matching controller to hub. noob

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Builditgood   10 mW

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Location: Southampton, UK

matching controller to hub. noob

Post by Builditgood » Jun 16 2017 7:05am

Hi, are some controllers better suited to some hubs and if so is it just experience that tells you what is a good match? I'm planning on putting a my edge 3000w with a 14s9p em3ev triangle pack and a ca3 with torque sensing bb. Would be nice to have regen braking but i'm concerned that it is difficult to setup. Kind regards, Alex
Full sus specialized, tangent 3000w, 16ah 12s lipos.
Full sus yeti, cyclone 3000w, 12ah 72v lifepo4.
Folding shopper, 1000w hub in 20" rim.
DMR trailstar, 2000w hub in 17" moto rim, 21ah 50v lion.
DMR sidekick, gng 2015, 16ah 12s lipo.
Full sus giant, 2000w hub in 26" rim, 12ah 50v lifepo4.
Spare Divinci 6000w midrive waiting to be built into something!!

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dogman dan   100 GW

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Re: matching controller to hub. noob

Post by dogman dan » Jun 16 2017 7:18am

To make all that work, with regen, your best bet is going to be a very strong controller from grin, for the voltage you want to run.

After all, you at least have to have, or put on yourself, a CA direct plug in plug, to make that pedal assist work.

For regen, I really preferred to be able to choose when to use it or not. Other agree, put a separate switch on the left handlebar, like a horn button or something to engage regen. With that setup, you can still have e brakes to cut off the motor from PAS, or not, your choice.

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wesnewell   100 GW

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Re: matching controller to hub. noob

Post by wesnewell » Jun 16 2017 8:22am

The controller you choose should be matched to your battery pack, not the motor, so it depends on which 14s9p battery pack you have. You do not want a controller that is capable of drawing more amps than the battery pack can supply. It's that simple. I'd stay with one with 50A max for any of these packs.

Specification for Each Variant of the EM3ev 50V (AKA 52V, 14S9P) Large Triangle Ebike Battery Pack:
Cell Type Capacity (Ah) Capacity (Whrs) Max Cont. Current Max Burst Current Weight

Standard-22P 50.4V 18.9Ah 953Whrs ~38A ~57A 6.4kg
High Energy-33G 50.4V 27.9Ah 1406Whrs ~40A ~56A 6.8kg
High Power-25R 50.4V 22.1Ah 1111Whrs ~40A ~80A 6.4kg
High Power-30Q 50.4V 26.6Ah 1338Whrs ~40A ~80A 6.8kg
High Power-MJ1 50.4V 30.6Ah 1542Whrs ~40A ~61A 6.8kg

I avoid all this by not using weak battery packs to start with. My 10ah 88.8V pack is rated for 200A/300A burst, and cost $218 shipped.
Need Advice? https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =3&t=66302
Mongoose 26" Ledge 2.1 mtb bike $99, yescomusa.com 48V 1000W rear hub kit $200, Hua Tong 72V 40A controller $35, 10ah 24s lipo $217=~43mph, range=45 miles @ 20mph. 25K miles and still going strong.
Huffy Fortress 3.0 with MXUS 3000 4T motor, 24s lipo, 96V 60A controller. Total cost with extras <$700. Top speed ~50mph
My videos https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0KW4U ... _G2wQhptMg

Builditgood   10 mW

10 mW
Posts: 26
Joined: Aug 29 2015 4:36pm
Location: Southampton, UK

Re: matching controller to hub. noob

Post by Builditgood » Jun 16 2017 4:02pm

thank you very much for your input. first off wesnewell it is a spot on call with regards matching the controller to the pack. i'm going for the 30q and a 40a controller to keep it well within limits. but then the question comes, is there a 40a controller that works better with the edge 3kw compared to other 40a controllers? which is where dogman dan comes in with the suggestion of using a grin controller. a good suggestion as we all know grin stuff is good, and will work with the ca, but i'm just wondering if there any other (perhaps better) options. And then dogman dan you mention the switch to turn on the regen - i'm probably out of my depth but how does it work?... you press a button and the regen slows the bike down... you pull an ebrake lever... or you use a thumb throttle on the opposite side to get some sort of variation? merci beaucoup
Full sus specialized, tangent 3000w, 16ah 12s lipos.
Full sus yeti, cyclone 3000w, 12ah 72v lifepo4.
Folding shopper, 1000w hub in 20" rim.
DMR trailstar, 2000w hub in 17" moto rim, 21ah 50v lion.
DMR sidekick, gng 2015, 16ah 12s lipo.
Full sus giant, 2000w hub in 26" rim, 12ah 50v lifepo4.
Spare Divinci 6000w midrive waiting to be built into something!!

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MadRhino   100 GW

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Re: matching controller to hub. noob

Post by MadRhino » Jun 16 2017 7:16pm

Yep, controller to match battery C rate. That is a must. Then, some controllers are working better with some motors, so there is a match that can be done there too. Sinewave controller have the reputation to run more evenly, without cogging. Standard square wave are very good too, more aggressive, thus need to be set perfect for the motor that you are using. Throttles too, are different from one another. Some controller/throttle matches are much better when you feed high power. Adding a CA can let you program throttle response curve, and even transform how it does command the controller speed/current. When you have good brakes, they are doing better than regen. In that case, when you prefer using the rear brake sometimes, and want regen to be independant, you set a regen (momentary switch) button besides your brake lever. Some controllers have a variable regen function, then you may set another throttle on the left for that purpose, or other hall signal switch on the right lever.
Make it fool-proof, and I will make a better fool.
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Trek Session 10 mod. Variable geometry. 70mph
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dogman dan   100 GW

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Re: matching controller to hub. noob

Post by dogman dan » Jun 17 2017 8:52am

Yes,, I should have said that, battery needs to match controller. I did assume you meant to run no more than 40 amps, on that battery. I wouldn't run more. 2000w, which still makes a very fun, almost motorcycle like ride. (Ok, hot moped, but still fun)

Re the regen button, I just assumed you would not grab throttle while pulling a brake lever, or pushing the button for regen. Some people need an e brake, but most folks like that can't find ES.

Normally regen is enabled by connecting your e brake wires, by grabbing the brakes. I hate the usually cheap e brake handles, so I tend to choose another way to kick on regen. I can thumb the button and grab left brake fine, or just grab brake, or just thumb the rear e brake. I like choices.

Other controllers will be fine, they just have to have a CA DP plug on it, or you have to put one on your controller. I just thought the grin 40 amps would be a good choice for the CA and PAS. Justin invented the CA, brought in the PAS capability, so it just makes sense to me to pair all that with his controllers. They do get pricy, but you are wanting the Lexus build here.

Me,, just give me a controller than functions, and a throttle, and I'm happy as a hog in shit.

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