Black Paint, & Heat Spunge..

Hi all, i am looking for sum good heat absorbing paint, as the inside of my hub motors side plates are unpainted, what would you use... and where from in the UK/EU?

And has any one added sum more mass to the inside of there DD motors? as i'm playing with the idea of adding a 1" thick aluminium plate to each side of the stater of my MXUS v3 motor (cut to fit) as an heat sponge, set in thermally conductive epoxy?.. as inadvertently Doctorbass did by water cooling his motor, with out connecting his water cooling up, he made it allot more heat stable under power! ?
I really need to finish reading "Definitive Tests on the Heating and Cooling of Hub Motor" this is only part of my cooling plans, as i'm adding external heat sinks and FF also..

I know of a few ham radio operators have used black shoe polish inside high powered amplifiers with radiation cooled tubes (3-500Z s). The liquid kind with the sponge applicator built into the bottle. I think this is mainly because it is fairly easy to apply without masking or disassembling the amplifier, but it is very black, dries quickly and gives a much thinner coat that most paint, so adds very little insulation. Black magic marker is another standby for touching up black anodize.

Neither of these will stand up to even minimal wear, but inside a motor should be well protected.

See this thread for a LOT of dicussion about getting heat out of motors including the paint and mass thing:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48753&hilit=definitive

I would personally use the thinnest coat of the mattest, blackest, enamel based paint I could, then either use statorade, or ATF as the conductor.

Unless your excess power is very bursty (hills), I'm not sure the extra thermal mass would be worth the extra unsprung mass, and if your conductive epoxy is too thick or has air bubbles in it, you could be insulating instead of just adding thermal mass.

Thank you all,

amberwolf: i am reading that thread, and i still have 30+ pages to go

Sunder: enamel based paint, i will start looking for sum, yes unsprung mass is a pain, but i live on a big very steep hill, and its all hill's here STEEP!! why i'm thinking of adding about 1-1.5kgs.
So i am thinking of cutting out aluminium plate to fit in between the stater spokes, so there will be 6 triangle shaped plates on each side of the stater, i may use cpu thermal silicone to transfer heat from the stater, and bolt them in place, or i may tig weld them in... the plates will have fins cut into them, as well as the side covers too, i will be using statorade, and the outer heat sink/fins like "hubsink" but i have made my own, like i said doctbass added mass and it really worked for him, and if i cant get this to work i will most likely water cool the motor..

PS i live in the UK so it rains every other day, and i be riding it loads in wet sticky mud! so no way of venting, time to go back to reading "Definitive Tests on the Heating and Cooling of Hub Motor"

If any one else has has a thought on this please do.