Enduro ebike swing arm dropout problem

boscovich

1 mW
Joined
Dec 12, 2015
Messages
10
Hi all,

After having had my enduro frame sitting around for the last six months I've finally had some time to put it together over the last few weeks - only to find out now that the rear drop outs are borked.

The enduro swing arm has torque plates on both dropouts, but on the deraileur side of the swing arm the main part of the arm and the plate are out of alignment - meaning there no way for me to get the wheell into the drop outs at the two pieces are askew. The deraileur mount holes line up though, which is weird

Has anyone had this problem here? any advice? I've emailed enduro but yet to hear back from them. Obviously i could just file one side back until I'm able to slot the wheel in, but that completely defeats the point of the torque plate as it wont be a tight fit on both sides.

This is all rather disappointing :(
 

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How tight are the bolts? Any play when you loosen them? Does it line back up when you tighten them? Have you removed the plate and put it back on? Are the bolts bent at all?

If you use longer bolts and flip the torque plate around does the plate line up?
 
The bolts are tightened up, I've removed the whole plate to see if there was any play in them when loosened but no luck. unfortunately the plate cant be reversed as it's not symmetrical in that direction - the derailleur mount is moved by doing so (you can see in the pics that the derailleur mount goes through both plates and is aligned). none of the bolts are bent, everything else is completely in line apart from the dropout. From what i can tell when it is manufactured the torque plate is attached then the derailleur mount is drilled and threaded, this is shown by the dropouts being misaligned but the derailleur mount being perfectly aligned between the torque plate and the swing arm itself.
 
boscovich said:
the derailleur mount is moved by doing so

If it was necessary maybe you could use the derrailuer threads already on the frame, just by hacking off a small amount of the other leg where it interferes?

Personally, the worst case scenario to myself might be to remove the 2 bolts, place the torque arm over the hub motor axle and tighten the axle bolt so the plate is in place and then weld the plate to the frame.

You've got lots of options here, that is for sure. Nice large open face to muck around with. Perhaps whoever you bought the frame from has another torque plate for you that lines up correctly.
 
unfortunely i cant just drill out a bit of the part where the derailleur threads line up as the two screws that hold the plate on would need redrilling like 2mm to the left - meaning it would completely bork the two holes where the screws mount the plates together

the second option of forgoing the screws, drilling out the derailleur mount, and welding it is definitely a worst case scenario as i don't have any welding gear, but as you say would fix the problem.

i bought it from a guy here on ES, i'll message him but he had just bought a dozen or so frames and sold them so doubt he has spare torque plates laying around.

i guess i just hope i hear back from the guys at enduro. there's a fair few cut corners on the frame so i don't imagine this is the first case of this happening. hopefully they can send me a new plate without having to replace the whole swing arm which would be a total pain in the arse.

thanks for your advice either way, flux :)
 
boscovich said:
unfortunely i cant just drill out a bit of the part where the derailleur threads line up as the two screws that hold the plate on would need redrilling like 2mm to the left - meaning it would completely bork the two holes where the screws mount the plates together

I am guessing it is close to impossible to accurately describe with words what I am trying to convey, I suspect it'd work but I lack the ability to say it correctly.
 
They were sold to you with the frame right ?

If so, claim a replacement because obviously, it is a machining fault.
Else, or if you want to ride now: place the torque plate on the axle without the screws. Then see if one of the screws can be fitted. If so, just enlarge the other hole and fit the screw with mounting paste or epoxy. If none of the screws can be fitted after the torque plate is on the axle, you will have to drill and tap a new hole, at least for one of the screws.

Alternatively, you could just glue it, or weld it. Yet, if you bought the frame with those torque plates and dropouts included, I suppose you would expect the parts to match together.
 
Yeah they came with the frame, I PMed the guy I bought it off here on ES but he's been inactive for a while so may be difficult. Hopefully the manufacturer gets back to me as yeah, its clearly a machining fault and should've been picked up in QA.

Unfortunately neither of the screw holes line up when the wheel is mounted with the plate so welding would be the only option but I don't have any welding equipment.

Hopefully the guys at enduro do the right thing and sort it out as it's clearly an issue from the factory.

Its a bummer, I was hoping to get it built and ride it soon but I'd rather wait and see if they reply before I go the drastic route of welds or epoxy :?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
Well, epoxy would let you ride in the meantime. We are off season now, small shops are closed and many are on vacation. Glued torque plates are not unusual, and some on ES are riding high power with them. Do a simple search and you will find many, and the epoxy type that works best.
 
Hi all,
1. This frame was not purchased from Evelbike or Jiangsu HG LTD. If you ask smth on our facebook page or thru email - you always get reply.
Maybe you bought it from Leili? We can not find your name or email in our database.
2. This is not a problem. You only need to unscrew these two bolts before wheel installtion.
Install the wheel and then screw and tighten these bolts. The head of the bolts is conical and the hole is 1mm bigger diameter than bolt.
So it will find its position easy.

hope you can understand it and erase your comments from evelbike page on facebook
 
The bolts do not line up - trying to screw them in with the wheel installed will cause dethreading of the bolt holes and render the frame useless. look at the photos - they speak for themself.
 
no I didn't have this problem you should ask for new ones ( did have other problems ) like the drop out is not centred but it is made for a 48v motor 7 speed cassette/free wheel

if you find a company with a keyway machine they can sort that out I did this with my frame as I have a motor with 12mm axle not the recommended 10mm axle
 
I have a Enduro frame and had no such problem. I have a nice prefect tight fit. DO NOT file the dropouts.

You will need new dropouts. The Video eVelbike posted is no good to him in his situation as his dropouts let alone don’t
line up as in the eVelbike video dos.

Don’t mess with it get yourself a new set of dropouts. You might have to pay for a set as you did not buy from a endure frame dealer website.
See if eVelbike will sell you a set and at minimum if they kindly could send you a set and you just pay postage costs.
 
I have the same frame and by loosening the two countersunk screws, the torque plates should be able to align. Mine looked the same way until I loosened them a bit (don't take them all the way off). You can put a caliper bolt in place to make sure the mount stays aligned too.
Hope it all works out. If not, be sure to have the vedor supply new parts or even the swingarm.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
 
the12be said:
no I didn't have this problem you should ask for new ones ( did have other problems ) like the drop out is not centred but it is made for a 48v motor 7 speed cassette/free wheel

if you find a company with a keyway machine they can sort that out I did this with my frame as I have a motor with 12mm axle not the recommended 10mm axle

the drop out is not centered? :shock:
 
Yes but I remade it all myself and now it is and the dropout is the full 180mm and set for 26 inch wheels
 
what was wrong and where did you source the frame?
here in china it's a rule that the front and rear wheel of everything cheap with two wheels must be comically misaligned.. :lol:
 
lol I think it half my fault as I didn't look at the full specs of the frame but always intended to use 26 inch wheels and see if I could fit my battery in .

But the rear dropout was about 6mm off centre and my battery did not fit so I cut it up and remade the swing arm and added 10 cm (100mm) to the top tube Enlarging the total volume of the triangle and repainted it all.
Still making new sides for the frame as the size have all changed

got the frame from aliexpress
 
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