front hub motor 100mm dropout and width less than 75mm

okay.....i got a bike that the front forks bend a little inward leaving after inch up from the center of the forks 3 inches. that is left to right. i belive that is 76 mm roughly...but that is it.....what are my options for a front motor? and why in the hell can't these kit people make this stuff easily accessible?

but i believe the front forks are 100mm rougjhly four inches at the center....they forks just curve inward a little. so after an inch up my distance is 75 mm left to right and it stays that way the entire way up. sorry for the confusion.

are there any motors out there. i am guessing maybe a dd motor....that is 100mm front dropout normal but its width can not be more than 75mm. preferably 60 or 70mm would probably be the max. my forks are 75mm width after one inch above the dropouts.

The Aotema might be the narrowest.
I didn't see any diagrams, but you can contact Terry(good guy, I have bought stuff from him);
http://www.hightekbikes.com/aotema-hub-motor-conversion-kit.html

1,, why do you need to use a front motor?

2,, can you get a different fork?

3,, can you get a different bike?

Emailed him and less than a day he said he check into the width but he said that's cutting it close. Thank you. Sorry dogman computer crashed. But. Lets go with current bike and finding a dd. I assume dd. Why make things easy.

You haven't given enough info to get any meaningful answers. We need to see your forks. What wheel size do you have?
Steel non-suspension forks can be spread to fit a motor. If your bike has small wheels. the Q85 is an excellent motor, but you still have to spread the forks 10mm.

I don't know of any front motors, including the aotema, that will really fit in that space. If it came up 2 inches, then narrowed, you would have some choices out there, such as the 9 continent/golden motor, etc. But you need the fork to clear the disc mount, which is about 2 inches.

So again,,, why must it be a front motor? Is it because you want to ruin your favorite bike with a motor? Grab a cheap steel MTB, put a good saddle on it, and let er rip with a rear hub motor.

Or get a fork.

appologize. its got front suspension . 26 inch tire. its steel. basically the dropout is your standard front dropout size of 100mm.hard to get an accurate measure with spokes involved but it seems the norm. i have a 26 inch tire and probably so diameter..the entire pie length from top to bottom....from 6 oclock to 12 oclock there should be no concerns assume the hub is less than 15 inches long. the issue is the forks curve inward after about one inch. brakes are vbrake/rim brakes. so the disc doesn't bother me initially. i understand this may create issues on slowing down but i will use the rim brake and ebrake cut off was idea. i was hoping to keep speeds less than 20. but if more great. however on my mountain bike 180 pound rider want i need around 400 watts to the wheel to get to twenty. (flat 500 watts input. uphill maybe 1000 watts) it has knobby tires so i really don't seeing me going above twenty one for safety and two because of range of battery. sorry i didn't disclose i was not interested in disc ...so that is a game changer then....i think we may have some options. maybe...... i like this bike its got dual suspension its steel. feels nice. 100 walmart bike on sale. i really don't wont to fork out extra money for new forks to put on it. q85 is like 82 mm wide and q75 is roughly the same. surely there is a dd that is thin enough. the problem is i can't seem to find any dimensions for these motors. this seems to be the only place. is this some kind of trade secret? and as always i appreciate all your input.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/48v-1000w-700C-29-Front-Wheel-Ebike-Conversion-Kit-Sine-Wave-Controller-LCD3-/231804899153

something like that would be cool but again i can't find motor width. and also i don't know if the guy has v brakes.

lol tear up my favorite bike....yeah thats going to be true if i put 1000 watts up front. double torque arms will be needed and that's something else i need to find out from that seller or any seller if they can fit. yeah i could choose any motor in the world basically if i used the rear. but i just want something simple for my first build using exsisting equipment and i would like to find something i could replicate on almost any bike system. also these dd seeem kinda cool sounds like they are battery hogs but sounds like they will just eat the amps.

When I put my first front hub motor on you first suspension fork, it was a lot of work!!! The back wheel IMO is much easier to install, and you only need a torque arm on one side.

I recommend putting your dd motor on the back.

i will probably go that way ebeach. what kind of dd motor do you have? and what are the dimensions. what's your setup like how many watts.

the truth be told...i would like a dd up front and a gasser in the rear. little 49cc kit. that would be perfect. but with these power ratings of 36 volt 22 amp up front and 49 cc....3000 watts we will have to wait and see. ideally i would like 1000 watts of gas power in the rear. i dont think these bikes can take this kind of abuse. but oh well.....

the above motor specs.....crazy though magnet body???? 13.65 by 3 by 30 mm..... length times width time height? 3mm wide? surely they must meen 30mm wide. could this be accurate dd hub motors are 30mm wide?


2015 New Style Black 36/48V 1000W Brushless Gearless Hub Motor for Front Wheel

Voltage: 36/48V
Power: 1000W
Motor Type: Brushless Gearless Hub Motor
Motor Color: Matte Black
Motor Net Weight: 6.2kgs
Motor Diameter: 24.3cm
Hall Sensor Quantity: 3pcs
Max. Speed: 480RPM
Max. Torque: 25N.M
Magnet Body Size: 13.65x3x30mm
Axel Diameter: 14mm
Hub dropout width: 100mm front or 135mm rear hub motor(Support Single, 6 or 7-Speed Gear ONLY)
Brake: support 6-hole type disc brake
Corresponding Controller: 1000W Controller
Available Wheel Size: 16"，18", 20", 24", 26", 700C, 28", 29"

Notice: Price is for the hub motor ONLY.




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mountain biker said:

the truth be told...i would like a dd up front and a gasser in the rear. little 49cc kit. that would be perfect. but with these power ratings of 36 volt 22 amp up front and 49 cc....3000 watts we will have to wait and see. ideally i would like 1000 watts of gas power in the rear. i dont think these bikes can take this kind of abuse. but oh well.....

Click to expand...

Then forget the electric stuff and build a gasser.
The attraction of going electric is so different from gas, that a hybird makes little sense and you would just wasting money.
Ebike riders are looking for;
1)Silence
2)No fumes
3)Green transpo.
4)Stealth
5)Ability to add input thru the pedals.

Combining both systems and carrying enough batteries to make the elect. motor useful, will leave the bike so heavy that neither system will be optimized. You would be building a boat anchor.

Frankly, a gasser will cost less than an ebike of equal performance and if you are looking for overall economy(I'm not sure what you are looking for), you would be Dollars ahead going gas-powered in the first place.

oh yeah gasser is the way to go 200 bukcs gets you like 3hp. around 100 miles per gallon etc.... funny thing is many states allow 2.5 bhp but clearly state no more than 750 watts electric. the last tour de france some lady put a 24 cc engine down the tube shaft. officials found it hour later on down the race. the noise according to you tube videos on those gassers are the same to running a 2 foot chainsaw. probably wont be winning any stealth awards. lol...go figure. thats nuts on a bike. down right silly. but oh well....so what about this deal i got 75mm after the one inch mark no disc brake what dd or any hub would work? the one above i just noticed said 24 mm motor diameter. does that make sense? that would work right in terms of size. 36 volts 22 amps i would be about at my limits or 48 volts 22 amps....
480 rpm does that mean my motor gets hot and risk overheating at half that 240 rpm around 19 mph on a 26 inch bike? and i assume this means what ever max level i set to pas it will consume every amp allowable because there is no way in hell this thing is going to do 40 mph on 750 or 1000 watts. right?

i may start another thread but since the idea was brough up about hybrid effiency. 100 mpg. 3 percent return on regen braking. you know the gasser can push it. so every 100 miles i get 3 miles of electric power just like i was going down hill constantlly. not a perfect world but i would take it if it was offered. meaning this could really become a great bug out vehicle if the zombies come to town. and presently to feel better about myself and the environment i would just take my car to jiffy lube and let them change the oil instead of dumping it at some public park.(hopefully not on baby seals). did in know in china they had to ban/limit lead acid batteries because those nuts with their ebikes would just start dumping battery acid all over the place. this is what fueled our opportunity to ride these blessed things. but i believe i may be derailing my current topic but this is why i love freedom so we can move this to another thread. i seriouslly would like to focus on 75 mm dropouts at the one inch up mark.

Picture of your fork would help,, you know.

Ok,, you got cheap ass steel forks, and are too stubborn to do the smart thing, put the motor on the rear. FWIW,, you can put a sprocket on a rear motor for the gas motor. bolt it to the disc brake mount on the motor.


Go buy a fork like this. If your bike has 1 1/8 steer tube, it should fit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SILVER-SR-SUNTOUR-26-MOUNTAIN-BICYCLE-FORK-BIKE-PARTS-155-/291841761160?hash=item43f31fdf88:g:hDgAAOSwgZ1XqjfG

See how the dropouts are welded on to the inside edge of the fork tube? That's what you need bro. Then any front motor will fit fine.

okay...gassers,rear mounts,changing out forks......all good ideas..however i honestly would like to find a motor that has a width of less than 75 mm. that was the orignal post. this is a front fork. what about that above motor i posted would that work? it looks like my only options would be dd. i don't have disc brakes. any ideas?

Well, such a motor does exist,, it's for folding bikes with 80mm wide forks.

But it wont work with your bike. The axle is also short, and you will never get the nuts on it. NEVER.

Ok, stubborn guy, go buy that motor. No reason not to. THEN, when it don't fit, you can wake up and buy a fork that works with it. Problem solved, easily.

The industry is not going to make a special motor, just to fit your fork, when motors on suspension forks is rarely done in the first place.

So many cheap used comoly bikes well suited to be a ebike. Diamondback, trek ect.

Exactly, garage sales, flea markets, replace that fork easily by buying a non functional bike for less than 20 bucks.

2015 New Style Black 36/48V 1000W Brushless Gearless Hub Motor for Front Wheel

Voltage: 36/48V
Power: 1000W
Motor Type: Brushless Gearless Hub Motor
Motor Color: Matte Black
Motor Net Weight: 6.2kgs
Motor Diameter: 24.3cm
Hall Sensor Quantity: 3pcs
Max. Speed: 480RPM
Max. Torque: 25N.M
Magnet Body Size: 13.65x3x30mm
Axel Diameter: 14mm
Hub dropout width: 100mm front or 135mm rear hub motor(Support Single, 6 or 7-Speed Gear ONLY)
Brake: support 6-hole type disc brake
Corresponding Controller: 1000W Controller
Available Wheel Size: 16"，18", 20", 24", 26", 700C, 28", 29"

so these motor specs are not correct then? from the above link. wouldn't a motor diameter of 24.3cm work withing those 75mm forks? or is this just a misprint from the website? this is for a direct drive. what are the actual width or educated guese width of this motor including its shell etc.? as always appreciate all input. thank you.

mountain biker said:

wouldn't a motor diameter of 24.3cm work withing those 75mm forks?

Click to expand...

24.3cm is 243mm, so even if that was the thickness (width) and not the diameter, it would not fit 75mm space.

Diameter is the distance from one edge of a circle to the other, not the thickness of a cylinder of that diameter (which is the dimension you are looking for).

If you have apicture of it edge-on, you yourself can guesstimate by mesuring the picture's apparent width at axle shoulders and using that vs the actual shoulder width to make a ratio, then using that ratio to determine the approximate width of the hub shell.