So... The parts have been accumulating...
The brake / tail / license light assembly is very bright, but smaller than I imagined. At first I thought it was false advertising but then I measured it. THEN I compared it with the bike and it'll fit either of my two e-bike's luggage racks just fine. Will start on that today.
I also got the turn signals in. The only annoyance is minor: they need an M10 through hole for mounting, but the only other size I could find was only M8, and they were more than double the price and not as great in terms of length, shape, etc. So, FOUR M10 holes coming up!
amberwolf wrote:Make [the DC-DC converter] 14-15v to power the automotive stuff to it's correct brightness. If the other LED stuff isn't tolerant of the higher voltage, you can put a TO220 7812 regulator on it with a small heatsink.
Great advice, except that the only way I could find to easily do that was going to require me to do the packaging, and I can't justify the time versus dollars as the pre-packaged is also cheaper. However, I've tested the lamps that have shown up so far and they're just fine at a nominal 12.
So... I looked at literally hundreds of DC/DC converters and considered price, shipping delay, and most of all features, such as high and low ends of the range, wattage, and protective features. I also did an analysis of my watts needs and did in fact determine that 5A was probably plenty, but as not all the components have been selected yet - the biggie being headlamp(s) - I was concerned there might not be an excess capacity, especially considering the trailer and that I might add extra lighting for great visibility. So, in looking at 10A units, I ended up getting a 25A unit - which surprises even me. One key reason was that just as I was about to buy a 10A unit, I stumbled across this 25A unit and it was only about $1.85 more or thereabouts than the 10A I was just about to buy and it has better rated efficiency. ... In making that decision, I considered possible accessories, and I have an inverter that would let me potentially have mobile AC power for parties around Lake Merritt, for example. Both units had the exact same footprint, same over / under voltage, overheating protections, etc, and, for all practical purposes, identical weight. So, I figured what the heck? The only likely downside is it may have higher "at rest" consumption - neither gave me a rating for that.
This unit is a lot smaller than it might appear in photos!
Amberwolf, your brake lamp answer needs some dissecting!
. It would be REALLY COOL if I could figure out how to use the brake cut-out switches to BOTH continue to use them for cut-out and also to use them for the tail lamp..
A little 12v relay, DPDT. Disconnect ebrake from controller entirely. One wire goes to +12v. One wire goes to one end of relay coil. Other end of relay coil goes to ground. Now ebrake engages relay.
Controller's ebrake signal wire goes to Common on one side of relay. Ground goes to that side's NO connection.
Brakelight signal goes to Common on other side of relay. If brakelight is common +V with tail, then ground goes to NO connection of that side of relay. If brakelight is common ground with tail, then +V goes to NO connection of that side of relay.
...First, I take it that "NO" stands for "normally open". If not, I'm lost about that.
Second, "Common" is, in my use of it in DC electric circuits, the same thing as "ground" and in AC circuits it's a synonym for "neutral." ...So, you lost me on that one again since you talk about some connections going to ground and others going to common.
Third, if I read you right, you make a HUGE presumption; that the TSDZ2's brake cut-out system will take 12v. I have good reason to believe the control system for the TSDZ2 works on 6v, but it's only an inference. I DO HAVE a possible source of 6v from the TSDZ2 system itself, but it'll be a pain to run it there, but I could do it.
Fourth, I have TWO brake cut-out switches, and I don't yet know if they're normally open or normally closed and which position they're in when braking, but I can figure that out. ...I'll need to create a logical OR circuit. I have done this before in my distant past - but it's been a while. However, I can PROBABLY work out how to do this where the "or" result is either "high" (+v) or "low" (0v). ... Again, packaging will be an important factor. Plus, I have to return the signal(s) back to the TSDZ2 for that part to function properly.
Just a suggestion; can you draw out your suggestion as a "wiring diagram", snap a photo of it and post it? It would be a lot more clear to me!
As for fuses, my battery pack has a 50A fuse inside the pack. I don't expect to use even half that, so I've decided on a 4 fuse box I have on hand. It has two of the fuses joined on one end; I'll run the battery pack to that. The propulsion system will get a 25A fuse right there, and the DC/DC converter will get a second 25A fuse from the second lead at that point. The 12v from the DC/DC system will then feed both of the two independent fuses, one will do the "running lights" and the other will do all the other "accessories." This, because I see the running lights as the most important accessory.
I have several fuse boxes just like the one here, but I think that maybe ONE of them has a removable cover! If so, I'll be using it! (I have more of the screws - I do note that two are missing in the photo.)
The suggestion to use a computer keyboard cable is a reasonable one - IF, that is, I have any old keyboards I care to scrap, as I've already scrapped MOST of that older AT style equipment, oh, some 10+ years ago now! However, I was looking at the younger stuff and think it may well be up for the task, especially since I'm planning on running all LED lighting, so very little current. And, I already have it on hand!
Oh, and I've decided to add a "cigarette lighter", so that it'll be super easy to plug in that inverter I spoke of, or any other such accessory. And, the one I picked has an insert to provide two USB chargers, too.
It's coming together!