help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

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help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 03 2016 8:44pm

this is kind of a long story

the cemoto full suspension mtn bike from electrobikeworld was the first bike i bought about a year ago

i had not been on a bike in 30 years and it seemed way too fast for me , and the pas seemed way too powerful

think this is a cadence sensor pas, it has a 5 magnet disc
it is a 36volt 8.8? battery with 350 watt motor i think
has one speed pas with a 5 magnet disc and throttle with override

anyway right after i got it took it to a guy that does some ebike work in tucson and he took 2 magnets out of the disc trying to slow the motor down for me

with these 2 magnets out is pretty much the only way i have ridden it since getting it

at first i wasnt sure how much it changed but as i rode more it seemed ok, but it was surgy
looking back would guess i had 30-50% pas this way and a good jump forward using the throttle override when i wanted to
would easily get 30-35 even 40 miles out of a battery

rode it some but not a lot, but i did get more comfortable with the bike, higher speeds etc

in the meantime have learned more and wondered if my inconsistent cadence was causing that surging? now my cadence is much better....

anyway decided i should fix the magnet disc hoping the surge would go away and thinking i am fine now with a faster bike etc, should be better right....

got a couple of similar size ones with 5 magnets off ebay, seems like they were 2.55 and 2.65 sizes
we matched the disc that was in it and the LBS put the new 5 magnet in a week ago

rode the bike once and thought it was way faster, a little too much pas but still pedalling in 5-6 i had good resistance and the bike was doing 15mph easily, it was ok
just thought it was a little faster and i was ok with that , was still pedalling hard and getting a good workout, just kind of fast
but i burned up way more of the battery than usual, like double

tonite tried to ride it and the pas is 100% on, in the flats could not keep any resistance on the pedals at all in any gear and the throttle overrride had nothing, the motor was wide open as soon as i barely pushed the pedals

rode with no electric for a while, then stopped to see if i could adjust the sensor
found that the disc is just riding on that spindle and i could move it in/out and this would affect the pas

stopped several times and adjusted it, moving it slightly away from the sensor slowed down the pas some
but it was up and down, 3 minutes with some assist but then it would cut out for a minute or 2 completely and then come back

move the disc in a little more and get more pas, too much really
could not find a perfect spot and no mater what eventually it is going to move some i would think because it is just riding on that spindle..

questions are this

is this how this simple 1 level pas is supposed to work? wide open power? it seems the assist should be maybe 50% and then the throttle would override and take you to 100%
to me it seems this is malfunctioning??
or is it that the disc is not set right location wise and that it needs some kind of stop to keep it in place?

or if this is correct, is the only solution removing a couple of magnets again?

i would be interested in modifying this bike a little to have a few levels of pas , maybe a display
and it might be nice to have throttle override but also have a switch that kills pas so you can pedal with only throttle

i want to pay to do this, not learn myself

anyway looking for someone competent to do this in phoenix or tucson , az
could also haul the bike to san diego or LA if needed
any suggestions would be great
thank you

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by motomech » Jul 03 2016 10:39pm

i want to pay to do this, not learn myself
That's unfortunate.
You should learn enough that you don't make things harder than they need to be, like you are doing now.
I read though all that needless stuff you have been doing w/ the PAS disc., that's a waste of time, (the controller is how you tune a system) but I'm still unsure if your controller Is it a 3-speed PAS model or not? What's it's rating(in Amps)?

Top speed on 36 V w/ a 3-speed pas controller at it's lowest setting would be around 15 Mph, not exactly eye-watering.
And if we are talking a 15 Amp controller, then we will have a sub 600 Watt system(36 X 15 = 540), which is about as low power as they come.
This is a nice low-power 3-speed pas controller;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-36V-250W-6M ... sxrLPhfyrQ
To get even more tame performance, you would need to go with the excellent SO6S sine-wave controller w/ the super tunable S-LCD3 display from BMS Battery. The 5-level PAS is current (power) limited, rather than speed limited.
But be advised, installation of this controller/display is somewhat "techy" and requires programming.
It's not rocket science, but does require some study';
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/546-s0 ... e-kit.html
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/670-s- ... e-kit.html

Downloads at the bottom of the page.
Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/10Ah Multistar Lipo rear 4Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, Crazy Bobs run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =3&t=83430
'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 14S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. 23 MPH.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1378484

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 03 2016 11:06pm

unfortunately dont think i can answer all your questions, have not had the bike apart at all to be able to tell much about controller etc

this is a one speed pas system, no levels
it is on or off

right now i turn on power and can use the throttle with no pedalling because pas seems to be wide open
or i can pedal and depending on where the disc is sitting in relation to the sensor it is super fast or slow

it has a twist throttle and a 3 led battery level , that is it

this is the specs off the website where i bought the bike, dont think they will help



............. Cemoto electric folding mountain bicycle lithium power allows you to fold the bike in half, put in trunk of your car and take it to your camping trip or favorite trail. It is equipped with a 300 watt brushless geared rear hub motor and 36v lithium battery. Top speed of 20mph with a 30 + mile range. The battery is neatly tucked inside the alloy frame with a key lock and is removable for charging inside your home or on the bike. The frame is a full size 18' bicycle with 26' wheels and can easily fold in half to fit inside a Honda Civic trunk. No more messing with bike racks and you can now conveniently take your bike anywhere you want! The bike comes with:

-dual disk brakes - press brake levers will also turn off motor
-adjustable air suspension on rear, front fork has suspension - very nice smooth ride for on and off roading
-twist throttle mode on demand - on ride side handlebar
-PAS pedal assist system - using this will extend your range 30 + miles
-quick release front wheel & seat
-7 Speed Shimano derailleur & Shifter
-bell, led light & led battery life indicator
-battery charger included................


so we need to know how many amps the controller is before i can do/order anything? the battery is in the downtube on this bike, and i am guessing the controller etc is in the other side of the downtube

honestly the 3 magnets in the disc even though uneven worked pretty good, the bike was a decent speed with pas and the throttle override had decent ooomph over that
and i easily got 35-40 miles on the battery

i am not willing to try and swap out controllers etc , that is above my experience level but am very willing to pay someone who knows what they are doing to do all this for me

i can order parts needed and meet someone to put it together

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 04 2016 12:02am

just reading about battery chargers for something else and came across the V3 of the cycle analyst

could this be wired in to control my controller?

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by amberwolf » Jul 04 2016 12:51am

Many PAS controllers have a display screen that lets you change the settings for power levels. Some don't have one with them but could have one installed. Some have no provision for it.


If you can't post pics of the controller labels, or they're not accessible to check this, I could meet up with you some weekend (perhaps this coming Saturday), and we could at least get pics of things to post up here on ES for others to see and suggest changes, if there's nothing I can do to help directly.

I'm around the Metrocenter area in Phoenix, and depending on how hot it is, I could meet you somewhere in the area.


As for the CA, then depending on the bike's physical design, it can be used to replace the existing PAS with a THUN or other torque-sensing BB for the pedals to bolt to, then the throttle and torque-sensing BB would go thru the CA to the controller, and then the CA would translate your inputs into control of the bike's existing controller via it's throttle input (skipping it's PAS input entirely), based on whatever settings you choose in the CA.


But there may be easier/simpler (and cheaper) alternatives (even as much as I like the CA; sometimes it's not the best answer to a problem).

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 04 2016 1:03am

sat would be great, i can meet you anywhere

thanks for the info on the CA etc

it does not have to be a complicated system but a few hundred dollars is not an issue either, so whatever works/is easy is fine with me

looking like 105 in phx for sat, you just tell me where and when and i will be there

thank you for any help you can give me with this and i will pay you for your time

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by amberwolf » Jul 04 2016 1:21am

I'll have to let you know as we get closer to the day; waiting to find out my full work schedule first.


Meanwhile: a search on "cemoto" on the forum finds these:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... o#p1095118

The poster never bothered to put up pics so I have no idea what it looks like or what the connectors in question in that thread might look like or be for.


https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... o#p1070558

The second has some good high-res pics, including this one
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/downl ... ?id=171590
which shows the battery connection. The plate on the left is probably hidng the controller behind it.

This review of another bike by cemoto
http://electricbikereport.com/cemoto-ci ... res-specs/
shows a handlebar display that's possibly also usable for the controller on your bike; if not that one then a similar one might work.

If nothing else, a 3-speed switch might be installable on yours that would at least limit the max speed and/or throttle percentage...but it might not affect the PAS input (some do, some don't, I gather).


This page
http://electricbikereview.com/community ... bike.2012/
has a bit more info on yours, including something about a possibility for an "861" display. I haven't read past the first page, but there may be more in further pages of that thread.

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 04 2016 1:50am

that ebike guy was on ebr posting on a big cemoto thread we had over there

just went through it and found this one pic, from what they are saying cannot tell if this the controller in the bike now or one he is looking at using on it

ebike never did the mods, looks like he built another bike instead

http://www.elifebike.com/upfile/dtpic/2 ... _5FJM3.jpg

well the pic wont load, it puts this link in, hopefully it will open

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 04 2016 1:54am

also just saw electrobikeworld has a bike very, very similar to this one and it has an lcd and 5 levels of pas, wrote them to see if it that might be plug and play and if i can buy one....

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by dogman dan » Jul 04 2016 5:11am

My advice would be to remove the PAS, and run on just a throttle, if possible.

Once you get the hang of it, a great ride. Set you cadence, then use the throttle to constantly adjust the power level so your effort level remains constant.

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 04 2016 10:11am

would like to have pas also but it may come down to removing it and only using throttle

i tend to ride 15-25 miles each time and it seems like a long time to be holding the throttle off/on

will see what we come up with this weekend when looking at the controller etc

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 05 2016 10:13am

amberwolf have a feeling you already know all this
but trying not to waste your time and others on the forum i wrote justin at grin about the CA thinking there was no way it would work with my 1 level pas controller and that maybe i would need to purchase another controller too etc

i am not set on the CA but this is what he said

---------------
Hi Courtney, it's not wishful thinking, you can use the CA3 to add PAS or torque sensing or other features to any controller that responds to a throttle signal. However, it does involve some level of custom wiring on your bike. You'll need to get the Stand Alone CA shunt and hook that inline with the battery leads, connect your throttle and PAS sensors to the CA3 instead of to the controller, and then take the green throttle output wire that is on the shunt pigtail and hook that up to the throttle input of your motor controller.

If that all sounds doable, then no problem. If it sounds like gibberish, then it's probably not a job you'd want to take on unless you really like to tinker and learn about ebike electrical systems.
----------------


so reading this would it be easier- less wiring/programming etc if we also bought a controller from them that works with the CA?
this is all way over my head

hoping to see you sometime sat, we are both having lousy hot weather all week

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by amberwolf » Jul 05 2016 1:26pm

cvin wrote:amberwolf have a feeling you already know all this
but trying not to waste your time and others on the forum i wrote justin at grin about the CA thinking there was no way it would work with my 1 level pas controller and that maybe i would need to purchase another controller too etc
Oh, it'll work with it, as long as your controller does not require you to pedal first before you can use the throttle. :)

so reading this would it be easier- less wiring/programming etc if we also bought a controller from them that works with the CA?
Not really.

If you get the Grin controller it's just prewired with the connectors to just plug things (from Grin) together. But then it probably won't have the connectors to plug into your motor, battery, etc., as those are probably different on your bike. While we can splice in the old wires to the new controller, it's just as easy to leave the old controller and splice in the CA wires. Plus, the new controller is not necessarily going to fit into the space the old one is in.

Whichever way it's done, there's going to be some amount of modification to the bike itself, to allow the new wires from the CA to go into the controller area (potentially drilling a hole or expanding an existing one).


Setting up the CA for any new bike is a small task, but it does have a step-by-step process that must be gone thru (See Teklektik's Unofficial User Guide on the grin site or here on ES, if you're curious) to set it up initially for this kind of control.


Also...there's plain PAS, where it just detects that you *are* pedalling, and then there's torque-sensing PAS, where it detects how *hard* you are pedalling and increases power based on that. The latter requires replacing the part the pedals attach to (BB unit), so it depends on that part of the bike being the same standard as the sensor units available for this.


You'll also want to mount the CA unit itself to the handlebars so you can see what's happening at least during testing, and use the readouts/etc for monitoring the system if you want that sort of thing. Once it's all setup, you can hide the CA away in a bag or whatever, if you don't want it on the bars; it just has to be left on the bike somewhere.

hoping to see you sometime sat, we are both having lousy hot weather all week
Yeah, not as bad as it could be, though. I think it's gonna be around 107-108F every day. So probably Saturday morning, once I find out if I'm working that day. I'll PM you with specifics once I know.

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 05 2016 9:31pm

mine does not require that you pedal before the throttle will work, i use it all the time walking it up the ramp into my house

have plain pas, not torque sensing- i am 98% sure....
it acts nothing like my easy motion bike , but the pas is also kind of screwy right now

if we were able to upgrade it to torque sensing that would be great, if not no big deal

i realize wires will be cut/spliced etc on the bike, way past any warranty so no issue at all there
we can do whatever we need for it


and i would be thrilled with the CA on the handlebars for reading battery amps, cadence, speed etc

if easier i can leave the bike up there for a week or 2, whatever works

wont order anything until you look stuff over sat- or whenever you have time
unless you want me to go ahead and get the CA and other stuff justin recommended, i can order it tonite if you want

thanks so much for all your help with this

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by amberwolf » Jul 06 2016 12:30am

cvin wrote:mine does not require that you pedal before the throttle will work, i use it all the time walking it up the ramp into my house
Then that means the existing controller would work fine with the CA's control method.


if we were able to upgrade it to torque sensing that would be great, if not no big deal
That just needs the torque-sensing BB unit with the CA then (replacing your existing PAS sensor); but we have to look at the bike to see if it will fit.



if easier i can leave the bike up there for a week or 2, whatever works

wont order anything until you look stuff over sat- or whenever you have time
unless you want me to go ahead and get the CA and other stuff justin recommended, i can order it tonite if you want
I would just wait until we know for sure what is needed, so you can get it all at once and save time and shipping and whatnot, and not get stuff you don't need or can't use.

It's probably better for you to keep the bike with you, at least until you have all the stuff you need to make it work like you want.

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 06 2016 12:33am

sounds good, hope we can get together sat

i work in phx a lot so can adjust my schedule to get up another day if sat does not work

really excited to get all this done!!

thank you again!

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 08 2016 1:30am

the power on/off button has started sticking

the twist throttle is directly to the right of this switch/button

here are some pics
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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by amberwolf » Jul 08 2016 1:38am

If it's the switch itself I might have one I could take out something else to replace it with. If it's the button plastics then it depends on what's wrong how it might be fixed (without replacing the unit).

I have a bunch of full-grip throttles but they don't have any battery meter or switch attached, so they won't help this.

There are separate button units available to order on the web (though I don't have any links), or the whole unit could be replaced with a similar or identical one.

I could make a bracket that would hold a toggle switch or pushbutton, or one could be attached to a plate mounted along with the CA (if that's what you end up going with), etc.

Lot of possibilities to fix that, but first have to see it in person, and probably open it up to see which part is sticking.

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 08 2016 1:44am

was going to use the bike the other day and pushed the switch to see where the battery was
could barely get it to turn on, the red button would not go in....
never had it happen before

then once on could hardly get it to turn off, maybe it just has some dirt jamming it or something


we will see what you think saturday

thanks again for all the help

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by docw009 » Jul 08 2016 10:16am

Cheap on ebay, if it cannot be unstuck.
Looks like your switch

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 08 2016 11:27am

thank you doc

i did a search last night and did not see that one

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by amberwolf » Jul 09 2016 8:34pm

We met up as scheduled, and chatted a fair bit as and after looking over the bike and figuring out what can be done.

The power switch problem is in the red button and casing around it; it's basically friction between them probably from aging/warping of the plastic surfaces; I've had this happen to various stuff over the years even when it's not ever out in the sun/heat. Initial fix was simply to shave a tiny bit of the plastic off the casing around the red button itself, and reassemble it. Now it works almost reliably, but not perfectly.

AIUI the unit linked in a previous post is now on order but it will take quite some time to arrive, so if the switch fails to operate again, the red plastic button can simply be removed and the switch inside can then be cycled with a pinky (or a tool).


Regarding the bike's controller/PAS, it definitely doesn't have a place to connect an LCD to adjust control as it is being ridden. There *is* a programming pad set, like many do these days, but without the software for that controller, it can't be programmed. It might not even be programmable beyond what is done at the factory, anyway (some use OTP MCUs or are otherwise unchangeable).


It is also a very small 6FET controller, smaller than a pack of cigarettes--perhaps half the size of the smallest one I've ever held in my hand. Sorry these pics are not that clear; the camera doesn't work quite right these days.
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I think it may be the same MCU class that's in the 12FETs on my SB Cruiser trike A06-somethng or other, as it has some of the same pads marked on there, but it's definitely a low-power controller (even if it werent' trapped inside the bike frame with no good quick heat-exit-pathway). Appears to have the self-learn wires, and has a couple of others I am not certain about that arent' connected, but that's it.

Has "standard" JST connectors and wiring for the ebrake
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and PAS
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etc




So there's no direct way to change the PAS levels/etc on it that I can find, at least not that we can access.


There is not much space inside the frame's controller area, though, so a larger controller might not fit (at least, not with the wire bundle, too). Even the small 6FET I have from Fusin probably wouldn't fit in there. So upgrading to a controller with an LCD on the bars for adding multiple PAS settings might not be possible without putting the controller on the outside of the frame somewhere, depending on the controller's actual size, and the associated wiring/connectors.


However, using the CAv3 as an intermediary between the existing throttle, ebrakes, and PAS and the controller is certainly possible, as is taking off the PAS it already has and replacing it with the THUN or TCDM torque-sensing BBs--which Cvin would prefer to do as it should give better control than just the cadence PAS sensor it has now.

The bike frame's BB shell is 68mm wide, seems to be regular threaded type, and appears to be standard square-taper cranks, so the regular units from Grin Tech should fit right in there. However, the existing BB spindle is perhaps 135-140mm long (havent' taken the cranks off to get exact measurement), so none of the available BB TS's will be an exact replacement; the cranks will end up closer by at least 5-7mm per side, I think. Thankfully, this doens't matter as far as crank/pedal clearance to the frame goes, because there is well over 2cm clearance there now. It *would* affect the chainline some, but as there is only a single larger-than-normal front ring, there's no front derailer to deal with, and it will probably still allow normal shifting of the rear gears.



So at present the plan is for Cvin to verify with Grin Tech which TS BB (THUN or TDCM) would work better for the intended usage, and then order that, plus the CAv3 DPS, plus the appropriate shunt and probably extension cable to reach the CA (I was planning on making one but the wire I have with enough conductors is so thick it may not fit in the holes with other cables, and/or fit in the controller area with everything else).

And a stem-mount adapter plate to center it adn keep the bars clear, and the JST connector bag, so I can cut the existing throttle and ebrake cables, and add mating connectors to then make them inputs to the CA, and then add connectors to the cables from the controller to make them outputs from the CA.

If we have to flash the CA or get data to/from it from a PC, I already have the USB-serial cable for my Satiator that should work with it.


Once the stuff comes in we'll get together again and get it all installed and setup.

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by cvin » Jul 10 2016 1:33am

it was awesome to meet amberwolf today, he is very talented at all this and obviously knows exactly what he is doing!

i am very lucky to have him available to do the mods for the bike

excited about getting the bike upgraded!

amberwolf got the message with the link for the wire thing
added that to the list


emailed grin earlier today but no reply yet

as soon as we have their input on the best torque set i will make up a cart with the order and post it here so you can double check before i place it


thanks again for all your time this morning and sharing your knowledge with me

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amberwolf   100 GW

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by amberwolf » Jul 17 2016 9:31pm

The parts and bike were brougth over late this morning. First up was removing the old BB spindle so I could install the TDCM. Removing the cranks was easy...but then I spent over 2 hours trying to find my splined BB tool, and couldn't (also can't find my splined FW remover, but I don't need that for this bike). (all these should've been together in my bike-specific-toolset)

I called a couple of the bike shops that were open today (it's a Sunday), that were only a few miles away and could be reached before they closed, but neither had a tool in stock or in their shops that could remove the 20-spline type BB cups. Seems odd as that's one I've seen a lot (which is why I had one); Park Tool makes two versions, the BBT-2 and BBT-22; I don't remember which mine was.

So I had to do some improvising, and tried a number of things thtat didn't work. I wound up having to damage the old PAS bracket (which won't be used anymore anyway on this bike), cutting it's ring and pulling it out from under the lockring/cup lip, which then freed the cup to be able to be turned with curved-jaw pliers. :/
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Once there was no further pressure from the spindle I could also then easily turn the other end's cup to get it out.


Then I drilled the hole for the cable, as specified in the TDCM install manual:
https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/TDCMGuide.pdf
though I mis-marked it the first time and had to redrill next to it a few mm farther left, so the sealing plug that comes with the TDCM cable to fill the hole only fills part of it, and I used some sealant to fill the rest of the first one. Greased the threads on the BB, and installed the TDCM and caps and lockrings. I don't have a torque wrench to set the specific nm it asks for, so as noted in the guide linked above I'll ahve to get the unit setup in the CA and then work with the readings to verify/set the tightness of the caps/lockrings.



Once that was done, next up was removing the old PAS sensor itself, pulling the cable up thru the holes in the frame for it and then sticking it and it's bracket in the box the new stuff came in (so all that will still be there for Cvin if needed either as spares or to return this bike back to it's original state if ever desired).



NExt was installing the CA's shunt between the battery connector and controller. I removed the original wires from the connector and installed just the shunt's wires from it to the original controller connector bullets, as it is pretty cramped in the little space there is for the controller and wires, so any excess wire or stuff that doesnt' have to be there is better off not to be. :)
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Passing the CA's 6-pin cable thru the brackets for wiring on the frame won't fit without cuttng/splicing the cable, or desoldering it from the CA inside and then passing it back thru everything and resoldering, so it'll have to be ziptied to the cables that are already there.


There is a little issue I didn't foresee, though:

I'd forgotten that the CA would be powered all the time that the bike is folded open, since the key doesn't turn off the battery, just physically locks/unlocks it inside the toptube. So left on all the time it'd drain the battery, though it would take a while.

This one is easy to deal with: I just have to use an extra wire and connector from the throttle/switch unit to use the switch to control the CA's power, too, by opening the CA's main cable and disconnecting the power that normally comes from it's shunt (whcih is down at the battery output on the controller side of the bike fold joint).

Then the switch will turn the whole bike, CA included, on and off just like normal. If the switch or throttle ever has to be replaced, the replacement can be done up the same way easily enough.

So the CA is mounted on the stem-mount from Grin, and fits nicely right there. It's a nice mount, with just enough flexibility to the metal to bend it a bit if you did need to, to make it fit your stem shape.
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Now I'm in the process of cutting the ebrake and throttle cables to add in matching connectors to go to/from the CA now. I've already verified that the CA can read at least the speed of pedalling on the new sensor; gotta set it up for the torque sensor part to verify the rest of it's function.


I'd expected to be able to do all the physical install in a couple hours and then spend the rest of today doing the CA setup, but it's definitely not going to be finished in a day. Gotta go make dinner to stop the shaky hands first, and then finish the connector/wiring stuff, then maybe go thru some of the settings if I have any time/energy left before I conk out.

Then continue with it tomorrow to do what I can before I have to go t work...but I don't expect to be done with it by then. :/

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amberwolf   100 GW

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Re: help with mods in tucson or phoenix, az

Post by amberwolf » Aug 11 2016 12:38am

This has taken a lot longer than planned. :/
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Intervening events:
First I had the fire on the trike, and had to get the bike up and running, spent some time trying to get the trike going again but realized it'd need full rewiring....

Next I found that the wrong CAv3 had been sent from Grin--was supposed to be the DPS with speed sensor, but even though the invoice did have DPS on it, a DP was sent. So Cvin got the right one sent from Grin, and picked up the other to send back.

And getting a replacment throttle/switch unit (to ensure the switch problems wouldn't persist) delayed the wiring/connector stuff on the bars a little bit.

After that it's just been a bunch of little things, mostly household stuff.


Anyway, now all the installation is physically done, and am just going thru the setup of the torque sensor / PAS in the CA menus, via Teklektik's UUG. It's more complicated than I'd expected, as various things interact, and is taking longer than I thought to do it. I've had to step away from it to let my mind clear a few times, and will probably have to resume it tomorrow at this point.


Right now it's just setup as throttle pass-thru mode, with the throttle in and out calibrated for this throttle and controller, and some of the other basic stuff (wheel diameter, Miles vs Km, etc) setup in the CA.

I'm going to get my Satiator's PC attachment cable out and use it to save teh present CA setup, and then try using the PC setup software to work thru the settings instead of going thru the menus on the CA itself; it might make things a bit easier.



Regarding the physical setup and wiring:


Since the system has no switch to disconnect the battery, then with the CA powered off the shunt hooked to the battery connector, it would be on all the time, draining the battery (albeit not very quickly).

But there *is* a switch to turn off the LVPS in the controller (using the "Ignition / keyswitch" wire common to many controllers). So I redid some of the JST connectors on the controller, inside the bike frame, to simplify that wiring and prevent misconnection (there's a lot of 2-pin connectors in there, some of which would make smoke if hooked up to each other!).

This is now a single 4pin JST (so it can't be accidentally plugge dinto any of the other JSTs in the bay), which has the single power-monitoring wire from the controller side to the switch/throttle/meter unit's meter wire, then an empty pin, then the wires that provide power to the controller from teh switch, then the wires taht go from battery to switch.

Then I routed the CA's power wire off the shunt and to the controller side of the switch, crimped into the same pin as the cotnroller. So now the CA is turned on by the same switch that turns on the controller and battery meter on the bars.


On the bars, I cut the wires (blue/red) from the ebrake handles, and put both of them into one 4pin JST to mate to the CA's brake input. But just in case something goes wrong in the field with the CA, I put a mating connector on the other end of the brake cable to the controller, too. That will be left unconnected unless needed, as the ebrakes are no longer needed to connect direclty to the controller; the CA interprets them as needed to shutdown throttle signal output to teh controller, effectively doing the same thing.


Then I sliced into the insulation for the throttle/switch/meter unit, and pulled out the throttle wires (red/black/white), and put 3pin JSTs on there to hook up to each other (if the CA has to be taken out of the loop for any reason), or in the normal case to hook up the throttle outut to the CA's throttle input.

Then sliced into insulation fo the CA 6wire cable to the shunt, and pulled out just the throttle wire from there. I did this rather than run a wire all the way back up to the bars from the shunt, as ther's already a lot of wires, and no need for it. That wire went into it's own 3pin JST to plug into the one going to the controller, to carry teh output from the CA to tell the contrller what to do as it translates the torque sensor/PAS and throttle and brake inputs.


The speed sensor is mounted just below the one that was already on there for a bike computer, routed and tied down in a way that allows the computers' sensor to be removed without interfering with the CA's.


I used some of the corrugated split-tubing covering Cvin brought by to go over the under-frame wires, and tied it down,
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and used teh velcro cover provided with teh CA to cover it's wire bundle and connectors.
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So now it looks fairly neat, though it isn't really perfect.
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Once I've got the torque sensor/etc working as desired, I still need to take the suspension apart as requested, and get detailed pics of it's parts, see if there's any wear or damage, or if the slop in it is just the way it's designed.

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