A2B Metro Rearming 3kW Motor + 20700B x 104

Amiran

100 W
Joined
Jun 9, 2017
Messages
101
Hi,
I will try to cover the upgrade process of A2B Metro here.
The old TDMC motor with an internal controller has been put aside and replaced by QS205 3T22 45H magnet motor laced into 16' motorcycle rim + Heidenau 80/80J-16 Road Tyre Tubeless K63(46J).
The battery pack is being built with 13s8p Sanyo 20700b. I plan to use generic 13S BMS only for charging.
The biggest challenge I see so far is to fit the 13s8p pack + 16mm2 negative wire + BMS wires into frame tube, but I am quite positive...
 
Got battery pack in. No BMS.
Will limit the discharge current by 90Ah on the controller. 150A fuse in + line. Should give me enough acceleration and keep batteries cool.
Also will be using wixing left hand thumbr throttle for variable regen.
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miro13car said:
" will limit discharge current by 90Ah...." ??
You mean 90A ???
Yes,
I've got 20' wheel and 3T motor. It loves amps and pays back with decent acceleration.
I had first ride this morning, I was very careful with the throttle.
 
The bike turns out to be silly fast and Kelly KBL would not allow accelerating slowly :D
I try to be as careful as possible.
I am happy I went for higher amps and 48v+3T motor and I hope 13s8p config will minimise the disbalance of cell voltages.
 
You could relace into a 17" moped rim, which is like 20" or 21" bicycle rim size, and 19" moped is 24" bicycle.
More sturdy, more weight, less flat tires.

By going down in wheel diameter you decrease speed, but everything also runs cooler. You are just regearing the motor is all when you do that.
 
Amiran said:
The bike turns out to be silly fast and Kelly KBL would not allow accelerating slowly :D
I try to be as careful as possible...

If you did not mod the A2b Metro geometry, 50 Mph is "silly fast" already and you need to be careful not to flip it upside down on a start. The bike was not designed for performance. It will require mods and upgrades to make a powerful bike that is safe to ride.
 
markz said:
You could relace into a 17" moped rim, which is like 20" or 21" bicycle rim size, and 19" moped is 24" bicycle.
More sturdy, more weight, less flat tires.

By going down in wheel diameter you decrease speed, but everything also runs cooler. You are just regearing the motor is all when you do that.
Done this. I kept front rim as is and rear motor came laced in 16' moto rim. Both tires are Heidenau k smth. This made it good to handle. I also found tilting the steering down/forward improved body weight distribution.

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Hmmm,
Got my first salto mortale. First pair of jeans, shirt and I hope a lesson learned....
I have changed the throttle up/down reaction speedon Kelly Controller and did not think It woud attemt to wheelie on 1/4th throttle when going uphill...
Huh.

Edited@
:p
I was great at landing.
 
Took the battery pack out today.
Voltage reading within 13paralel cell packs- min:4.107 max 4.109
This is after week of use.
Will do this exercise once per month and hope not to regret that I have not installed the bms even for charging.

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Builds coming along well any pictures of the wheel install ?

I'd get an adjustable rear shock you can setup the rear end for your weight then to get a decent non harsh or pitchy ride.
Many look at these like any speed would be crazy but as long as your prep it and ride accordingly as its a cruiser end of the day you'll be golden damn I've done 50mph on a stand up scooter now that's silly very little control covered 13 miles in 18 minutes over mountain roads thing was cooking at the end of the ride proper beastin but that's not for all only trained professional idiots should attempt.
 
Ianhill said:
Builds coming along well any pictures of the wheel install ?

I'd get an adjustable rear shock you can setup the rear end for your weight then to get a decent non harsh or pitchy ride.
Many look at these like any speed would be crazy but as long as your prep it and ride accordingly as its a cruiser end of the day you'll be golden damn I've done 50mph on a stand up scooter now that's silly very little control covered 13 miles in 18 minutes over mountain roads thing was cooking at the end of the ride proper beastin but that's not for all only trained professional idiots should attempt.
Hi,
Here the photos of wheel attached.
Apparently thic is 26*3T NC5000 ~12kV motor and QS V3 H50 40*3T is already ordered to go in but TNT has lost it...
I agree this bike frame has good potential for handing at speeds. I do not feel any flexing or wobble of frame whatsoever, even with the crappy rear shock installed.
Did you find any cheaper ways to get the rear shock for our needs ?

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The stock shock is 150mm with 31mm travel but it would need an elephant to get over 25mm, so I found an air shock that's 165mm and 38mm travel so by the time I dialed in 25% sag the bike sits normal but has adjustabke rebound and compression, the front seems fairly decent with some lube in them.
 
Ianhill said:
The stock shock is 150mm with 31mm travel but it would need an elephant to get over 25mm, so I found an air shock that's 165mm and 38mm travel so by the time I dialed in 25% sag the bike sits normal but has adjustabke rebound and compression, the front seems fairly decent with some lube in them.
What I have read here on forum, we are required to go for 1500lbs spring rate options. Let me know if you find smth suitable and on a budget.
Regarding the front, I agree it is decent quality and would last forever if we avoid jumping. I found most comfortable and stable setting is to undo the pre-tension adjuster all the way out. This helps to avoid transfer of vibration to rear and keeps crappy rear shock happier.
Do you want to try to twist the fork crown around as recommended here ?
 
The shock I've got is 300 psi so I will be suprised if I can bottom that out even with a rear battery rack I only weigh 11 stone wet so fingers crosssed on that one hopefully.
Good battery build by they way, you need to sort a torque arm before you munch the frame don't launch to hard.
 
Ianhill said:
The shock I've got is 300 psi so I will be suprised if I can bottom that out even with a rear battery rack I only weigh 11 stone wet so fingers crosssed on that one hopefully.
Good battery build by they way, you need to sort a torque arm before you munch the frame don't launch to hard.
I've added 10mm2 cable in paralel with 10mm2 copper braid negative lead of bettrey pack last night.
For positive I have 3x6mm2 copper braids in paralel.
Don't want any voltage sagging = cable heating up inside the frame keeping in mind the controller is rated 500A phase and I already have blown 100A fuse with 26*3T motor + new 40*3T QS 50H motor will eat well over 100A.
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Please tell me that's your first pack for yourself not someone else, How much those cells cost you in uk thats a fair couple of quid to be splatting solder on like that you need a big boy iron to flow solder into that gauge of copper bit that type of heat near the top of a cell ain't going to do the electrolyte any favours.
My first battery build was simular but with pants laptop cells you have done it with mint Sanyo cells good on ya lad :)
Luckily your only at 8p and the cells are all new so you shouldn't have to much balancing trouble for at least a year or two but you have shortened the life span no doubt. Loads of threads on here for simple spot welders from caps.
 
Completely agree, this is not clean and nice at all but I would not hold the iron for more than a second on the same cell. (Big iron and low temp solder wire+flux)
I am working lot of after hours and all this is done in little studio bedroom late nights.
I got a good deal on these Sanyos btw from Alibaba.
 
Well , :shock: we should certainly know once and for all if the sugestions regarding soldering on cells hurts them ! :lol:
Also, depending on the age/history of your bike, early Metros had a habit of cracking the swing arm at the "kink" just behind the shock mount. Keep an eye on that area.
 
Hillhater said:
Well , :shock: we should certainly know once and for all if the sugestions regarding soldering on cells hurts them ! :lol:
Also, depending on the age/history of your bike, early Metros had a habit of cracking the swing arm at the "kink" just behind the shock mount. Keep an eye on that area.
Thanks, it is ok so far.


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I like how the tires worked out. Those look great.

Any details on the rear shock, like which model or where you got it? It's hard to find anything in that size with a high enough spring rate to not bottom out.
 
Not sure if you meant mine. I did not find replacement for reasonable price yet, same dodgy coil which came with it :D
 
The controller I am running now and the motor to be coupled with it.
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You sure the frames up to that, the hub looks very powerful like it will tear the swing arm a new one, I'd keep the rear shock with that motor and the controller location, there will be alot of the rear on this one its gonna be a handful.
 
Ianhill said:
You sure the frames up to that, the hub looks very powerful like it will tear the swing arm a new one, I'd keep the rear shock with that motor and the controller location, there will be alot of the rear on this one its gonna be a handful.
+1
you will find the qs will take far more power then your pack can provide, which may tempt you to further jeopardise the safety of the cells :D
id be wanting to make sure i had sme seriously good clamping dropout plates installed at this point..
 
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