Fat Bike BBSHD Build for Epic Offroad Adventures

Hi,
I wanted to share my first electric bike build and my second post on this forum. I appreciate all the information on the ES. I have learned a lot, and wouldn't even think of dabbling in this without the great information. I am an avid endurance mountain biker. I am building up a fat bike for almost exclusive offroad, mountain use. The bike will also be used on snowy off road trails through the winter. This terrain is singletrack, steep, and rocky. We are hoping to have a bike that can make 30 to 40 mile trips into the back country. I am actually building this for a good friend. He loves the epic mountain adventures but doesn't like to pedal quite as much as I do. He also doesn't care for the technical part of building up bikes and things. I get the fun of building the bike and borrowing it sometimes and he funds the project. Win, win.

Here is the build I am attempting:

The Bike: 2015 Motobecane Sturgis Bullet with Rockshox Bluto fork, Tubeless 4" wide tires, and a 10 speed rear cassette. 11t to 36t. The bike was purchased specifically for this electric build.

The Electric Bits: Bafang BBSHD, 100mm bottom bracket. Triangular 52V 20mah pack with Samsung Cells. The plan is to use a triangle frame bag for now in a manner that is very secure and protective. I am planning on using a left hand thumb throttle and a hydraulic brake sensor with the controls. The kit came with a 961. Is that display sufficient?

I have started the build and have the mid drive mounted on the frame. If I could do it over, I would order a 110 mm or even a 120 mm BBSHD for the 100mm frame. I think this will almost universally be the case on fat bikes for anyone thinking of building one. The drive on the BBSHD is big and I just can't see it clearing the chainstays on most fat bike frames. It is very close to clearing on this bike. I would say maybe 5mm more would clear. I have a few photos that kind of show the clearance issue.
I used one of the delrin bottom bracket spacers and I also had to cut back the direct mount derailleur on the bike to clear the drive. I did this with a dremel.

The left hand crank arm doesn't even come close to clearing the chainstay so I have an offset crank arm coming soon.

Feedback and comments welcome! Photos to follow below:

Overview of the Bike: Check out that Luna 30T chainring.....sweet looking.

Derailleur direct mount causing clearance problems.


Drive unit with the direct mount trimmed back. Notice the drive unit rides right up against the chainstay. I hope this is okay as I have no more threads to sacrifice on the non-drive side of the bottom bracket.

looks sweet, keep us updated on that mid drive fatbike

i would drop the hydraulic brake sensor, you want it as simple as you can get when you are going 30 to 40 mile trips into the back country and get electical issues after a crash etc. ( it will happen and its a loooong way home if you cant repair it on the spot)

after a few years with fail and error i ended up with only a tumb throttle, speed switch (1-2-3), voltmeter and thats it.

i dont have an on/off switch, i just twin the power cables together.. that might be a little extreme but i got used to it after i broke my last switch!

i know ppl are thinking a little powerswitch is easy to repair on the spot, but 15 min with no glowes in -20 celsius and wind is not fun

i also keep a homemade on/off throttle with me at all times, i think my tumb throttle have broken 2-3 times when its very cold

you are gonna have an insane amount of fun with that bike

I tend to agree with that, throttle only. Without PAS, you need no brake cutoff switches. I'd put the shifter on the left, if that's why you said left throttle.

The clearance thing, too bad the bike is not steel. I'd look at possibly shaving notch in the drive housing, if it looked like it could work. Not all the way through, I was thinking maybe just round that corner and get one more thread. Similarly, you might be able to gently dent that stay without ruining the frame. Not a lot, but just a half mm more space? Steel of course, you could bend it a lot.

Sounds like some fun adventures. Once way in there, build a snow hole or igloo. Much easier to use a lighter inside, for your dessert after lunch.

Joppo said:

looks sweet, keep us updated on that mid drive fatbike

i would drop the hydraulic brake sensor, you want it as simple as you can get when you are going 30 to 40 mile trips into the back country and get electical issues after a crash etc. ( it will happen and its a loooong way home if you cant repair it on the spot)

after a few years with fail and error i ended up with only a tumb throttle, speed switch (1-2-3), voltmeter and thats it.

i dont have an on/off switch, i just twin the power cables together.. that might be a little extreme but i got used to it after i broke my last switch!

i know ppl are thinking a little powerswitch is easy to repair on the spot, but 15 min with no glowes in -20 celsius and wind is not fun

i also keep a homemade on/off throttle with me at all times, i think my tumb throttle have broken 2-3 times when its very cold

you are gonna have an insane amount of fun with that bike

Click to expand...

I have broken two twist throttles in cold weather riding. I think part of it is due to the plastic getting brittle and the other because I can't feel how tightly I am twisting it with cold fingers in large snowmobiling mittens, haha.

I have essentially the same build. I have the same bike but went with titanium frame instead. Also I went with the 120mm BBSHD. I think it was the right choice for the frame. I had to make 2 spacers from steel pipe to go on either side of the bottom bracket. In the end there was ample chain stay clearance. I've used the 46 42 and 30 tooth rings. I think the 30 works best with this application. It also let's you get the drive side in real tight because the wrap around rings have to clear the chain stays. I also have 52/20 triangle pack and it will go ALL day on snowy single track. I'll try and post a pic later. Enjoy!

Also I meant to add I only have PAS no throttle. Personal choices. I think its whatever you get used to. It rides just like a non ebike with the PAS and 30 tooth combo. Just my 2 cents.

I like the PAS too. It certainly contributes to longer range. I did back to back identical 2.5 hour rides in the mountains on Sunday and Monday on 840wh and 785wh respectively. GPS says it was a 27.29mi trip on each day. I have a 20ah 52v triangle battery pack and I just keep the bike in PAS1 all of the time.

Yesterday, I did 2 miles of pavement to get to 4miles of singletrack and then 2 miles home and used the throttle like an electric motorcycle the whole time and I used 319wh. Apparently helping out with the pedals once in a while makes a big difference. BTW, I saw a young lynx cross the trail just in front of me on that ride!

Good PAS, yes please. But many is not good. Re the range, you can use a throttle stupidly, but if you use a low power setting, easy to make the same range as pas. It's just a matter of not over throttling, back off till you feel pressure on the pedals again.

A lot depends on the power level, if you are riding in the lower power setting, then sucky jerky pas is tolerable. Once you pass 1000w, then throttle for sure. In any case, after a lifetime on motorcycles, I greatly prefer the more instant control of a throttle. And, I ride without churning the cranks every inch anyway, sooo.. An illness means for me, I always at least need an optional throttle.

I hadn't thought about cold weather breakage on the throttle, that could be a big problem on a real snow bike, and tip it to pas. The throttle could be a more durable cable one, a part from a snowmobile or motorcycle. Then the cable goes to a regular throttle stashed in a warmer place than the bars. set the cable so it's throttle stops just before the e throttle hits its stop.

Back to optional throttle, decent pas, plus a WOT pushbutton throttle would work well. The big fat horn button easy to jab with a thumb, with mittens on. Use the pushbutton to get instant full power on those steep uphill starts, then let go and go PAS once rolling again. SWEET.

i did ride with a push button for maybe 1 year, but after i started riding with the kid i couldn't use it any more but that was the my nr.1 choise of throttle in the winter, now it is my backup

the tumb throttle/push is a MUST have in the snow in my opinion. when you get stuck it's hard to get going again with PAS. (you need to kick with your foot a little to get going and that is hard when you need to peddal at the same time)

ps: if you are good with the throttle i think you use less power

Agreed. PAS does not cut it at all when you need to spin your tire to clear the tread in deep snow and mud... you need something to trigger throttle even if it is a button setup for half throttle.

...and the title of that picture should be 'look ma' no kickstand!' hahaha

We actually got deep snow here this year, but didn't get the picture. It was funny, riding a bike with two wheels that were solid packed discs of snow.

Cool bike! Thanks a lot for sharing the pics and build comments. I really appreciated finding specific info about the Sturgis Bullett and BBSHD fit issues and suggestion to order a 120mm kit.

I'm planning a similar build, and was pleased to hear you can fit the 52V 20AH triangle packs in these frames. What size frames did you guys use with that, and how's the fit? I'm hoping it will fit OK in a 19" frame, or even 17.5" so I can let my wife ride it more easily. I'm 6'1" and I think I could ride either size fairly comfortably.

JPLabs said:

Cool bike! Thanks a lot for sharing the pics and build comments. I really appreciated finding specific info about the Sturgis Bullett and BBSHD fit issues and suggestion to order a 120mm kit.

I'm planning a similar build, and was pleased to hear you can fit the 52V 20AH triangle packs in these frames. What size frames did you guys use with that, and how's the fit? I'm hoping it will fit OK in a 19" frame, or even 17.5" so I can let my wife ride it more easily. I'm 6'1" and I think I could ride either size fairly comfortably.

Click to expand...

Hi,
Thanks for the coments. I will post some pics of the built bike in a few minutes. Its performance is awesome! The frame is a 19" and you will be able to see there is room to spare so my guess is that the battery would fit the 17.5" triangle as well. The Bullet seems to have kind of a high top tube so a 17.5" could be a good idea. I am 5'11" and the 19" is still the bike I would personally prefer. I would get a shorter stem.

I did get the 100mm drive to fit, but it is definitely touching the chain stay. I would order the 110mm kit if available. I used a standard bottom bracket spacer that came off the Race Face bottom bracket. I would think you could get several of these and not have to fabricate spacers as some have.

Well, I finished up the bike. I need to clean up and protect the wiring but other than that it is done. I am so impressed! I have literally never ridden an electric bike so I did not know what to expect. This thing is awesome. It has way more power than I expected. I have the thumb throttle as well as PAS with 3 settings. I can see times that I would use the PAS, but I am also very glad for the thumb throttle. I have not installed the brake sensor and I may not. I would like something to pause the PAS, but maybe some sort of button would be better? I would like to be able to use the front brake almost simultaneously to applying power in certain technical situations.

I can't believe how well this will go in the snow. If you keep your weight way back and rely on the motor, you can can float through 12" deep snow. I have been busting drifts and all kinds of things. It also climbs like crazy. Right before our fresh snow I was climbing a 25% grade with a couple of inches of snow and I could go right up with a little assist.

Here are a couple of photos:

Mountaintime,

Great, thanks for the additional feedback. That's a clean looking build. Your enthusiasm is contagious.

I was worried about unexpected frame fit issues. Seeing your creation and hearing how happy you are with it has helped me decide to go ahead, and guided me towards a known workable frame combination that fits my budget. (I've been an intensive reader of this forum, but your build hit with the right timing and content to earn my first ever reply post!)

Is there any room left for foam padding and rigid panels in your battery bag, especially around the perimeter where it can vibrate against the frame? Bag fit to frame looks nearly perfect on that 19" frame.

110 mm kit will be better, yes, if pedals clear both sides and can be centered. I can machine the bottom bracket and/or fab spacers if needed, so low risk I guess. OK, good, I'll reconsider using 120mm.

Ability to apply front brake and throttle simultaneously would be nice, as you noted. As for button or brake switch, I have had throttles stick WOT a few times on motorcycles. Instinct causes brake grab, first. There is an easy to reach thumb kill switch on my motorcycles, but it always takes a second to realize what is going on, when my concentration is focused on not hitting trees. With a gas engine that builds torque more slowly, it usually isn't a big deal. In case of a throttle malfunction on an ebike with instant response, I think having to hit a separate button could take too long, so I plan to use a brake switch, on the rear only. For best of both, maybe rear brake switch + button to disable PAS (hooked up to the front brake input) would be a good combination?

I haven't ridden an ebike more powerful than my old (now sold) 12V Zap, so I don't have a good understanding of what one needs to deal with if a BBSHD motor goes runaway on you in a low gear, though. Think the rear brake could stop it quickly with full power applied, if there were no brake switch? If so, maybe it is not worth having the extra complexity of a brake override, for a bike intended to do backcountry trips. But if the brake switch fails, can't it simply be unplugged to restore function of the bike?

I am glad my newbie build inspired you. I will try to answer your questions:

I think the 110mm will fit with minimal hassle, but you may still need the offset left crank arm which is available from Cali E Bike for $15.00. If you use the 120mm you may not need the offset crank, as you will need to shift the majority of the 20mm to the left. You need the drive as close to the chainstay as possible or you will mess up your chainline. Right now I am able to shift to the lowest gears without a problem. I didn't even have to adjust the rear derailleur!

The 30T chainring from Luna is absolutely the way to go unless you are building an on road machine. ( And Luna says the top speed of the stock chainring vs the 30t is almost non existent.

The battery and bag: When I push the battery bag as far forward as I can into the triangle there is about 1 1/2" clearance between the bag and the seat post. The battery has another 1 1/2" clearance in the bag on the seat post side. So basically the battery is 3" shorter than inside top of the triangle. The battery is only 8" high so tons of clearance that way. I wish the bag had grommets on the seat tube side. I would like to bring the bag as far down as possible to help with center of gravity. This would put the gap between the top tube and the bag. I am no expert but if I was going to pad the bag, I would do it inside the bag around the battery. My plan is to use closed cell foam around the perimeter of the battery and then a harder material to protect the sides. I was thinking of using a flexible plastic cutting board cut to the shape of the battery.

If you don't need the range of the triangle battery I would consider using a dophin pack or something that mounts to the downtube. The battery weighs 13lbs and its weight sits pretty high. If I was building the bike for me ( I like to pedal) , I would use the smallest, lightest battery mounted low.

The throttle and kill switch: After reading I think I am going to use a right hand thumb kill switch. It is low profile so I think on technical climbing sections I can kill the motor at the same time I pedal. The BBSHD comes programmed with 3 PAS settings and it also comes with PAS zero and full throttle so it is easy to switch between modes as needed. In a very low gear you need a higher PAS in order for it to kick in, in high gears the PAS kicks in very early and strong so you have to turn it down. Interesting how it works. The PAS programming settings someone mentioned in this thread or another seem really interesting. If you can make the motor shut off instantly when you stop pedaling, and set it to come on again after 2 or 3 pedal rotations, then PAS might even work on the kind of technical singletrack I like to ride.

Look forward to seeing your build. Do you know which bike you are going to build up yet? I have seen a few Bikes D. bikes on here and some seem like they were easy installs.

JPLabs said:

Mountaintime,

Great, thanks for the additional feedback. That's a clean looking build. Your enthusiasm is contagious.

I was worried about unexpected frame fit issues. Seeing your creation and hearing how happy you are with it has helped me decide to go ahead, and guided me towards a known workable frame combination that fits my budget. (I've been an intensive reader of this forum, but your build hit with the right timing and content to earn my first ever reply post!)

Is there any room left for foam padding and rigid panels in your battery bag, especially around the perimeter where it can vibrate against the frame? Bag fit to frame looks nearly perfect on that 19" frame.

110 mm kit will be better, yes, if pedals clear both sides and can be centered. I can machine the bottom bracket and/or fab spacers if needed, so low risk I guess. OK, good, I'll reconsider using 120mm.

Ability to apply front brake and throttle simultaneously would be nice, as you noted. As for button or brake switch, I have had throttles stick WOT a few times on motorcycles. Instinct causes brake grab, first. There is an easy to reach thumb kill switch on my motorcycles, but it always takes a second to realize what is going on, when my concentration is focused on not hitting trees. With a gas engine that builds torque more slowly, it usually isn't a big deal. In case of a throttle malfunction on an ebike with instant response, I think having to hit a separate button could take too long, so I plan to use a brake switch, on the rear only. For best of both, maybe rear brake switch + button to disable PAS (hooked up to the front brake input) would be a good combination?

I haven't ridden an ebike more powerful than my old (now sold) 12V Zap, so I don't have a good understanding of what one needs to deal with if a BBSHD motor goes runaway on you in a low gear, though. Think the rear brake could stop it quickly with full power applied, if there were no brake switch? If so, maybe it is not worth having the extra complexity of a brake override, for a bike intended to do backcountry trips. But if the brake switch fails, can't it simply be unplugged to restore function of the bike?

Click to expand...

Thanks for being so generous with your time answering my questions.

You can easily add more grommets to your bag if you want to. There are simple kits, I will link one below to show you. For best strength in nylon, don't punch the holes, but melt them with something hot and sharp, that gives you a reinforced hole that is far less likely to tear out. Soldering iron will work for this, but will polute it with burned plastic; I use an old center punch and a torch. Grommet kit: http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-1-2-in-Solid-Brass-Grommet-Kit-71264/100200416

I haven't commented too much about my own intent, as I didn't want to clutter your thread with unrelated info. But since you asked: I had also picked the Sturgis Bullet w/ Bluto myself - that's how I found your thread, searching Bullet + triangle pack to see if anybody else had done it yet. So it may practically be a clone of yours. My usage will be quite varied. My work commute is about 15 miles each way, often taking 45 min by car, or 2 hours on a snow day. I'd like to bike it sometimes. My knees are pretty shot, I cant make that kind of ride unassisted any more, so I think a 20AH pack will be required for me. I'll do plenty of off-road. I'd like to ride the bike paths with my kids, too, but I'm not sure if I will be scorned too much by other riders to do that. My area has quite a few hardcore dedicated peddlers, so I will need to be extra careful and courteous about where I ride it. I may try both 30T and 42T rings, swapping based on what I'm riding. I think 30 will be most ideal for the motor, but too low for peddling along effectively. But with 42 I could keep the cadence low enough to pedal along better on flats, or so I think from my reading here. I do want to get some exercise, too!

For pack protection, I plan a hard shell for impact protection from the frame on hard hits, and on the sides to also help mitigate effects from a potential venting cell. Rather dense foam inside that, but not completely surrounding the pack. I'll leave channels for air circulation or venting in case of failure. For the rigid plates, I think aluminum, not plastic, then rely on the foam for spacing to prevent abrasion and shorting. It sounds like there might be room for that, but until I have the parts, I won't know for sure. I'd still like to be able to remove the pack from the bag easily for charging in a safe pace and theft protection, but I doubt if I will be able to achieve that. I may go with the Velcro bag option, but then pack theft is just soooo easy.

I just realized this rectangular 52V 20AH pack should also fit, and is smaller and lighter. Not sure if there is a disadvantage, except for being 1/2" wider: http://lunacycle.com/batteries/packs/52v/52-panasonic-ncr18650b-20ah-power-density-and-performance/

I won't be sure about my plan until I place orders, but it's what I'm honing in on now. 80% sure. Whatever I do, I will post the build to share it.

I am glad my newbie build inspired you. I will try to answer your questions:

I think the 110mm will fit with minimal hassle, but you may still need the offset left crank arm which is available from Cali E Bike for $15.00. If you use the 120mm you may not need the offset crank, as you will need to shift the majority of the 20mm to the left. You need the drive as close to the chainstay as possible or you will mess up your chainline. Right now I am able to shift to the lowest gears without a problem. I didn't even have to adjust the rear derailleur!

The 30T chainring from Luna is absolutely the way to go unless you are building an on road machine. ( And Luna says the top speed of the stock chainring vs the 30t is almost non existent.

The battery and bag: When I push the battery bag as far forward as I can into the triangle there is about 1 1/2" clearance between the bag and the seat post. The battery has another 1 1/2" clearance in the bag on the seat post side. So basically the battery is 3" shorter than inside top of the triangle. The battery is only 8" high so tons of clearance that way. I wish the bag had grommets on the seat tube side. I would like to bring the bag as far down as possible to help with center of gravity. This would put the gap between the top tube and the bag. I am no expert but if I was going to pad the bag, I would do it inside the bag around the battery. My plan is to use closed cell foam around the perimeter of the battery and then a harder material to protect the sides. I was thinking of using a flexible plastic cutting board cut to the shape of the battery.

If you don't need the range of the triangle battery I would consider using a dophin pack or something that mounts to the downtube. The battery weighs 13lbs and its weight sits pretty high. If I was building the bike for me ( I like to pedal) , I would use the smallest, lightest battery mounted low.

The throttle and kill switch: After reading I think I am going to use a right hand thumb kill switch. It is low profile so I think on technical climbing sections I can kill the motor at the same time I pedal. The BBSHD comes programmed with 3 PAS settings and it also comes with PAS zero and full throttle so it is easy to switch between modes as needed. In a very low gear you need a higher PAS in order for it to kick in, in high gears the PAS kicks in very early and strong so you have to turn it down. Interesting how it works. The PAS programming settings someone mentioned in this thread or another seem really interesting. If you can make the motor shut off instantly when you stop pedaling, and set it to come on again after 2 or 3 pedal rotations, then PAS might even work on the kind of technical singletrack I like to ride.

Look forward to seeing your build. Do you know which bike you are going to build up yet? I have seen a few Bikes D. bikes on here and some seem like they were easy installs.

Click to expand...

Mountaintime,

About the battery - you used the 52V 20AH Samsung 26f pack, which is 14S8P, in your large frame. They also have a new 20AH Panasonic PF triangle pack that is 14S7P.

Did you consider both of these, and if so, what are your thoughts about the choice?

Posted dimensions on the site are about the same, but not fully detailed for the 26F pack so I can't say for sure. I think the Panasonic pack should be smaller, because it has 14 fewer cells. For anybody who wants to use a smaller 'medium' 17.5" frame, I think the Panasonic pack might be worth the extra $110 to keep fit generous. Not really sure, but I think I'll try that one and report back once I know better. Luna says these are the Tesla cells, so intended for vehicle use. And it sounds like they run cooler than the Samsungs 26f, but that may not matter much with only 30A controller. (Luna site mentions that the 26f tend to run hot.) I want the lowest internal resistance I can get, for less heat generation in an insulated bag, until I know it's not going to be an issue. Better for life, if nothing else.

Here is the Panasonic PF pack info: http://lunacycle.com/blog/panasonic-pf-based-ebike-battery-packs-added-to-our-line-up/

Nice going Mountaintime! Your bike looks awesome. You have gotten into the ebike world just when there are some awesome choices for great kits. I think you have a winning combination there. I have a similar set up to yours and its a ton of fun for sure.

That small rectangle battery looks amazing. Seems like the extra money would be well spent to save all the weight. I think the pack I chose will be fine with the low amps that the BBSHD draws. The large and heavy triangle pack definitely affects the handling of the bike. I am used to being able to easily pop the front wheel up over obstacles and kind of manual through areas, but there is way too much weight forward now. I don't think I could ride a wheelie now by my pedal power alone.



I pushed the bike hard yesterday in snow and hills and the pack barely got warm.

JPLabs said:

Mountaintime,

About the battery - you used the 52V 20AH Samsung 26f pack, which is 14S8P, in your large frame. They also have a new 20AH Panasonic PF triangle pack that is 14S7P.

Did you consider both of these, and if so, what are your thoughts about the choice?

Posted dimensions on the site are about the same, but not fully detailed for the 26F pack so I can't say for sure. I think the Panasonic pack should be smaller, because it has 14 fewer cells. For anybody who wants to use a smaller 'medium' 17.5" frame, I think the Panasonic pack might be worth the extra $110 to keep fit generous. Not really sure, but I think I'll try that one and report back once I know better. Luna says these are the Tesla cells, so intended for vehicle use. And it sounds like they run cooler than the Samsungs 26f, but that may not matter much with only 30A controller. (Luna site mentions that the 26f tend to run hot.) I want the lowest internal resistance I can get, for less heat generation in an insulated bag, until I know it's not going to be an issue. Better for life, if nothing else.

Here is the Panasonic PF pack info: http://lunacycle.com/blog/panasonic-pf-based-ebike-battery-packs-added-to-our-line-up/

Click to expand...

Glad you had a good ride! That' helpful feedback about the weight and handling, thanks. Fork tuning may help you be able to lift the front better.

The Panasonic PF triangle pack saves about 2 lbs over the Samsung 26f triangle pack, per Luna Cycles published weights. If you go tubeless you can shave more front end weight on your bike, depending on how you do it. The Mulfut wheels that come with this bike only require a thin fabric rim strip and full width rim tape + latex (Stan's etc) sealant, for a lightweight tubeless setup option. But there are lots of ways to do it.

For wheelies over obstacles with your setup, can you blip the throttle to lift the front in a controlled way while peddling? Can you wheelie with throttle only? Are you using stock programming?

I have ordered my Sturgis Bullet in 17.5" size, a BBSHD motor kit, and the PF pack. Also the 30T chainring, as you recommended. I won't talk about my build here any more unless you have questions, it's your thread.

MoutainTime said:

That small rectangle battery looks amazing. Seems like the extra money would be well spent to save all the weight. I think the pack I chose will be fine with the low amps that the BBSHD draws. The large and heavy triangle pack definitely affects the handling of the bike. I am used to being able to easily pop the front wheel up over obstacles and kind of manual through areas, but there is way too much weight forward now. I don't think I could ride a wheelie now by my pedal power alone.

I pushed the bike hard yesterday in snow and hills and the pack barely got warm.

Click to expand...

Wow, that was fast! About this time last night I (partially because of this thread) ordered my own Bullet through BikesDirect, and it's going to be here in Idaho this Friday, excellent. I will also be using a BBSHD, and this will be my second build, the first used the 02. Thanks for making my selection easier!

Great! It will be nice to have a few of us in the same boat, sharing what we learn and modification ideas. My bike just showed up today; I am still waiting on the propulsion system parts.

craneplaneguy said:

Wow, that was fast! About this time last night I (partially because of this thread) ordered my own Bullet through BikesDirect, and it's going to be here in Idaho this Friday, excellent. I will also be using a BBSHD, and this will be my second build, the first used the 02. Thanks for making my selection easier!

Click to expand...