I've never been a fan of extreme torque, particularly not when the threads are -cut thread- v. rolled threads. I don't like torque wrenching. Hand wrenchs are made to standard lengths for the very reason to prevent stripping, except by gorilla mechanics.
Torque wrench specs standarize and work ONLY for dry, clean threads.
Dry, no oil, no dirt on the threads, or the results skew drastically.
Torque wrenching dirty, used nuts on bolts of unknown composition quality is a blind endeavor, imo.
I say, employ a hand wrench of standard length and -feel- the nut tight.
If you have a torque arm like 29A has so well-made, then the thing to do in general practice is keep the nut tight.
No need to brutalize threads;
the torque arm is what's keeping the stator from spinning.
I like to retighten things by feel, to moderately hard tightness, several times over a period of service. Eventually the clamped joint beds down and holds torque.
That is to say: a little and often is kinder to threads than one massive torquing.
The longer the torque arm, I suppose the more graceful-looking it may be made to look; I like the notion of exploiting leverage.
Loctite, blue, is good for axle nuts.
Always use a new nut if the old nut has been abused.
: tap or die cut threads are inherently weaker than rolled threads.
Most all bolts and screws today have, in effect, forged threads which preserve the grain-strength of the steel.
However, a hub motor axle is a machined affair,
and so, it probably offers die-cut or lathe-cut threads, which all engineers know are weaker by nature. Corn shucks.
So do machine cut threads if overstressed.