48V 45A Controller Stop Working After Batt Upgrade

Greets guys im new to Endless-sphere.com thx for having me
looks like a good bunchs of talented forums users

Hope you can help and here we go with my story ...

i have build a new battery made of 112 cells Panasonics PF i did a 58.8V 23AH Batt 14S 8P
and my previous batt was a 48V 20ah 13S 9P made of Samsung 22P
My Controller is a 48V 45A 15 MOSFET Hy3208 80V 120A 470Uf 63V casps

So I have been told that 48V controller can handle 58.8V batt

So i plug the battery to the controller and i have been able to turn on the LCD display
then 5 secs later the lcd turn off and never been able to turn it back on

Now the Question that kills did i fry my 48V controller ? did i damage my 1500w motor ?
If the controller is dead can you tell me if i buy this controller this will works with my 58.8v Batt
the model im looking at is replacement .. GREENTIME 15 Mosfets IRFB4410 48-84V 1500W 45Amax
Thx For The Helping Hands Guys!

No. The controller should handle up to 63V without a problem, but the display limits it to 60V iirc. The greentime controller will work, but probably not with the display, as it requires a display compatible controller. If you killed it or not, I couldn't say, but 58.8V wouldn't kill it unless it was defective to begin with.

As long as you hooked back up with the polarity right, you did no harm. No telling why it stopped working.

Thx for the reply guys

Well i have purchase another 48V controller and i have the same issue
so im suspecting the LCD display

The LCD got 2 connectors one 5wires & one 2 wires a brown and a white wires who have it own connector
those brown and white wires was connected to the controller black and red and it was working fine before
Durring the time i was building the battery i remove my motor from my comute bike but left the wires on the bike
when i re assemble the E-kit i notice the brown and white connector was missing so i end up with 2 wires no connector
So i guessed who was positive and negative as far for brown and white .... too bad i didn't know there was a pdf that say who's positive and negative https://5kwt.ru/LCD-Instructions-SW900.pdf
I think by reverting the 5v polarity on the lcd power i might have fry the lcd display
The way im turing on the bike is by holding the button for 5 secs and the lcd display turns on bike is powed on!

So my question is ... is it possible to turn on a controller without the lcd screen been connected only Throttle , Hall wires 3 phases wires And Batt Power

Thx hope you can understand my bad gibberish ENG

This along with your pdf file should give you an idea of how to do it. Should just need to short battery positive to lock and ground to RX. at least that's how I see it. I don't have a display controller, so do so at your own risk.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=57715#p886130

Thx for the reply wesnewell

Question: im not shure where do i get the positive from ?
1) From the 58.8V batt positive ?
2) Red Line (D+): Power Positive from the controller 5 wires connector

how about this Red+Blue & Green+Black?


Red Line (D+): Power Positive
Blue Line (DS): Controller’s electric door lock
Black Line (GND): Power Negative
Green Line (RX): Receiving communication
Yellow Line (TX): Sending communication

Brown Line (DD+): Lighting control’s Positive
White Line (GND): Lighting control’s Negative

Thx

Looks like D+ to DS, and RX to GND to me would match what the other link says, so red to blue and black to green. The first is the ignition to turn controller on, and the second is to send a ground signal back the to controller. Just doing the first might get it working. If not do the second. if that doesn't work, you're on your own.

Thx wesnewell for your helping hands it's apreciated !!

Well with the method of shorting the D+ to DS, the controller turn on so i didn't need to short Black & RX or TX
So this leave me with the TX & RX & GND not touched

Im wondering if there's a way i can reduce the amount of voltage send from the controller to the LCD
The LCD positive and negative ares connected to the controller pcb VB+ VB-

I have been able to turn on the lcd using a powersupply source 12V 1A using Red & black of the lcd
but the thing is if im using the GRN on the connector near TX & RX This GRN is 58V right ? since it's VB-

PS: i did look inside the config of P0 to P16 setup functions and P03 let me choose the Voltages Grades from 36V 48V 60V 72V
i try 60V no luck try 72V still the same

First post from Denver CO, I had the same 48v kit and it worked great for 400 +miles @ 54.6v peak but after upgrading from 48v to to a 72v I'm on my 3rd "SW900" display this year. I have a new 72v 1500w ebike kit and the longest the display will last so far is 125 miles (first one lasted 50 miles). It works perfect until you turn it off then it will never turn back on. I too thought it was the controller at first and after buying a new controller and display turned out to be the display. I found a fried chip in the display "overheated"and the manufacture said its due to misuse, guess I don't know how hard I ride!!!, haha. Anyway Im using a 20s8p 1600w battery 84v peak and its within specs. The display will get warm during use and I have let the manufacture know this happens, but its my fault...I guess!?

Prostreet did the wiring mod work to get you up and running again?

I just want this ebike to work the next time the display fries and I will just wire in a switch for the D+ to DS out of the controller directly and ditch the display. I'll test this out If I dont hear back from anyone on my "new" spare controller and throw it on my u tube channel "Same name" in a few weeks.

Glad to see there is a community of ebikers!

Hi Guys my first time on here. Here's a useful page for setting original factory settings of the sw900
http://wing-ebikes.co.uk/?page_id=893 I'm sure most of have read the manual but that is useless without a full understanding of lcds functionality and original factory settings and of course what they all mean.
I'm having all sorts of problems with mine but you know that's good because then I can pass it on. So far I've overcharged my batteries with the wrong charger and exploded it in the front living room. Taking outside it erupted into flames firing batteries everywhere and the firemen had to come and bring order. Damage £80 worth of used batteries, £100 trunk bag, £48 controller, wires etc and of course my pride. Next like an idiot I bought a new Chinese controller and reconnected severed and burnt wires and nothing happened. So with a ebike tester (white box thingy) I managed to self teach myself the problems with hall sensors in motor and throttle. Replaced those greased up the inside to protect it from rust as it was a rust bucket in the hub. Still nothing happened, then I came across the SW900 manual without the original factory settings and did my best. Still no joy. Well now I've got through just about all the error messages including 3,6,7,8, and 10. But alas I'm still perplexed at why my bike cuts out mid ride, the speed odometer isn't working and my cruise 'walk' function doesn't switch on. Battery flicks back and forth but I'm grateful that the watt of the battery is showing. Any help would be appreciated.

solve