New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

General Discussion about electric bicycles.
Philaphlous   100 W

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New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by Philaphlous » Mar 31 2017 8:02am

I'd like to introduce myself to the forum. I'm new to the ebike world completely! What got me interested is my commute sucks! I go 4.9mi to work 1 way, spend more in parking per month than I put away for retirement...and love the 30-45minute gridlock that I have to go through to go 4.9mi... So my idea is to bike to and from work! I've got about 3/4 of my route on a bike path and all the rest has plenty of sidewalks and the occasional road if I need to...

So heer's my idea! I've got kind of a "starter" mountain bike that my parents got me ages ago...literally... its probably 15 years old right now sitting in my parents attic. I hope to get that to my place in the next month or so...transportation is kinda an issue getting it here from where they are. So, once I have that it's going to need some major TLC...I know. New brakes, tires likely, handlebar grips, I also want to go ahead and replace the handlebar. maybe a new chain and alot of cleaning. Bike hasn't been ridden in probably 10 years...

Now to my plan. I'm looking at some 1000w hub motor kits on ebay, primarily to get away from the geared hub motor design and to a more gearless drive for various reasons. I'm pretty knowledgeable with batteries and so I'm looking at building my own 10Ah 48V 18650 battery using the Samsung ICR18650-26F batteries.

Since this is my first time hear... I'd love to get some advice! I've been reading up the forums for the past few days and wow, what a treasure chest of knowledge. I'm just working on the basics right now to start off. I've also read the state law and its 500w/20mph limit supposedly....yea :oops:

So first thing is first I need to get the bike to see what kind of condition it's in. I believe its a 20-26" tire size but I'll have to check once I get it. The front fork doesn't have any shocks...so that going to be an issue with an ebike? Is that like a must have item? Heck I can't even remember the model of my bike but it's a Giant bike that's a blue frame, that's about all I remember...

I've been working out a budget to for this build and I don't want to go over the top since I want to replace some of my "lost" income from parking back into my pocketbook (nobody uses that word anymore...).

So yea! I welcome the critique and help in this endeavor. I'm hoping to build something moderately fun with a "boost" mode that'll hopefully include a little bit of speed, maybe 30-35mph in short stretches...


1. 18650 Batteries - https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/100 ... 7v-2600mah
2. Ebike hub motor 1000w - http://www.ebay.com/itm/26-Electric-Bic ... SwRQlXck61
3. Battery pack BMS 13S - http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-BMS-13S-Li- ... SwWxNYwgqo
4. ...
Last edited by Philaphlous on Mar 31 2017 9:52am, edited 1 time in total.

docw009   10 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by docw009 » Mar 31 2017 9:05am

I've never owned a front hub motor, so what do I know, but why front hub? It's usually not much more to buy the rear hub, and you eliminate completely the possibility of a sloppy install letting the hub spin, which ruins the wires, breaks the drop out, and maybe gets you hurt. If tuning up a rear derailleur is the worry, it will probably need it after 15 years, and you need to know how to do this on a commuter bike.

Also, less traction issues on sand. Also, if you toss on saddle bags, a big rear wheel may be less visible to bored cops that will bust you for riding on the sidewalk.

After a couple of builds, I find I prefer the controllers that use LCD-3 displays. I think those kits are around $200. They offer some programmabilty and a better pedal assist capability. I've no experience again, but read that some of the cheaper ebay kits have binary pedal assist. It's either full speed or off. Of course, if you use throttle only, it don't matter.

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pwd   100 W

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by pwd » Mar 31 2017 9:30am

Welcome,

I do recommend suspension on an e-bike; because of the extra weight and potential extra speed; you will get rattled pretty hard. You might be able to help that with fatter tires if you don't have suspension on the bike. Make sure the bike has good steel dropouts on the end you will be using the motor (front, rear, or both). Look into some torque arms.

batteries: while I understand you are on a budget; I would look for cells with a slightly higher discharge rating. I am guessing you are building a 13S4P pack. With those cells; your max discharge is 20 amps. That doesn't sound like enough for a 1000w motor @ 48v. You may end up working those cells too hard. There are much better cells out there with a higher discharge rating and more capacity.

motor/controller: that looks like a run of the mill Chinese hub motor kit and it should work fine. You get what you pay for. Check the spoke tension etc... before you fit it on your bike.

BMS: I don't have any pack building experience so I can't comment on the BMS other than it looks like it has the correct specs.
Last edited by pwd on Mar 31 2017 9:37am, edited 2 times in total.
Current Build:
Rocky Mountain Element
Magic Pie 4 front + Leafmotor 1500 rear w/ WCEC 18fet
em3ev 14S5P 30Q + 14S6P 25R pack

Old Build:
GIANT ATX 980 w/ Cycle Analyst v2.25
Golden Motor Magic Pie (internal controller) X2
14S3P 15aH: 6X 6S 5000mAh + 3X 2S 5000mAh LiPo packs
My thread: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 5&p=693208

rumme   100 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by rumme » Mar 31 2017 9:36am

How much do you weigh....is your commute very hilly.....will this ebike be only for travelling roads..or do you want to go off road, etc ?

I put a front wheel hub motor on my wifes fat bike, and it works fine . There are added benefits to this, that most people ignore...Like being able to have 2 wheel drive if needed, applying throttle to the front motor and pedaling . Fixing flats can be a bit easier with a front wheel drive because you don't have to worry about the chain , gear mechanisms being involved.

I still think the best value for a complete hub motor kit is the generic 1000 watt systems sold on ebay for around $190 shipped . This works fine is you are happy with a top speed less then 30 mph, and you don't need a ton of torque to go up huge steep roads or go off road on dirt trails. You may also want to consider flat free tires from somewhere like amerityre . I make this advice because if you are commutting to work everyday on a ebike, you don't need the hassle of a flat tire making you late for work.

One last piece of advice....many people like to claim that " you will get what you pay for"

Do not believe this . The generic yescomusa 1000 watt hub motors on ebay are very inexpensive, and perform very well most of the time for the average ebiker that doesn't need to do more then 35 mph or need 500 NMS of torque. Theres no need to pay $400 for a name brand hub motor , when you can buy 1 for $180 shipped, with a controller that will accomplish the things you need.

If you are riding on mostly flat roads, you wont need suspension.

Philaphlous   100 W

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by Philaphlous » Mar 31 2017 9:52am

Ah sorry guys! I'll update the OP, I'm looking at a rear hub motor...silly me didn't look close enough...whops :roll:

rumme   100 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by rumme » Mar 31 2017 10:08am

Philaphlous wrote:Ah sorry guys! I'll update the OP, I'm looking at a rear hub motor...silly me didn't look close enough...whops :roll:
Once again, if you wont be doing hardcore riding, there is nothing wrong with a simple front hub direct drive motor . It also means you wont have to mess around with your rear gearing/ cassette.

Philaphlous   100 W

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by Philaphlous » Mar 31 2017 10:08am

rumme wrote:How much do you weigh....is your commute very hilly.....will this ebike be only for travelling roads..or do you want to go off road, etc ?

I put a front wheel hub motor on my wifes fat bike, and it works fine . There are added benefits to this, that most people ignore...Like being able to have 2 wheel drive if needed, applying throttle to the front motor and pedaling . Fixing flats can be a bit easier with a front wheel drive because you don't have to worry about the chain , gear mechanisms being involved.

I still think the best value for a complete hub motor kit is the generic 1000 watt systems sold on ebay for around $190 shipped . This works fine is you are happy with a top speed less then 30 mph, and you don't need a ton of torque to go up huge steep roads or go off road on dirt trails. You may also want to consider flat free tires from somewhere like amerityre . I make this advice because if you are commutting to work everyday on a ebike, you don't need the hassle of a flat tire making you late for work.

One last piece of advice....many people like to claim that " you will get what you pay for"

Do not believe this . The generic yescomusa 1000 watt hub motors on ebay are very inexpensive, and perform very well most of the time for the average ebiker that doesn't need to do more then 35 mph or need 500 NMS of torque. Theres no need to pay $400 for a name brand hub motor , when you can buy 1 for $180 shipped, with a controller that will accomplish the things you need.

If you are riding on mostly flat roads, you wont need suspension.
Flat roads, sidewalks/road/bike path entire way. Don't plan on off-roading, actually looking to get "street" tires on the bike as I'm sure 15yr old rubber is going to crumble when I get the bike. I made a mistake and its the rear hub motor...my goof. The bike is pretty old so I'd imagine its made with steel dropouts but I'll take a look. I've read somewhere that enclosed dropouts is pretty much a must for the rear tire? Gonna need to find those...

As far as the battery amperage draw goes. Yes, I will be limited to 20A total draw, at ~50v or 48v nominal, I should be just fine. That's 5A per cell, and in reality, I'll likely be just cruising so my draw is going to be much less since I'm not going to be full speed my entire commute, for legal reasons of course... I'd say I'm looking around a 3-4A draw per cell which is ~16A or ~800w depending on speed. But my calculations could be off...

I also want my build to be as low profile/stealth as possible. So rear is definitely going to be the better route...

rumme   100 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by rumme » Mar 31 2017 11:31am

If I was in your situation, heres what I would do.

Purchase a generic YESCOMUSA 1000 watt -48 volt hub motor with controller off ebay ..around $180 shipped .

Since you will be travelling around 10 miles for your job , on flat roads , you only need a 48 volt - 10 AH battery..I would go with lifepo4 off ebay..for around $350 shipped.

Finally, since this ebike will be your commute to work on a daily basis, I would definitely go with solid air free / flat free tires. You will never have to worry about a flat tire making you late for work . I have used these tires before, and it is great peace of mind to take flat tires out of the equation. Since you will be travelling on flat finished roads and sidewalks, solid tires will work fine for that application. I know this because I used them for 3 years on my Giant hybrid ebike I built.

Philaphlous   100 W

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by Philaphlous » Mar 31 2017 3:34pm

rumme wrote:If I was in your situation, heres what I would do.

Purchase a generic YESCOMUSA 1000 watt -48 volt hub motor with controller off ebay ..around $180 shipped .

Since you will be travelling around 10 miles for your job , on flat roads , you only need a 48 volt - 10 AH battery..I would go with lifepo4 off ebay..for around $350 shipped.

Finally, since this ebike will be your commute to work on a daily basis, I would definitely go with solid air free / flat free tires. You will never have to worry about a flat tire making you late for work . I have used these tires before, and it is great peace of mind to take flat tires out of the equation. Since you will be travelling on flat finished roads and sidewalks, solid tires will work fine for that application. I know this because I used them for 3 years on my Giant hybrid ebike I built.

How well do solid tires ride? Looks like there's some solid intertubes on ebay and I'm also not sure about the weight... I'm hoping for some pretty good low rolling resistance so I can have a pretty efficient ride into work...

rumme   100 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by rumme » Mar 31 2017 4:24pm

Philaphlous wrote:
rumme wrote:If I was in your situation, heres what I would do.

Purchase a generic YESCOMUSA 1000 watt -48 volt hub motor with controller off ebay ..around $180 shipped .

Since you will be travelling around 10 miles for your job , on flat roads , you only need a 48 volt - 10 AH battery..I would go with lifepo4 off ebay..for around $350 shipped.

Finally, since this ebike will be your commute to work on a daily basis, I would definitely go with solid air free / flat free tires. You will never have to worry about a flat tire making you late for work . I have used these tires before, and it is great peace of mind to take flat tires out of the equation. Since you will be travelling on flat finished roads and sidewalks, solid tires will work fine for that application. I know this because I used them for 3 years on my Giant hybrid ebike I built.

How well do solid tires ride? Looks like there's some solid intertubes on ebay and I'm also not sure about the weight... I'm hoping for some pretty good low rolling resistance so I can have a pretty efficient ride into work...
Forget the solid inner tubes. I tried them and wasn't impressed.

As far as your rolling resistance...you said your total commute is less then 10 miles on flat roads/ sidewalks.

IMHO..you have no need to worry about things like rolling resistance for your needs....FLAT TIRES should be a bigger concern since they are always gonna happen with normal tires/ tubes and even tube protectors . I would think flat tires would be your major headache with your ebike situation because it is no fun to try to be at work on time and get a flat, especially in inclimate weather . Also consider this, the solid air free tires will not only alleviate ANY flat tire problems, but it will mean you will have to carry less tools to deal with flat tires...pumps, axle wrench, patches, glue , extra tube..etc.

Now that I am riding a electric fatbike , my biggest pain in the ass issue is flat tires...I never had the concern with my Giant 700 c electric bike . It had 2 amerityres 700c solid tires on it.

Take some of my advice on the motor/ battery combo and the solid tires, and I think you will have a bullet proof and reliable ebike, that doesn't cost much and gives you a big smile everytime you commute to work and back.

Ignore the naysayers who will tell you that going with solid tires isn't worth it. For your needs, I think it is the perfect setup.

If you try them, and think the ride is a bit to bumpy, then you can always purchase a $40 seat with springs . You will be riding on roads and sidewalks, so I doubt the ride will be to harsh.

How much do you weigh ?

You have a 10 mile commute, on flat roads....if I were you, I wouldn't even mess around trying to make a battery pack. Buy one premade - with a BMS built in..48 volt - 10 AH - with a 20-30 amp continuous output rating , will be perfect for your needs. On ebay, you may be able to find this for $350 or less, shipped to your door.

I would also consider a front wheel hub motor for your needs . My wifes bike has one, and it is a nice ride . Now, if you needed to do 40 mph with high torque , then I wouldn't suggest it. For your needs, a front mounted motor should work great, and be less hassle then a rear mounted system.

ScooterMan101   1 MW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by ScooterMan101 » Mar 31 2017 4:42pm

I ride bike paths, streets , and the sidewalk on an expressway road where the auto/truck commuters are distracted, so

Reality Check

1 ) 3/4 of your commute on a bike path ... Bike Paths are 15 mph, Max ! speed, even at around 12 Mph or so you will piss the other path users off, it would not take long before you, and , all other e-bike users would be banned from such a path. Add to that the cost of a ticket , a few hundred dollars or more. remember you do not know who you are passing too close to/ too fast, could be someone who's husband is a Cop, or is friends with the Regional Park Ranger who will be waiting for you someday , with his ticket book in hand.

What I do when riding on a bike path is whenever I am within 50-75 feet from anyone I let off the throttle completely . then when they are more than 25 feet away I apply the throttle , slowly to get back up to speed, around 14/15 mph.

2 ) On a sidewalk speed around 6 mph - 8 mph, if the sidewalk is between the street and houses then more like 5-6 mph , Max . otherwise you will piss off someone's Mom or Dad who will be calling the Police on you . How much is a ticket for riding on the sidewalk where you live ?

3 ) For commuting , if you want to get to work fast then ride On the Street, as close to the cars/trucks as possible in regards to speed . that is where a 1,000 watt motor will come in handy, If you also get a battery that is rated for 3-4c or more ( 30 amps- 40 amps )
When you find out that you will be riding under 18 mph most of the time , you will find that a lighter weight 250-350 watt motor rated that at 36 volts, that you use 48 volt battery with , will be a plenty powerful enough of a Hub Motor, for flat areas .

Research threads from / where members . Chas58 , Motomech , D8veh,

and for the best small light weight systems ... the leader in innovation right now , read Kepler , posts in the Non Hub Motor Section . to see light weight , inexpensive systems that work well.

If Lane Splitting is Legal in your state, then you have an advantage on the street, with the slow / gridlock traffic you describe.

If Lane Splitting is not Legal in your state, then get together with your local Motorcyclists, to get an advocate/Lobbyist to get Lane Splitting Legal .





Philaphlous wrote: I'd like to introduce myself to the forum. I'm new to the ebike world completely! What got me interested is my commute sucks! I go 4.9mi to work 1 way, spend more in parking per month than I put away for retirement...and love the 30-45minute gridlock that I have to go through to go 4.9mi... So my idea is to bike to and from work! I've got about 3/4 of my route on a bike path and all the rest has plenty of sidewalks and the occasional road if I need to...

Now to my plan. I'm looking at some 1000w hub motor kits on ebay, primarily to get away from the geared hub motor design and to a more gearless drive for various reasons. I'm pretty knowledgeable with batteries and so I'm looking at building my own 10Ah 48V 18650 battery using the Samsung ICR18650-26F batteries.

Since this is my first time hear... I'd love to get some advice! I've been reading up the forums for the past few days and wow, what a treasure chest of knowledge. I'm just working on the basics right now to start off. I've also read the state law and its 500w/20mph limit supposedly....yea :oops:
Last edited by ScooterMan101 on Mar 31 2017 5:44pm, edited 6 times in total.
My first conversion ...

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 1#p1077497

It's 2018 already, lets get some real , improved e-bike / e-velomobile / e-motorcycle designs .

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footloose   10 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by footloose » Mar 31 2017 4:50pm

For your commute, with budget and stealth both considerations...
think you are on the right track with a basic steel frame no suspension bike with eBay direct drive rear motor...
but I'd rethink the battery just a bit, especially if you can charge at work.

One of my favorite batteries is a really small 18650 pack... 14S3P Samsung 20R cells.
Couple years old and going strong.
Only 6 Ah, ~300 Wh, but very capable of supporting high amp draw for acceleration.
It's small and light enough that I just stash it in a tool bag hanging off back of seat.
With me doing moderate pedaling, going easy on the throttle, no headwinds and flattish roads I've used it on rides of >20 miles.

If I were doing it today, I'd get a similar config but probably built with Samsung 25r or 30q cells.
You could build one yourself if you like, but you could buy something similar without breaking the bank.

Without endorsing any particular vendor...
Mine was a custom order from EM3ev, cost $300 plus shipping and I've been very happy with it.
Luna has a similar but even smaller battery available... 14S2P of 30q cells... for ~$300 plus shipping.
14s2P of 30q might be enough.

flat tire   10 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by flat tire » Mar 31 2017 6:27pm

Here are the basics:

0) Get a rear hub motor, not front. The bike will handle a lot better and you will have much lighter steering.

1) Don't worry about the law! If you belong on an ebike you'll have enough awareness and presence of mind to slow down to 20 and start pedaling when you see a cop. Cyclists are INVISIBLE to cops (and everyone else except other cyclists) unless you're causing a problem! Don't piss people off and cops won't be looking for you. No problem.

2) Full suspension isn't necessary, but very helpful if you want to cruise fast or go off road. Craigslist is your friend...you can get a several year old name brand full susp MTB for a couple hundred on up.

3) A 48v 1000W motor will see you all the way to about 35 MPH at stock voltage. That's enough to ride in traffic, which is what I recommend. It's approximately 10,000 times safer to have your bike IN traffic than to be on the side of the road while drivers who may or may not see you or care whiz by.

4) Don't use that cell you're talking about, get a good high discharge cell like the 25R, 30Q, HG2, VTC4. They will last longer, especially for a small pack. I would go for 500 watt-hours minimum, which will handle both ways of your commute beautifully on one charge and give an OK range for shorter non-commute trips.

rumme   100 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by rumme » Mar 31 2017 6:45pm

flat tire wrote:Here are the basics:

0) Get a rear hub motor, not front. The bike will handle a lot better and you will have much lighter steering.

.

For his situation, I doubt "handling the ebike" will be a issue and a front hub motor should work fine.

less then 10 mile commute, on flat paved roads/ sidewalks. Hes not gonna be driving dirt trails, steep hills, gravel roads, etc.

I have found that many people who claim front wheel drive on a ebike, is no good, have never owned one. I have a yescomusa 1000 watt - 48 volt motor mounted on the front of my wifes ebike, and I actually like the way it performs and I also like that you can easily have all wheel drive, if needed, by applying throttle to the front hub motor and pedaling the rear wheel. Changing flats on her front hubmotor is also easier and cleaner since there is no chain or cassette to deal with , which also means no oil/chain grease .

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by flat tire » Mar 31 2017 7:28pm

Thinking about it a little more, I guess I will retract that point in OP's case because...

Front wheel drive has a handling ADVANTAGE at lower power levels because it already comes with good weight over your front wheel and is very easy to balance out with easy bolt ons like a rear rack battery.

So, RWD is preferable when you have more power, an easy way to add weight to the front or a mid drive. Otherwise, for low power, I guess FWD is fine.

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by rumme » Mar 31 2017 7:39pm

flat tire wrote:Thinking about it a little more, I guess I will retract that point in OP's case because...

Front wheel drive has a handling ADVANTAGE at lower power levels because it already comes with good weight over your front wheel and is very easy to balance out with easy bolt ons like a rear rack battery.

So, RWD is preferable when you have more power, an easy way to add weight to the front or a mid drive. Otherwise, for low power, I guess FWD is fine.
Agreed,

For low price ,, low maintenance , and to meet his performance needs , I think his best setup is :

front wheel direct drive 1000 watt hub motor with controller off ebay for about $180 shipped

48 volt 10 AH lifepo4 battery with BMS installed for around $350 shipped { lifepo4 is safer also }

2 flat free solid tires so he never has to worry about a flat going to work...around $ 40

This setup should be damn near bullet proof, as long as he makes sure his controller doesn't get wet in the rain.

He will get 30 -35 mph top speed, around 25 NMS of torque , which is plenty for flat roads and have a dependable ebike for work commutting....all for $600 !

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motomech   1 GW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by motomech » Mar 31 2017 10:16pm

With everyone throwing out all kinds of ideas here, really didn't want to jump in, as I'm sure the OP is confused enough. But I can't let the above post stand w/out a rebuttal.
Don't put a large Frisbee sized DD motor on the frt. forks. Frt. fork installs that don't adversly effect the handling are lite and small, like a geared mini-motor. Less than 3 Kg.s and a system less than 800 Watts.
A 35 mph(you won't get that w/ 20 Amps)frt. wheel mounted on an older MXB bike would be "death on wheels".
And actually, for what I understand the usage for this ebike is to be, I would think a nicer coasting, lighter, faster acelerating geared motor would be better. More stealthy too.
And for the Run Flat tires this guy is pushing, I tried one, for about a minute. Can we say Fred Flintstone. Worse money I have evr spent on a bicycle.
Flat resistant tires like the budget Forte Gothams and their extra thick tubes are all you need.
Trust me on that one, those of us who live in the desert are the flat tire experts.

Where in Md are you(please fill out the profile). I'm from Bethesda. Oppertive word there is FROM :lol:
Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/20Ah Multistar Lipo rear 5Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, Crazy Bobs run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83430
'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 14S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. 23 MPH.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49691&p=1378484#p1378484

DAND214   1 GW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by DAND214 » Mar 31 2017 11:28pm

If you buy from Ebay. stay away from V-POWER. has been a bad deal. packs over rated and low quality assembled. Second thing would be to ignore the LiFePo4 packs. They are heavier and not as powerful such low Crating. So in turn you need twice the size to get what you need.

Dan

rumme   100 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by rumme » Apr 01 2017 9:00am

motomech wrote:With everyone throwing out all kinds of ideas here, really didn't want to jump in, as I'm sure the OP is confused enough. But I can't let the above post stand w/out a rebuttal.
Don't put a large Frisbee sized DD motor on the frt. forks. Frt. fork installs that don't adversly effect the handling are lite and small, like a geared mini-motor. Less than 3 Kg.s and a system less than 800 Watts.
A 35 mph(you won't get that w/ 20 Amps)frt. wheel mounted on an older MXB bike would be "death on wheels".
And actually, for what I understand the usage for this ebike is to be, I would think a nicer coasting, lighter, faster acelerating geared motor would be better. More stealthy too.
And for the Run Flat tires this guy is pushing, I tried one, for about a minute. Can we say Fred Flintstone. Worse money I have evr spent on a bicycle.
Flat resistant tires like the budget Forte Gothams and their extra thick tubes are all you need.
Trust me on that one, those of us who live in the desert are the flat tire experts.

Where in Md are you(please fill out the profile). I'm from Bethesda. Oppertive word there is FROM :lol:
I used flat free tires for 2 years on my GIANT electric bike. This ebike was used for road driving only, and I miss that setup because flats were never a issue. Keep in mind, this guy asking for advice, is using the ebike for reliable transportation everyday to and from work on flat road surfaces . Flat tires should be 1 of his main concerns, since he doesn't want to be late for work.

I ride my wifes front mounted hub motor a lot, and it is capable of 30 mph on 1000 watt - 48 volt system t...I can control it fine and so can my wife. I find it hard to believe that my wife can control it, and some of you guys have a hard time. :roll:

rumme   100 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by rumme » Apr 01 2017 9:08am

DAND214 wrote:. Second thing would be to ignore the LiFePo4 packs. They are heavier and not as powerful such low Crating. So in turn you need twice the size to get what you need.

Dan

He doesn't need a ebike that is ultralight and can do 50 mph......

He needs a dependable ebike that can transport him 10 miles a day to work and back, on flat road surfaces . Lifepo4 is reliable, safer and perfect for his needs.

rumme   100 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by rumme » Apr 01 2017 9:12am

motomech wrote:And for the Run Flat tires this guy is pushing, I tried one, for about a minute. Can we say Fred Flintstone. Worse money I have evr spent on a bicycle.
:lol:

You tried the flat free tires for 1 minute, on a flat road surface and hated it ?

That's amazing...because on flat road surfaces, my flat free tires were about the same feel as tube tires.

Now, if you tried using flat free tires for use on

gravel roads

dirt trails

riding over logs

etc....then I agree with you...it is a bad choice.

All I can say is this. If I was in the situation as this guy, who need reliable ebike transportation to work and back on on flat road surfaces doing 20- 30 mph top speed...flat free tires would be my only choice. Nothing is more irritating then commutting to work, and getting a flat tire on your ebike...and it WILL HAPPEN . ..unless you have solid flat free tires.

Philaphlous   100 W

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by Philaphlous » Apr 01 2017 9:53am

motomech wrote:With everyone throwing out all kinds of ideas here, really didn't want to jump in, as I'm sure the OP is confused enough. But I can't let the above post stand w/out a rebuttal.
Don't put a large Frisbee sized DD motor on the frt. forks. Frt. fork installs that don't adversly effect the handling are lite and small, like a geared mini-motor. Less than 3 Kg.s and a system less than 800 Watts.
A 35 mph(you won't get that w/ 20 Amps)frt. wheel mounted on an older MXB bike would be "death on wheels".
And actually, for what I understand the usage for this ebike is to be, I would think a nicer coasting, lighter, faster acelerating geared motor would be better. More stealthy too.
And for the Run Flat tires this guy is pushing, I tried one, for about a minute. Can we say Fred Flintstone. Worse money I have evr spent on a bicycle.
Flat resistant tires like the budget Forte Gothams and their extra thick tubes are all you need.
Trust me on that one, those of us who live in the desert are the flat tire experts.

Where in Md are you(please fill out the profile). I'm from Bethesda. Oppertive word there is FROM :lol:
I'm also in Bethesda. Ha who would have guessed. Guess I'm not as stealthy as I think. I believe I'd be taking some of the Bethesda Trolley Trail to work and as I get closer down to Battery Ln. I might either take sidewalks into downtown or that trail that goes upto bethesda row... Never biked it so I dunno yet.

I've looked at some of the geared motors and those might be a good option too. Heck I was considering if I could get maybe a used or cheap hub motor 250-300w front and 250-500w on the back... Those look to be really low profile and could be a great option. I'll just have to keep my eyes pealed for a good deal on ebay.

So I got this "test" dell laptop 9-cell battery. Supposedly its new. The Cells are all the same and have new shrink wrap on them. I've charged them up just to test them. They might make a nice little extra battery pack..probably won't do well as an ebike battery..lol

rumme   100 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by rumme » Apr 01 2017 10:11am

Philaphlous wrote:
motomech wrote:With everyone throwing out all kinds of ideas here, really didn't want to jump in, as I'm sure the OP is confused enough. But I can't let the above post stand w/out a rebuttal.
Don't put a large Frisbee sized DD motor on the frt. forks. Frt. fork installs that don't adversly effect the handling are lite and small, like a geared mini-motor. Less than 3 Kg.s and a system less than 800 Watts.
A 35 mph(you won't get that w/ 20 Amps)frt. wheel mounted on an older MXB bike would be "death on wheels".
And actually, for what I understand the usage for this ebike is to be, I would think a nicer coasting, lighter, faster acelerating geared motor would be better. More stealthy too.
And for the Run Flat tires this guy is pushing, I tried one, for about a minute. Can we say Fred Flintstone. Worse money I have evr spent on a bicycle.
Flat resistant tires like the budget Forte Gothams and their extra thick tubes are all you need.
Trust me on that one, those of us who live in the desert are the flat tire experts.

Where in Md are you(please fill out the profile). I'm from Bethesda. Oppertive word there is FROM :lol:
I'm also in Bethesda. Ha who would have guessed. Guess I'm not as stealthy as I think. I believe I'd be taking some of the Bethesda Trolley Trail to work and as I get closer down to Battery Ln. I might either take sidewalks into downtown or that trail that goes upto bethesda row... Never biked it so I dunno yet.

I've looked at some of the geared motors and those might be a good option too. Heck I was considering if I could get maybe a used or cheap hub motor 250-300w front and 250-500w on the back... Those look to be really low profile and could be a great option. I'll just have to keep my eyes pealed for a good deal on ebay.

So I got this "test" dell laptop 9-cell battery. Supposedly its new. The Cells are all the same and have new shrink wrap on them. I've charged them up just to test them. They might make a nice little extra battery pack..probably won't do well as an ebike battery..lol

Why would you go with a geared motor ? They are specifically designed to have more torque and you already stated you will be driving on flat paved road surfaces ?

Oh well..do as you wish, ill let others offer advice.

Good luck.

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lester12483   10 kW

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by lester12483 » Apr 01 2017 1:15pm

Rear motor, plus the rider, plus the battery pack adds too much weight to the rear tire and spokes. I find it's best to spread out the weight and go with a front hub motor.
MT6 Hybrid- Electric Bicycle 48V
48V 23AH AllCell Lithium Manganese Battery Pack
http://www.chicagoelectricbicycles.com

Philaphlous   100 W

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Re: New Member - Maryland ebiker - Build Advice

Post by Philaphlous » Apr 01 2017 2:07pm

I'm not that heavy... ~160lbs give or take. Add another 10-15lbs for clothes/backpack/anything else I'm wearing and the bike isn't going to have to push amazing loads across town..lol :pancake:

Gotta wait about a month till I get my bike hopefully... depending on its condition, the whole idea may be a go or no go...

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