Conhismotor 1500W 48V Sinewave 26"

markz · Apr 18, 2017

http://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-1500W-26-034-Threaded-Rear-Wheel-Ebike-Conversion-Kit-with-Sine-Wave-Controller-/331976336303?

Seller - Conhismotor which I believe is the same company Hallomotor

11 days to arrive by FedEx - Free Shipping!
Purchased Thursday, April 6, 2017
Arrived yesterday Monday, April 17, 2017 but doorbell wasn't working, in my hands the next day April 18

Key notes:
1) Well packaged with styrofoam, couple dings in transport (2 pictures) with the 3rd picture showing the bottom/top concaved outwards a little bit, but there was foam there.

2) Controller and its wiring was already connected together (Will make notes on wire guage)

I dont plan on opening the motor or controller up. No pedalec for me, pure throttle, which is what that jumper is for I believe.

Going to hook up my battery and go on my Townie 21D

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missing 24 - I cant count
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missing 27, 28 - Unsure

markz · Apr 18, 2017

First Ride
15km until battery hit the LVC of 30V (Which is confirmed by DMM)
Battery is 15S(8S+7S) of A123 ANR26650-M1B in 5P
The sticker on the controller says 36V or 48V // 30V or 40V LVC // 22A rated and 45Amax
Have not hooked up a watt meter..........yet
Pulled ~2100W and went ~40kph for short bursts
Super Silent
Half throttle with the key is stupid with my all-in-one Tourney brake levers/shifters
Throttle seems have a delay, plus the throttle seems to stick.
Did not hook up the PAS, though it was plugged in upon arrive, just disconnected it.

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markz · Apr 18, 2017

Reserved

markz · Apr 18, 2017

Reserved

Darwiner · Apr 19, 2017

cool.

keep us updated

madin88 · Apr 19, 2017

The controllers and sets don't look bad for the price.
do you know how it works to adjust the controller for 36 or 48V batteries?

markz · Apr 19, 2017

madin88 said:
The controllers and sets don't look bad for the price.
do you know how it works to adjust the controller for 36 or 48V batteries?

Edit - It is automatic, it just sensing it somehow. There are no settings within the KT display programming P or C area's. The LVC is only set through KT display progamming and has a few levels, the highest and lowest being +2V and -2V, and about 8 total increments of 0.5V.

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------> https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29469&p=425201&hilit=Conhismotor+lvc#p425201
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18971&p=276686&hilit=Conhismotor+lvc#p276686

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=34816&p=511671&hilit=Conhismotor+lvc#p511671

My controllers include a a ConhisMotor and a HuaTong.

I saw the thread about the controllers cutting out. So far I have only encountered the LVC problem in the past, but I'll keep the thread in mind for future reference once I get the amps up.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=33250&p=483416&hilit=Conhismotor+lvc#p483416

markz · Apr 20, 2017

Well I found out that my battery may be not up to snuff. Lots of voltage sag, but remember I am 330lbs, plus the motor ads even more weight, alum Townie 21D a bit extra.

Read the instructions for the LCD, the default parameters were all correct for me.

Cruise function is annoying, if I leave the throttle in one position for a certain amount of time say 5-8 seconds or so, it will put it on cruise, denoted by the C on the PAS levels area of the display. It would be much much better just to have a switch for it. I did not install my PAS, its not my thing.

docw009 · Apr 21, 2017

In the third parameter set in the LCD-3 settings, [strike]C7 = 0 turns off cruise.[/strike]
1st Edit: Except this is for enabling cruise with the "v" button. Cruise still kicks in after I hold the throttle for 10 seconds.
2nd Edit: Might be a cruise jumper on your controller. I will have to look at mine.

I believe the LCD-3 senses battery voltage when it powers up, and will choose the associated LVC, which is 30V and 40V respectively for 36 and 48 volts. The C12 parameter allows you to adjust LVC by +1.5 volt or -2.0 volt. I didn't think that a battery BMS lets you get down to 30V on a 48V battery. Bad for the cells.

markz · Apr 21, 2017

Thanks for the info.
My battery pack is a DIY, no BMS. I measured my battery and the cells did not get below 2.0V/cell.
There is a jumper that came with the kit. 5 pin connect, 4 pins used, 2 wires looped (blue and yellow)

I am unsure what you mean by C7 and C12

Up/Down arrows are used for the Assist but I did not install PAS, so 5,4,3,2,1,0 are those levels.
Hold down the up arrow turns on the back light.
Press the middle button goes through the different informations available.
Hold down the bottom button gives you a walking beside your bike up a hill assist.

docw009 · Apr 21, 2017

Look at your controller document. The cruise jumper is probably the blue loop.

LCD-3 Programming for the P and C parameters.
https://bmsbattery.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=5

markz · Apr 21, 2017

Thanks for the BMS Battery manual for the KT Display, I didnt realize they were exactly the same.

Getting more juice as we speak.
I added 2S to the 7S+8S /5P and the top speed increased by 10km/h
Did my first guerilla charge, then bought a soda to "pay" for my fuel up.

My battery pack sucks ass because of the voltage sag/^IR, I was going to add yet another series string if the LVC wasnt changeable . But thanks for the manual I will change the LVC to 2.0V/cell, and not dip into my spare cans.

ddk · Apr 21, 2017

oh, and a sticking thumb throttle usually means you've over-tightened the set screw(s) just a tad too much.

markz · May 14, 2017

Here are a few pictures I took, 17x4 is the turn count.

markz · May 15, 2017

Here are some pics of the 1500W Sinewave Controller, glue was put on the front & back of the pcb on the bottom to sandwich the glue between the bottom of the pcb and the alum case about 0.5" wide a razor blade and pliers got them out easily, some extra "washers/heatsink" for the fet bolts (note I have 9 fet bolts so its acting as a clamp for 2 fets) and it looks like the clamp onto the body of the fet [black part], plus the black wire was pinched against the case and I dont see no bare wire. There are 18 FET's.

markz · May 15, 2017

I was pondering how to put the fet clamps back on, and was eye balling the end and could see if either slide out, or popped up. Pop up it is. Saves my frocking ass, I was thinking little china fingers cant be that long. :lol:

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markz · May 19, 2017

The rim is absolute crap, 3 spoke holes have cracks leading out of them at 750km which probably happened at 700km. I see hairline cracks on a couple others along with bulges.

The spokes are 12 guage.

I gotta hit up the used bicycle store now for a used 36h rim then figure out spokes/nipples. I might just go ahead and buy a correct ERD rim then all I'd need is 3 or 4 spokes/nipples.

Edit - Today a spoke broke at the motor flange area where it bends.

markz · May 20, 2017

I do not like the KT Display programming functions at all, its frocking up my throttle up to speed from stop.
And now it seems I messed something else up.

I just wanna sell the frocking thing now, I had my jollies with it for 800km, did 50km today.

markz · May 21, 2017

Rim Story
*Remember 800km and I am 330lbs
So the key is, if you want this kit, buy it without the rim and lace it yourself. It is not as daunting as you may think, just take a look at some YT video's and buy the correct tools.

Lots of cracks, every mark is a crack!
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Oh and BTW a second spoke broke on the motor flange area.

markz · Jun 26, 2017

I've been having a problem where the power would cut out when I am just starting, and very low -to- low speeds, but if I kept the throttle steady it would go into Cruise funtion at 11kph. Then if I babied the throttle I could get it past the problematic throttle area and ride normally. Its definately the throttle thats the issue.

What I cant quite figure out is when I am going on Cruise Control say 25kph up a hill and it slows down, it cuts out. It could very well be a safety feature built into the system.

I am going to do several things this week.
1) Try a few spare throttles I have laying around.
2) Order a throttle from a reputable seller.

This is my first and last foray into China kits. I do like the large KT Display, I've gotten used to the Cruise function where you leave the throttle steady for X-amount of time and it automatically goes on Cruise Control - however with that the cut-off brake levers are an absolute must. I really dont know what the issue was with the stock rim, I should have paid close attention to it, but deep down I wanted to see how long it would last. I laced it into a Ryhno Lite rim.

Its time for me to sell the kit, and move onto something more fulfilling.

dejean · Jul 19, 2017

Hi
I have the same kit (28" wheel version) since end of june 2017, outside the problems I had while shortening the cables it drives as I expected,.. and the LCD is the KT-LCD6 which has exactly the same functions but is vertically positioned.

If you don't want the cruise control, then just take out the looped plug (black and blue wire), with my new controller this loop was not connected and thus the cruise functions didn't worked anymore. After putting it back it "cruises" again. I like this function.

I bought also the triangular 48V/26Ah Li-Ion battery from conhismotor,.. fits perfect in the MTB bike, so far everything goes well (and I hope to continue that way

)

I did not noticed yet some cracks on the wheel but thanks to your advice I'll follow it up very closely.

markz · Jul 23, 2017

I got the motor up top 75 degree Celcius on the KT display. I did not take a feel for the motor though.

Yesterday I fooled around with the C and P settings. Need to find info or inspect motor for # of magnets. Then swap in a new throttle just to see if there is an original throttle issue. My thinking is that the controller itself compares current speed with watts/amps used and if its too much then it will cut out.

Planning another long ride today, have to go up to the other end of town via transit train. Will mess around with the C and P settings again.

markz · Jul 23, 2017

Liking my new 13-14G double butted, but noticed 2 spokes with broken J's.
However I've been doing high speed turns.
Upon quick inspection, one spoke is loose.

Will need to install spare spokes right away, and do another quick true.

striider · Jul 24, 2017

I had issues with the rim that came on my kit also. Had to replace it with one of these: Alex DM24 36 hole - works great....

markz · Jul 24, 2017

striider said:
I had issues with the rim that came on my kit also. Had to replace it with one of these: Alex DM24 36 hole - works great....

Yup cheap China junk, did you have any cracked nipple holes?
You saw the pictures of all of the cracked holes on my stock rim.

Conhismotor 1500W 48V Sinewave 26"

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