical senior citizen type common here in FL. I think if there's no problems this setup would be safest. I would appreciate any input. Thanks.

1. Mostly No. there are exceptions. There are also alternate motor placement ideas that would work. A rear motor removed from the wheel and placed where many trikes have a multi-speed jackshaft could be used to drive the chain, for example. There are also some trikes that support the rear wheel from both sides of the axle and drive the wheels by individual chains. those could take a rear motor as well. There is no single solution, and no easy solution, and in most cases, a better way to do it, so Mostly No, but maybe yes.


2. Upright trikes handle like.. well, like a trike. Up to 12-15 miles an hour, they're perfectly stable, and far more stable than a 2 wheeled cargo bike. Above that, they should only be rode by the athletic, suicidal, or elderly if you're in their will. The faster you go, the more they become the antithesis of stability and will try their best to spill you onto the road.
But get the weight down lower on a recumbent style trike, delta or tadpole, and the handling improves greatly. They will stay stable at high speeds, and perform well. The right kind of recumbent trike could easily out handle anything on 2 wheels. A leaning recumbent trike is even better.
 
Debateable whether the SB cruiser is an "upright trike" Much lower seat, and honestly, rider skill matters a lot too. You or I can ride that cruiser faster than most, and still be safe. The cruiser is more like the Sun EZ really.

But if you will be using a typical tall delta trike like the schwinns, worksmans, etc, then it really is true that 15 mph is the fastest you can run and have good steering. Sure, you can go faster, but steering will definitely suffer. It will get harder and harder to jink around a broken bottle. Cornering of course, has to go slower, or you have to master the lifted rear wheel turn.

This is why the E bike kit, "trike kit" uses the slow rpm motor. It's not for torque at all, it's mostly to keep the max speed of the thing down to 15 mph or less.

Rear wheel drive for your trike will require one of two things, a mid drive, or a frame like the SB cruiser, which actually has a fork on the rear wheels.

I have thought ever since I saw the bafang BBs02 mid drive, how cool would one of those be, on a three speed trike? But really, for most peoples needs, there is nothing at all wrong with a low speed front hub on trikes. They work fine.

If you want a really hot trike, then you need to go with the recumbent, tadpole type trikes. Those take a rear hub motor easily, and can be built to go seriously fast. Something like a terra trike, or cat trike.
 
If you want speed on a trike and ready made you can get a low tadpole like a Trice or Steintrike or a tilting delta like a Varna. Ready made for a rear or front hub.
otherDoc
 
I've found a rear axle conversion similar to the sb cruiserTricyclekit-26-133315.jpg I love recumbents, but prefer to be upright for visibility, etc. Thinking something kinda like this but with cruiser handlebars and a wider seat. Like being upright, but not forward for long rides.tricycle mtb.jpg
Having the motor in front has been nerve-wracking, so whatever I do a rear motor is going to be part of it :)
 
alpharalpha said:
I've found a rear axle conversion similar to the sb cruiserView attachment 1
That looks like exactly what I started with. It's been modified a fair bit from that, mostly around hte fenders, but also in where the cargo area is, now much lower rigth at the top of the thiner part of the axle, with the "transmission hump" sticking out of the front edge of the bed. THe dropouts on the right side are completely replaced, to hold the X5304, as they are totally insufficient to deal with any hubmotor I have tried (even the "little" geared Fusin "1000w" on Delta Tripper). The leftside dropouts are beefed up, but still need to be replaced with better-designed ones for my purposes.

Thinking something kinda like this but with cruiser handlebars and a wider seat. Like being upright, but not forward for long rides.
With that short a wheelbase, and that high a rear end, you're going to be limited to the slow speeds of <5mph for turns, or you're going to end up on your head. ;)

Delta Tripper was nicknamed Delta Tipper for that reason, among others.

As long as you just want basically slower pedal-speeds without the effort of doing the pedalling, then that configuration will work ok.

If you need better handling at >10MPH or so, ability to jink around stuff on the road without worrying about tipping into traffic and stuff, you might want to look into DDK's trikes thread, or the SB Cruiser thread, among others.

SB Cruiser can take normal traffic intersection turns at >15MPH when it's loaded with stuff in the back with no tipping, and just a little tipping that's easily controllable at abotu 15MPH or just under with no load in back.

Most of that is probably it's length and it's low rear end, and the weight placement of batteries and toolbox to either side of the seat down low in front of the rear tires. It might be even better if I put the battery along the length of the rear axle, just below and in front of it, but I haven't built a battery box that would keep it safe from road debris yet. Some of it may also be the steering / headtube angle / trail, which is probably excessive but it appears to work well enough that I haven't messed with it.

Another part of it's turn-handling is that I can use each rear motor independently, so I can actually steer with the motors, using the left motor in a right turn, and the right motor in a left turn, to help push me thru the turn harder.
 
So, lower and longer seems like the way to go. I suppose I could find a lowrider style bike on CL like this,add the trike attachment, switch out the handlebars (and put a couple schwalbe tires on it.) huffy.jpg kinda like this without all the blinglowrider trike.jpg Another concern is how this will work riding on back roads without any shoulder. In a way I've thought a trike or bike trailer might be advantageous as it would force them to give me a wider berth (unless they didn't and just ended up clipping me) as it is vehicles will get right up behind me and then narrowly pass. What have your experiences been riding in these conditions, pro or con?
 
alpharalpha, you are in over your head. I wasn't convinced of it until I saw the lowrider bikes.

How fast are you talking about? Because speeds and power levels high enough to make a front motor a bad idea are also too high for trikes generally.

At my pedicab outfit, we hang a gearmotor in brackets behind the rear axle, and drive the differential.

Most trikes don't have differentials, so they only drive one rear wheel. How could that possibly be better than a front wheel motor?

My suggestion is to borrow or rent a trike and figure out how fast you're comfortable going on one. Because there's really no point in setting up a motor drive to go faster than that. For the speed you settle on, I'm guessing a front hub motor will be just fine.

My e-pedicabs are set up to go about 18mph-- but keep in mind that these trikes are over 50 inches wide, with seven foot wheelbases.

We once bought in a used cargo pedicab that had an X5304 motor and a 72V/40A controller. It went close to 35mph. At that speed, you couldn't even consider changing direction; it was a complete deathtrap. And that trike was just as wide and even longer than the trikes we make.

If you want to go fast (bicycle speeds and above), use two wheels, or use a tadpole layout recumbent trike like a Catrike or KMX. If you want to use an upright three-wheeler, make it slow.
 
alpharalpha said:
So, lower and longer seems like the way to go. I suppose I could find a lowrider style bike on CL like this,add the trike attachment, switch out the handlebars (and put a couple schwalbe tires on it.)
I don't think you're going to just find a bicycle frame that will do what you want by itself, without modification, just tossing on a trike kit. Look at DDK's trike thread, too (though he doesn't use them very fast).

There are some long wheelbase (LWB) recumbent or semi-recumbent bikes that might work as a basis for the conversion; you'd ahve to compare them to the frames, steering angles, trail, wheelbase, etc., of the trikes that have been ridden successfully at the speeds you are after.

THere are lots of things that affect steering at speed; it's been discussed in many of the trike threads around ES (and elsewhere), so you might want to read thru them all to see what I mean. Weight distribution, COG, trail, steering angles, steering methods, etc., all make a difference.

I got unlucky when I threw together Delta Tripper, and I got lucky when me and Dogman threw together SB Cruiser. I used some of what I learned from DT to make SBC better, but I didn't research anything in any great depth, though I did try to apply what I had already read about to it. Steering/trail I read and asked about, and ended up screwing that up when actually building it, by quite a lot, IIRC, and it somehow managed to end up working anyway because of other factors like weight distribution and that it's a really heavy trike.

It still took some learning to ride, even with that.

Another concern is how this will work riding on back roads without any shoulder. In a way I've thought a trike or bike trailer might be advantageous as it would force them to give me a wider berth (unless they didn't and just ended up clipping me) as it is vehicles will get right up behind me and then narrowly pass. What have your experiences been riding in these conditions, pro or con?
If driver behavior is to get close enough to clip you, it's not going to change unless you are large enough to cause them significant damage if they do, and maybe not even then.

With drivers like that, as far as they are concerned you are in their way, slowing them down, and don't have any right to be there, so whatever happens to you is your own fault, and they dont' have to do anything other than whatever they feel like.

That's assuming they even notice you are there. :/

If they notice you, then some of them might be afraid of hurting their cars (if they're not in SUVs or trucks, in which case they probably won't care), if you look big enough.

You could add MattyCiii's Folding Lefty Lightstick, to force them to pass you wider, perhaps. Downlighting to light up the whole road around you to make you look "bigger" at night.

That's part of the reason I make sure mine is as visible as I can make it from the rear, day or night, with the lights and the reflective diagonal stripe tape, etc.

And why my lights are right up at windsheild/ eye level for cars, and at least at the bottom of the hood level for smaller to medium trucks and SUVs.


It also helps when I have the kennel in the cargo bed, as it is white and makes the trike look even larger and more solid; less like something they could just hit and knock out of their way.

I also make sure I have the power to accelerate quickly, so that I might be able to get out of the way of someone suddenly taking my lane (braking wouldn't fix that most times), or reduce the velocity difference of a rear impact as much as I can (never had to do that yet).

But the only thing that will really keep you from being hit is you--having good rearview mirrors and being practiced enough at getting out of the way (slowing rapidly and pulling offroad if you have to, for instance), for drivers that don't appear to be going around you.

If every driver only goes around you at the last second, then you can't know which will actually hit you, and you'd have to get out of every single one's way, which means either you should find a different route, if one exists, or just accept the probabilities that one of them is not going to go around you at some point, and have good life insurance to help anyone you leave behind. ;)


Alternatively, get a vehicle that's road-legal to go as fast as the rest of traffic, and use that. :/



For myself, I try to stay off roads where drivers are not likely to go around me properly, and when I can't avoid it I just take my chances on those where they are unlikely to "allow" non-car traffic to mix with them.

But even in a car, I'd still have a chance of being hit because many drivers just don't pay attention and don't care; if they are in a hurry (normal state) then they're going to do whatever they want without regard to anyone else around them, even a huge city bus or the light rail train. (just look around for collision news and pics in the valley here, and realize whatever you see is only a small percentage of those that actually happen :roll:)
 
Yes I was over my head with the trike idea. Tipping was my #1 concern. Regarding rear wheel vs front, even with the rear wheel to the side on the trike if it failed somehow it would not have been as hazardous as if with a front wheel (2 wheel or trike) and I thought if a trike would've worked out installing a hub motor to that conversion kit it would've been basically like installing a front one, ease wise. I have 2 torque arms TrqRev2.jpg on a 500w x 27v setup but it still doesn't seem wise to have the motor in the front instead of the rear because if there was failure under power it could be pretty bad where a rear would most likely just stop the bike, and with beefier dropouts in the rear I'd feel more at ease.
 
alpharalpha said:
Tipping was my #1 concern.
Which you can deal with in the design phase as long as you're able to get the COG low enough, and weight distribution in the right spots. :) (and heavy enough in those spots).

Part of why mine is less tippy with the twin rear hubmotors, cuz neither one is light ;) putting the weight at the farthest points of the rear sides.


And also as long as you're willing to accept that sharp turns will probably still require slowing down a lot (though you may not need to for just dodging debris and potholes that don't put you out of line too far; you'll have to test and practice that stuff to find out for sure).


I have 2 torque arms
Those won't fit that conversion kit if it is like mine.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22720


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You'd have to have arms that can clamp to the diagonal frame; I used wrenches on the Fusin kit, hoseclamped to the frame.

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Keep in mind that the way those dropouts work, they are like a T rather than a regular slot, cuz the axle first goes up into the vertical of the T, and is then adjusted along the length of the top bar. First you install the left wheel and fit the chain, then slide that left wheel back until the chain is tensioned, and tighten the axle nuts.
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Then you match the rigth wheel's position with the left.

Since those slots are made for 10mm round axles, it's kind of a challenge getting a 12mm or bigger hubmotor axle in there, cuz even though it has 10mm flats, it doesn't turn very easily in that intersection between the T's vertical and it's top bar...IIRC I had to file or grind a bit on the "corners" to allow it to be turned. There is probably some detail about that and my "torque arms" :) in the Delta Tripper thread as I figured out how to build it and fix the things I didn't do right. :oops:


with beefier dropouts in the rear I'd feel more at ease.
The dropouts are not beefy on that kit, if it is like mine, it is pretty thin metal actually, and though it was not solely because of that, I actually had the right wheel come off as I turned a corner once on Delta Tripper, as IIRC the dropouts bent/spread out enough to let the axle spin which then pushed the dropouts away on the "inside" (left side of that wheel), which let teh frame bend away and push against my splicing of frames, a weakspot in that particular failure mode... :oops:

edit; here's the psot about that
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22720&start=75#p723738
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and the added thickness of metal i welded onto it to help stop that from happening again
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This was teh beginning of that failure, before it got that bad:
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Also keep in mind you would need to use a *front* hubmotor to fit the width of the dropouts, for a kit like mine--it's actually made to go on single-speed (or rather, IGH-type-wheel) bikes, so you'd use the original rear wheel off such a bike on it's left side, and another front wheel on it's right side. (at least, it would've worked that way on mine).

To use a rear hubmotor, you'd have to do what I did and widen the frame by adding tubing between the two halves of the top curve on the diagonals.
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Just bending them out to spread them won't work unless you want cambered rear wheels (and even then I think you'd have to alter the frame supports between the left and right wheel frames, to shorten the ones on top front/rear, to let the tops of those lean inward, or lengthen those supports to bend the tops of those be farther apart, and not have to have cambered wheels).

The way I am using the kit on SB Cruiser it works with it's original width dropouts, as I'm using two front wheels on it, but the droputs themselves aren't sufficient to handle the torque






Oh, and here
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22720#p336931
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=336930#p336930
is the post I was thinking of when I replied before, about just having a long wheelbase doesn't make a non-tippy trike
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OP I think you got two options if you would like to fast riding a trike. You could as others already told you do a recumbent trike. Place the batteries below you like this and if you really would like to go fast also in corners make sure you do a full suspension build. Or design or make a true leaning trike, that way you could have an upright position as well. TO make a leaning trike will take time, be much more costly and depending on your final design might work, or might just barely work. I'd say the choice is easy and obvious. Recumbent trike for the win, with the weight down low and full suspension.

Alpha_street.jpg


horizon-all-electric-all-terrain-tadpole-trike-4.jpg


post-1-0-64458700-1394705552.jpg


horizon-electric-trike-outrider-usa-4.jpeg.650x0_q70_crop-smart.jpg
 
Upright eTrike w\rear motor "Kit" < $100 - Batteries not included!

Simple and cheap!
Schwinn and others have 1 powered and braked rear wheel, the other just freewheels.
Add to useless wheel:
24-36V controller ($12), Spoke mount 32T ($18) sprocket and 24V 350w gear reduction motor 9T sprocket ($52) = 10mph+

Push to 525w ~15mph with 36V.

See - eTrike as Mobility Device
 
I love the recumbent but not practical around here. Most of my riding is pretty much straightaways, if turning I usually slow down or stop so a low long e-trike seems the way to go at least, and then maybe one of the stronger clamp style torque arms for the rear? I see some different options off CL like a trike already with the conversion kit--or maybe it was built this waySchwinn Trike.jpg
Kinda wish I could rear motor this
Beach Cruiser Trike.jpg
And these semi-recumbents pop up pretty oftenSemi Recumbent.jpg
 
gotta ask what you intend to use the trike for, before I inject my opinions.
 
Mainly to do a 15 mile ea way ride that's pretty straight, though narrow shoulders and curvy in places, and fairly flat; ideally where I could get off the road when I'm backing up traffic in those narrow curvy backroad places. I was doing this ride with my first e-bike: a converted Trek Hybrid with a front hub motor which works fine but I'm uncomfortable with having the motor in the front due to the accident possibilities, so figured if I'm going to build another one I like the idea of a trike. Now I've ridden a 2 wheel bike pretty regularly for the past 30 years so balance etc is not an issue, just seeing if this idea is feasible. I really don't mind going 10-15 mph but for traffic's sake and getting to my destination 20-25 mph is more realistic. I'm slowly starting to think of the similarities between an upright trike and the old style 3 wheels ATV's that were notorious for tipping so can see how it could be a big problem, I'd like it to work but am realizing more and more problems like storage, if it broke down it'd be hard to put in a trunk, etc etc.
 
10-15mph is very reasonable.
A full upright trike at 25mph is verging on ... suicidal?

Recommend a cargo 2 wheeler or 2 wheeler w/trailer? (for 20-25mph speeds)
 
DrkAngel said:
10-15mph is very reasonable.
A full upright trike at 25mph is verging on ... suicidal?

Agreed. But 25mph seems plausible for even a non-sporting recumbent trike, for instance one of the Sun 'bent trikes from J&B Importers.

69322-Padding.jpg
 
Sun EZ delta recumbent trike is very popular. It can go faster safely than a full upright for sure, much like the recumbent trike AW built. Sun Recumbent trike..jpg



I talk to owners of them all the time at work, But the thing is, the only simple way to convert one is the front wheel drive. But only slightly more complicated, is a Sun EZ with a bafang mid drive.
 
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