Video building Qulbix 76r Updated: 15April

S

Sweden_Rob

100 mW
Joined
Mar 20, 2017
Messages
46
UPDATED 10 APRIL

Hey guys!

We are a couple guys and girls from Sweden who building e-bikes.
We going to release videos during the building so watch and enjoy!

Setup:
Hubmotor: Mxus 3k turbo
Controller: Adaptto Max-e
Batteries: 22s 9p (Samsung 25r cells)
Front Wheel: 26" dabomb downhill
Back wheel: 24" premonted for hubmotor
Fork: Marzocci 888 dubble crown
Rear suspension: Fox Van Rc
Breaks: Hayes El Camino


Video Nr1: Introduction (overview) of the frame and modification we made.
[youtube]p9a1CzN2VhU[/youtube]

Video nr2: A look at the hub motor mxus v3
[youtube]NOBjc7mzsD8[/youtube]

Video nr3: Bulding battery pack
[youtube]6Bpprl6_UME[/youtube]

The battery is build with samsung 25R cells. We used 198 cells. 22s9p.
This because mxus v3 motor works better with higher voltage.
We bought the cells från Nkon i nedelands, they have really good prices on 18650 cells.
As you can see in the video we use plastic frames to put the cells in.
The good thing with the plastic frame is that it gives the battery spaces between each cell, which is good for cooling.
And if you need to change a cell in the middle of the package its quite more easy than if it where glued.
But the bad thing is that the package takes up more space and getting wider. I know most people glue there cells.

The package delivers 1845 watt hours. And its good for 80-130 km depending on speed and driving style.
The whole package is connected with a solder machine so you don't need a spot welder to build the package.


Video nr4: Spring Cruise with QULBIX 76
[youtube]Wxg7Sq76m0s[/youtube]

Video nr4: A SHORT FILM
[youtube]Q5T_yDRUwQ0[/youtube]
 
I like your Q76 frame choice. In my opinion this is really one of the best frames you can buy if you want a large battery and a tiny frame.

Without a doubt the thinner the frame the better, the bike is much more agile and the weight distribution feels much more centered, and the frame becomes more passable as a bike. The thinner frame also makes it easier to keep an 18650 pack more stable.

Smart idea to enlarge the frame hole for the controller wires. While I can get all my wires through the original hole it is really time-consuming to get all those adaptto max-e wires through. I was actually thinking about how I can make it easier to connect all the controller wires. I was thinking more to make the wires longer so that I can connect them easier but a bigger whole would make it a lot easier.
 
Offroader said:
I like your Q76 frame choice. In my opinion this is really one of the best frames you can buy if you want a large battery and a tiny frame.

Without a doubt the thinner the frame the better, the bike is much more agile and the weight distribution feels much more centered, and the frame becomes more passable as a bike. The thinner frame also makes it easier to keep an 18650 pack more stable.

Smart idea to enlarge the frame hole for the controller wires. While I can get all my wires through the original hole it is really time-consuming to get all those adaptto max-e wires through. I was actually thinking about how I can make it easier to connect all the controller wires. I was thinking more to make the wires longer so that I can connect them easier but a bigger whole would make it a lot easier.
Click to expand...


Yes its no problem with the wires. The only thing is that its a bit short from the controller so i connect some of them outside and then push it through the hole.
I can release a movie so you can se how its looks from inside and outside now when the controller is in place if you want to?
 
Rob, I can't believe you soldered the whole pack instead of buying a spot welder. You can pick those spot welders up cheap now, many people are selling them now.

The time it takes to solder a pack is just rediculous. I soldered only 6 cells for a heated clothing battery pack and it took forever to do. Took like 20-30 minutes what would have taken me just 3 minutes with a spot welder.

The other issue is, which is debatable, is that some say you do lots of damage to the cells, even if you only apply heat for a couple of seconds.\

You also breathe in a ton of chemicals from the solder.

We will have to see how well your pack stays in balance and if you caused damage that requires you to balance the pack often. I never put my cells in parallel or even hooked up my BMS yet and my cells are in perfect balance after a year. If you find yourself needing to balance the pack then it could be because of the solder damage to some of the cells causing it to go out of whack.

I would recommend to anyone building a pack to just go out and purchase a $100-$150 spot welder, many people are selling versions of this now on the internet.

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Arduino-Battery-Spot-Welder/
 
True! Yes Im going to do next package with a spot welder. You know the cells doesn't get that heated if you solder it correctly, the negative with soldering is the time as you mentioned.
The cells works fine, no problem so far. It balanced first time i connected the bms and it has not balanced since. But we going to see how it works after I have used it for a while.
Yes the gas from soldering is not healthy, so I recommend to solder without lead, its more expensive but its worth it.
 
Hi Rob,

Great build :)

Can you post a picture of your cellholderlayout?
Is this the new 2017 76R frame ?
Qulbix put's on the website that the new 2017 frame has extra space ?
Do you have a picture of the exact dimensions of the opening for the battery

Thanks

Steven
 
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