Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

General Discussion about electric bicycles.
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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clo

Post by felix991 » Feb 18 2018 5:39pm

spektrolyte wrote:
May 28 2017 6:33pm
Could it be that this isn't actually a knock off, but instead a genuine but rebranded Raptor frame coming directly from the factory where they are made in China?

I have a Raptor 140 and the design on this looks identical right down to the clamping rear dropouts and holes for the cables. If it is a copy it's extremely good quality.
I am in agreement with this as I just built a raptor I have yet to post photos of but this is to identical not to be an original. Even the same screws that hold the side panels on. Maybe they either sold them the rights and the jig or they made a mass purchase deal.

I actually just built two bike, one was the 76r raptor with all mid to top grade material with out going spastic and the other one was a clone with all the lowest but still good parts I could find so that I could see the difference. I definitely think the original is the better bike, it just feels better and rides better but the clone is as much fun to ride for half the price once you get used to the differences.

If I remember I will put a link to you once I get my build uploaded and sorted to post because my bike and yours look very similar and if you paid around 3200.00 for yours then I have about the same in mine.

And yes, that brake thing drives me nuts, the first set of hydraulics I ordered were reversed as yours are and I sent them back and got the others. Apparently just like the roads, there are a few countries that run their setup a different way. I have been riding bikes since I was 5, I would have wrecked it too many times leaving the front on the right and the back on the left.

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clo

Post by skyungjae » Feb 18 2018 6:15pm

felix991 wrote:
Feb 18 2018 5:39pm
spektrolyte wrote:
May 28 2017 6:33pm
Could it be that this isn't actually a knock off, but instead a genuine but rebranded Raptor frame coming directly from the factory where they are made in China?

I have a Raptor 140 and the design on this looks identical right down to the clamping rear dropouts and holes for the cables. If it is a copy it's extremely good quality.
I am in agreement with this as I just built a raptor I have yet to post photos of but this is to identical not to be an original. Even the same screws that hold the side panels on. Maybe they either sold them the rights and the jig or they made a mass purchase deal.

I actually just built two bike, one was the 76r raptor with all mid to top grade material with out going spastic and the other one was a clone with all the lowest but still good parts I could find so that I could see the difference. I definitely think the original is the better bike, it just feels better and rides better but the clone is as much fun to ride for half the price once you get used to the differences.

If I remember I will put a link to you once I get my build uploaded and sorted to post because my bike and yours look very similar and if you paid around 3200.00 for yours then I have about the same in mine.

And yes, that brake thing drives me nuts, the first set of hydraulics I ordered were reversed as yours are and I sent them back and got the others. Apparently just like the roads, there are a few countries that run their setup a different way. I have been riding bikes since I was 5, I would have wrecked it too many times leaving the front on the right and the back on the left.
Qulbix chimed in earlier on the thread and stated they did not license or sell their design. The Chinese do what they do. They probably had someone purchase one and reverse engineered it as they do with... pretty much everything.

I thought the brakes would bother me, but they actually don't. I spent a decent amount of time on motorcycles, and my clonebix feels way more like a motorcycle than a bike. I have no issues hopping on my regular bike and this thing. The pads do wear out fast. I need a new set for sure, but I haven't been riding daily due to moving to a work location.

I actually don't get to ride bikes, in general, as much as I used to. I try and get out once a month on the clonebix and do a 20 miler through various trails and streets in the area.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clo

Post by sinkking » Mar 20 2018 5:14pm

Hot off the charger, it'll do 37 on the flats with the current knobby tires. It's got a lot of torque, yet it doesn't like steep hills. Like most direct drives, if you're already moving, at a good the momentum can carry you up most things.
[/quote]

Did you have you sanyo battery or the panasonic?

The panasonic has a continuous current of 70amps and the sanyo has a continuous current of 35amps meaning that the the panasonic would max the watts capability of the controller which is 50amps I believe.

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clo

Post by skyungjae » Mar 20 2018 6:05pm

sinkking wrote:
Mar 20 2018 5:14pm
Did you have you sanyo battery or the panasonic?

The panasonic has a continuous current of 70amps and the sanyo has a continuous current of 35amps meaning that the the panasonic would max the watts capability of the controller which is 50amps I believe.
If I had known that when I bought the bike, I probably would've stuck with Panasonic. I ended up paying more for Sanyos for the higher Ah for range.

I would definitely sacrifice some range for more performance. :lol:
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clo

Post by rumme » Mar 22 2018 4:10am

skyungjae wrote:
Mar 20 2018 6:05pm
sinkking wrote:
Mar 20 2018 5:14pm
Did you have you sanyo battery or the panasonic?

The panasonic has a continuous current of 70amps and the sanyo has a continuous current of 35amps meaning that the the panasonic would max the watts capability of the controller which is 50amps I believe.
If I had known that when I bought the bike, I probably would've stuck with Panasonic. I ended up paying more for Sanyos for the higher Ah for range.

I would definitely sacrifice some range for more performance. :lol:
Even only at 35 amps max with those batteries, you are still able to get around 2400-2800 watts of power out of your $3000 ebike. This is still impressive for the low price you paid AND, its nice to know that you still have the capability of another 15 amps/ 1200 watts of power that can be tapped, by just upgrading your next battery and nothing else.

I have my LYEN controller setup for sensorless and programmed for max around 70 amps . Hot off the charger , the battery can pump out around 5000 watts to my 3000 watt ferro fluid filled hub motor but I usually stick around the 2800 watt levels . That is my favorite cruising speed . Ive also got about $3000 in this ebike build and am very happy with it now. I could reprogram the LYEN controller to go higher then 70 amps but I dont need that type of speed and dont want to have it available because if its there, I may get silly and start using it when its not really needed for my riding style. At 70 amps, my top speed is around 45 mph on flats and my torque is solid, probably around 80-100 NMS, which handles some of the steep roads in my area, very nicely. Last year I weighed 245 lbs but am now down to 213 lbs. The 32 lbs of fat loss really makes the ebike ride efficiently. In fact, Id now tell anyone that wants to get their ebike to give better results, to consider losing 20+ lbs of bodyfat. Its healthy and doesn't cost any money .
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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by rumme » Mar 22 2018 4:20am

If you look at the photo of my ebike, you can see im running a 21" front tire and a 19 inch rear tire. The tires are inexpensive motocross style tires that were supposed to be used with tubes. I taped the rims up, put in some slime and made em tubeless and they work great. I had 1 flat last year, and it took about 30 seconds to fix it on the road. I just pushed a sticky plug in the hole, pumped up the tire with my small portable 18 volt air pump that I carry on my ebike, and was riding again. No more having to take off the whole wheel, then dismount the tire, find the hole in the tube, patch it, put it all back together, and then hope the patch holds. I went from flat tires being a NIGHTMARE, on my 4" wide tubed fat tire ebike, that would take 10-15 minutes of labor, to a flat tire now being a quick 30 second repair that is effortless.

Ive built/owned 5 ebikes in the last 6 years, and this one truly does all the things I need, in a reliable ebike at a fair price.

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by rumme » Mar 30 2018 10:25pm

I re-did my GPS mph testing today . Im getting a top speed of around 44 mph @ 72 volts and 60-70 amps { around 4900 watts } . This is tuned down from my initial setting of over 100 amps @ 72 volts which got me 60 mph . This is with my 210 lb bodyweight on flat road.

I find that 2000- 2400 watts of power is usually the sweet spot that provides a safe speed under 35 mph with good power.

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by ABritInNY » Apr 03 2018 7:56pm

I understand you say you've built 5 Ebikes over the last 6 years, but I'm trying to understand some of the other stuff you wrote that had me a lil confused. Ok so you're running an 18fet lyen @72v, (old sq wave or sine?) have you modded it? like beefing up the solder traces or is it stock? I ask because you claim to have had it set to over 100 amps which you dialed down to the 70a. What software did u use, the one Ed Lyen provides or another like xpd?
I saw your posted gps speed results, but I know on my Ebikes the speed of my hubmotor is governed by it's particular wind and the voltage it's run on, (so if sized correctly and running enough power to counter the wind resistance above 25 mph) it's top speed at 50a is the same as at 75a, the difference is in it's torque, so the speed it accelerates at at 75a is faster for me.
EEB frame set, 1500w Leafmotor 4t winding, Powervelocity 18fet/Lyen 18 fet 4110 ESC, 24s 30ah prismatic cell Lifepo4 batt w/60a-120a BMS, CA V3, Dropper Seat post.
Fusion 48v AGM (4x 12v 15ah) 1000w nom DD rear hub, 50a max ESC, 21sp FS Genesis overkill 650b conversion
Kayman Flash+ 350w Mxus geared hub, dual 36v 5.2ah batts 10.4ah 13a-15a ESC
Freway Vr01, 27sp Pedelec 250w Bafang geared hub, (2x) 36v 5.2ah batt, FVS ESC limited to 10a!! (yup sloow on roads but great on trails ;)

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by rumme » Apr 04 2018 9:18am

I was using a KELLY controller, when I initially had this ebike set to handle over 100 amps . I did not like the Kelly controller because I decided I wanted to run the setup in sensorless mode , so thats when I purchased the Lyen special edition controller. With the Kelly controller and running over 100 amps, this ebike could easily do over 55 mph on flat roads. I decided I dont need that type of speed, so the lyen controller maxes out around 70-80 amps which gets me to around 45 mph top speed on flat roads, verified by gps unit mounted on my ebike. I weigh around 210 lbs right now.

I find my favorite cruising speed comes in around 2200 watts of throttle applied. FWIW, THIS lyen controller runs perfectly in sensorless mode, and I doubt I will ever go back to sensored mode, with hall wires. It just makes things more complex then it needs to be. So far, my current setup { controller/ hub motor/ battery} doesn't get very hot , even when pushing it to the max 70-80 amp draw. Im getting all the performance I need { but still have the ability to dial in more speed/ power, just dont need it} without taxing the components, which is the best setup you can ask for. I was gonna buy some hub , heatsink fins , but since my motor doesn't get very hot, I dont think those heatsinks are needed. I do have some ferro fluid in the motor though. Im also running my phase amps much lower then they could be. This really helps alleviate heat issues when climbing steep hilly roads. My phase amps are set so I can ascend all the hills in my area with adequate power and ease without building up a ton of heat in the hub motor. I could ramp up the phase amps much more, to the point of the bike wanting to pull wheelies from a dead stop, but I have no need for that.

I think this is the best setup to go for. Alot of people want a ebike that can do the most speed the most power to the point of stressing out their components. I like the idea of setting up the ebike to do what you need it to do, and making sure that setup is BELOW the max limits the ebike could do.

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by Pinotman » Apr 27 2018 12:25am

Skyungjae, are you able to confirm the weight of your bike ( FC-1) I was looking to buy the same bike as you, but net weight on some of the Risun Motors advertisements is showing at 51kgs and or 38kgs on others with battery. Which is it? i already own a Chinese 'Stealth B52' Clone bike 3000w that i bought from Aimos a few months ago. Its a heavy steel famed bike that with its 13kg battery takes the weight of that bike to over 55kg. It was advertised to me as being a lot less heavy than that. The extra weight makes the bike very stable at 60-70ks but not good for riding single trails with that much bike. It goes ok for what it is and tops out at about 70ks ph but the range is under 40ks when ridden medium to hard. I had to put Hydraulic disk brakes on it after purchasing it as the disk brakes it came with were tiny and not up to the job. but i don't want to get caught out again with a bike that was too heavy.

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by skyungjae » May 08 2018 11:24am

I don't know if my scale can handle my weight + the bike. That being said, I'm probably not going to get an opportunity to weigh it accurately any time in the near future. :?

On a side note, I don't think these are the best types of bikes for single tracks normally ridden with conventional bikes in the 30-35lbs range (15kg). Most of these Chinese clones are more suited for commuting and the occasional fire road or double track (not technical) riding. Besides being heavy, the components are bottom tier and just perform poorly on anything except smooth ground. :lol:

I've somewhat re-purposed my bike altogether to simply get more use out of it. I ended up registering it and getting insurance.
IMG_0199.JPG
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Since I moved work locations, I had almost completely stopped riding. I'm hoping I can ride to work a few times a week now that I've met legal sufficiency in my locale.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by skyungjae » May 11 2018 8:23am

Morning Ride.jpg
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This morning's ride wasn't too bad. It took me about 10 minutes longer to get to work than it does when I'm in a car and can take the highway.

The max speed on this ride is deceiving because I start at the top of a pretty big hill.

I might need to push my plate out to the rear a bit further though. I gave it a good kick when I was pushing off with my left foot at a traffic light. :lol:


... 10 hours later...
Afternoon Ride.jpg
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The ride home took a little bit longer than the ride in. I decided to take a longer route with less turns. It did feel safer with more traffic. In the morning, people would blow by my going 50mph. In the afternoon, I was somewhat able to hang with the flow of traffic.

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When I was riding to the train station to get to my old work location, it was a pretty short ride, so I had no issues full throttling it. I was curious how the bike would perform traveling 4x the distance hammering the throttle. Performance did drop significantly on the climb back up to my neighborhood and the gauge was sagging to 1/4.

It was pretty cool today, and the hub was slightly warm to the touch. Since it's a turn-key, it's also set up rather conservatively, so that's probably a contributing factor. I'm not sure how it'll handle summer heat, but I'll probably make Mondays and Fridays my ride to work day.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by skyungjae » May 16 2018 2:17pm

When I initially purchased this bike, it had been advertised to have regen braking. The manual it came with was a generic one that did not show any such features. That being said, I've gone this long without the manual specific to my display.

Yesterday, I was looking for more details on the advanced settings, and I actually stumbled upon the manual for my specific display:
RisunMotor_LCD6_Control_Panel_User_Manual.pdf
(1.67 MiB) Downloaded 46 times
Seeing that I could now enable regen, I was quick to do it as I knew it would take a bit of work off my brakes. Though I live at the top of a long hill, I rarely have to stop at any traffic lights on my descent before the terrain flattens out. To my misfortune, the day I enable regen, I had to stop at every light on the way down. :x I was still going full throttle between lights, but I'm concerned about my battery. I'm pretty new to regen, but I understand that the battery pack could be damaged when engaged near full charge. Being a Chinese bike, I doubt there are any regen overcharging protections in place.
descent.JPG
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My descent is about 150 feet over a mile. I'm debating if I should continue using regen or simply turn it off. My hand input when braking is certainly a lot less based on my ride into work, so I'd like to continue using it (I've miss engine braking :) ). However, I'm concerned about the potential overcharging and battery health situation in my riding scenario.

Hopefully someone with regen knowledge can chime in. It's not something that's easy to turn on and off with my display. It takes like 30+ clicks and a few combination hold presses just to get to the regen settings. The regen is initiated off the brake sensor. When my display's brake indicator turns on, I feel the regen kick in and the battery gauge animates in reverse from empty to full repeatedly until I come to a full stop.

EDIT:

On my return trip, I did notice I had a bit more juice going up that final ascent back to my home. I was able to hold my speed at closer 30mph rather than the bike bogging down to 20ish. :wink:

On my drive in to work this morning (street sweeping, so I'm forced to drive), I was not stopped by any traffic light on the way down the hill. :? Moving forward I'll keep my bike powered down until I get to the bottom of the hill.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by rumme » May 17 2018 2:02pm

Skyungjae - since you live atop a big hill, then you can charge your 72 volt battery to around 80-82 volts and shut it off there { instead of letting it go to the full 84 volt cutoff} ..then when you start you ride you will have some headroom for the regen to fully charge your battery going down the hill, without the battery being over charged more then 84 volts.

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by skyungjae » May 17 2018 2:55pm

rumme wrote:
May 17 2018 2:02pm
Skyungjae - since you live atop a big hill, then you can charge your 72 volt battery to around 80-82 volts and shut it off there { instead of letting it go to the full 84 volt cutoff} ..then when you start you ride you will have some headroom for the regen to fully charge your battery going down the hill, without the battery being over charged more then 84 volts.
Now you've got me looking at smart chargers. :lol:

This thing looks promising:
https://www.amazon.com/Satiator-Program ... B01LWT3UH0

I just don't know if I want to drop $300 USD on it until I've researched some other options.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by rumme » May 18 2018 4:04am

skyungjae wrote:
May 17 2018 2:55pm
rumme wrote:
May 17 2018 2:02pm
Skyungjae - since you live atop a big hill, then you can charge your 72 volt battery to around 80-82 volts and shut it off there { instead of letting it go to the full 84 volt cutoff} ..then when you start you ride you will have some headroom for the regen to fully charge your battery going down the hill, without the battery being over charged more then 84 volts.
Now you've got me looking at smart chargers. :lol:

This thing looks promising:
https://www.amazon.com/Satiator-Program ... B01LWT3UH0

I just don't know if I want to drop $300 USD on it until I've researched some other options.
Just monitor your LCD readout that tells you your battery voltage while charging....If it takes a usual 6 hours to get a full 84 volt charge, then check the LCD meter at around 5 hours or 5-1/2 hours to see if its at 80-82 volt charge, then unplug it then.

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by skyungjae » May 18 2018 7:59am

rumme wrote:
May 18 2018 4:04am
Just monitor your LCD readout that tells you your battery voltage while charging....If it takes a usual 6 hours to get a full 84 volt charge, then check the LCD meter at around 5 hours or 5-1/2 hours to see if its at 80-82 volt charge, then unplug it then.
:lol:

I plugged in my charger at around 4pm thinking the same thing. As I was walking down the stairs to check the voltage at 9pm, I heard the fan on the charger turn off. :x Of course the voltage was 84v.

This morning, I just coasted down the hill until my bike started slowing down while powered down before turning on the bike. Funny thing is I wouldn't have been stopped by any traffic light for a good 2 miles.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by stritzky » May 20 2018 9:57pm

Or you could just put a toggle switch in series with the switch in your brake lever, so You can disable the regen when you need to.

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by Keiffith » May 31 2018 7:04pm

So guessing by your opinion of it, purchasing this kit isn't a bad idea if it's for a commuter?

My cities roads and sidewalks are down right horrifying, and we get pretty rough winters. (we got nearly 200in of snow last year). So for me a compact EEB is my best option if I want to keep my spine intact and ride it year round.

Granted I would want to purchase the kit minus battery and charger, as I think that is the weakest point especially based on your complaints.

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by skyungjae » Jun 05 2018 9:16am

Keiffith wrote:
May 31 2018 7:04pm
So guessing by your opinion of it, purchasing this kit isn't a bad idea if it's for a commuter?

My cities roads and sidewalks are down right horrifying, and we get pretty rough winters. (we got nearly 200in of snow last year). So for me a compact EEB is my best option if I want to keep my spine intact and ride it year round.

Granted I would want to purchase the kit minus battery and charger, as I think that is the weakest point especially based on your complaints.
The clonebix was definitely equipped more for commuting in mind with the occasional fire road. If you're going to build something up for commuting, and you have a lot of stop and go traffic, I highly recommend investing heavily in the battery. I've made it a habit to pedal off the start to prevent the LVC from kicking when I've used a lot of the battery. There's a soft start setting for the throttle I plan on tinkering with.

Also, though I have two metal housing chargers, I picked up a smaller plastic shell 2A charger that takes up little space in my backpack just in case.

As for tires, I don't know if my Duro Wildlifes will last 1000 miles. They're definitely not happy riding on pavement. The rear is quickly balding toward the center, and the front has a really weird wear from braking (the knobs look like ramps). At least my cruising speed has increased by 1 mph the smoother the tires get. :lol: I'm looking into Berm Masters as a potential replacement, maybe even Thick bricks.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by Keiffith » Jun 05 2018 7:03pm

I'm considering now buying the genuine 76 frame and just building it up with the cheap Chinese alibaba components since I want to run a 21" mc rear and 24" bicycle front. The kenda 741 (I think) looks to be an ideal dual sport tire for 75/25 pavement/dirt.

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by stritzky » Jun 07 2018 6:57pm

I placed a Order for this bike on Ebay a couple of weeks ago. So I'm really looking forward to seeing what this bike is like compared to my Stealth Bomber.

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by skyungjae » Jun 08 2018 2:54pm

stritzky wrote:
Jun 07 2018 6:57pm
I placed a Order for this bike on Ebay a couple of weeks ago. So I'm really looking forward to seeing what this bike is like compared to my Stealth Bomber.
Why on earth would you buy one of these when you already have a Stealth Bomber? :lol:

I imagine it'll seem very lack luster and low power in comparison.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by skyungjae » Jun 08 2018 2:57pm

Keiffith wrote:
Jun 05 2018 7:03pm
I'm considering now buying the genuine 76 frame and just building it up with the cheap Chinese alibaba components since I want to run a 21" mc rear and 24" bicycle front. The kenda 741 (I think) looks to be an ideal dual sport tire for 75/25 pavement/dirt.
I don't know what your budget is, but I think LightningRod's mid-drive set up is the way I'd go if I were building from scratch. I think I'll always be more partial to mid-drives. :wink:

viewtopic.php?t=89215
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Re: Exclusive Black 72V 3000W FC-1 Stealth Bomber Qulbix Clone

Post by Keiffith » Jun 09 2018 1:44pm

skyungjae wrote:
Jun 08 2018 2:57pm
Keiffith wrote:
Jun 05 2018 7:03pm
I'm considering now buying the genuine 76 frame and just building it up with the cheap Chinese alibaba components since I want to run a 21" mc rear and 24" bicycle front. The kenda 741 (I think) looks to be an ideal dual sport tire for 75/25 pavement/dirt.
I don't know what your budget is, but I think LightningRod's mid-drive set up is the way I'd go if I were building from scratch. I think I'll always be more partial to mid-drives. :wink:

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I'm not a fan. I prefer wide DD hubs. It doesn't get any more simple and I don't mind a more tricky wheel removal.

I'm currently looking at a 3000w hub on Alibaba for $445.

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