130mm Rear Hub Motor

Does any company you have ever seen offer such an option with standard road bike rear spacing?

I do not care if gear or direct drive.

This is just a simple question. Yes or No. Have you seen one and if so can you provide a link.

NOTE: I DO NOT WANT TO HEAR ABOUT STRETCHING FRAMES TO FIT. I KNOW 5mm is a short distance... I know frames can be stretched. That's not an issue. I simply want to know if one exists. Thanks.

I've not seen 130mm if it does exist, and if you want to keep 9 gears, you can't knock 5 mm off the motor shaft either. You can of course make a 130mm single gear motor out of 135 mm motors, with 2.5m of dish added after you move the axle shoulder over 5 mm on the gear side.

Most hub motors already have enough lateral offset (dish) to be seriously compromised. Reducing rear spacing makes the problem that much worse. I wouldn't do it.

It's the 130mm frames that are in error, not the hub motors.

Yes it would have to be pretty thin and run a reduced gear freewheel. My preference is 7 speed... the industry keeps pushing for more and more gears although there is already so much over lap... and the chains just get thinner. I guess they have to have the "new" to keep the money flowing. I seldom use more than a couple of gears on the bike once converted. I usually run front motors for several reasons. To balance the weight of the bike with the battery on the rear rack, to avoid dishing and gearing issues, and if the battery dies it's a bit easier to pedal with bicycle wheels.... it's just a bit smoother. But I do have a MAC 500 on an old Trek Diamond frame and it's a nice ride. Not every wheel builder is good at dishing a wheel... and that keeps me from ordering off of ebay any kind of pre-built wheel. I'd rather find a local wheel builder if I don't have confidence in the reseller.

130mm is not an error, it's just a road bike standard. They were never intended for motors. I believe early on Bionx tried this then pulled it.

I appreciate the responses. It's a big World so hard to know what may or may not be out there.

I just realized I should have posted this in e-bike general discussion not E-vehicles... my apologies.

chas58 has used the Q100 in the rear of his single speed with 120mm rear dropouts. Apparently there is a spacer and nut that can be removed/modified. Not sure how many gears you could fit back there with the motor, but I assume 6 or less.

Recumbent Bicycle Source said:

Yes it would have to be pretty thin and run a reduced gear freewheel. My preference is 7 speed... the industry keeps pushing for more and more gears although there is already so much over lap...

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This is one of my constant frustrations with the bicycle industry. For most people, the benefits of a narrower gear cluster far outweigh the benefits of close spaced gearing. But because it's easier to sell "this one goes to eleven" to ignorant people, we keep getting wider cassettes and weaker wheels.

For e-bikes and regular transportation cyclists, a narrow cassette with 6 or 7 sprockets on 11-speed spacing would be far more valuable than an 11 speed cassette. And a freewheel of that description would make freewheel hubs practicable again, as well as creating all kinds of interesting possibilities for hub motors.

Agree that five speeds are plenty (especially since that's what MTB's had when I started riding); added benefit is that one notices a discernible difference when changing gears. Why not just fashion a custom five (or whatever) speed freewheel by disassembling and changing as necessary (currently I'm modifying a seven-speed in that manner)?

I also need a 130mm hub motor. I used a 135mm 1kW motor from QS but the cable always touches the brake rotor. Do you have any suggestions what I could use instead?

DasDouble said:

I also need a 130mm hub motor. I used a 135mm 1kW motor from QS but the cable always touches the brake rotor. Do you have any suggestions what I could use instead?

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A rim brake?

Chalo said:

DasDouble said:

I also need a 130mm hub motor. I used a 135mm 1kW motor from QS but the cable always touches the brake rotor. Do you have any suggestions what I could use instead?

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A rim brake?

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Thats a thing..... Im sure the guy will get mad who owns the bike, but Im gonny ask him. Any further suggestions?? :|

DasDouble said:

Chalo said:

A rim brake?

Click to expand...

Thats a thing..... Im sure the guy will get mad who owns the bike, but Im gonny ask him. Any further suggestions?? :|

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It sure doesn't look like the manufacturer left you much else to do. Maybe a C-washer inside the dropout to give the cable a little bit more room, then zip tie it to the chainstay to hold it away from the rotor.

Chalo said:

DasDouble said:

Chalo said:

A rim brake?

Click to expand...

Thats a thing..... Im sure the guy will get mad who owns the bike, but Im gonny ask him. Any further suggestions?? :|

Click to expand...

It sure doesn't look like the manufacturer left you much else to do. Maybe a C-washer inside the dropout to give the cable a little bit more room, then zip tie it to the chainstay to hold it away from the rotor.

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I told him about the washer idea but he said he can´t bend it which I can really not believe. I mean Im not an engineer or something like that, but its just an alloy frame, right? Its not stonehard - is it? :|

DasDouble said:

Chalo said:

DasDouble said:

Chalo said:

A rim brake?

Click to expand...

Thats a thing..... Im sure the guy will get mad who owns the bike, but Im gonny ask him. Any further suggestions?? :|

Click to expand...

It sure doesn't look like the manufacturer left you much else to do. Maybe a C-washer inside the dropout to give the cable a little bit more room, then zip tie it to the chainstay to hold it away from the rotor.

Click to expand...

I told him about the washer idea but he said he can´t bend it which I can really not believe. I mean Im not an engineer or something like that, but its just an alloy frame, right? Its not stonehard - is it? :|

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The C- washer can be difficult to install, I have the bike upside down with the motor wheel loose in the dropouts, then pry between motor and drop out with a big screwdriver enough to slip C washer in between, then zip tie as suggested above.

This seems too close to work but I haven't had any problems yet, do not try to spin wheel until wire fully tied back.

This is a common issue,

Chalo said:

DasDouble said:

I also need a 130mm hub motor. I used a 135mm 1kW motor from QS but the cable always touches the brake rotor. Do you have any suggestions what I could use instead?

Click to expand...

A rim brake?

Click to expand...

He said his frame has got no mounting to install a rim brake.. Too bad