Radwagon Cargo bike

I just purchased the Radwagon Cargo bike. I'm satisfied with the power and build but it doesn't shift very well? Local bike shop worked on it but gears still slip while hill climbing. Anyone else have issues with their Radwagon? Might just be an issue with all ECargo bikes--very long tail, and long, long chain. Maybe it's an ecargo design weakness? Anyone else own a Radwagon? Haven't added the running boards or panniers.
http://www.radpowerbikes.com/pages/radwagon

Please be more specific about the issue. Is the:

- Chain actually jumping over the same cog? (chain tension or worn cassette)
- refusing to shift up or constantly falling to a lower gear? (insufficient cable tension)
- refusing to shift down? (too much cable tension)
- auto shifting up or down? (incorrect derailleur for number of gears, incorrectly set derailleur)
- shifting lacking 'snappyness' which cannot be corrected with cable tension (often a link or two out of the chain can help here or increased chain tension)

Its pretty hard to help with specifics, I'm guessing here.

Put the bike in a stand or suspend the rear end from the ceiling. Go through setting the rear derailluer from scratch, its pretty simple really theres plenty of instructions on Park Tool website. Then you'll know exactly whats wrong AND how to fix it.

derailleur setting can be a bit fickle and bike shops aren't always as fabulous as they make out they are. If you learn how to do this now, you'll know how to deal with it for life without paying someone or being feed bullsh*t for money. This is exactly why I don't use bike shops anymore, at all.

The tools you need - screwdrivers and allen keys. Buy quality, park tool or pedros, you'll definitely use these again in the future.

Thanks for the fast reply. The bike autoshifts climbing steep hills. Your advice is appreciated. Yeah, I should repair my own bikes but my free time is very limited and with Vermont bike seasons painfully short, it's easier and more convenient to outsource the repairs.

Don't know if you bought second hand bike or brand spanking new. [strike]If second hand you could replace the chain, cassette, derailure and front cog.[/strike] I now see you have posted again while I didn't refresh my tab. As stated in post #2 derailure adjustment.
If you don't wanna take the time to fix yourself, go back to the dealer and make them work for their paycheck. This should be an easy fix for a bike mechanic.


Enjoy your new long tail. It's a nice bike.

I have had a radwagon for a few months now. I am generally very satisfied with the bike. I did not have any problems with the gears, I regularly shift through the whole range (I try to pedal as much as I can in my commute) and I live in the middle of an extremely steep hill (+20%). Even in the hill fully loaded with my three year old in the back, I have never experienced any gear slipping. This is not to say that I did not have some issues. My bike came initially with a bent/defective fork and I had to get the company to send me a new one (which they did immediately btw). Also, adjusting the brakes was far from trivial for me and I ended up taking into a shop to help me get them right.

I am just learning, so I am not one to give advice on bike mechanics but it seems like the issue you are having is completely unrelated to either this being a cargo bike or with the electrical system, since it is a rear wheel hub motor and thus decoupled from the mechanical "powertrain".

atxmarmot, glad to know your bike is running well. I'm satisfied with the bikes power but shifting is an issue. My Radwagon is new, purchased from the web so can't take it back to the company. I'll drop it off at the local bike shop to address the gears.

georgefromvt said:

...Yeah, I should repair my own bikes but my free time is very limited and with Vermont bike seasons painfully short, it's easier and more convenient to outsource the repairs.

Click to expand...

Actually, I'm in the same boat and its exactly why I stopped using bike shops. Humor me and test something out for me in this process. Time how long it takes to take the bike to the shop, talk to the guy, get a ticket, leave, return, talk to the guy, ride it home and hopefully its repaired.

I've found derailleurs can be tricky and can respond differently under load to what they do on a stand. Bike shops have limited time and the mechanics will stick it on a stand, adjust, turn, adjust turn. they may or may not test ride it and give it back to you.

Bear in mind a cable tension adjustment is usually one knob on the derailleur you can turn with your fingers, you don't even need tools. Its going to be pretty hard to beat that for time going to a shop... 8) Its not something to be afraid of, or to consider to be uber time consuming. After all, if you adjust it and its still wrong, you can still take it to a shop its very unlikely to do any damage.

Lurkin said:

georgefromvt said:

...Yeah, I should repair my own bikes but my free time is very limited and with Vermont bike seasons painfully short, it's easier and more convenient to outsource the repairs.

Click to expand...

Actually, I'm in the same boat and its exactly why I stopped using bike shops. Humor me and test something out for me in this process. Time how long it takes to take the bike to the shop, talk to the guy, get a ticket, leave, return, talk to the guy, ride it home and hopefully its repaired.

I've found derailleurs can be tricky and can respond differently under load to what they do on a stand. Bike shops have limited time and the mechanics will stick it on a stand, adjust, turn, adjust turn. they may or may not test ride it and give it back to you.

Bear in mind a cable tension adjustment is usually one knob on the derailleur you can turn with your fingers, you don't even need tools. Its going to be pretty hard to beat that for time going to a shop... 8) Its not something to be afraid of, or to consider to be uber time consuming. After all, if you adjust it and its still wrong, you can still take it to a shop its very unlikely to do any damage.

Click to expand...

Great advice, I can't make it any worse I guess. I'll start Youtubing instructions. Will keep you posted. Thanks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTprZHCwoNc

Lurkin said:

I've found derailleurs can be tricky and can respond differently under load to what they do on a stand.

Click to expand...

To test under load on a stand, since it has a rear hub, if it's a DD hub with regen braking just engage that (with a mostly-discharged battery for greatest effect) and then do the testing/adjusting; it will give some resistance.

If you need more than that, disconnect the motor phase wires from teh controller, then short the motor phase wires all together to each other (and nothing else).

Bear in mind a cable tension adjustment is usually one knob on the derailleur you can turn with your fingers, you don't even need tools.

Click to expand...

Many of the shifters I've used also have a tension adjust knob, too, so it's right on the bars and can be adjusted during a ride (once you've already got the limit screws set, and any other derailer-specific adjustments).


That said, I'd check first to be sure the derailer cage or hanger isn't bent from shipping, because it's easy to bend most of them, and that will cause various problems.

For more on that, and ajdustment info:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html

You could have a sticky chain link or master link!

Problem solved!! Yeah, I feel stupid. The running board was pressing against the derailleur. I removed the running board, now shifts easier and doesn't autoshift under resistance. I'll add the running board after I've drilled some new holes in the wooden boards to adjust for clearance. Thanks for all your help and suggestions.